Numbchux

Nice! This guy obviously built that rig.... definitely not an idiot. That thing is extremely well built, and he knows exactly what it's capable of. I'm more paranoid than most....but I see nothing alarmingly unsafe there. A helmet wouldn't be a bad idea, but that cage is going to stop just about anything

1stsubaruparts.com I've ordered from them before, great prices, good service. AFAIK, yes, it will. I plan to put it into an '87 RX output shaft, and I know a '92 legacy pinion will work in that combo.

I redrilled new holes about a half inch higher up in the bracket on an EA82 once. It was a noticeable change, but I would have liked more. But pretty good for a free mod.

Monster?

haha, Thanks!

Yea, now that you mention it, I've run EJ knuckles on my XT6s without swapping to EA81 rod ends. Any EA81 should do. I bought a pair of moogs off RockAuto for an '84 Brat on my 5-lugged Loyale.....they fit perfect!

Get those swapped out. Ea82 rod ends use a smaller shaft at the knuckle than other Subarus. They sort of work, but they will bottom out, and put too much stress on the joint. Mine lasted maybe 6 months... EJ ones are too long for the narrower EA track. But EA81 ones are perfect.

yea, custom clutch parts are not too difficult. There's a shop up here in Duluth that does it all the time (and does it very well too!)

This is really interesting. Are they AWD rotors/brackets? Great way to get the improved suspension geometry of the EJ knuckles, without messing with a new ebrake. What tie rod ends are you using?

This is not a street car. So I couldn't care less if it throws codes, as long as it doesn't effect functionality. I should have mentioned. I have a Tach Signal Divider, that will correct the 6- vs 4-cylinder rpm signal problem. We're thinking we'll run the outback trans until we blow it, and put some $$$ into building the SS trans for the time being. BUT, I just realized, that AFAIK, the newer TCUs did not have any sort of manual mode. This could be a problem, unless we can find a manual valve body of some sort for it. Also, Eulogious, this is the same project car that I pm'd you about earlier this year....

Tleg 4EATs have an extra clutch plate for every gear, so they're much stronger. And the valve body is the same as that in many Nissans of similar year, so there are aftermarket options there.

Apparently the link I had bookmarked with the 4.444 R&P part number is now bad.....had to start the search over..... so I'll post it here: 38100AB680

Long story....but basically, we're putting a '92 Legacy SS 4EAT into an '02 Outback 3.0 We have the Legacy TCU, and I'm pretty sure with a tach signal modulator we could give that TCU what it would need. But It'd be much easier to use the Outback TCU.

Oh, you're thinking of the backing plate. yea, that wouldn't be too hard to replicate if you don't already have some

Why does it have to be local? You can probably buy the parts online (either from rockauto, or here on the boards) and shipped to you for cheaper than a local source. Hop on Rock Auto, and compare part numbers to find out what years work with what. Most vehicles use a drum-in-disc parking brake system (or just plain drums). So finding a donor car with a caliper with an integrated mechanical parking brake will be difficult. Years ago, Tex had some modified or straight-up custom backing plates which allowed him to use some toyota supra calipers for the rear ebrake. Hydraulic handbrakes are not designed for prolonged use (as a parking brake). And yes, depending on the nature of your local inspections, may not pass, as they do not offer a backup in case of hydraulic failure. Same goes for line locks. I just looked on RockAuto. Those rear calipers are only listed on '88 and '89 accords, and are very expensive. You've got MUCH better luck finding a Nissan 240. Pictures of the rest of my rear ebrake conversion are in with my 5-lug swap thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79257

In the USRM, under the brake section, is my writeup of the 200SX swap. There are LOTS of pictures of the project and parts involved.

You're not going to get it up to "full" pressure with the starter (with or without the plugs in). But it will get above the ~7psi required for the oil light, and you will get quite a bit of oil circulation, make sure all the air is out, etc.

I think PLANNING on being a freelance recovery vehicle is asking for trouble. There's a reason that a tow truck for a simple recovery costs so much more than the gas/diesel and the guys time. There's a LOT of liability (and therefore insurance) involved. Most vehicles short of 3/4ton+ pickups do not have decent tow points (unless they happen to have a trailer hitch, but even then, backwards isn't always the way to go). So if you hook your tow strap up to something, and do damage, you've painted a law suit target on your back. There's also potential for injury by pulling out a vehicle with a tow strap. A winch allows a degree of control and finesse that removes a lot of safety risk from the situation. With a strap, you will have to have someone in that other vehicle, and if they don't know what to do, EVERYONE is at risk. And if something happens, you will all be wishing they'd waited for the tow truck. This is just not true. I've pulled out a few vehicles from pretty nasty spots in subarus, and even my FWD Toyota Celica. It's all about having good tires, a good recovery strap, and safe recovery practices. So while I agree it's a bad idea, I completely disagree with the logic. Justify getting good snow tires with your safety, and that of the people around you. As soon as you drive one day in mediocre conditions, you will be amazed at how much more control you have, and how much risk you were taking by driving on anything else. A good set of snow tires will cost a few hundred bucks, and last at least 3 years if you only take mediocre care of them (I have Blizzaks, which are notorious for wearing out quickly if the weather gets warm. By only running them 3 or 4 months a year, I'm on my 5th year, and I'll be shocked if I don't get 2 more). A VERY small price to pay. All that said. If you still think this is a good idea... You will need BEEFY tow pionts, and the only way to do that is to build a new rear bumper. Use some "C" channel steel, and run it in where the old bumper bolted on, and drill holes in the ends. This way you can attach a shackle right to that, which will safely direct all of the load into the unibody. Then you can weld a couple pipes to the channel to make a bumper between that. Simple, and extremely strong. Like this: Get a RECOVERY strap, not a tow strap. A tow strap has hooks on the ends, do NOT use one of these for recovery. A recovery strap has loops on the ends. You will then need at least 2 shackles to attach them to something. This will ensure that the strap stays attached to both vehicles, and drastically reduces your chances of something turning into a projectile. When you're towing, always drape something (jacket, floor mat, etc.) over the strap, you're trying to weight the strap down to prevent the projectile issue. Also avoid snapping the strap at all costs. I keep ragging on this projectile issue, but it's VERY commonly overlooked, and very dangerous. A member of our local club (Northern Minnesota Jeepers) died a few years ago pulling a couple kids out of a small mud hole. He hooked up to the tow strap on their poorly-built bumper, and gave it a tug. The welds holding the D-ring to the bumper tore, and the D-ring, and shackle, were launched. They hit him in the back of the head, and killed him on the spot.

Thanks guys! We won the dirty impreza contest, and we're only a handful down on NASIOC. I have to agree, that wrap on the whiteout car is pretty sweet.... but we've got a widebody GC, that we built 100% ourselves.

That's an absolutely reasonable concern. I sold an EJ25D short block to a guy this summer. I pulled the block myself, the car drove into the shop before the motor was pulled, it made zero noise. He called me once be got it installed saying it was knocking. I went and had a listen, and sure enough, bottom end noise.... I asked him if he primed the oil system. "Huh?" Coincidence? Maybe... but I think he ruined that motor

Carl of Ziptie Rally is in the NASIOC Top Scoob competition right now with #171, and very close to winning it!! http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2272807 And Izzy is in the Dirty Impreza one with #858...(this one closes in about 9 hours....so you might miss it) http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24075

EJ oil pumps are driven directly from the crank. No way to spin them independent of each other. I always prime the oil system, even after just an oil change. Just un-plug the crank-angle sensor, and crank until the oil light goes out. There will be compression, but no fuel or spark....

By definition of the words, 4wd part of the time means that you have another option. which you will not. you will not be able to drive out on pavement at all. Also, Subaru offers a part time box, so when you say you are going to convert it to PT, it's reasonable to assume that you are expecting it to function like one. 1. incorrect, it can be used 2. yes 3. no 4. sort of. Subaru never brought them here, but you would not be the first to import one Start with an RX box (you HAVE to use the gearset from a FT4WD D/R). Add the 1.59 low range gearset from a non turbo part time box (RX box has 1.19). Add R&P of your choice (for 4.111 or 4.444, OD of the ring will have to be reduced to clear low range gearset). Use 5MT front diff of your choice. Use matched set of EJ center diff and housing (either phase 1 and 2 can be used as a set)

Sort of. It would be AWD. In order to swap the pinion shaft, you have to start with a full-time box, and then swap the center diff and housing from an EJ car. Also, the EA82 pinion shaft is longer, so you'd have to lengthen the EJ one to work with the EA82 center diff.

I could try to offer some advice, but I'd be making assumptions since you didn't tell us the details.