Numbchux

Rear shocks are mounted: The lower mounts use a 1/2" bolt, but the bushing in the shock have a 5/8" hole. So I got a spacer to take up that slack, this also means I can tighten the bolt without squishing the rubber bushing. And then another spacer to keep the shock body off the bracket: The uppers use a 5/8" bolt, so when I first put it together, as soon as I tightened the bolt, it smashed the rubber bushing before I got it very tight. So I cut one of my standoff spacers in half, and put another nut in there. So I can tighten the nuts against the plate/each other, without squishing the shock bushing: Fuel filler and vent extensions: And cowl scoop mounted....not sure if I'm going to paint over the pop rivets or not...

If those are the bolts you are referring to. I'm pretty sure they are 12mm threads, which are smaller than 1/2". A couple of my lifts have used 1/2 hardware there, never had any strange clunks. As long as they're tight, it's not going to shift around.

These were all matching part numbers? In that case, it has nothing to do with the distributor (RockAuto), as they do not put the parts in the boxes, they just pull a box with the correct part number, and ship it to you. Sounds like they've been nothing but awesome to you. This is like going into a Domino's Pizza, and complaining about the pre-bottled Coke products they carry........oh wait, people do that too

I assume he means Beck/Arnley. I've always run Moog BJs and TREs. Always been satisfied. Can't tell from those pics if those are actually for a different application, or just slightly different design. As long as the diameters of the housing and shaft are the same, it should be fine. +1 for this being a Moog mixup, and nothing to do with RockAuto. This is like the KYB Excel-G/GR2 issue. They are the exact same strut, except name and color, so KYB uses the same part number. Which means if you order them (from anywhere) you don't really know what you're going to get. My Celica has 3 Excel-Gs and one GR2.....oh well. Also, loyale parts: http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/products.asp?cat=19313 Lists a ball joint, same part number you have. Obviously a generic file photo, but there it is.

Which crossmember bolts? The ones that hold the crossmember to the frame go all the way through. Wouldn't matter what size you use as long as it fits in the hole and you get a matching nut. Also, for the most part, Subaru hardware is 4mm smaller than the head (14mm socket = 10mm threads) and a 1.25 thread/mm pitch.

I absolutely love rockauto. I order from them once every couple months. Never had any issues with them specifically (My local FedEx carriers are absolute garbage....and rockauto doesn't have a distinction between shipping carriers). Something to be aware of with RockAuto. The applications are not 100% accurate. If you select a model and engine, sometimes it will still show parts that are not applicable. BUT, they do list all the specifications and part numbers available from the part manufacturer. This will usually include spline counts (where applicable, obviusly), sub-models/trim, and actual measurements, they frequently show detailed pictures, sometimes even technical diagrams, so you can make sure it's exactly the correct part. They leave some of the work to the end-user. When I'm ordering EA8x parts, I really try to avoid '85-'88 if I possibly can. I'll order for an '84 if I'm looking for EA81, or '89 for an EA82. All that said, I've had very good luck with Beck/Arnley parts. They are more expensive, but everything I've gotten is very high quality. We redid my girlfriend's Kia's rear brakes last summer with all Beck/Arnley parts (drums, shoes, cylinders), all much higher quality than OEM (doesn't say a lot....but there it is).

It moved under it's own power today. Mounted the gas tank, hooked up the wiring (now using stock fuel pump wiring, as it's in the tank now), hooked up the extended fuel filler, and the high pressure fuel line. Then I poured a few gallons of gas in there. After priming the pump a few times, gas came out of the return. So, since I knew it was hooked up correctly, and pumping, I connected the return line. Once it was running, I moved some crap around, and backed the truck out into the daylight. First time it's moved under it's own power in almost 3 years. Looks sweet, IMO. Loving that rear bumper in the daylight Set the cowl on it again to get a look at it with the rest of the truck Then after putting it away, I wired in the alternator and a couple other piddly things. Then I painted the cowl black, and set it on there again: I think I'm going to paint the center section of the hood black as well.

nope, 2 mounts on each trailing arm. that's it.

I'm interested, pending price. If it's comparable to lunchbox lockers for larger rigs, I'd be in for sure.

Woa.....someone's been searching. This thread is from 2005.

It was on sale, $300 after tax, I think. It's amazing, though. We had a pretty light winter, but everything stayed completely dry inside.

Fuel line cracked while mocking up tank mounts... Compression fitting, bulkhead fitting, right angle, and hose barb..... Since I had it apart, I mounted my new fuel pump down in the tank in place of the old one. Old "Genuine Steel" rear bumper: New 4xInnovations one. Designed for a 2" Body Lift, with VERY beefy tow points which are solid mounted to the frame without relying on welds at all, and a class 2 rated 2" receiver hitch. And with some POR15 Some rattlecan paint to come later, this combination will prevent rust, and be easy to effectively touch up. Also did a test-fit. If I adjust my radiator fan mounts, and lower the fan to the bottom of the rad, it will give a lot more clearance from the water pump.

Still haven't been to the shop.... BUT, I picked up a pile (6...) of free EJ axles. One was a front with a 4EAT stub still in it. So it was just a matter of pounding out the pin and comparing it to a 5MT one that I have. Ioku was exactly correct (not that I doubted him, just cool to see it in a side-by-side comparison). The notch for the circlip/snapring is in a different place. But, other than that (and a slight taper on the end of the 4eat stub), they are essentially identical. 4EAT on the left, 5MT on the right. Sorry they're not lined up very well, but you can still see the differences. Not sure if I want to cut a notch like that by hand, with a dremel. I might test it on a 25 spline one and see how it looks. I will certainly get a quote from a machine shop, though

According to the XT parts catalog that was recently made digital thanks to mr.radon and grossgary over on the XT boards (if you haven't seen it....click here to download it). I'm looking at pages 136-141 in the tranny section. I started looking to see if there was any similarities or differences in the front axle stubs, and I actually found a matching part number. Interesting, so I started looking closer. 3ATs actually have internal snaprings just like the 5MTs. Then, I decided to look a little closer. The Differential "case" (carrier), part number shows "38421 AAOOO" for the FWD 5MT, and the same part number for all 3ATs. A little digging on opposedforces.com pulls up that same part number for FWD impreza 5MTs. But some FWD cars (and AWD cars) list 38421 AA020. Then I compared the differential bearings. These actually have dimensions... the FWD ones are 37x72x18, and the turbo/4WD ones are 40x80x19 But, I think the bearing retainers are interchangeable. They have different part numbers (for different IDs), but the O-ring that seals the OD is the same. What does this all mean?? Well....not much, really. I find it interesting, as it means that 3ATs are not the missing link in my search for 23-spline stubs that will interchange with 4EAT stubs (in my carbonetic front LSD). It also means, that with the bearing retainers, bearings, and seals from an AWD 5MT, a person could put an LSD designed for any AWD 5MT into a 3AT. I highly doubt anybody would spend that kind of cash on a 3AT.....but there it is.

I bet it will. I've seen numerous early EJs converted to hydraulic using WRX pedal boxes and such, and it all bolts right up.

That's interesting. I'm but opposed to cutting a whole new slot if that's what it takes. Next time I'm out at the shop, I know there are a couple junk 4EATs, so I'll pull a stub and see how it compares. Yea, the Carbonetic website says it requires AT WRX stubs, but lists the part number, which turns out to be good for all 4EATs. But once it arrived, I tried one of the 5MT stubs I had (88 XT6, 92 Legacy, or 94 Impreza), and it fit perfectly. But, this is a clutch type diff, so I can't see where they are inside. Good news is, these stubs will be removable without opening the case...

It is possible, but can be a pain. Due to all the variations in shaft diameter, spline count, cup diameter, etc. It's a crapshoot finding the parts needed. And since this is a lifted rig, with low gears, LSDs, and EJ power, I expect to break axles. I'd much rather do the work now, so that I don't have to every time I break them.

I thought that might be the case. I'm thinking a few careful minutes with a dremel could fix that though. I don't know what all is required to swap to EA82 parts. I have heard the opening for the strut is a different size, which would be a problem, as that's where my lift block is...

Couple more pictures just popped up:

Really? Thanks for the clarification. A friend of mine used to daily drive a diesel vanagon westy. I'm sure he told me it was a boxer.

My work with EJ18s is limited (even though I own one ). But I'm pretty sure....the bolts for all EJ TBs are the same configuration. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/16175AA150/ TB gasket. I found many different part numbers, but they overlap. This one lists all years of the 1.8, and I many years of the 2.5. agreed. I think I understand about 10% of what he says.

And cut....

Well, the cowl as-is will hit the windshield once the hood is open, so it's got to be cut back. So it might as well be cut back quite a bit for a better fit... Also made progress on the exhaust. Welded a reducer onto the flange on the passenger side. And reusing the Y-pipe that was on the Blazer (cut shorter, of course). Since space is so tight, I'm just going to use slip fittings and muffler clamps to put it together. It might leak some, but it'll do, and remain serviceable.

Just an observer but please clarify for others that may see this. It makes it sound like you put a 2.5 intake onto a 2.2 or 1.8 to me and in my experience that WON'T work. I hear it will with the stuff after 2000 or so though. Key phrase "and swapped the engine harness between them". You are correct, the intake manifold will not swap, but the manifold has to be removed to swap the wiring harness.

I really don't recommend this. I think it's absolutely worth the time to trace every wire through the harness and get rid of it. If it goes to a plug that you know you need, identify it and label it. Also, the ABS system uses some shielded wires.....you don't have to save those But yea, be careful around the crank and cam sensor wires. Those can cause problems.