Numbchux

which means the pinion bearings will no longer be submerged in gear oil......not good. You could probably make some sort of slinger to attach to the ring gear and sling oil up onto the pinion, but it might not work. It might work, but hang on.....having a rear diff seize on the highway is not a fun experience

it was pre-lift too. Factory alignment specs are positive camber in the front. also, camber is not adjustable. EA-series understeer is mostly caused by geometry of the rear end. It actually flexes very well, and in a corner, the front travels less than the rear, and therefore the front gets less grip. really, the only way to combat it, is adding a rear sway bar, which reduces the rear travel, and neutralizes the grip front to rear.

that bar is only there to support the spare tire. Ditch it an EA82 engine bay is plenty wide enough for any EJ engine, including phase II SOHC, and DOHC.

Cool. Every time I look at a subaru engine bay, and start thinking about RWD, the first thing I'd do is move the engine/trans back quite a bit. But yours is definitely moved back quite a bit compared to the front wheels than in a subaru. I think that's right where I'd put it. That's a very interesting take on the rules. So would you be able to gather regional points too? Although I bet even then there's a bunch of competition in G2. My buddy is currently tied for 3rd in the Open Light central championships, even though he only finished one event before putting the turbo back on Anyway, best of luck. Any chance you'll be racing next year? There's a good chance I'll be at Olympus and Oregon Trail next year....it'd be sweet to see it in the woods!

How's your firewall clearance? hard to tell in the picture, but it looks like the whole assembly could be moved back, which would be better for weight distribution... I've also been thinking. I know you said you were planning on using this for rally. Just rallyX? I'm pretty sure Rally-America doesn't allow running an engine from a different manufacturer than the car (transmission is fine, though).

yep, I used a piece like this when I put a standard EA82 radiator in my XT6 last year. worked perfectly. Radiator hose doesn't have to hold up to much pressure, so it doesn't really need to be barbed.

That's a good write-up. But am I reading that correctly? he's installing resistors to mimic the resistance of the solenoid so the TCU doesn't know it's not connected? Andyjo documented years ago that you can just run the wire through a switch. The only time the TCU verifies functionality of the solenoid is on startup. And if you leave it disconnected at startup, all it does is make the "AT oil temp" light flash. Much easier method: 1. find wire 2. cut and extend ends to where you want your switch 3. install switch

MASSIVE. There was a thread fairly recently where a guy in england put EJ suspension in the back of his Brat. Making strut towers from scratch.....not fun. And has to be EXTREMELY precise. First gen legacy ('90-'94) rear ends use male stubs on the diff that is exactly interchangeable with EA82/XT6 rear axles. Done and done. Other options include EJ inner axle cups on EA82 shafts, or swapping an EA82 diff carrier into your EJ housing/gears, that way you have the EA82 stubs. For the search feature, add an * to the end of your search term as a wild card. That will allow shorter words. Also, there's a pretty good start (written many many years ago) in the suspension section of the USRM.

That's how the EA82 ones are wired. Power side just switched with the ignition, and the ground through the thermoswitch

So one power source is split into 3 fuses? That's pretty common. There are a number of ways you could reproduce that with aftermarket stuff. Use a few different boxes with different sources (switched, unswitched, etc.). Or, get a box where the fuses are all separated internally, and connect them externally how you want to. Either way. Nothing wrong with re-using the old one.

I think you're on the right track. I suspect those 2 wires have similar uses. Just a matter of tracking it down. I really have so little experience with older subarus, my '84 brat is definitely the oldest subaru I've worked on. I guess it's a pretty good assumption it's designed to have some sort of light in it. More accurate question would be whether it's switched with the lights (separate power source/separate wire), or on all the time (shared wire). The signal wire would definitely be the one from the MSD. Power source doesn't matter too much. Needs to be switched with the ignition, and fused. I don't know what you're using for a fuse box, but I'd probably use one fuse for all your instrumentation.

alright, neither of these are quite enough information without knowing the car very well. Do either of these systems match the diagrams you posted? One of those wires is a 12v reference for the regulator. my guess is the one going to the gauges is that one (charge light?). Black/White might just be a ground. no idea about the new one without some diagrams. Does the tach have a back light? It likely has a power source, ground, and signal wire (and possibly a back light, in which case it's likely grounded through the bracket). If you can pull the gauge apart and see the circuitry, you might be able to identify the wires.

the shifter setup changes depending on numerous options, including if the truck had a bench seat or buckets. Just look at it. "top shift" and "forward shift" are pretty self explanatory. Or, throw either phrase into google, and you'll find lots of explanation and pictures.

did you research it at all? Toyota transfer case configurations are about as common a discussion as you can find. here's a good start http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/shifter-parts/twin-stick-kit

Please don't. The toyota tcase already hangs down like a sum***************. Even with a centered front-diff, it's nothing a good u-joint can't handle. Good chance I'll buy one if you do a version with the pivot for the cable clutch.

This thing? The contact in the plastic is somewhat corroded, but I wouldn't have guessed it as a problem with a visual inspection. That said, with the ignition on, my volt meter reads just over 12 at the battery, and barely 6 at the fusible links. So I pulled out this wire and will re-do it before I go back out next week. So, thanks GD for the tip. I'll fix it up just like you suggested, hopefully that solves my problem.

So, just got back from the shop (was working on the rally car some too). Wasn't the steering rack. When we did the lift, we made strut extensions that fit between the strut and knuckle, so the strut as still at stock height. So, since the struts were never removed from the car, we didn't think to pound that little bump on the strut tower. Well, 3" blocks on the crossmember, and 4 1/4" at the strut....pulls the strut in enough that the spring rubs on the tower. got out the hammer.....and it's fixed!

fair enough. car-part doesn't really show many nearby, except the yard here in town, who I absolutely HATE. I know when I drove this thing right after we got the new gas tank in it ~5 years ago, it didn't have this issue. And it probably has less than 50 miles on it since then, and a few of those would be in a swamp. So I wouldn't be a bit surprised if things got flushed out. I'm going to stuff some lube in there, and hopefully that helps enough that I can wheel it a few times this year. Then I'll just plan on replacing the rack when I do the EJ swap.

nothing wrong with it as a brand....but it worries me that rockauto lists that part number for EA81 and EA82 models. Get the dimensions (specifically the tooth count on the disc).

I think I remember seeing that you could use a nissan throwout bearing so you could use an EA82 pressure plate in front of an EA81 tranny. But, the EA81 transmission only has 21 splines, whereas the EA82 has 23. So the disc will be different, at the very least. If you want this to last, I HIGHLY recommend the Beck/Arnley kit. I've put 3 in 3 different cars (2 of them EJ22 swapped, 3rd was my '88 XT6), and they're very high quality. The one in my loyale has about 50k on it now, and is still going strong. but it sounds like you're looking for cheap and somewhat temporary.....that oreilly one sounds like a decent option. There are a few on rockauto, but the cheapest one that I would use is 130+shipping (2 are FWD, with the 7 7/8" disc. and the sachs one says it's the same part number for EA81 and EA82.....hmmmm).

I've got some nasty binding in the steering rack of the brat. I originally figured that it was a shot u-joint....so I pulled the shaft out, and the joints were fine. So, I decided to move the rack through it's range of motion....and wow. Something is NOT right. It is very difficult to get the steering to move. Can this be lubricated? I was thinking of just pulling back the tie rod bellows and stuffing a bunch of grease back in there. I really hope I can do it with the rack in the car, as I'm pretty sure that the exhaust studs will not be reusable.

Side effect of having my brat stored where it is. 25 mile one-way trip out there, so whatever tools/parts I have with me are pretty much all I have. I would very much like to have a plan of attack before I go out there again on Thursday. The battery in my brat isn't in the greatest shape. I knew this, and since it hasn't really been run for more than a couple minutes since I bought it. So I let it idle for a couple hours while I was working on the front suspension today. I was frequently checking the gauges, temp and voltage both looked excellent. Until, the voltage looked a little low. I hopped in, and gently brought the rpms up a bit, and the voltage fluctuated quite a bit. This seemed odd to me, so I turned the car off. When I turned the ignition back on, nothing. no lights, no nothing. I'm assuming something blew or fried and it was just running off the alternator for a few minutes. So, with mediocre light (no electricity out there), and no volt meter, I set about trying to track it down. The horn and hazards try to work, but not really. so I think some voltage is getting through, but just barely. I checked all the fuses, none blown. fusible links appear to be OK. I removed all 3 and inspected them for any sign of failure. That's all I could think to check without a volt meter. Obviously I will bring one with me when I go back on Thursday. But any insight would be greatly appreciated. I don't know EA81 wiring like I do newer subarus.....

we'll just have to agree to disagree, I guess. The drag link remains parallel to the panhard throughout the steering range. so it wouldn't matter if you're turning. I understand your concern in the liability of building a customer rig. This is why I bring up the examples of numerous major manufacturers building it that way. Anyway, thanks for answering. I love getting technical on suspension setups. But I still think the symptoms you describe would be caused by other factors than just not having a level panhard

um....what? care to offer some reasoning behind your opinion? It's almost exactly how many coil-sprung solid-axle front ends are setup (TJs, XJs, Land rover discos, FJ80s) respectively it's even common to have an angled drag link on a leaf-sprung truck I'm sorry man, I don't claim to be an expert. But I have a pretty good understanding of suspension geometry. And I have driven numerous rigs both on- and off-road that were setup like that, and they drive just fine. In other news....a google image search for "toyota 3-link" comes up with a few pics of Mick's brat! Nice!

I just noticed this post.... I think you're looking at the wrong steering link. The tie rod, that runs horizontally, just keeps the 2 front wheels parallel. The drag link, which connects the steering box to the knuckles, runs parallel to the panhard. This means that those 2 arms travel along the same arc. No bump-steer. From a geometry standpoint, keeping those horizontal is ideal. But in the real world, space doesn't always allow that. And as long as they stay parallel, it's perfectly safe and stable.