Numbchux

There is an AT/MT identification wire on the '96-'99 ECUs, but you have to add a pin there for it to work. It's absolutely possible to use -'99 EJ ECUs that came from a car with an auto with a manual without any CELs.

I added a second ebrake handle in one of my lifted EA82s, and ran each cable independently to each handle. Was VERY effective at redirecting power. And extremely easy. I'll probably do something similar in my brat

There are lots of vehicles that would have something similar. Caravans had rear quarter windows that could flip open a bit like that. Sometime in the late '90s, they switch to an electric mechanism that could be operated from the driver's seat.... A quick search on ebay, brings up a few options, and it looks like dodge pickups used the exact same latch. These should be EXTREMELY easy to find in a junk yard. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-Quarter-Window-Glass-Latch-Assembly-/260954163263?fits=Model:Caravan&hash=item3cc214883f&item=260954163263&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_8172wt_1016 this one lists the OEM part number too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-4512666-Side-Window-Latch-84-95-Caravan-96-01-Ram-2500-3500-Ext-Cab-/290668002122?fits=Model:Caravan&hash=item43ad29bb4a&item=290668002122&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_499wt_718 found a picture of one installed in a pickup:

Yep, the town I live in is entirely built on a pretty steep hill. The Avenue right outside my house is on more than a 12% grade. I go pretty far out of my way to park on the streets (cutting across the hill) instead of the avenues (up and down the hill). I've never had a car with a functional parking brake move. The EA subaru ebrake uses the same piston and pads as the standard brake....it's just as strong. Keep in mind, the hill holder only uses one system. So only ONE front brake and one rear. It's not going to be any better.

What?!?! Absolutely Not! The front mechanical ebrake on EA82s work much better at making an emergency stop than most. And yes, the brake locks you're looking at (more commonly referred to as line locks) are not a good idea for anything but temporary use. Any hydraulic system will not hold the car for any length of time. I've seen electrically-operated line locks used in rock crawlers, great for holding the rig still for a minute while you hop out and have a look at your surroundings. Or even locking one wheel to help maneuver. The same principle goes for the hill holder. I would not trust it to hold the car for any period of time without me in it. IMO, Do it right (mechanical), or not at all. Having a system that will work just long enough for you to get far enough away from the car that you have no control, is asking for trouble.

The sway bar mounts on an XT6 are further forward on the crossmember than EA82s, so it's not a direct fit. Mine contacted the control arms a bit. But it should not be anywhere near any power steering lines. Perhaps installed upside down? In fact, I don't think there should be any power steering lines at all in the vicinity. Sounds like something's botched. You should post some pictures if you can.

That's pretty normal for an ARB. I'm surprised it's not more

Yep, DCCD is the only realistic way to have mostly RWD with some power to the front, like you describe. A friend of mine has an '04 USDM 6MT with a DCCDPro controller in his '96 impreza. I got to drive it quite a bit on the ice a couple weeks ago. In full "RWD" mode, it doesn't feel at all like a subaru. It's very obvious that the front wheels aren't helping at all. We actually played a joke on a friend, left it in RWD mode, and told him to give it a try. He spun out about 10 times in one lap The DCCD system uses an electromagnetically controlled LSD, combined with a mechanical rear-bias (usually 35:65, but some older models were 45:55). So, by releasing the LSD, the rear wheels will spin first. By tightening the LSD, it requires more force to get it to slip, which means the front wheels will help more. GD, AFAIK the 20kg center diff was not installed in any factory transmission. But was available as an aftermarket part from STi. It can be ordered new from http://www.japanparts.com One of the Ziptie Rally cars (bought used, as an already-built rally car) has one of these in it. I'm hoping to talk him into going to a 6MT with the new chassis, and buying it off him to use in my Brat.

Engine harness should all be grounded directly (and only) through the engine block.

If your transmission is newer, it will have an electronic sensor in it, that can be used for the VSS on the ECU. But, if you want the stock brat speedo to work, you will need to use a cable (a cable will thread right in place of the sensor if you have a newer trans). And use the reed switch in the gauge for the VSS.

This. I've done it on half a dozen subarus (of all gens....as long as they have frameless windows).

You can do this with the hubs too. Ask the front hubs on my Brat :-p I just feel like drilling the wheels is half-assing it. I borrowed a benchtop drill press from a buddy, and it was a breeze. Some grinding on the hub, and a little bit on the studs. Also, I only bought 8 studs. I reused the studs that I pulled out for the other 8. I think it depends on what you have. I only have (had...) one 4-lug subaru. And I have 4 sets of toyota wheels, 2 of them are alloys. So I have no use for 4-lug wheels. And by modifying the hubs, I can use any of those wheels (well, I bet the set with the 35s on it won't fit, but not because of the lug pattern.... )

I started looking into it. The strut top bolt orientation is slightly different. And the track width is narrower. You'll have to cut off the old spare tire support brackets that stick up. Redrill the plates on the strut tower, and cut down the brace. Keep these modifications in mind as you start looking at the different designs. I also heard that one for an RX7 (FC? I think?) would work with less modification. But I never looked into it. Also, look into fender braces. A tower brace is a help, but it is key to tie them into the core of the unibody.

Because Baccaruda was one of the few guys who had done and documented the EJ swap when I did the write-up. And I did so much reading and studying when I was doing that, it's pretty deeply ingrained. In fact, that picture and paragraph are in the write-up.

That flange will be right up against the stock crossmember. It'll take some serious modification This is also true. The tstat housing comes straight out the bottom of a n/a pump, and it comes out the front of a turbo. So you'd need a turbo pump and tstat housing.

That's exactly what baccaruda did. Search for his posts on the subject.

Yes, so yes, turbo headers will bolt to a non-turbo motor. BUT, it will not clear an n/a engine crossmember.

17x8 +48s, with 215/45r17s. Lowered about 2". Fenders rolled at all 4 corners springs: 250 lb/in front and 275 lb/in rear (stiffer than stock, but relatively soft for most coilover sleeves), with stock damping. Never had any rubbing issues with those tires. 205/65r15 snow tires (actually taller overall than the 17s) also fit fine. I did have some issues with 225/55r16 track tires on stock WRX wheels as the offset was too high for 6.5" wide wheels.

Some pre-Sno*Drift testing last weekend.... (Don't forget to turn up the quality. Video taken on a Contour HD camera in 1080 HD) All chase video taken from my Celica: Rally car on Blizzak WS70s, and mine on Revo1s.

What surface are you on when you do this? Dry pavement will bind pretty easily, but if you're getting these symptoms on ice, you've got a pretty big problem. But it's definitely binding up. This means the front and rear pinions are trying to spin at different speeds. This can be caused, obviously, by different gear ratios. The only 3.7 PT4WD D/R I know of was in the 85 and 86 RX, which would definitely be 25 spline. So you're probably right on the trans. How sure are you of the rear diff ratio? I'm assuming if it came from the same car you would have said so... Or, if the front and rear wheels are spinning at different speeds. Meaning their average circumference is different. If you're experiencing this symptom on dry pavement, it could just be a slightly different tire pressure....

EA82 rear calipers are identical.....so yea, those will work.

Least of the problems with STi axles. The STi uses an R180 rear diff. very different...

You can use an EJ clutch disk. But you have to use an EA pressure plate and throughout bearing. And it's the pressure plate that offers the clamping force. IMHO the extra cost of piecing together a clutch kit won't be worth the minimal gains. A Beck/Arnley XT6 kit holds up to an EJ22 wonderfully.

Also stock rear springs have a large diameter than coilovers, which make for some clearance issues in an EA82. It's possible, but not nearly the easy solution you're invisioning