Numbchux

Well, he said he removed the axles from the transmission, and the slop is in the transmission itself, not the axles. Also, 25-spline would be an EA82 shaft, which would not be a direct fit in the hub, and would be too long. I don't think it would be possible to install it without making other modifications to prepare for that. So I would rule that out. That said, play in the stub shafts is really only possible from play in the side bearings of the front diff. This is adjustable, but will effect the gear mesh for the front ring/pinion, and should not change once set. What that means, is those bearings are likely worn out. I have not actually seen this happen (from wear, I saw it happen once in a recently rebuild one, where part of that bearing was left out....), but it seems the only way that a transmission could develop play there. I do not believe that there is any relation between the axle shafts and the issue you describe. An alignment would have to be WAAAAYYYY out of wack to put more strain on the axle. Like, crashed, bent, ruined. An OEM shaft should out-live the vehicle if the boots are replaced as soon as they leak, and the joints are properly cleaned and greased. A reman'd axle is at the mercy of the quality of it's core.....

I never actually had issues with the trailing arm. My 225s rubbed on the shock body, and my 17x8 +48s occasionally rubbed on the fender Also, are you planning on making a spacer for the other end of that piece? That would definitely be necessary to maintain the correct alignment. It's a sweet idea for sure, but I'm a little skeptical how it will work out in practice.

It's only doable with a phase 1 transmission. But why? So you'd have an EJ transmission, and everything needed to make that work AND you'd still need a bellhousing adapter and a crappy clutch.

That seems kind of extreme, but a wandering idle is frequently just a sticking PCV valve. They're cheap, and usually very easy.....I'd start with that.

I'll be using a T-leg 4EAT behind the EG33 in the race car I'm working on...... Only EJ turbos had a pull-style, and are all hydraulic. And they have very different clutch fork/pivots. Although I have now seen a pull-style clutch fork with a cable attached to it....so there's always that. Likely pretty hard pedal effort, but likely still might be better than swapping to a EJ pedals. I'd rock a late '90s EJ 5MT. Not terribly expensive, reasonably strong (if you don't drive it like a jackass, it'll hold up quite a while), push style clutch, VLSD center, common in 4.111 gears. IIRC, newer WRXs went back to a push-style clutch, so there are OEM (or equivalent) options that would hold up. Axles will still work. Front half of the driveshaft will have to be shortened a couple inches. Shift linkage would be best to be modified a bit (although I didn't in my '88 XT6, it was at a goofy angle, but it worked). No adapter plate. Probably regear the rear end. If your XT6 has a 5MT, you'll just need a Legacy center transmission crossmember and it'll all bolt right in.

Front LSD is a band-aid for the real problem. And it would have to be such a strong LSD to overcome the free-spinning front tire issue, that it would likely still cause understeer, by not letting the front tires spin at slightly different speeds. I had considered this too, back when I was running that trans, and WJM and I had a pretty lengthy discussion about how well that would work. The consensus was.....not. Certainly not enough to justify the cost of one (again, it's cheaper to do it right....VLSD center). Also: And....no. It isn't. It's a completely open center diff when unlocked. Absolutely no restriction or mechanical bias. In fact, the rear LSD means that the front is more likely to loose grip first.

Absolutely not. I've only driven one Subaru made in the last few years (well....I guess 2 counting the Scion FR-S...). But I have driven probably 20 90s EJ cars with various mods (or not), on an ice racing track. Most with dedicated snow tires. VLSD performs much better. This includes my '88 XT6, which I drove for awhile stockish (coil springs), then put EJ transmission internals. The only things that changed were slight gear ratio change and VLSD center. MASSIVE improvement!!! Then I did the EJ front knuckles....Again huge. My FWD, 1.6, Auto trans Celica is more fun to drive on the ice than any of my FT4WD Subarus were (on the same Blizzak Revo1s, which were brand-new on my loyale, and are currently on their 6th season on my Celica). And I would bet, faster. I bet the "improvement" you are feeling when locking the center diff, is the open diff sucking so bad. My experience, is while on pavement (center diff unlocked) you are at the mercy of your tires while off throttle, and then when you get on it in a tight bend (where AWD has it's advantage over 2WD) you just get one front tire spinning like mad. Aweful. In low traction racing, be it dirt or snow/ice, you have the same problem when unlocked, you have the same problem. But then when you lock the center, the EA alignment (camber, caster, ackerman) means that the front looses grip first. Only with some serious weight transfer can you get the car to rotate. And only with a rear LSD can you really hold it. The VLSD center offers just enough give to let the front tires grab on turn-in, but when you load it up, that thing grabs pretty hard. I've seen a stock 4k VLSD center diff perform in a lifted Impreza on the rocks, and was massively impressed. I am confident that it is a very strong unit when it needs to be. I plan to run a true 4WD 5MT in my '89 XT6 for RallyX, but that's mostly for the FWD setting, as I'm considering running a welded rear. I also have the EJ knuckles for camber and ackerman correction, and will be spacing the leading rods for castor correction. Also, significant weight reduction/relocation to get the balance more were it needs to be. I have said it before, and I'll say it again. I loved my FrankenWagon, but I HATED that transmission (RX FT4WD D/R).

I've put EJ center diff with EA82 internals....so the other way around would be possible. As is always the rule with Subaru transmissions, front pinion gear has to match the center diff. IMHO, it's a considerable step backwards. but each to their own.

My XT6 is a 4EAT AWD....but that page from the XT service manual refers to all XTs in '88. That includes the FWD 4EAT. Also, 4WD 3ATs are not uncommon. Any non-turbo 4WD AT EA82 would be a 3-speed. But, back on the topic. I do not have an owners manual for a 3AT FWD. I owned one, but never put fluid in it. I did take it apart, and mechanically, it's very similar to an EJ 4EAT. Where the front diff is just a diff. It makes absolutely no sense to me why it would have anything other than 80w90. What I'm saying is, I'm not 100% sure what it's supposed to be used. But I would be massively shocked if it is ATF. And honestly probably believe it until I see the page in the owners manual that says so

I have always used 80w90 in the front diff. Here's a quick look at the '88 XT FSM. In the capacities, in lists Auto trans fluid, and AT differential gear oil. And then in fluid types it says differential gear oil should be API GL-5... Now, that is definitely for a 4EAT. So it's possible that the 3AT is different. But it's the same idea, front diff is just a differential and ring and pinion.....it should get Gear oil just like the rear diff or 5MT.

Will wasn't the first to say it. I just want to make sure you are aware. Getting an EA82 clutch to hold up to EZ torque is likely going to cost more than swapping to an EJ transmission AND clutch

Spec used to list clutches for EA82 vehicles. Never heard of anyone using one. Or custom. Either way, get the vaseline and bend over.

Here's his build thread. Using one of Bill Hinchers bellhousings to a Toyota transmission: http://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/finally-my-build-thread-some-weird-crap-here-938042/

I have LED flashers from here on my Celica and 4Runner. In fact, I buy most of my LED lighting from here: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

Yea, there was a guy a few years ago in a similar situation. Couple cars, one with a good body (non-turbo) and the other a good (turbo) motor. He ignored many warnings of the difficulties he would face. IIRC both cars ended up getting scrapped. It's been a good year. Pretty nasty cold snap (20 below daytime temps for a few days), but other than that, pretty nice. Got a bunch of snow on the ground. Been a few dry years....so it's good to see some snow.

AFAIK, it will be as much work as an EJ22 swap, for similar power and a huge step backwards in reliability. Wiring will have to be modified (or pull the dash and swap the whole harness over). Engine crossmember has to be swapped, as there is a notch for the up-pipe. Gas tank and fuel pump will be fine (assuming the '87 is fuel-injected), for either swap. That is crazy low miles, but I would compare that (in terms of cost of maintaining it) to an EJ22e with 150k miles. In fact, that's almost too low, as it's been sitting for so long over the last 20 years, that everything rubber in or near that car will likely be dry rotted. Depending on your local market, I bet you can find a '90s Legacy with a 2.2 and some other issue (rust, crash, transmission, etc.) for a similar price that would be a much better candidate. Depending on the condition of the body and such, swapping your DR into the Loyale is a MUCH better option.

This. Autozone is just a seller. Most remanufactured parts at most parts stores are Cardone. Alternators, CV axles, Calipers, etc. etc. Autozone is obsessed with putting the "Duralast" brand on the boxes, but it's the same part inside. Also, an interesting bit about Napa. Most Napa locations are Franchises. The upside there, is local ownership, etc. But they are not as carefully regulated as many of the corporate stores. They can buy parts from other sources, and don't have the nationwide database to pull from. The location here in Duluth has started getting these really terrible knockoff rotors. All the shops (and many of the retail customers as well) know that they're junk, so they don't buy them. But they still price them out, and make the other parts places price match them.

I think it looks much better without that FMIC hanging out there. Looks awesome!! Glad to hear it's still around.

I have never owned an '87 "XT GL-10", but I have owned an '85, '86, '87, 2 '88s, and a '92 4-lug EA82s, They all had the exact same hub and bearing design. I do not believe, for one single instant, that subaru completely redesigned their 4-lug hubs to use the not-yet-in-production 5-lug axles for half a model year, and then went back. 4-lug: 5-lug:

Autozone calipers are Cardone remanufactured. Likely the exact same product you will find from any parts store, certainly as CSK. They're hit or miss. Cardone just takes the core caliper that they get back from a sale, clean them up and put some new seals in them.....if the core was in decent shape, you will get a great caliper for a great price. If the core was really chewed up, you might only get a year out of it. Should be lifetime warranty though. And Autozone has a pretty sweet system for warranties, don't have to save your receipt, don't have to worry about the information expiring. Any Autozone in the country will have a record of your purchase under your phone number, so if you should have a problem again, you can swap it out for a new one. FYI, I work at an Autozone

We checked that... It was the timing belt. Must have lined up without the slack taken up or something. All 4 cams in sync with each other, one tooth off at the crank sprocket. After a little shenanigans to get the coolant system bled....it runs great. Was supposed to be a fix n flip.....might keep it....

ummm..... yea. 0.1%.... timing was off. reassembling now

didn't have the cam pulleys off... yep, used the correct marks. but we're double checking now

code reader says the engine is turning 25 rpm..... tried unplugging the crank sensor, no change....

99 Outback SUS that I've posted about before. Bought it a couple weeks ago. Crank pulley had backed out, lots of oil everywhere. But it ran. Pulled it out, did a mild reseal (pulled the valve covers off to find the heads have been recently hot tanked, so we didn't do head gaskets). The crank snout was so screwed up, we ruined the tone ring on the sprocket getting it off. A friend had a brand new one he bought for a 01 RS, so we used that. We just put everything together, and went to start it up, and it cranks a few times, catches, then backfires through the intake, puff of exhaust out of the airbox and everything. I'm 99.9% sure we got the timing right with the new belt. Everything appears to be hooked up. Any ideas? is there a chance that the tone ring on this sprocket is slightly different?