Numbchux

I don't think there's a driveshaft that will work without modification. The PT4WD trans is shorter than the EJ AWD one. I did quite a bit of hunting, and could not find a bolt-in driveshaft for an EJ trans in my XT6, had to take 2" out of the stock EA 5MT shaft. So you will likely have to add 2" to the shaft that matches your chassis. 4. Making tranny x-member. I was thinking of just cutting down the EA mount and rewelding the ends on to adapt to my EJ lift. Or is there an easier way? The EA mounts will line right up with the front piece of an EJ 3-piece crossmember. Just drill holes in it, done. 5. Shift linkage - I gotta pull the linkage today when I get to the shop, wondering if the extra shifter will interfere with a possible dual ebrake setup for the rear? There's probably a way to do it. I had dual ebrakes in my blue '88, but I also didn't have a center console... I think thats it for now, I gotta try and find a dry flat spot in my yard to get my car jacked up and get the AWD tranny out.. that should be fun considering we have snow in the forcast for the next week... Yep, they're still talking about snow over here too. EDIT: Trying to fix the formatting. The new forum software is just ignoring the /quote tags I put in the middle of the post, and adding a bunch at the end....ugh

Yep, red with a yellow stripe. Stepped up to a much larger wire. That's definitely the starter signal. Which matches my '95 diagrams. I'll do some more digging tonight and see if I can find an actual '95 pinout for you.

Yea, there's something goofy going on with the diagrams that have been posted, as they do not match some of what I have (I cannot find the '95 pinout that I've used before, but I have some very reliable diagrams). My diagrams suggest that pin #81 is the starter signal. Which would explain why that screwed up your cold starting. But the diagrams don't list the identification pin. Also, the neutral switch is the same wire for AT/MT. So the fact that that wire wasn't there, leads me to believe that the pinout doesn't match your harness. What color was the wire you found at #81?

He said that the ones he made don't bolt up to standard EJ struts. So it would have to include the modified strut cartridges, so now you're talking about getting STi rear strut "cores". That just sounds like a nightmare for everyone involved.

EA82 single-core radiator is absolutely plenty as long as it's in decent shape.

This. For a daily driver, IMHO a BE legacy is about as good as it gets. But it's very hard to get anything with an EJ in it down to the weight that an EA starts at. Sure you add some with an EJ swap...but not that much.

Are those struts actually longer? It looks to me like you're just trading a block at the top for a block at the bottom (not that that's a bad thing). I'm just looking at the distance between the bottom of the strut cartridge and the CV.....I think you're gaining at least 2 or 3" in ride height there.

I've had a 100% failure rate within a year on remanufactured axles. Probably a dozen of them. Many in stock vehicles.

I've seen a few Porsche 914s with ER27s (mid engine, radiator in the front....) with just the stock water pump....

I've been curious about those ever since I started at AutoZone about 8 months ago. They look really well made. But only time will tell. Most of the cardone reman ones that I've bought lasted at least a few months before showing signs of failure. But most failed within a year or so.....

I pity the axles that will end up in there. Amazing work man. I love it!

Holy chit. Adapters for EJ struts on EA knuckles? That's awesome!!

No, the computer will know that the sensor reading is too low, and still throw a code. It's intentionally very hard to trick.

The story is told pretty well in the video....but for a little more information, almost 2 years ago our rally car (2004 Subaru WRX STi) was wrecked. We pulled it into the garage, and ripped off all the parts. Then we bought a $1500 '96 impreza, drove it into the garage (under it's own power), stripped it down to a bare chassis, built a roll cage, and installed most of the parts from the old car (and some new ones). The whole time, we had a camera up on the shelf in the garage taking a picture every minute or so. Well, it was finally compiled into a time lapse video. Unfortunately, once the roll cage was built and the chassis went off for powdercoat, we didn't keep up with the time lapse, so it turns into a slideshow of assembly photos, but still pretty sweet. (Be sure to click through to Youtube, this video is available in full 1080 HD) If you're looking for more, photo gallery of the whole build: http://www.sieglerphoto.com/Cars/171-V20-build/17244598_5RjBZH#!i=1308953210&k=mMCq3Lp

Yep, pretty common. Rat rods, rock crawlers (great for rear steering), etc.

USDM as well, actually. Also OBXT and Baja XT. Quite sure I posted it in my build thread for my Brat

Not all 2.2/4EAT combos had an EGR.....so make extra sure you get one with.

Those will swap just fine. Only different EJ axles were 93-94 Impreza FWD 5MTs, they had a different spline count on the inner joint, and 02+ impreza sedans have a wider track, so longer shafts. And sometime around 2005 they went to male splines on the axles instead of female. But anything else should work.

Yep, crazy powerful tool. I have a few. Beats the hell out of a test light!

internal regulator can drain the battery, but it usually charges at like 18v too. This is the right idea, but the correct way to do it is get a multimeter, and connect it between the negative battery post and disconnected terminal to actually get an amperage number on the draw, and not just eyeballing a spark.

It can be done without pulling the hub. I've done stock length studs many times, I bet longer ones would work. Maybe not the crazy long ARP studs... Look into the H&R spacers, I'm running a pair of 15mm ones on the back of my Celica. They came with studs that are the perfect size, and they're very nice hub-centric spacers.

Not going to find much. Most vehicles that run 5x100 run higher than that. But, some 10-15mm spacers should get you right in the ballpark.

No. MTs and ATs use very different internals. Not (easily) swappable. I think it's been done, but for that combo, it's much cheaper just to buy a new gearset (Mine was only a couple hundred dollars right from a Subaru dealership)

external trans filter is a spin-on just like an oil filter, on the driver's side. I don't think the electronics changed. But, most importantly: The only things I can think of that are different between a phase I and II are the 8 bolt bellhousing, #5 thrust bearing, and timing belt tensioner. If you put a phase 1 motor in there, the tensioner and thrust bearing don't matter at all. The bellhousing just means you won't use some of the holes in the transmission bellhousing (a bit of an issue with a manual, as one of those bolts holds the starter on, but as I mentioned, not so with an auto).

Alright, fair enough. With those symptoms, I would say it's probably got blown gaskets. It might be repairable, but for personal use, it's probably a prime candidate for a 2.2 swap. I'd still say a little time into further diagnosing the 2.5 is probably not wasted, though. If you don't feel like buying one, you can rent OBD readers, most places don't want it leaving the premises, so you may want to wait until the motor is fixed. The cruise control is another system that uses the VSS. So if that works, the sensor works....