Numbchux

99 Outback SUS that I've posted about before. Bought it a couple weeks ago. Crank pulley had backed out, lots of oil everywhere. But it ran. Pulled it out, did a mild reseal (pulled the valve covers off to find the heads have been recently hot tanked, so we didn't do head gaskets). The crank snout was so screwed up, we ruined the tone ring on the sprocket getting it off. A friend had a brand new one he bought for a 01 RS, so we used that. We just put everything together, and went to start it up, and it cranks a few times, catches, then backfires through the intake, puff of exhaust out of the airbox and everything. I'm 99.9% sure we got the timing right with the new belt. Everything appears to be hooked up. Any ideas? is there a chance that the tone ring on this sprocket is slightly different?

You have to go into a situation like that, assuming that the engine is junk. I bought my 4runner with similar hopes, and lost. But, I paid about that much, for a truck with 130k on it, and almost zero rust (I live in the rust belt.....that's huge). So the shell was worth that much. If it were the 4.0, I'd be more tempted. A little more robust, and easier to work on. "Very good winter tires" are cooper weathermasters (meh, in my experience), and look to be at least half worn. They're worth about a hundred bucks. Which makes me question "very clean interior and very good exterior" Consider what it's worth (to you) with a good engine, how much it'll cost you to replace the engine, a little simple arithmetic, and you have your price. My math comes up with considerably less than 1300.

You are mistaken, sir. 4-lug axles and 5-lug axle outers are completely different animals.

I've used many different combinations. I used the Uncle Scotty's Cocktail in 2 transmissions...... never again. Part of that is Red Line lightweight shockproof additive, which is the component that is too thin to lubricate the bearings in a Subaru transmission. Does that mean all Red Line products are junk? No, probably not, but it's left a pretty sour taste in my mouth. I like Valvoline products in general, and have used straight Valv 80-90. Pretty happy with it's lubricating quality, but made winter shifting very difficult. Similar with Castrol HypoyC. I've used Rislone engine additive with the above 2 as a cleaning agent. It's pretty incredible. When we got my dad's old '94 LGT, you could not get it to engage 2nd. A fluid change with a quart of rislone, and it shifted like new again. After 6 months or so, switched to the cocktail which quickly resulted in bearing noise, then switched to straight gear oil, and got another 100k miles before a bearing finally let loose. But.....nothing but Subaru Extra-S for my Subaru manual transmissions now. Great shifting, happy bearings, good for LSDs (viscous, helical, and clutch).

I had a thought today, which pertained to your build, and I'm curious what you're going to do about it. Heater hoses.....sounds simple enough :-p Well, Toyota's actually have a valve in the heater hose that adjusts the flow through the core, and that is how they adjust the temperature. Subarus redirect the air flow around the core. Which means that there is always coolant going through those lines. I've heard of many a Subaru-powered buggy, where they capped off those lines, and then had overheating issues, because the tstat is located at the bottom of the engine, without that circulation, it doesn't get hot correctly, and doesn't open. Plans? Bypass? F*** the heater? Tstat relocation? Something else awesome?

Yea, bought this car with the plan of putting the 251 in it. Less than 12 hours after taking delivery, a good friend of mine (and owner of the shop where 2 of my cars live) blew up the 251 in his '01 Outback. So we had to make a quick decision.

EJ251 is already in it's new home.....which is not this car. I have a local feeler out for a good used crank, but we'll be ordering all the gaskets that we need to tonight or tomorrow, and hopefully have this thing ready for a new home by this time next week.

Yep. there's a little cap in the bottom of the axle cup. And if you have the E10 bit required, you can actually remove the stub with the cup still attached. Unbolting the outer race for the carrier bearing (5 bolts on the case) will do you nothing. Go ahead and put those back in.

He did. This picture, already in this thread: was his. The blue wagon in the background was mine at the time, and his brat can be seen in the foreground.

RockAuto is only as good as the operator.... I love it, and use it all the time. Have for years. That said, there's a lot of variation in axle boots. The important dimensions (shaft and cup sizes) are not consistent across body styles. For example, typically FWD cars had beefier axles. These would mean a change in what boot to use. Also, inner and outer boots are different, as the joints are different. Outers are CVJs and inners are DOJs, DOJs telescope, and therefore the boot needs to absorb that, whereas CVJs are capable of higher angle. These would also effect boot design. Also, over the years, many vehicles have had axles replaced. Sometimes with remanufactured ones, used ones, OEM ones, or even new aftermarket. As you might imagine, these all need not have the same dimensions as an OEM shaft to fit and function like one. In short. The only way to know if the parts you have will fit the parts you have.....is to try it. And if it doesn't work, measure the crap out of them so when you go to get new ones, you can increase your chance of getting the correct one.

I know at one point it was said that the Ski team had a contact with Subaru that all ski team wagons would have their decals removed when they had served their purpose. So privately owned examples are pretty rare.

And 260 lb/ft of torque. The peak hp isn't that much better than the Subaru motor, but you're not going to get the power curve of the 4.3 out of a Subaru motor. MAYBE the 3.3 with some serious custom work...... Anyway, I'm extremely jealous that you are actually taking on this project. But don't you worry, even with the automatic, and extra weight of the 4.3 and topper, I bet my yota is faster :cool:

FYI.....Roman Numerals for "4", is IV

Well, this is a fix n flip car. I don't think intake manifold adapters are going to go over well for reselling...But I will remember that for future projects, as I'm sure I'll be encountering this again. Also, I say "rebuild", but it's not a full rebuild. This car runs great, just leaks. So it'll be a Head gasket/reseal/timing belt job. It's already got close to 200k miles on it, and although the body is pretty rust-free for a midwest car, I would be impressed if the chassis holds up for another 100k miles. Even with a full engine reseal, and a new fender/mirror, I'll have about $1500 into it, and blue book on it about $5k....

Jeez, that seems like a lot more work. Yea, after staring at it for awhile, I think this is more work than it's worth. Also, I'm pretty sure the ECU pinout I found was for a phase II EJ22, which has a 3 wire IAC, but they're a different 3 wires than the older IAC (as mentioned above). But the EJ251 IAC is actually a 6-wire. So, we're rebuilding an EJ25D, and going to clean up that crank snout. Off to the search feature to find out what the correct head gaskets are for that, I seem to remember that there was an updated part number or something.

So, As I mentioned in my thread in the new gen section, I just bought a '99 SUS with a mangled crank snout. My coworker just parted out a '01 RS. So, since the EJ25D is leaking like mad anyway, let's yank it out, and put in the 251. Pulled the EJ25D last night, and noticed an oversight. Continued research today has me worried. All EJ25Ds have the idle air solenoid mounted to the manifold next to the throttle body. And all EJ251s have it integrated into the throttle body. Then came the thought, we'll just swap throttle bodies. Well, then we'll have nowhere to put the solenoid. So, started researching swapping electrical connectors, and having the 25D ECU control the 251 stuff.....looks like the TPS would be fine, but the idle air, not so much. Looking at the pinouts, looks like the 25D has an Open and closed signal circuit coming from the ECU. Where the 251 just has one signal wire. What are the odds, that I could hook up the Open signal wire from the 25D ECU to the lone signal wire on the 251 IAC, and have it work? Plan B....Possible that a phase 1 EJ22 intake manifold would work? Gaskets are a different part number, but they look awefully similar.

Got the motor out tonight, it needs a pretty substantial reseal before it should be used again anyway... But....

I have driven a non-Subaru offroad rig with a welded front. It was very frustrating to try to get that thing to go where you wanted it to. But, each to their own. It sounds like you've weighed the pros and cons. And if you hate it, just throw an open diff in there.... I don't think anyone has done it before, so you'll be the first.

I don't think it's been done with a 5-speed. I know Mudrat did it many years ago in his hatch with a 4EAT for their Rubicon run. Have to either weld the center diff, or get one of those RWD conversion sleeves (basically center diff delete). CV axles will depend on what you use for a front diff. But I don't think there is a Subaru rear diff that would work with your STi axles. If you get an EA series rear diff, it has 23-spline male stubs out of the diff, and you could use '93-'94 FWD 5MT Impreza axles without modification (well, they probably wouldn't like the track width of the STi control arms...). Then it's just a matter of all the other fabrication involved in a divorced Tcase rig, which is fairly well documented here.

They both appear to have original head gaskets. I think the 25D should come out for a reseal anyway....so I'm still leaning more towards putting the 251 in it's place.... Still runs. So I'm guessing they're OK :-p

Wow, my apologies. I didn't bother searching, as I didn't think this would be even remotely common :o That's very good news. I will take pictures of it when we get in there. I am concerned that the snout damage will effect the timing sprocket too. So, we'll see. It does run, though, so it might be salvageable. I still haven't decided which motor I'd rather run. They're both pretty high mileage (170k on the 25D, and 200k on the 251), and we're thinking of keeping the car to replace my girlfriend's POS KIA. In which case I think I'd still rather have the 251. If we sell it, I'd rather there not be anything we have to "make the buyer aware of"....

Just bought Subaru #12 for me. It's a '99 SUS, the woman I bought it from said it needed an engine, and she didn't know why, but I got it for $700. A coworker of mine has happened to have just finished parting out an '01 2.5RS with a great motor..... But, as we took a look at what was wrong with the SUS, it appears the crank bolt backed out, the pulley walked out a bit, broke off the key, and took a pretty nasty gouge out of the crank snout. As soon as I saw that, I shrugged and said, "oh well, at least we still have that EJ251". But, some of my coworkers (AutoZone) were talking about some different epoxies and such that might successfully repair this damage. Thoughts?

Wow. That's crazy. How far do you think you've lifted the drivetrain to get to that point? Hows the clearance at the front? That's awesome. But makes me really glad I didn't try to do an EG33 into my truck when I did the swap. I knew I didn't have the skills/equipment/space for the fab work to do it, and I massively underestimated how much would be needed. I raise a glass to you for doing it. Cheers!!

Not really. There isn't much debris flying around in that part of the engine bay. Running without covers probably shortens the life of things a little bit, but it makes replacing them a breeze. The last EA82-powered vehicle I owned blew a belt on my way to sell it (idler seized....). Once I got the parts (I had a belt....but no pulley), it only took me 15 minutes to get the car back on the road.

green wagon? Mine? I think I'm the only one that posted a picture... Last number in the tire size, is wheel size. So those are 15" Pug Alloy wheels. I looked at tire availability, and with that in mind, I'd run 205/50r15 if I did it again.