Numbchux

I can offer a little insight. First off, '99 was a mid-year change for Phase II. I have a '99 SUS that's Phase II engine and transmission. That doesn't really change almost anything as far as swapping in a 2.2 is concerned. Especially if it's an automatic (as the Phase II 8-bolt 4EAT bellhousing still has a stud for the lower starter bolt). I believe the change was at the same time, which would mean that a quick glance at the transmission would answer that question. External filter = phase II. Get a code reader on that. If the VSS isn't working, it should be throwing a CEL (and probably an AT, if applicable) code. These systems all use the same sensor. So if the ECU knows that the vehicle is moving, and the gauge doesn't, than it's the gauge or wiring. Oil contamination can happen from a few things. I wouldn't look into replacing the engine unless you know this ones bad. The car will have more value (to most people) without an engine swap done to it, and it may be a cheap fix. Do a compression and leakdown test

Just a clarification. '95 2.2 Imprezas were OBD II.

Am I missing something?

They have their ups and downs. Just speaking mechanically (they would come with different electronics, which could be interchanged), the dual-port ones have hydraulic lash adjuster, where the single port ones are solid. Most single port engines are an interference engine, but that also comes with a slight (.2, IIRC) bump in compression and power. Borla (and knockoff) headers are readily available for dual port, not almost at all for single port.

Yea, it really is pretty simple with EA82s, especially with manual transmissions. Turbo = 25 spline, non = 23. I think there is some combination of the older 3-speed auto and turbo that is an exception to that (23 spline), but for probably 99% of the EA82s out there, that's true.

No. Use the flexplate that is bolted to your 2.5 If you're concerned about having a functional Check Engine Light (I suspect you are since it says you are in CA), you'll have to find a 2.2 (or at least 2.2 intake manifold) with an EGR. These are not terribly common. The one I did doesn't have one, and throws a code for it. Runs beautifully, but would not pass any sort of inspection, I'm sure.

No. It's a FWD (FRONT Wheel Drive) "fuse" (it's not actually a fuse, in that it protects a circuit, just an easy way to disable the center "diff" in case of a flat tire). I don't know anything about A/C. My A/C diagnostic procedure is: Does it work? -> No -> Rip as much out as possible

Yes Maybe, depends on the 2.2. I used a '94, and had to swap the engine harness and throttle body across. Manifold will not work on any 2.2. Maybe. '96+ 2.2s had single port exhaust. So if you use one of those engines, you'll need the exhaust manifold to match

This. Being that it has a shifter rod through the center diff housing, it has to be one of 2 things (EJ D/R AWD were cable shifted). Either it's an 87-89 RX trans, in which case it will have the hi-lo shifter rod on the back, AND the center diff lock lever on the right side of the center diff housing (stock it's hooked up to a cable, which runs to a vacuum diaphragm on the left side of the trans above the CV axle, which had vacuum lines going to solenoids on the left front strut tower). Or it's a part-time 4WD case, in which case it will not have that center diff lock mechanism, and it will have a FWD mode.

I don't remember there being a write-up. I just bolted in another handle, and hooked up the 2 cables to the separate handles. Done.

Fabricate? There are many sources for bolt-on skidplates for the EJ cars. You can get a brand-new 1/8" aluminum plate from primitive racing for $199, and they've been out long enough that they can be found used for much less. I'd have one if I owned an EJ. Wish I could find one for my Celica.

Not any more than any other lifted EA.

Wow, come on guys. Some of the responses here are embarrassing. Let's think about this, she said that he has done an oil change before, so he probably didn't mistake the radiator petcock for an oil drain plug. Also the power steering system would not have a drain plug. There would be three drain plugs on that vehicle that could be the oil. One is correct, one is front differential, and the third is transmission. Oil is.... well... oil. That's easy. Transmission fluid should indeed be red. Front differential is gear oil, which isn't exactly green, more of a bronze, but I suppose in the right light might look greenish. I'm not sure about new cars, but 10 years ago, the owners manual would have quite a bit of information on what fluids to use, where they come out, and where to fill them. I recommend starting there to track down exactly what fluid was drained and where it was added. What worries me, is the idea that he may have added enough foreign fluid to the transmission to overflow it, that would require a lot. First off, if that is the case, DO NOT start the vehicle, as soon as the engine is running, the pump will circulate that through the transmission, and you will probably never get it all out. I would drain and fill (with new fluid) at least twice before attempting to start it, and then I would go directly to a reputable transmission shop to have them flush the system as well.

Yea, the snow can pack in there and cause it to jump. I've seen it happen before on vehicles without covers. I'm not sure if it puts so much drag on things that it causes it to jump, or the moisture causes it to slip. But more often then not, I've seen it where it seems that it jumps mostly from the crank pulley (the cams are pretty close to the same degree off), which leads me to believe that it's maybe pushing the tensioner up and it's jumping on the crank sprocket because that is so much smaller. My friend's wife had a '99 2.5RS that they had to do some engine work on it when they got it, the covers all disintegrated upon removal, so he didn't bother putting them back on. She hit a snow drift coming home, and it starting running like garbage, come to find the crank had jumped about 2 teeth. Cams perfectly in time with each other. Thank goodness it only jumped a little bit, so it didn't damage the valves. His solution was to put a Primitive Racing skidplate on it. Which worked very well. That seals off the engine bay very well.

You've never owned an EA82, have you?

That wouldn't have happened with a full-width skidplate Running without belt covers will always mean they will fail sooner. But it means that when they fail, it will be a breeze to change them. I'm a huge advocate of running without covers on EA82s, as those seem to have random tbelt failures regardless of condition or maintenence. But keep a basic socket set, both belts, and all 3 pulleys in the car, and you can be on your way in 15 minutes or so. The EJs...not so much. They don't have the tbelt problems. The outer covers frequently do not come off in one piece, but at least leave the center cover on to protect your tensioner and pulleys. And NEVER do it on an interference engine. Too much at risk.

There are good links posted in numerous places around the site, have a look around, you'll find it.

Nope. Fronts are interchangeable.

Yea, the USDM Dual Ranges are Part-time 4WD. True 4WD, which can't be used on the street, so they have a FWD setting.

He just said "turbo motors".....could be anything. I suppose since this is a Subaru board, we could probably assume he's talking about a subaru motor. So, with the amount of information in the question, I'm going with NorthWet. Yes it's possible, and yes something will have to be modified.

The rest of the world got dual-range AWD transmissions in basically every model Subaru, so I suspect the post you're thinking of was from another part of the world.

IMO, the way to do lift blocks: and installed on my Brat: That said, I don't regret buying my first lift kit. It was REALLY nice having everything in a box, and instructions on how to do it. I just had to do a little figuring with radiator hoses.

Look at the last couple posts before yours. The custom one was prohibitively expensive so he bought a universal fuel cell. Your options are: repair yours used custom universal My Brat has a new OEM EA81 hatch tank in it (don't think it's still available, it was purchased many years ago), and has a plate to take up the extra space where it should mount.

An engine needs spark, fuel, and compression to run. You need to confirm 100% that you have strong spark at the right time. The way to check that is starting fluid. If you don't have any, spend the $3ish on a can. If you're worried about it being flooded out, disconnect the fuel pump (fuse). If it runs on starting fluid, you have a fuel issue. If not, you have a spark issue.

posted right above you, 2 years ago: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/114409-reserved-thread-for-endwrench-articles/?do=findComment&comment=970422