Numbchux

'83 would be an EA81. Fairly different design (good thing though). the Ea81 doesn't have timing belts. it's pushrod, OHV, with a single gear-driven cam in the center. Much simpler, which makes it typically more reliable. It is definitely possible to swap the intake manifold and sensors over from your EA82 to have a Fuel-injected EA81 in your loyale. General_Disorder did an EXCELLENT write-up about putting Ea82 SPFI control system into an EA81 car. it can be found here: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/EA81_SPFI.html Now, keep in mind, the vast majority of that writeup talks about putting the ECU and wiring from an EA82 into an EA81 body car, which is not applicable in your case. You pretty much just need to check out the sections on the intake manifold and distributor modifications, which aren't too difficult.

that was with a 5-lug swap. the connection between the strut and a 4-lug EA knuckle is the biggest challenge, and he had EJ knuckles. COMPLETELY different.

define: "older 1.8l carbureted" You mean, early EA82? or EA81? both are possible, but a fairly different project.

if EA81 rod ends are too short, grab some for an XT6 or EJ. Same thread pitch and taper, just longer. I used them for a bit on my Ea82, but even with the tie rod bottomed out in the rod end, I had positive toe..... Miles, 2000 saw the change to multilink rear suspension in the legacy, and 2008 for the impreza, but the stock shocks are similar at best to EA82s. The Tein coilover kits that are almost a bolt-on installation on an Ea82 are valved for an '05+. Also, for inner seal part #s to mix and match EJ/ER knuckles/axles: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=836218&postcount=20 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=840456&postcount=23

'95 is OBD II for the 2.2s. I have no idea why....but it's definitely true.

an EA81 uses a plain-jane shock absorber in the rear. measure the length, and order up your preference. We used some Rough Country units in a 4" lifted brat a couple years ago. DRASTICALLY improved travel.....but pretty low-end shocks if you plan to have any speed over the rough stuff. You'd be better off with some Foxs or Bilsteins. the front is where you run into a challenge. KYB is probably your best option (only due to an entire lack of competition) there for 100% interchangeable strut assemblies. You might be able to find some Koni or similar inserts that would work with the stock housings.

Agreed! But TP leaving doesn't change that. In fact, quite to the contrary...with Pastrana, Block, and L'estage officially not competing next year, there's a real chance that someone "new" is going to win it. That was a big reason why we were trying to make a push for nationals.....although we weren't able to come up with enough sponsor dollars to make it happen. maybe next year. Maybe a Super Production car? Also, I don't know anything about him, but it seems that David Higgins (SRTUSAs second driver for next year) has the credentials to do very well. Not to mention the 2WDs. Dillon van Way and Chris Duplessis both have new cars. Chris Greenhouse is always a hoot to watch in that poor old Neon. And I'm anxious to see who (if anyone ) tries to compete in the Fiesta cup. Unfortunately, I'm sure the loss of those big names will lead to the loss of a lot of spectators, which makes these events financially even more difficult. We don't need Pastrana to have fun in the woods.

speedometer is mechanical, and was for much of the '90s. So no, the VSS wasn't for the gauge. You'll probably have issues if it's an OBD II ECU if you don't have a VSS. some EA81s (don't ask me which ones....I don't know...) already have the VSS in the cluster though, just a matter of hooking up the signal wire.

EA81 rod ends work just fine. and are shorter than the EJ/ER stuff so you can get your alignment correct.

?? only in the front, and only if you've got a 5-lug swap. AFAIK, Noah is the only person who's done it, and he had issues.

Doesn't sound like a mechanical thing. More like a misfire under load. Could be caused by a lot of things, but an ignition problem would be most likely. start by checking the ignition timing. Then inspect and replace as necessary: plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

stock turbo compression, and stock boost on an EA82t does not require high octane. The biggest factor is ignition timing. Higher octane fuel burns slower. so if you're tuned for 87, and run 91, it'll burn later, which can be a problem (and vice versa). So no, do not just run the "best" available. Use what it's designed to use. As far as I know, stock timing is designed for low octane, but I'm not 100% sure. The FSM has separate specifications for all engine types that year (SPFI, MPFI, MPFI Turbo), but only one section for fuel, where it says 87.

Really? This was COMPLETELY predictable. I mean seriously, he gave up the National Championship last year to go to Australia with the Nitro Circus crew. Pastrana wasn't getting much competition here in the US. Really, there was a point last year where his speed factor was like 104, which theoretically isn't even possible. He is not a die-hard rally guy, he's a motorsports guy. And his life is sponsored by Red Bull. Let's assume he's not going to leave them, so what's the next step? WRC? Red-bull already has Sebastian Loeb. Dakar? Carlos Sainz. And Subaru isn't in WRC at all....so he'd have to completely change teams, only to play backup to a much more famous (and possibly better...) driver. The NASCAR redbull teams are not doing that great. Pastrana has said he's dreamed of driving for NASCAR his whole life. Also, driving for NASCAR is a totally different thing than watching a bit on TV. it may only be left turns, but at 200mph.....yea. I even have a greater respect for it just playing a bit on GT5. I was kind of expecting him to do some Monster Jam racing. But apparently his dabbling in that over the last couple years didn't spark his interest.

yes, the angle of the control arms will create a problem with alignment. But, the CV angle, will make for very quick axle destruction. Anything beyond 2" is a recipe for problems there.

yes, whatever height blocks you have on the front xmember will need to be installed in the rear xmember.

the rpm thing doesn't really make sense. but Subaru Speedo's tend to read high....so that might be it. if you didn't have to swap axles, it's definitely a turbo transmission. And the only combination of turbo, PT4WD, and D/R was the '85-'86 RX. So yea, it's a 3.7. Also, that means it's a 1.19:1 low range and not the 1.59 of the non-turbo cars.

It's a project, but even then, I think my first one only took a couple hours. The last time I swapped transmission internals (way more than just diff stubs), it was only like 45 minutes. some pictures. My thread, talks more about mixing and matching internals. But a few pictures of the transmission apart: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106668 and The Beast I Drive started making a hybrid trans awhile ago. I don't know if anything ever came of it, but he's got some great pictures of the teardown. The tailhousings will be different, but the XT6 one (FT4WD, single range) will be closest to the EJ design. You can't see it in any of the pictures, but on the shifter rod inside the tailhousing, there's a 10mm set-bolt that has to be removed first. Otherwise you'll have a hell of a time getting it all apart. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=106140

well, using a gear calculator. A 3.7 (turbo, .871 5th gear) trans with 24.65" tires would be turning about 3100 rpm at 70, whereas the 3.9 (non-turbo, .780 5th) would be turning 2900. But, if you're binding with a 3.9 diff, and not a 3.7, than I'd say you got a 3.7 trans. And if it's a PT4WD D/R. Than it's an '85-'86 RX trans. How did the axles work out for you? Your turbo wagon would have already had 25-spline axles, and if your donor trans had been a 3.9, it would require 23-spline axles.

yep, it's been released for awhile. And they've announced his replacement (whose name I don't know.....but he's got the credentials....)

Yea, you'd have to convert to a longitudinal engine configuration. Which I HIGHLY doubt there's enough room in a fiero engine bay to do. Keeping it mid engined, would mean the entire engine would be in front of the rear axle, which would mean you'd be cutting into the cockpit/seats I bet. Not practical. or....convert it to rear-engined And even if you were successful at either of those options....you've still got fiero suspension and electronics. bleh. There are dozens of V6 and V8 options that work great in the fiero. Just stick with that, or get a 914 for you mid-engined Subaru option (My uncle has a '74 that I've been trying to get him to sell to me......one of these days....).

Gary is close. you don't have to actually swap the front diff, but you have to get to it. the stubs are held in with a snapring on the inside of the diff. AFAIK (I've never taken apart a 23-spline transmission, so I'm not 100% sure), the splines on the diff-side of the stub are the same, so once you get it all apart, they should be a direct swap. Taking apart the transmission isn't toooo bad. But it's not easy. You have to pull the center diff housing off (don't forget to pull the access panel so you can remove the set-bolt from the shifter so you can get enough play in it to get everything loose). And then all the bolts to seperate the transmission case. there are a few sources for the XT6 FSM online, they have some diagrams about how it all goes together, as well as torque specs/sequence for re-assembly. Let's just say, I'm VERY glad that the first transmission I pulled apart was junk already....

I thought GSP sounded familiar. Like someone had just posted a rant about them being junk. so I searched....yep. It was you. You know they're bad. you were told they were bad. now you've posted a second thread about it hinting that it might be the bearings, and when we gave you other ideas, you are sure it's the axle. Get a decent axle!! thread I was referring to, for those that don't know: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118721

no, no spacers. this picture pretty much tells all: fender lip is rolled. plenty of clearance. I had ~400lb/in springs on it then, so there was very little travel. Shortly after that, I switched to the G-C setup (275 lb/in in the rear), and the static ride height went up about a 1/2" to give some extra room for travel.

I have used Redline synth, Amsoil synth, "Scotty's Cocktail", Valvoline w/Rislone, Castrol HypoyC w/rislone, Straight HypoyC. Extra-S blows them all out of the water. I'll never use anything else in any Subaru MT.

axles will be just fine. driveshaft will have to be modified (shortened?) IMHO, with an EA82 flywheel/transmission, and an EJ22 in front of it. Best bang for the buck clutch option is a Beck/Arnley clutch kit for an XT6/EA82t (#0619130). I've bought and run 3 of these over the years (2 with EJ swaps, one in an XT6), and am very impressed with the quality, and price (RockAuto has 'em for less than $200).