Numbchux

That would work. But the way to do this would be run the EJ TCU. It's much better, and simpler wiring.

It was the middle of winter, little dribble of gear oil just looks like road grime. No noise, no strange symptoms. Were any of those failures caused by insufficient gear oil? That's the issue we're talking about here. A friend of mine had a Subaru 5MT slowly leak dry. No alarming quantity of leakage. Again, zero noises or other strange symptoms. One day he got to work, and the car never rolled again until we pulled the center diff out of it (disconnecting the axles from the output shaft in the trans). A subaru rear diff (and by the looks of it, that VW/Audi one as well) has the pinion mounted at the bottom so the bearings stay submerged in gear oil. flipping it will have the exact same effect as slowly leaking dry. I'd bet money that without doing something to keep it wet, it'd seize up. "but I suppose they are only under load when in 4x4 so they should last fine." This comment is what worries me, and prompted me to post. The issue with an under-oiled pinion has nothing to do with load, and everything to do with the speed. If you had hub disconnects, you'd probably get away with it for quite some time (diff not spinning on the road). That said, overfilling it MIGHT work. The electric pump idea to circulate some fluid up to the bearings probably has a better chance of preventing failure on the highway, but sounds like a recipe for failure on the trail.

Seriously? You ask a question like that, and leave out the fact that you have a welded diff, and then get all pissed off at the responses? Screw off. You gave zero background information, and wanted a quick answer. You got the quick answer based on the crappy question, you have no-one to blame but yourself.

It's definitely possible. IIRC GLoyale did it, I think he used the bellhousing/front diff housing from an EJ transmission and was able to do it without an adapter plate. The wiring is not a small project, but the EA82 4EAT can be run on an EJ TCU, so it's just a matter of picking out the signal wires between the TCU and the transmission. That said, removing the TCU wiring from the harness is a big part of the project, by leaving it in, you'll simplify that part. It's definitely do-able, but no small project. The hardest part will be putting the EJ bellhousing on the EA transmission, as it's not a beginner project. Search for posts by user GLoyale, I'm pretty sure he did what you're talking about. Also, posts by Eulogious and presslabs. They both put an EJ TCU in their EA82t car. They were both modified for manual shifting, but that will give you an idea on what's involved in the wiring side.

just splitting hairs......but it's the up-pipe that has clearance issues but +1 to everything else. physically installing the turbo kit to your EA81 wouldn't be terribly difficult. But getting it running and tuned well would be very difficult. A lot of work for 4psi.....

when the gear oil leaked out of the rear diff in my XT6 a couple years ago. it locked up without any warning. I came to a screeching halt, sideways in the road (thank goodness there wasn't any traffic), I was able to rock the car a bit, and by abusing the crap out of the clutch, get the car out of the lane. That pinion is still one with the case. 12 ton shop press couldn't separate them.

quick answer: call a flatbed

all the work of an EJ swap (actually, depending on your fab confidence, might be more. making room for an up-pipe is not really a small project), same power, less torque, a fraction of the reliability.

which means the pinion bearings will no longer be submerged in gear oil......not good. You could probably make some sort of slinger to attach to the ring gear and sling oil up onto the pinion, but it might not work. It might work, but hang on.....having a rear diff seize on the highway is not a fun experience

it was pre-lift too. Factory alignment specs are positive camber in the front. also, camber is not adjustable. EA-series understeer is mostly caused by geometry of the rear end. It actually flexes very well, and in a corner, the front travels less than the rear, and therefore the front gets less grip. really, the only way to combat it, is adding a rear sway bar, which reduces the rear travel, and neutralizes the grip front to rear.

that bar is only there to support the spare tire. Ditch it an EA82 engine bay is plenty wide enough for any EJ engine, including phase II SOHC, and DOHC.

Cool. Every time I look at a subaru engine bay, and start thinking about RWD, the first thing I'd do is move the engine/trans back quite a bit. But yours is definitely moved back quite a bit compared to the front wheels than in a subaru. I think that's right where I'd put it. That's a very interesting take on the rules. So would you be able to gather regional points too? Although I bet even then there's a bunch of competition in G2. My buddy is currently tied for 3rd in the Open Light central championships, even though he only finished one event before putting the turbo back on Anyway, best of luck. Any chance you'll be racing next year? There's a good chance I'll be at Olympus and Oregon Trail next year....it'd be sweet to see it in the woods!

How's your firewall clearance? hard to tell in the picture, but it looks like the whole assembly could be moved back, which would be better for weight distribution... I've also been thinking. I know you said you were planning on using this for rally. Just rallyX? I'm pretty sure Rally-America doesn't allow running an engine from a different manufacturer than the car (transmission is fine, though).

yep, I used a piece like this when I put a standard EA82 radiator in my XT6 last year. worked perfectly. Radiator hose doesn't have to hold up to much pressure, so it doesn't really need to be barbed.

That's a good write-up. But am I reading that correctly? he's installing resistors to mimic the resistance of the solenoid so the TCU doesn't know it's not connected? Andyjo documented years ago that you can just run the wire through a switch. The only time the TCU verifies functionality of the solenoid is on startup. And if you leave it disconnected at startup, all it does is make the "AT oil temp" light flash. Much easier method: 1. find wire 2. cut and extend ends to where you want your switch 3. install switch

MASSIVE. There was a thread fairly recently where a guy in england put EJ suspension in the back of his Brat. Making strut towers from scratch.....not fun. And has to be EXTREMELY precise. First gen legacy ('90-'94) rear ends use male stubs on the diff that is exactly interchangeable with EA82/XT6 rear axles. Done and done. Other options include EJ inner axle cups on EA82 shafts, or swapping an EA82 diff carrier into your EJ housing/gears, that way you have the EA82 stubs. For the search feature, add an * to the end of your search term as a wild card. That will allow shorter words. Also, there's a pretty good start (written many many years ago) in the suspension section of the USRM.

That's how the EA82 ones are wired. Power side just switched with the ignition, and the ground through the thermoswitch

So one power source is split into 3 fuses? That's pretty common. There are a number of ways you could reproduce that with aftermarket stuff. Use a few different boxes with different sources (switched, unswitched, etc.). Or, get a box where the fuses are all separated internally, and connect them externally how you want to. Either way. Nothing wrong with re-using the old one.

I think you're on the right track. I suspect those 2 wires have similar uses. Just a matter of tracking it down. I really have so little experience with older subarus, my '84 brat is definitely the oldest subaru I've worked on. I guess it's a pretty good assumption it's designed to have some sort of light in it. More accurate question would be whether it's switched with the lights (separate power source/separate wire), or on all the time (shared wire). The signal wire would definitely be the one from the MSD. Power source doesn't matter too much. Needs to be switched with the ignition, and fused. I don't know what you're using for a fuse box, but I'd probably use one fuse for all your instrumentation.

alright, neither of these are quite enough information without knowing the car very well. Do either of these systems match the diagrams you posted? One of those wires is a 12v reference for the regulator. my guess is the one going to the gauges is that one (charge light?). Black/White might just be a ground. no idea about the new one without some diagrams. Does the tach have a back light? It likely has a power source, ground, and signal wire (and possibly a back light, in which case it's likely grounded through the bracket). If you can pull the gauge apart and see the circuitry, you might be able to identify the wires.

the shifter setup changes depending on numerous options, including if the truck had a bench seat or buckets. Just look at it. "top shift" and "forward shift" are pretty self explanatory. Or, throw either phrase into google, and you'll find lots of explanation and pictures.

did you research it at all? Toyota transfer case configurations are about as common a discussion as you can find. here's a good start http://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/shifter-parts/twin-stick-kit

Please don't. The toyota tcase already hangs down like a sum***************. Even with a centered front-diff, it's nothing a good u-joint can't handle. Good chance I'll buy one if you do a version with the pivot for the cable clutch.

This thing? The contact in the plastic is somewhat corroded, but I wouldn't have guessed it as a problem with a visual inspection. That said, with the ignition on, my volt meter reads just over 12 at the battery, and barely 6 at the fusible links. So I pulled out this wire and will re-do it before I go back out next week. So, thanks GD for the tip. I'll fix it up just like you suggested, hopefully that solves my problem.

So, just got back from the shop (was working on the rally car some too). Wasn't the steering rack. When we did the lift, we made strut extensions that fit between the strut and knuckle, so the strut as still at stock height. So, since the struts were never removed from the car, we didn't think to pound that little bump on the strut tower. Well, 3" blocks on the crossmember, and 4 1/4" at the strut....pulls the strut in enough that the spring rubs on the tower. got out the hammer.....and it's fixed!