Numbchux

Height wouldn't matter. I don't know the offset of stock WRX wheels, so there might be some extra to be gained, but probably not enough to clear the suspension without having body issues. 17x8 +48: with 215/45r17s, rolled, but not pulled

I put a set of Kumho VictoRacers (probably oversized) in a 225/55r16 on factory 16x6.5s. They rubbed on the trailing arm something fierce. I don't know what the offset on those is, so you might be ok

Muffler on (needs another hanger...but close). So I took it for a little test-drive. Not running 100%. Not a lot of power, it bogs down more than a bit, but it does OK. It's got a few vacuum lines that aren't connected, and the 02 sensor isn't connected, so I'll get those issues fixed, and see where it's at then. Also, I don't think I'm getting anywhere near full travel out of the throttle plate. Need to look into that. But, getting closer still

This arrived today, and I did the paperwork and money exchange to get collector plates. It will be ready for a test-drive very soon!

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. The radiator is not the weak link in the EA82 cooling system. I daily drove my EJ22 loyale on the stock, 180k mile, single-row radiator with no fans for most of the year. Just had to watch it when you're going less than 20mph or so (I live in an area where stop and go traffic is non existent). When that radiator finally corroded it's way to pieces (pull-through aftermarket fan mounts put a few nails in that coffin), I switched to an all-metal one from performance radiator: https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_32557_32785_32786_32787&product_id=10879 Stock Outback hoses, with a spacer at each end to make up the difference in diameter. Done.

Turbo Loyales would have come with the AWD 4EAT just like the EJs.

not really. there is a fuse holder in the engine bay to disconnect the transfer clutches (power only goes to the front), but all the moving parts are still there, and releasing the transfer clutches is done with more hydraulic pressure, so you won't see any change in mileage, just a loss of traction. You could actually remove the rear axles, diff, and rear section of the driveshaft, but that would still only make for marginal gains. Not worth the work, IMO. Ditch the auto if you want to improve your mileage.

True, but xt6 backing plates are bigger (bigger discs) which means the ebrake arm will clear the trailing arm. Check my write up in the USRM on the topic. Lots o pictures.

Rear shocks are mounted: The lower mounts use a 1/2" bolt, but the bushing in the shock have a 5/8" hole. So I got a spacer to take up that slack, this also means I can tighten the bolt without squishing the rubber bushing. And then another spacer to keep the shock body off the bracket: The uppers use a 5/8" bolt, so when I first put it together, as soon as I tightened the bolt, it smashed the rubber bushing before I got it very tight. So I cut one of my standoff spacers in half, and put another nut in there. So I can tighten the nuts against the plate/each other, without squishing the shock bushing: Fuel filler and vent extensions: And cowl scoop mounted....not sure if I'm going to paint over the pop rivets or not...

If those are the bolts you are referring to. I'm pretty sure they are 12mm threads, which are smaller than 1/2". A couple of my lifts have used 1/2 hardware there, never had any strange clunks. As long as they're tight, it's not going to shift around.

These were all matching part numbers? In that case, it has nothing to do with the distributor (RockAuto), as they do not put the parts in the boxes, they just pull a box with the correct part number, and ship it to you. Sounds like they've been nothing but awesome to you. This is like going into a Domino's Pizza, and complaining about the pre-bottled Coke products they carry........oh wait, people do that too

I assume he means Beck/Arnley. I've always run Moog BJs and TREs. Always been satisfied. Can't tell from those pics if those are actually for a different application, or just slightly different design. As long as the diameters of the housing and shaft are the same, it should be fine. +1 for this being a Moog mixup, and nothing to do with RockAuto. This is like the KYB Excel-G/GR2 issue. They are the exact same strut, except name and color, so KYB uses the same part number. Which means if you order them (from anywhere) you don't really know what you're going to get. My Celica has 3 Excel-Gs and one GR2.....oh well. Also, loyale parts: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/products.asp?cat=19313 Lists a ball joint, same part number you have. Obviously a generic file photo, but there it is.

Which crossmember bolts? The ones that hold the crossmember to the frame go all the way through. Wouldn't matter what size you use as long as it fits in the hole and you get a matching nut. Also, for the most part, Subaru hardware is 4mm smaller than the head (14mm socket = 10mm threads) and a 1.25 thread/mm pitch.

I absolutely love rockauto. I order from them once every couple months. Never had any issues with them specifically (My local FedEx carriers are absolute garbage....and rockauto doesn't have a distinction between shipping carriers). Something to be aware of with RockAuto. The applications are not 100% accurate. If you select a model and engine, sometimes it will still show parts that are not applicable. BUT, they do list all the specifications and part numbers available from the part manufacturer. This will usually include spline counts (where applicable, obviusly), sub-models/trim, and actual measurements, they frequently show detailed pictures, sometimes even technical diagrams, so you can make sure it's exactly the correct part. They leave some of the work to the end-user. When I'm ordering EA8x parts, I really try to avoid '85-'88 if I possibly can. I'll order for an '84 if I'm looking for EA81, or '89 for an EA82. All that said, I've had very good luck with Beck/Arnley parts. They are more expensive, but everything I've gotten is very high quality. We redid my girlfriend's Kia's rear brakes last summer with all Beck/Arnley parts (drums, shoes, cylinders), all much higher quality than OEM (doesn't say a lot....but there it is).

It moved under it's own power today. Mounted the gas tank, hooked up the wiring (now using stock fuel pump wiring, as it's in the tank now), hooked up the extended fuel filler, and the high pressure fuel line. Then I poured a few gallons of gas in there. After priming the pump a few times, gas came out of the return. So, since I knew it was hooked up correctly, and pumping, I connected the return line. Once it was running, I moved some crap around, and backed the truck out into the daylight. First time it's moved under it's own power in almost 3 years. Looks sweet, IMO. Loving that rear bumper in the daylight Set the cowl on it again to get a look at it with the rest of the truck Then after putting it away, I wired in the alternator and a couple other piddly things. Then I painted the cowl black, and set it on there again: I think I'm going to paint the center section of the hood black as well.

nope, 2 mounts on each trailing arm. that's it.

I'm interested, pending price. If it's comparable to lunchbox lockers for larger rigs, I'd be in for sure.

Woa.....someone's been searching. This thread is from 2005.

It was on sale, $300 after tax, I think. It's amazing, though. We had a pretty light winter, but everything stayed completely dry inside.

Fuel line cracked while mocking up tank mounts... Compression fitting, bulkhead fitting, right angle, and hose barb..... Since I had it apart, I mounted my new fuel pump down in the tank in place of the old one. Old "Genuine Steel" rear bumper: New 4xInnovations one. Designed for a 2" Body Lift, with VERY beefy tow points which are solid mounted to the frame without relying on welds at all, and a class 2 rated 2" receiver hitch. And with some POR15 Some rattlecan paint to come later, this combination will prevent rust, and be easy to effectively touch up. Also did a test-fit. If I adjust my radiator fan mounts, and lower the fan to the bottom of the rad, it will give a lot more clearance from the water pump.

Still haven't been to the shop.... BUT, I picked up a pile (6...) of free EJ axles. One was a front with a 4EAT stub still in it. So it was just a matter of pounding out the pin and comparing it to a 5MT one that I have. Ioku was exactly correct (not that I doubted him, just cool to see it in a side-by-side comparison). The notch for the circlip/snapring is in a different place. But, other than that (and a slight taper on the end of the 4eat stub), they are essentially identical. 4EAT on the left, 5MT on the right. Sorry they're not lined up very well, but you can still see the differences. Not sure if I want to cut a notch like that by hand, with a dremel. I might test it on a 25 spline one and see how it looks. I will certainly get a quote from a machine shop, though

According to the XT parts catalog that was recently made digital thanks to mr.radon and grossgary over on the XT boards (if you haven't seen it....click here to download it). I'm looking at pages 136-141 in the tranny section. I started looking to see if there was any similarities or differences in the front axle stubs, and I actually found a matching part number. Interesting, so I started looking closer. 3ATs actually have internal snaprings just like the 5MTs. Then, I decided to look a little closer. The Differential "case" (carrier), part number shows "38421 AAOOO" for the FWD 5MT, and the same part number for all 3ATs. A little digging on opposedforces.com pulls up that same part number for FWD impreza 5MTs. But some FWD cars (and AWD cars) list 38421 AA020. Then I compared the differential bearings. These actually have dimensions... the FWD ones are 37x72x18, and the turbo/4WD ones are 40x80x19 But, I think the bearing retainers are interchangeable. They have different part numbers (for different IDs), but the O-ring that seals the OD is the same. What does this all mean?? Well....not much, really. I find it interesting, as it means that 3ATs are not the missing link in my search for 23-spline stubs that will interchange with 4EAT stubs (in my carbonetic front LSD). It also means, that with the bearing retainers, bearings, and seals from an AWD 5MT, a person could put an LSD designed for any AWD 5MT into a 3AT. I highly doubt anybody would spend that kind of cash on a 3AT.....but there it is.

I bet it will. I've seen numerous early EJs converted to hydraulic using WRX pedal boxes and such, and it all bolts right up.

That's interesting. I'm but opposed to cutting a whole new slot if that's what it takes. Next time I'm out at the shop, I know there are a couple junk 4EATs, so I'll pull a stub and see how it compares. Yea, the Carbonetic website says it requires AT WRX stubs, but lists the part number, which turns out to be good for all 4EATs. But once it arrived, I tried one of the 5MT stubs I had (88 XT6, 92 Legacy, or 94 Impreza), and it fit perfectly. But, this is a clutch type diff, so I can't see where they are inside. Good news is, these stubs will be removable without opening the case...

It is possible, but can be a pain. Due to all the variations in shaft diameter, spline count, cup diameter, etc. It's a crapshoot finding the parts needed. And since this is a lifted rig, with low gears, LSDs, and EJ power, I expect to break axles. I'd much rather do the work now, so that I don't have to every time I break them.