Numbchux

This. Being that it has a shifter rod through the center diff housing, it has to be one of 2 things (EJ D/R AWD were cable shifted). Either it's an 87-89 RX trans, in which case it will have the hi-lo shifter rod on the back, AND the center diff lock lever on the right side of the center diff housing (stock it's hooked up to a cable, which runs to a vacuum diaphragm on the left side of the trans above the CV axle, which had vacuum lines going to solenoids on the left front strut tower). Or it's a part-time 4WD case, in which case it will not have that center diff lock mechanism, and it will have a FWD mode.

I don't remember there being a write-up. I just bolted in another handle, and hooked up the 2 cables to the separate handles. Done.

Fabricate? There are many sources for bolt-on skidplates for the EJ cars. You can get a brand-new 1/8" aluminum plate from primitive racing for $199, and they've been out long enough that they can be found used for much less. I'd have one if I owned an EJ. Wish I could find one for my Celica.

Not any more than any other lifted EA.

Wow, come on guys. Some of the responses here are embarrassing. Let's think about this, she said that he has done an oil change before, so he probably didn't mistake the radiator petcock for an oil drain plug. Also the power steering system would not have a drain plug. There would be three drain plugs on that vehicle that could be the oil. One is correct, one is front differential, and the third is transmission. Oil is.... well... oil. That's easy. Transmission fluid should indeed be red. Front differential is gear oil, which isn't exactly green, more of a bronze, but I suppose in the right light might look greenish. I'm not sure about new cars, but 10 years ago, the owners manual would have quite a bit of information on what fluids to use, where they come out, and where to fill them. I recommend starting there to track down exactly what fluid was drained and where it was added. What worries me, is the idea that he may have added enough foreign fluid to the transmission to overflow it, that would require a lot. First off, if that is the case, DO NOT start the vehicle, as soon as the engine is running, the pump will circulate that through the transmission, and you will probably never get it all out. I would drain and fill (with new fluid) at least twice before attempting to start it, and then I would go directly to a reputable transmission shop to have them flush the system as well.

Yea, the snow can pack in there and cause it to jump. I've seen it happen before on vehicles without covers. I'm not sure if it puts so much drag on things that it causes it to jump, or the moisture causes it to slip. But more often then not, I've seen it where it seems that it jumps mostly from the crank pulley (the cams are pretty close to the same degree off), which leads me to believe that it's maybe pushing the tensioner up and it's jumping on the crank sprocket because that is so much smaller. My friend's wife had a '99 2.5RS that they had to do some engine work on it when they got it, the covers all disintegrated upon removal, so he didn't bother putting them back on. She hit a snow drift coming home, and it starting running like garbage, come to find the crank had jumped about 2 teeth. Cams perfectly in time with each other. Thank goodness it only jumped a little bit, so it didn't damage the valves. His solution was to put a Primitive Racing skidplate on it. Which worked very well. That seals off the engine bay very well.

You've never owned an EA82, have you?

That wouldn't have happened with a full-width skidplate Running without belt covers will always mean they will fail sooner. But it means that when they fail, it will be a breeze to change them. I'm a huge advocate of running without covers on EA82s, as those seem to have random tbelt failures regardless of condition or maintenence. But keep a basic socket set, both belts, and all 3 pulleys in the car, and you can be on your way in 15 minutes or so. The EJs...not so much. They don't have the tbelt problems. The outer covers frequently do not come off in one piece, but at least leave the center cover on to protect your tensioner and pulleys. And NEVER do it on an interference engine. Too much at risk.

There are good links posted in numerous places around the site, have a look around, you'll find it.

Nope. Fronts are interchangeable.

Yea, the USDM Dual Ranges are Part-time 4WD. True 4WD, which can't be used on the street, so they have a FWD setting.

He just said "turbo motors".....could be anything. I suppose since this is a Subaru board, we could probably assume he's talking about a subaru motor. So, with the amount of information in the question, I'm going with NorthWet. Yes it's possible, and yes something will have to be modified.

The rest of the world got dual-range AWD transmissions in basically every model Subaru, so I suspect the post you're thinking of was from another part of the world.

IMO, the way to do lift blocks: and installed on my Brat: That said, I don't regret buying my first lift kit. It was REALLY nice having everything in a box, and instructions on how to do it. I just had to do a little figuring with radiator hoses.

Look at the last couple posts before yours. The custom one was prohibitively expensive so he bought a universal fuel cell. Your options are: repair yours used custom universal My Brat has a new OEM EA81 hatch tank in it (don't think it's still available, it was purchased many years ago), and has a plate to take up the extra space where it should mount.

An engine needs spark, fuel, and compression to run. You need to confirm 100% that you have strong spark at the right time. The way to check that is starting fluid. If you don't have any, spend the $3ish on a can. If you're worried about it being flooded out, disconnect the fuel pump (fuse). If it runs on starting fluid, you have a fuel issue. If not, you have a spark issue.

posted right above you, 2 years ago: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/114409-reserved-thread-for-endwrench-articles/?do=findComment&comment=970422

When I had my yakima rack on my EA82s, I just pulled the whole trim off. Looks fine without it.

BAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA That's awesome. I needed a laugh. By that logic, shift to 5th immediately, and stand on the throttle....give it a try for a tank and see what kind of mileage you get.

Keep in mind, your donor has an even WIDER track than his. So you will have width issues. Wheels don't come in high enough offset to use the GD suspension but keep the tires under Brat bodywork. Just for clarification, you sound like you're going to build a frame under the Brat body, and then attach the GD suspension to that. Right? You will do yourself a lot of favors by doing that. Stuffing EJ suspension under an EA body is a huge challenge at stock (or less) ride height. Especially the rear, as the suspension design is completely different. Now, I'm not going to lie to you, with the number of times I've seen these kinds of projects talked about, and even started....the odds are against you. BUT, the plan of using a custom frame to adapt the stock Brat pickup points to the GD suspension gives you a prayer.

Very cool, I've never seen a patch of frame replaced with tube like that....but I've seen the whole front clip made of tube....so I don't see why it won't work. Pretty cool idea to make a little extra clearance! And it looks like it's given you quite a bit of room where you needed it. Excellent work

Front diffs are the same for all 5MTs. So anything listed for a Subaru 5MT will work. I have a Carbonetic clutch-type (listed for an '02+ WRX) for the 5MT D/R that's going in my Brat. The Carbonetic has a very large case, and it will not clear the 1.59:1 low range gears, but it does clear the 1.19 set (RX trans), so I'll be using that. You can see the difference here, when compared to a stock, open front diff: Arrow pointing at the spot where it hits. Now it looks like most helical diffs won't have that problem. I've heard first hand reports of people using the OBX diffs without incident. Sweet write-up on improving the quality of an OBX diff: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17129 I keep seeing these pop up on Ebay, looks like an OEM JDM helical diff. Probably pretty high quality, and looks like a lot of clearance for low range gears. Used...but I'd rather use this than an OBX one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Subaru-Impreza-Front-torsen-LSD-helical-GC8-sti-wrx-diff-differential-ratio-/140930015529?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d0156129&vxp=mtr Thinking I might grab that, and build a 3.9, 1.59, PT4WD trans for my XT6 for RallyX use..... Also, AFAIK the Carbonetic is the only one that uses separate and/or OEM stubs, which is one of the reasons I chose it, so I will have 23-spline stubs in my Brat.

Yea, I looked into it quite a bit many years ago, and from what I remember, the XT6 is the same ratio as a standard XT, but the maximum steering angle was less (which probably would have been a good thing, I had an XT rack in my Loyale, and the tire rubbed on the frame rail in the front at full lock).

Did this throw a check engine light? Was the AT oil light on all the time? Did the transmission act like this consistently? I have very similar issues with a '99 Outback, shifts are kind of hard, and torque converter occasionally doesn't unlock when coming to a stop. But it only happens with the trans is cold, and only sometimes. No CEL, no AT oil light...I'm about to buy a new Duty B solenoid, assuming that it's sticking, but before I do that, I guess I'll check the TPS.

Most of your questions should be answered here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/Harness%20info.pdf That's the page I sent out with my harnesses. There's only one fuel pump power wire. The fuel pump relay should be in the harness GD gave you.