Numbchux

The new studs in a 6-lug conversion are probably weaker than the originals But there are more of them. You still have 2 in their original place, and you're replacing 2 with 4, spreading out the load that much more. I don't believe for a second that that will be on the list of weak links in a lifted subaru. Also, the whole point of using 6-lug wheels is to open up your wheel options. I own 5 sets of 6-lug wheels between my Brat and 4Runner. None of them could be redrilled to 4-lug.

I looked rather extensively into doing a Subaru swap into a 914. My uncle has one, and about the time that my XT6 was crashed his 1.8 was giving him problems (ended up being a failed cam). Anyway, he ended up getting a genuine 914 2.0, and I ended up not getting anything from the woman who wrecked my car, so it didn't happen. BUT, at the time, there was a guy on 914world making adapters from 25-spline subaru transmissions to the stock 914 flange. This means any FWD transmission that was behind a 2.2 would be a perfect match. I was planning to use a modified 2.2, but a 3.0 or 3.3 would be sweet. There's a local guy who I've met a couple times here that has a 914 with a Euro 928 engine in it.....absolutely awesome.

The guy in Colorado with the EJ swap and 4.111 D/R Trans that was built years ago (I forget his screen name...) had a Forester 5th in it. Not sure if it was phase 2, but it almost had to be.

You say that....but I bet there wouldn't be a single who would pay fair value for a long travel suspension setup for an old gen subaru A similar performing kit from Total Chaos for an '86-95 Toyota truck/4Runner costs about $2k. And that's just upper and lower A-arms and hardware: This would require custom knuckles and engine crossmember too, at the very least. That said, I think it's awesome. That camber change through the range of motion kind of makes me nervous, but it might still function well. I'm anxious to see how it performs, and how those front axles hold up

For the record, phase 1 and 2 gearsets are not really interchangeable. The reverse idler is a few mm further away from the shafts in a phase 2 set, and therefore the gears are slightly different. No way to safely use the phase 1 reverse gearset in a phase 2 case, or vice versa. Also, the VSS is interchangeable. If you still have your forester trans, pull the sensor out of it, and put it in the legacy trans. Done!

Good way to get someone killed. I knew a guy who was killed a few years ago when the tow point on the other vehicle let go. Pretty cool pictures. Hakkas FTW, for sure. I'm constantly shocked at how much snow my FWD Celica will plow through with Blizzak Revo1s (more of an ice tire, than deep snow), so much fun. I don't go anywhere in the winter without my gear, which includes a good well-oiled comealong, 60' of looped recovery straps, a collection of shackles (some tow points won't allow use of a nice big 10k lb one, but still better to use a small, ~5klb shackle than a hook) and a couple shovels (not to mention tools, clothes, etc.)

At the very least....post the link!

I talked for some time with the owner/builder that weekend, just days after he finished building it. Here are the stats, and more pics: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=108567

The switch in the dash is what actually redirects the vacuum to the different doors in the HVAC system. I don't think I ever owned an EA82 where all the functions worked correctly. On my last wagon, I ripped the whole thing out, replaced it with an on-off switch, and connected the vacuum lines so that it was always in heat/def.

Have you done any measuring of the engine bay? I've long wondered if a Subaru engine would fit between the frame rails of a Toyota.

Depends on your definition of "fit". By ditching the Subaru transmission layout and going to divorced tcase/front diff, then the longitudinal position of the drivetrain is no longer dependent on the location of the front axle. So you're only limited by physical dimensions. Which means you're limited by how much modification you want to do, and the details of your build. Subaru engines are very wide, so you shouldn't have any trouble with width. In the front, is really just the radiator, which can be moved forward, or moved somewhere else entirely. In the back, is the firewall. Which is just sheet metal. Behind it...HVAC....which can be modified/removed/moved/replaced. Underneath will depend entirely on your suspension/steering setup. If you were building a rock-crawler the center of gravity is a major concern, so you would want to cram all of that in the smallest vertical package you can, which would mean that some options would be easier than others. But, for a mudder, that doesn't matter as much. Pick an engine, stuff it in there as high as reasonably possible, and then see where your axles will fit best.

Those are both vacuum operated. There's a vacuum canister on the passenger side near the strut tower, there's a "T" fitting near that, with one vacuum line running to the engine. That's probably come loose.

Small update. Bought a Duralast clutch last weekend (I work at AutoZone...). It says Exedy on the disc....Sweet! It was about 1/3 the price of the Beck/Arnley unit I've used in the past and was planning on using.

Nothing specific for that vehicle Rear suspension is torsion bar, so you'll have to disable/declock those. And then fab in some sort of coilover shock like from an EA82 car. It's been done, but it's not terribly simple.

So, I almost didn't even believe you when I saw this post, as I was so sure SVXs were conical. But I looked on RockAuto, no listing for SVX lug nuts. hmmmm.... Well, I was out at the shop today pulling some more parts off our parts SVX, so I pulled a lug nut. Sure enough, shank seat, everything. Measured it at work, 18.3mm, about 2/10ths of a mm smaller, but I think that's within acceptable tolerances. Bad thing, SVX is 5-lug, which means I have 20 of these. Brat is 6-lug, so I need 24. And I can't find any aftermarket listing for them, RockAuto, Dorman catalog, or the AutoZone lookup program. Those Nissan ones would be OK, but they're a 21mm hex, and the SVX ones are 19. Don't really want to mix and match on that. Lots of guys putting different wheels on their SVXs though, might be able to get a handful of lug nuts from them. Otherwise, I'll try the dealer. Even if they're spendy, I only need 4....

19mm shank would probably be too much (I saw those in our book....). Stock is 18.5 and it's a tight fit. I appreciate your guys' help on finding a solution that would work, and keep it up! But, I'd REALLY like to hear from people who have done it. I've seen these wheels used more than a few times.... I've also considered just reaming a 60* taper into the wheels....and using subaru nuts...

Yea, that ones not available through Autozone. Rockauto has 14 of them, for $4.41 ea....

I've seen many pictures of Toyota alloy wheels on 6-lug converted subarus. What are people using for lug nuts? Toyota alloys use a mag-style lug nut (or most do, I own 2 sets). I spent about an hour of down time at work (AutoZone) today looking through the dorman catalog, looking for an option. There are a very small number of 12x1.25 lug nuts, only one with a mag-seat, and it's not available in our system. So I started looking at 12x1.5 studs (as I have 2 full sets of OEM Toyota mag nuts) to convert my brat. Couldn't find anything with a knurl that's only a bit larger, and short shoulder that was available. I can get them from rockauto (610-275) for $0.87 each. 20.88 + shipping I'm looking at aftermarket tonight. Summit Racing has some shank style 12x1.25, but the largest seat is about 17.5mm diameter, whereas the toyota lug nuts have a 18.5mm diameter seat. So that's out. Anyway, seems like converting to 12x1.5 is really the only feasible option. Just wondering what people have done...

2.5 intake manifold ports: 2.2

I've heard of people using 3 bolts, and calling it good enough. Stock XT6 uses 5 bolts, EA82 uses 4. I wasn't really comfortable with that, I cut the tabs off the GL brackets, and welded them on the XT6 brackets at the correct location. Then I just mounted the EA82 brackets onto the passenger side seat (not really an option with the driver's side as the height adjustment complicates things).

Like!!! I really want to see a subaru boxer in a yota truck engine bay (my preference would be EG33.....but EJ would do just fine)

all do-able. If you're not afraid of pulling the trans apart, swapping the low range and 5th gear are pretty easy. 4th is much more in-depth, as there's a bearing between 4th and 5th on both shafts. Also, I'm not 100% sure if the PT4WD lower gears will swap in place of FT4WD ones, I'd have to look again. FWIW. I don't believe for a second that the turbo models are any stronger, I've been in and out of many subaru 5MTs (EA82t, EA82, XT6, couple EJs), they all look identical to me. Also, you may not see an improvement in mpg with the taller gears and an EA82t. With the low compression and such, it may not have the power to maintain speed without leaning on the throttle pretty hard. The RX ratios were absolutely idiotic in my wagon behind an EJ22.....but the gains may not be much.

I got it from 1st Subaru (Now http://www.discountedsubaruparts.com ). I just pulled up the invoice email, it was the same part number posted here, and was $311 after shipping ($283 before).

I posted a part number in one of my threads....can't find it now. But the application I used was a 2004 Forester XT. But it's the same part for many models, and the part number for the older jdm 4.444 5MTs has been superseded for the FXT part #.

They almost always do stick open (or the spring wears out, and they open too soon, or don't close all the way). Someone is making a fortune off of the "Fail Safe" tstat marketing, though.