Numbchux

The ECU will depend on the wiring harness you're using. And you will need the whole bulkhead harness for the swap. If you don't have a bulkhead harness, I would highly recommend getting a harness and ECU out of a USDM WRX. Better wiring diagrams, better support, and Open source tuneability.

More info: http://rally-america.com/news/936/ And a great tribute video RIP, Matt Marker

Tragedy on the stages at Olympus: http://rally-america.com/news/934/

worked great on the 4" setups I've done. Honestly, I don't see the need for anything beyond that unless you're doing a subframe, divorced tcase etc.

The rear wheel being pulled forward like that is because the crossmember was left up against the body (the correct way to do it, IMHO). It looks a little goofy, but because the suspension pivot point is right at the body, it can't get any closer there.

... RX trans has 25 spline, so you won't have an issue there. Just match them to the outer knuckles, and you're set. Legacy = EJ. Yes. going to have to give more info on the trans. They'll probably be pretty similar, but depending on year and motor will have different ratios and clutch types. Work? yes. work well? probably not. As mentioned, the struts are taller in an outback.

technically: G = Impreza C = first gen ('93-'01 for the impreza) sedan 8 = 2.0l turbo But GC or GC8 is commonly used to refer to any first-gen impreza. BUT, any EJ front setup will work with a 5-lug swap. And the EJ stuff is much better. better strut options, MUCH better brake options, the tie-rod tabs on the knuckles are in a slightly different spot, so the tie rods are shorter, which helps prevent bump-steer. But yes, the XT6 stuff will work. It will (assuming it's AWD....) have air-suspension, which won't be useful to you. but the knuckles and brakes will work (and allow you to keep the front ebrake).

Venting to atmosphere won't hurt anything. It just wastes fuel (although....sometimes that's burned off in the form of fireballs out the exhaust between gears). Yea, sounds like the PO did a halfassed return to stock. there are a lot of vacuum/vent lines in the stock config, but they all have their place. It shouldn't look too crazy. A lot of these things are for the emissions system, and will not hurt how the car runs to remove, but it's not for the novice mechanic, you need to know exactly what everything does.

the clutch issue might not be as much of an issue as you think. there's a company here in Duluth (not a big town.....so I suspect you could find one close to you) that does custom clutches, and they're not any more expensive than comparable off-the-shelf options. I'm sure a disc with different splines wouldn't be difficult at all. here's the shop I'm referring to: http://www.lakeheadclutch.com/index.htm

wow, nice. wish I knew someone up here that could do that quality rust repair. I'm going to have a very similar project on a brat this summer

Obviously we have no idea wtf you're talking about. and, since the is not a thing ('08-10 STI were only avail as a hatch), you need to spend some time with google image search and show us.

I don't know much about it. but I do know that one of the guys in our club had one for years, almost exactly like that. He regeard, locked the rear, did a SOA, and put some 33" swampers, and wheeled it quite a bit. I got to drive it a bit once on the trail, seemed to do very well.

he's talking about lengthening the radius (leading) rod, not the control arm. Lengthening the radius rod pushes the bottoms forward (caster), not out. I put small (1/2"?) spacers behind the forward bushing on the rod to push things forward on a couple cars at stock ride height. There's also a company that makes adjustable ones, they can be found from many sources (I know I've seen them on rockauto).

I bet this never happens If you are serious. There are literally thousands of combinations that would fit the very limited criteria that you have laid out. You have a TON of research to do. You obviously have a very limited understanding of this project, which usually leads to wasted money and/or a wasted project.

It doesn't sound at all like the tstat isn't working. i would agree that it isn't open, but if the car isn't overheating, I'm betting the short drive was short enough that it hasn't needed to open yet. The system should pressurize. Your description of the hoses and such sound 100% normal. The cap should not leak, however. Replace it. If that doesn't solve it, the flange might be damaged, as Miles said.

4 speed? '85 '86 4-speed would be an EA81. All EA82 manuals are 5-speeds, and the 4EAT didn't start until '87.5. The outer splines are the same for all EA82s. The inners are all 23 spline except turbos which are 25.

You'll want the highest backspacing you can get your hands on. You probably don't want to go over 4" backspacing, but that probably won't be an option with a 14" wheel.

Yea, PBR will do that

Be glad it happened on a corner with a disc brake..... I had almost the exact same thing happen on the rear of my '85. Except the drum (and therefore the wheel) came off about 100 ft after the nut. Then, when the wheel passed me, I hit the brakes.....which proceeded to over-extend the wheel cylinder, and send springs and levers and shoes all over the road. Then I realized I didn't have a jack. Luckily I was only about 10 miles from home, so my dad came with a floor jack and helped me piece it all back together.

The housing was there. But someone had pulled the hi-pinion elocker 3rd out of it, and in the process left the remains of the knuckles scattered all over the place. Got the front tires on last night. Going to have to trim a bit, but it'll work. As of this morning, the driveshafts are in. The front shaft that was on the truck had a couple of pretty large balancing weights on it. Well, I got the shaft almost all the way in, and realized they were going to hit the tranny pan. Luckily I saved the front shaft from the '86 I parted out a couple years ago. It had one little weight, which does clear. Just another issue since I'm not doing a 4" bracket lift, like they recommend.

Picked up some tires today.... going back for the other 2 tomorrow on the truck: Almost brand-new 35x12.5r15 Cooper Discoverer STTs, and wheels, $650.

Outback wheels do not have different offset than non-outback wheels of the same dimensions (15x6.5, I think). It seems to be very hit or miss how peoples axles respond to this mod. I've heard a few stories where the axles just weren't happy, no matter what (new axles, alignment, etc.). I would have though if any car was going to have a problem, my dad's rusty old '94 would have, but that thing went all over the country for years with the BG suspension under it.

lower radiator hose is not interchangeable between an EA82 GL and EA82 Loyale. The Loyale one can be trimmed to work, but is not correct. If someone at Napa or Autozone (I don't know anything about baxter's) told you they don't have model-specific rad hoses, they should loose their job, as they're just lying because they don't feel like looking it up.

good grief. Dealer for a radiator hose? Only if you don't like your money Just go to your local parts store. They'll be able to get a molded hose that will fit perfect. If you'd prefer online, Rockauto.com is the place to go.

Yea, I wonder if anyone's every done that before