Numbchux

EZ30R is not a real engine code. The model is called a 3.0R, but the engine code is EZ30DR.

What? No, not at all. EZ30D has single exhaust ports. EZ30DR has a unique manifold. Unique, as in not the same as anything else. The flange is the same as the EG33. So SVX stuff will physically bolt to the engine, but I don't know about how it would fit in comparison to the rest of the car (EZ series is much smaller, so the flanges might be further back in relation to the crossmember, transmission, etc.)

EZ30DR has a unique exhaust header. I know the EG33 has the same flange on the engine, but I don't know if SVX exhaust would work.

Typically, a noise that only happens when turning one direction is a wheel bearing. IIRC it's the outer side that makes the noise (in this case, right turns = left side). So I would start by jacking the car up, and see if there's any play in the bearing (the wheel would wiggle in any direction, not just one).

I have had AAA for years. I really like it, and use it fairly regularly. The basic package covers hookup and the first 5 miles of a tow, which is usually enough to get you to a repair shop, but if you want to bring it home, or specify exactly where it's going, it's worth bumping up to a higher package for the 100 mile tow.

Sounds like manufacturer defect. I haven't been terribly impressed with Gabriels as far as longevity is concerned.

So, since my last update. I was going to get supplies for the camping trip the night before I was planning on leaving, and it stalled again. Tried a bunch of things to get it running again, and it randomly started working just long enough to get it home. So I parked it, took insurance off it, and didn't really do much all winter. I did do some planning. I bought a USB-ALDL cable to plug my laptop into the ECU, so I could datalog with TunerPro RT, and maybe catch it acting up. I've been driving it to work all week this week, and yesterday, I went to head home for lunch, and it wouldn't start. I scoured through parameters on the computer, and couldn't find much more out. I confirmed my suspicion that it was not getting fuel, but couldn't find an indication on why. So I ran inside (I work at AutoZone) and grabbed our loaner fuel pressure tester. Sure enough, 45 psi, which is not enough to open the poppet valves in the spider injector. After playing with things, and cycling the pump a bunch, all of a sudden it jumped up to 55, and the truck fired right up. The pressure did not drop at all when the pump was off....so it had to be the pump. The pump I was running was a universal inline rated for 65 psi that I got on Summit Racing, that I then mounted in-tank. I had a makeshift strainer on there, but when I pulled the pump out yesterday, the strainer was floating in the tank. So I bought a new Airtex pump designed for the blazer (rated for 90 psi!!) after lunch yesterday, and put it in. Along with it's matching strainer. I also noticed that my VSS calibration (I just hooked the Toyota signal wire from the dash to the Chevy ECU) is off. The ECU thinks I'm going almost exactly double what the dash indicates. So I need to address that.... Hoping to get it on the trails in less than 2 weeks!!!

Excellent! And you didn't need to buy a new ECU!

Yea. Completely not applicable. The 5-speed holds up pretty well in the lighter GC chassis behind an H6. It'll be fine in a 914. Also, 2WD probably (depending on tires) means the traction will give out before the trans

ECU signal is indeed a ground and yes, it definitely could be a 2 write job

The stock EA82 electric fan has a power relay, and then the ground wire for the fan runs directly through the thermoswitch. I don't think there's an easy way to wire that in. But yea, you could definitely just grab a generic relay, and hook the control circuit to power on one side and the other side to the ECU signal. It wouldn't have any idea if the switched circuit was hooked up to anything (if you don't want it to).

Nice. I know I've had to add them before on some later ones, but I thought I'd seen some earlier (96-97) that had the pin. But it sounds like you've got it all sorted out, as far as that's concerned. Changing the ECU to think it's an MT will change some of the maps for when the IAC opens and such, but AFAIK it doesn't effect how it operates, so it shouldn't require any re-wiring or anything. So yea, clear the code, clean the valve up, and see if it happens again. It may have just been a coincidence.

That is only for pull-style clutches. Which only came on turbo engines. If you have the nuts off the motor mounts, they will just lift up out of the crossmember. Support the transmission with a jack so the engine can slide off without binding on the studs on the bottom of the bellhousing. And yea, if it's an automatic, remove the 4 bolts that hold the flex plate and torque converter together. There's an access hole on the top of the engine side, just to the passenger side of the throttle body.

Kind of an uninformed, wongleflute response. Napa stores are almost all franchises, and the individual franchise owner is allowed a lot of freedom in where they get their parts. So there's very little consistency from one location to the next. Duralast is not a manufacturer of anything, just a brand. You'll find the same parts in those boxes that you'll find at any other major parts store. Like I said, I got a clutch kit for my Brat ($100, and I got an employee discount off that!), that's an Exedy. The EJ clutch that we stock is a Valeo. I've seen suspension parts that say Moog on them (even though Moog is supposed to be an Advance auto exclusive). Almost anything remanufactured is Cardone. Batteries are Johnson controls. Electrical components are Wells. etc. etc. etc. And, regardless of where you go, it really matters who's standing behind the counter. The store I work with has generally an awesome crew, lots of knowledge. Except one guy....who thinks he knows a lot more than he does, and makes some assumptions when he's looking up parts. Anyway. Torxxx, AFAIK all legacies are the same wheelbase. I did quite a bit of research on them when I did my swap, but it's possible I missed that. If the wheelbase is in fact 2" longer, than the overall length will be right, just have to move the carrier bearing. If you do decide to go custom with your kit, there's a local company here in Duluth called Lakehead Clutch. They do some really awesome work, and I could hand-deliver an XT6 core for them to rebuild for more holding force.

The connector diagram on an ECU pinout is looking at the ECU connector. And on the wiring diagram, it's looking at the connector on the harness. So they're mirrored from each other. The wire that goes through the inhibitor switch or starter interlock relay is the starter signal, not the identifier. I looked at a '97 diagram, and that's on pin 86, which matches the pinout posted in the other thread. So that pinout was NOT for a '95. Edit: I just did some more digging. I don't have a good pinout for a 95, but I did a little copy/paste of that pin from the diagrams from a 97 and 95 Legacy. Pin 81 is correct for a 96-99, but for a 95, you need pin 50. Sorry I didn't catch this sooner!

I don't think there's a driveshaft that will work without modification. The PT4WD trans is shorter than the EJ AWD one. I did quite a bit of hunting, and could not find a bolt-in driveshaft for an EJ trans in my XT6, had to take 2" out of the stock EA 5MT shaft. So you will likely have to add 2" to the shaft that matches your chassis. 4. Making tranny x-member. I was thinking of just cutting down the EA mount and rewelding the ends on to adapt to my EJ lift. Or is there an easier way? The EA mounts will line right up with the front piece of an EJ 3-piece crossmember. Just drill holes in it, done. 5. Shift linkage - I gotta pull the linkage today when I get to the shop, wondering if the extra shifter will interfere with a possible dual ebrake setup for the rear? There's probably a way to do it. I had dual ebrakes in my blue '88, but I also didn't have a center console... I think thats it for now, I gotta try and find a dry flat spot in my yard to get my car jacked up and get the AWD tranny out.. that should be fun considering we have snow in the forcast for the next week... Yep, they're still talking about snow over here too. EDIT: Trying to fix the formatting. The new forum software is just ignoring the /quote tags I put in the middle of the post, and adding a bunch at the end....ugh

Yep, red with a yellow stripe. Stepped up to a much larger wire. That's definitely the starter signal. Which matches my '95 diagrams. I'll do some more digging tonight and see if I can find an actual '95 pinout for you.

Yea, there's something goofy going on with the diagrams that have been posted, as they do not match some of what I have (I cannot find the '95 pinout that I've used before, but I have some very reliable diagrams). My diagrams suggest that pin #81 is the starter signal. Which would explain why that screwed up your cold starting. But the diagrams don't list the identification pin. Also, the neutral switch is the same wire for AT/MT. So the fact that that wire wasn't there, leads me to believe that the pinout doesn't match your harness. What color was the wire you found at #81?

He said that the ones he made don't bolt up to standard EJ struts. So it would have to include the modified strut cartridges, so now you're talking about getting STi rear strut "cores". That just sounds like a nightmare for everyone involved.

EA82 single-core radiator is absolutely plenty as long as it's in decent shape.

This. For a daily driver, IMHO a BE legacy is about as good as it gets. But it's very hard to get anything with an EJ in it down to the weight that an EA starts at. Sure you add some with an EJ swap...but not that much.

Are those struts actually longer? It looks to me like you're just trading a block at the top for a block at the bottom (not that that's a bad thing). I'm just looking at the distance between the bottom of the strut cartridge and the CV.....I think you're gaining at least 2 or 3" in ride height there.

I've had a 100% failure rate within a year on remanufactured axles. Probably a dozen of them. Many in stock vehicles.

I've seen a few Porsche 914s with ER27s (mid engine, radiator in the front....) with just the stock water pump....

I've been curious about those ever since I started at AutoZone about 8 months ago. They look really well made. But only time will tell. Most of the cardone reman ones that I've bought lasted at least a few months before showing signs of failure. But most failed within a year or so.....