Numbchux

Cut the hole in the tunnel for the tcase shifter and got it bolted on. Also bolted the blockoff plate down in the adapter for the tcase shifter (the AA adapter has provision for forward-shift linkage). Got the remote oil filter assembly bolted to the inner fender, and the lines clamped back down on the motor side. Have to order the adapters so I can have decent hose barbs for a universal oil cooler. The Toyota shifter had PRND21, and a button for 3rd (O/D lockout). But the 700R4 has PRND321, so I needed to add another notch, as I'll probably want to select 1st for wheeling. A few minutes with the dremel (didn't have a small enough grinding bit, so I did it with a cutoff wheel.....it'll do) and I added another notch, and clearanced the base so the shifter can travel a bit further: I'll have to modify the plastic surround a bit to match, and I might cut off the bracketry for the old tcase linkage. I'm also going to cut a piece of plastic to block off where the old tcase shifter was, and mount some switches there. Next is lengthening the shifter on the other end (the pivot is closer to the passenger side of the truck, so when modified to reach to the other side of the trans, it'll have to be lengthened). And then taking a bunch of measurements to see just how long it should stick down so it travels just the right distance for each gear.

3rd wire on the old ones is a shield wire. You'll find only 2 wires go to the sensor, even on OBD 1 cars

I've done the Jeep SYE mod with it in gear. that's with just the output shaft spinning. You're talking about the entire drivetrain spinning (actually, you'll probably have to leave one rear wheel on the ground, otherwise the rear diff wouldn't let the one you're working on spin). It could be done, but it is quite ghetto, and still a fairly bad idea. Also, drilling 4 holes and putting lug studs in them is not even slightly comparable in ghetto-ness than what you're proposing. Drilling 4 holes, somehow putting studs/bolts in them without having anything protrude into the WMS, and cutting the whole thing down. All of this could properly be done with a good machine shop, but you're not talking about doing it right.

Yep. Mudrat did it years ago with his hatch for the Rubicon trip. Nissan tcase behind an EJ 4EAT. Transfer clutches had to be welded up, simply cutting power to the DutyC was not enough to make the car driveable. This would be true of any EJ trans, the VLSD center diff in the MTs would not be strong enough. They'd have to be welded, or replaced with a RWD conversion sleeve. But that would pretty much be the only challenge unique to an EJ.

It would be a project, but it might be possible. The bolt heads would have to be countersunk into the hub surface so they wouldn't interfere with the wheel. I have to be honest, though. the idea of cutting the drum while on the car sounds like an excellent way to break something (either on the car, or you). I wouldn't do it unless properly machined, and honestly, 4-lug rear disc setups are not NEARLY rare enough to justify either method.

If the cooling system is in good repair, just pull it off. Only Ea82s with A/C came with a clutch fan, so it's only necessary in the hardest situations. The A/C never worked in my Ea82s, so I pulled it all off, and the fan, and almost never had problems. you won't notice any power unless the clutch was failed, but you might gain a bit of mileage depending on your driving style. And you'll make your car a lot easier to work on.

Yea...."need"? maybe not. but it's a good idea. New rings really need a fresh hone to break in properly. I've gotten away with used rings and no hone (a friend of mine is currently running used pistons/rings in an EJ205, has been for a year and a half, without issues). Our rally car build is using a brand-new OEM EJ257, so we didn't re-hone it for the new pistons. I've never done a hone on an assembled shortblock though. I'd be worried about metal shavings in the bearings. I suppose a good wash would be alright.

As a matter of fact, the pistons pretty much have to come out before the case is split, so yea, they can be swapped. That's what we've done for both motors in our rally car. stock EJ257 bottom end, drop in aftermarket pistons to raise the compression, done. Doesn't even take very long. And yea....legos......awesome. It's pretty amazing how interchangeable these parts really are.

They're pretty similar. the difference in gear location is mostly made up by the location of the mounting surface on the bellhousing. I've never had them side-by-side. But I've never been able to tell the difference AT v MT. from rockauto AT: MT:

XT6s are 5-lug, and have a very different rotor design. Something definitely isn't right, but we're just shooting in the dark....can you get some pictures of what you've got? then we might be able to tell if you've got the wrong parts, or maybe have them together wrong...

I would guess an issue with the sensors as well. They are pretty well sealed, but being submerged would be quite the test for them and the wiring going to them.

yep, me too.

get a water pump for a turbo EJ car. the tstat housing is on the front of the pump, instead of the bottom, for that very reason.

switch on top of the steering column

That has a lot to do with the EA82 suspension, alignment (mostly the camber) and skinny tires. as a FWD EJ has a TON more traction. This spring, my old FrankenWagon will be getting re-5-lug swapped, but is still PT4WD. So we'll see if dialing back the camber helps.

I owned an EJ D/R transmission here in the US for a couple years. But it used a standard EJ VLSD center diff (AWD). Not locking Full-Time 4WD, or selectable Part-Time 4WD.

I think this is definitely true. You could get dual-ranges at least up until the last few years. But once they started the EJ platform, they're all AWD. There was one guy in New Zealand claiming he had some EJ D/R FT4WD transmissions with a center diff lock, but he couldn't/wouldn't back up that information. Either way, there was no selectable FWD option. From a performance standpoint, AWD is much better in pretty much every way. The Viscous coupler in the center diff is very strong, so at slow speed offroad, it does not slip very much. But it does allow enough slip to be used on the pavement. And a little bit of slip helps the front tires bite on corner entry which combats understeer. Center diffs are fairly strange. In a performance situation, stronger is better, but actually mechanically locked is much worse. Really the only aspect of the car that would benefit from selectable FWD/4WD is fuel economy, and it's pretty obviously from the size and weight of subarus over the last 20 years, that fuel economy is not high on the list.

Things I learned this last weekend at 100 Acre Wood rally: STi axle ratios did change for 2006. So a Subaru 3.9 r180 donor would have to come from pre 2005. The 3.9 r180 in our rally car will need a rebuild before our next event. I may be able to get some measurements of the ring gear for you.

email replied

Don't need to drill them all the way through to the trunk. When I did it on my loyale I just tapped threads into the frame rails. That was about 5 years and 100k miles ago. I never got the driveshaft carrier mounts right. I eventually had an EA81 1-piece driveshaft lengthened and used that. Yea, I absolutely hated the 3AT FWD in my loyale. While the 4WD swap added a good deal of work to the swap, I would still do it again. But you could certainly get a FWD 5MT and swap that in. The car would be much more driveable, especially on the freeway.

Yep, assuming it's an Ea82 (and yep, '87 doesn't mean it is), it will fit. It will require a different lower radiator hose as the output comes out a different angle. But that's easy. If you're car is an automatic, you will need a rad for an auto. if yours is a manual, either will work fine.

agreed that WD is not what you need. Liquid wrench would be a bit better, PB blaster would be great, SeaFoam Deep Creep would be ideal.

the 3AT gearing sucks for the highway, regardless of what's in front of it. Nothing wrong with going for mileage, but a FWD 5MT is the way to do it. Especially one with non-turbo gearing. Actually, a part-time 4WD transmission won't sacrifice much in mileage when in FWD. So don't put that out of your mind. Also, time for my obligatory plea against the RX trans (3.7 D/R FT4WD). It's a terrible match for the EJ22 in almost any condition. I ran that combo for a few years, and it was definitely not worth it. So many other options that are much more common and much better in so many ways.

Classy. I approve

So jumpering the solenoid to 12V works out of the car, but not in? Has to be one of the other 2 connections then. Either an insufficient ground between the block and the battery, or the large cable running from the + battery terminal to the solenoid. If you have a voltage meter, test your voltage at the battery. Now move the + probe to the starter, and then switch them (+ back on the battery, - to the block, preferably near the starter). If the voltage drops with either of these configurations, there's your problem. Otherwise, trial and error. Check your connections at the battery. inspect the + cable going to the starter. There should be a ground cable going from a bracket on the upper starter bolt, straight to the - battery terminal. make sure this one is present and connected securely.