Numbchux

You can do this with the hubs too. Ask the front hubs on my Brat :-p I just feel like drilling the wheels is half-assing it. I borrowed a benchtop drill press from a buddy, and it was a breeze. Some grinding on the hub, and a little bit on the studs. Also, I only bought 8 studs. I reused the studs that I pulled out for the other 8. I think it depends on what you have. I only have (had...) one 4-lug subaru. And I have 4 sets of toyota wheels, 2 of them are alloys. So I have no use for 4-lug wheels. And by modifying the hubs, I can use any of those wheels (well, I bet the set with the 35s on it won't fit, but not because of the lug pattern.... )

I started looking into it. The strut top bolt orientation is slightly different. And the track width is narrower. You'll have to cut off the old spare tire support brackets that stick up. Redrill the plates on the strut tower, and cut down the brace. Keep these modifications in mind as you start looking at the different designs. I also heard that one for an RX7 (FC? I think?) would work with less modification. But I never looked into it. Also, look into fender braces. A tower brace is a help, but it is key to tie them into the core of the unibody.

Because Baccaruda was one of the few guys who had done and documented the EJ swap when I did the write-up. And I did so much reading and studying when I was doing that, it's pretty deeply ingrained. In fact, that picture and paragraph are in the write-up.

That flange will be right up against the stock crossmember. It'll take some serious modification This is also true. The tstat housing comes straight out the bottom of a n/a pump, and it comes out the front of a turbo. So you'd need a turbo pump and tstat housing.

That's exactly what baccaruda did. Search for his posts on the subject.

Yes, so yes, turbo headers will bolt to a non-turbo motor. BUT, it will not clear an n/a engine crossmember.

17x8 +48s, with 215/45r17s. Lowered about 2". Fenders rolled at all 4 corners springs: 250 lb/in front and 275 lb/in rear (stiffer than stock, but relatively soft for most coilover sleeves), with stock damping. Never had any rubbing issues with those tires. 205/65r15 snow tires (actually taller overall than the 17s) also fit fine. I did have some issues with 225/55r16 track tires on stock WRX wheels as the offset was too high for 6.5" wide wheels.

Some pre-Sno*Drift testing last weekend.... (Don't forget to turn up the quality. Video taken on a Contour HD camera in 1080 HD) All chase video taken from my Celica: Rally car on Blizzak WS70s, and mine on Revo1s.

What surface are you on when you do this? Dry pavement will bind pretty easily, but if you're getting these symptoms on ice, you've got a pretty big problem. But it's definitely binding up. This means the front and rear pinions are trying to spin at different speeds. This can be caused, obviously, by different gear ratios. The only 3.7 PT4WD D/R I know of was in the 85 and 86 RX, which would definitely be 25 spline. So you're probably right on the trans. How sure are you of the rear diff ratio? I'm assuming if it came from the same car you would have said so... Or, if the front and rear wheels are spinning at different speeds. Meaning their average circumference is different. If you're experiencing this symptom on dry pavement, it could just be a slightly different tire pressure....

EA82 rear calipers are identical.....so yea, those will work.

Least of the problems with STi axles. The STi uses an R180 rear diff. very different...

You can use an EJ clutch disk. But you have to use an EA pressure plate and throughout bearing. And it's the pressure plate that offers the clamping force. IMHO the extra cost of piecing together a clutch kit won't be worth the minimal gains. A Beck/Arnley XT6 kit holds up to an EJ22 wonderfully.

Also stock rear springs have a large diameter than coilovers, which make for some clearance issues in an EA82. It's possible, but not nearly the easy solution you're invisioning

Nice! This guy obviously built that rig.... definitely not an idiot. That thing is extremely well built, and he knows exactly what it's capable of. I'm more paranoid than most....but I see nothing alarmingly unsafe there. A helmet wouldn't be a bad idea, but that cage is going to stop just about anything

1stsubaruparts.com I've ordered from them before, great prices, good service. AFAIK, yes, it will. I plan to put it into an '87 RX output shaft, and I know a '92 legacy pinion will work in that combo.

I redrilled new holes about a half inch higher up in the bracket on an EA82 once. It was a noticeable change, but I would have liked more. But pretty good for a free mod.

Monster?

haha, Thanks!

Yea, now that you mention it, I've run EJ knuckles on my XT6s without swapping to EA81 rod ends. Any EA81 should do. I bought a pair of moogs off RockAuto for an '84 Brat on my 5-lugged Loyale.....they fit perfect!

Get those swapped out. Ea82 rod ends use a smaller shaft at the knuckle than other Subarus. They sort of work, but they will bottom out, and put too much stress on the joint. Mine lasted maybe 6 months... EJ ones are too long for the narrower EA track. But EA81 ones are perfect.

yea, custom clutch parts are not too difficult. There's a shop up here in Duluth that does it all the time (and does it very well too!)

This is really interesting. Are they AWD rotors/brackets? Great way to get the improved suspension geometry of the EJ knuckles, without messing with a new ebrake. What tie rod ends are you using?

This is not a street car. So I couldn't care less if it throws codes, as long as it doesn't effect functionality. I should have mentioned. I have a Tach Signal Divider, that will correct the 6- vs 4-cylinder rpm signal problem. We're thinking we'll run the outback trans until we blow it, and put some $$$ into building the SS trans for the time being. BUT, I just realized, that AFAIK, the newer TCUs did not have any sort of manual mode. This could be a problem, unless we can find a manual valve body of some sort for it. Also, Eulogious, this is the same project car that I pm'd you about earlier this year....

Tleg 4EATs have an extra clutch plate for every gear, so they're much stronger. And the valve body is the same as that in many Nissans of similar year, so there are aftermarket options there.