Numbchux

My XT6 is a 4EAT AWD....but that page from the XT service manual refers to all XTs in '88. That includes the FWD 4EAT. Also, 4WD 3ATs are not uncommon. Any non-turbo 4WD AT EA82 would be a 3-speed. But, back on the topic. I do not have an owners manual for a 3AT FWD. I owned one, but never put fluid in it. I did take it apart, and mechanically, it's very similar to an EJ 4EAT. Where the front diff is just a diff. It makes absolutely no sense to me why it would have anything other than 80w90. What I'm saying is, I'm not 100% sure what it's supposed to be used. But I would be massively shocked if it is ATF. And honestly probably believe it until I see the page in the owners manual that says so

I have always used 80w90 in the front diff. Here's a quick look at the '88 XT FSM. In the capacities, in lists Auto trans fluid, and AT differential gear oil. And then in fluid types it says differential gear oil should be API GL-5... Now, that is definitely for a 4EAT. So it's possible that the 3AT is different. But it's the same idea, front diff is just a differential and ring and pinion.....it should get Gear oil just like the rear diff or 5MT.

Will wasn't the first to say it. I just want to make sure you are aware. Getting an EA82 clutch to hold up to EZ torque is likely going to cost more than swapping to an EJ transmission AND clutch

Spec used to list clutches for EA82 vehicles. Never heard of anyone using one. Or custom. Either way, get the vaseline and bend over.

Here's his build thread. Using one of Bill Hinchers bellhousings to a Toyota transmission: http://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/finally-my-build-thread-some-weird-crap-here-938042/

I have LED flashers from here on my Celica and 4Runner. In fact, I buy most of my LED lighting from here: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

Yea, there was a guy a few years ago in a similar situation. Couple cars, one with a good body (non-turbo) and the other a good (turbo) motor. He ignored many warnings of the difficulties he would face. IIRC both cars ended up getting scrapped. It's been a good year. Pretty nasty cold snap (20 below daytime temps for a few days), but other than that, pretty nice. Got a bunch of snow on the ground. Been a few dry years....so it's good to see some snow.

AFAIK, it will be as much work as an EJ22 swap, for similar power and a huge step backwards in reliability. Wiring will have to be modified (or pull the dash and swap the whole harness over). Engine crossmember has to be swapped, as there is a notch for the up-pipe. Gas tank and fuel pump will be fine (assuming the '87 is fuel-injected), for either swap. That is crazy low miles, but I would compare that (in terms of cost of maintaining it) to an EJ22e with 150k miles. In fact, that's almost too low, as it's been sitting for so long over the last 20 years, that everything rubber in or near that car will likely be dry rotted. Depending on your local market, I bet you can find a '90s Legacy with a 2.2 and some other issue (rust, crash, transmission, etc.) for a similar price that would be a much better candidate. Depending on the condition of the body and such, swapping your DR into the Loyale is a MUCH better option.

This. Autozone is just a seller. Most remanufactured parts at most parts stores are Cardone. Alternators, CV axles, Calipers, etc. etc. Autozone is obsessed with putting the "Duralast" brand on the boxes, but it's the same part inside. Also, an interesting bit about Napa. Most Napa locations are Franchises. The upside there, is local ownership, etc. But they are not as carefully regulated as many of the corporate stores. They can buy parts from other sources, and don't have the nationwide database to pull from. The location here in Duluth has started getting these really terrible knockoff rotors. All the shops (and many of the retail customers as well) know that they're junk, so they don't buy them. But they still price them out, and make the other parts places price match them.

I think it looks much better without that FMIC hanging out there. Looks awesome!! Glad to hear it's still around.

I have never owned an '87 "XT GL-10", but I have owned an '85, '86, '87, 2 '88s, and a '92 4-lug EA82s, They all had the exact same hub and bearing design. I do not believe, for one single instant, that subaru completely redesigned their 4-lug hubs to use the not-yet-in-production 5-lug axles for half a model year, and then went back. 4-lug: 5-lug:

Autozone calipers are Cardone remanufactured. Likely the exact same product you will find from any parts store, certainly as CSK. They're hit or miss. Cardone just takes the core caliper that they get back from a sale, clean them up and put some new seals in them.....if the core was in decent shape, you will get a great caliper for a great price. If the core was really chewed up, you might only get a year out of it. Should be lifetime warranty though. And Autozone has a pretty sweet system for warranties, don't have to save your receipt, don't have to worry about the information expiring. Any Autozone in the country will have a record of your purchase under your phone number, so if you should have a problem again, you can swap it out for a new one. FYI, I work at an Autozone

We checked that... It was the timing belt. Must have lined up without the slack taken up or something. All 4 cams in sync with each other, one tooth off at the crank sprocket. After a little shenanigans to get the coolant system bled....it runs great. Was supposed to be a fix n flip.....might keep it....

ummm..... yea. 0.1%.... timing was off. reassembling now

didn't have the cam pulleys off... yep, used the correct marks. but we're double checking now

code reader says the engine is turning 25 rpm..... tried unplugging the crank sensor, no change....

99 Outback SUS that I've posted about before. Bought it a couple weeks ago. Crank pulley had backed out, lots of oil everywhere. But it ran. Pulled it out, did a mild reseal (pulled the valve covers off to find the heads have been recently hot tanked, so we didn't do head gaskets). The crank snout was so screwed up, we ruined the tone ring on the sprocket getting it off. A friend had a brand new one he bought for a 01 RS, so we used that. We just put everything together, and went to start it up, and it cranks a few times, catches, then backfires through the intake, puff of exhaust out of the airbox and everything. I'm 99.9% sure we got the timing right with the new belt. Everything appears to be hooked up. Any ideas? is there a chance that the tone ring on this sprocket is slightly different?

You have to go into a situation like that, assuming that the engine is junk. I bought my 4runner with similar hopes, and lost. But, I paid about that much, for a truck with 130k on it, and almost zero rust (I live in the rust belt.....that's huge). So the shell was worth that much. If it were the 4.0, I'd be more tempted. A little more robust, and easier to work on. "Very good winter tires" are cooper weathermasters (meh, in my experience), and look to be at least half worn. They're worth about a hundred bucks. Which makes me question "very clean interior and very good exterior" Consider what it's worth (to you) with a good engine, how much it'll cost you to replace the engine, a little simple arithmetic, and you have your price. My math comes up with considerably less than 1300.

You are mistaken, sir. 4-lug axles and 5-lug axle outers are completely different animals.

I've used many different combinations. I used the Uncle Scotty's Cocktail in 2 transmissions...... never again. Part of that is Red Line lightweight shockproof additive, which is the component that is too thin to lubricate the bearings in a Subaru transmission. Does that mean all Red Line products are junk? No, probably not, but it's left a pretty sour taste in my mouth. I like Valvoline products in general, and have used straight Valv 80-90. Pretty happy with it's lubricating quality, but made winter shifting very difficult. Similar with Castrol HypoyC. I've used Rislone engine additive with the above 2 as a cleaning agent. It's pretty incredible. When we got my dad's old '94 LGT, you could not get it to engage 2nd. A fluid change with a quart of rislone, and it shifted like new again. After 6 months or so, switched to the cocktail which quickly resulted in bearing noise, then switched to straight gear oil, and got another 100k miles before a bearing finally let loose. But.....nothing but Subaru Extra-S for my Subaru manual transmissions now. Great shifting, happy bearings, good for LSDs (viscous, helical, and clutch).

I had a thought today, which pertained to your build, and I'm curious what you're going to do about it. Heater hoses.....sounds simple enough :-p Well, Toyota's actually have a valve in the heater hose that adjusts the flow through the core, and that is how they adjust the temperature. Subarus redirect the air flow around the core. Which means that there is always coolant going through those lines. I've heard of many a Subaru-powered buggy, where they capped off those lines, and then had overheating issues, because the tstat is located at the bottom of the engine, without that circulation, it doesn't get hot correctly, and doesn't open. Plans? Bypass? F*** the heater? Tstat relocation? Something else awesome?

Yea, bought this car with the plan of putting the 251 in it. Less than 12 hours after taking delivery, a good friend of mine (and owner of the shop where 2 of my cars live) blew up the 251 in his '01 Outback. So we had to make a quick decision.

EJ251 is already in it's new home.....which is not this car. I have a local feeler out for a good used crank, but we'll be ordering all the gaskets that we need to tonight or tomorrow, and hopefully have this thing ready for a new home by this time next week.

Yep. there's a little cap in the bottom of the axle cup. And if you have the E10 bit required, you can actually remove the stub with the cup still attached. Unbolting the outer race for the carrier bearing (5 bolts on the case) will do you nothing. Go ahead and put those back in.

He did. This picture, already in this thread: was his. The blue wagon in the background was mine at the time, and his brat can be seen in the foreground.