Numbchux

You've never owned an EA82, have you?

That wouldn't have happened with a full-width skidplate Running without belt covers will always mean they will fail sooner. But it means that when they fail, it will be a breeze to change them. I'm a huge advocate of running without covers on EA82s, as those seem to have random tbelt failures regardless of condition or maintenence. But keep a basic socket set, both belts, and all 3 pulleys in the car, and you can be on your way in 15 minutes or so. The EJs...not so much. They don't have the tbelt problems. The outer covers frequently do not come off in one piece, but at least leave the center cover on to protect your tensioner and pulleys. And NEVER do it on an interference engine. Too much at risk.

There are good links posted in numerous places around the site, have a look around, you'll find it.

Nope. Fronts are interchangeable.

Yea, the USDM Dual Ranges are Part-time 4WD. True 4WD, which can't be used on the street, so they have a FWD setting.

He just said "turbo motors".....could be anything. I suppose since this is a Subaru board, we could probably assume he's talking about a subaru motor. So, with the amount of information in the question, I'm going with NorthWet. Yes it's possible, and yes something will have to be modified.

The rest of the world got dual-range AWD transmissions in basically every model Subaru, so I suspect the post you're thinking of was from another part of the world.

IMO, the way to do lift blocks: and installed on my Brat: That said, I don't regret buying my first lift kit. It was REALLY nice having everything in a box, and instructions on how to do it. I just had to do a little figuring with radiator hoses.

Look at the last couple posts before yours. The custom one was prohibitively expensive so he bought a universal fuel cell. Your options are: repair yours used custom universal My Brat has a new OEM EA81 hatch tank in it (don't think it's still available, it was purchased many years ago), and has a plate to take up the extra space where it should mount.

An engine needs spark, fuel, and compression to run. You need to confirm 100% that you have strong spark at the right time. The way to check that is starting fluid. If you don't have any, spend the $3ish on a can. If you're worried about it being flooded out, disconnect the fuel pump (fuse). If it runs on starting fluid, you have a fuel issue. If not, you have a spark issue.

posted right above you, 2 years ago: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/114409-reserved-thread-for-endwrench-articles/?do=findComment&comment=970422

When I had my yakima rack on my EA82s, I just pulled the whole trim off. Looks fine without it.

BAAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA That's awesome. I needed a laugh. By that logic, shift to 5th immediately, and stand on the throttle....give it a try for a tank and see what kind of mileage you get.

Keep in mind, your donor has an even WIDER track than his. So you will have width issues. Wheels don't come in high enough offset to use the GD suspension but keep the tires under Brat bodywork. Just for clarification, you sound like you're going to build a frame under the Brat body, and then attach the GD suspension to that. Right? You will do yourself a lot of favors by doing that. Stuffing EJ suspension under an EA body is a huge challenge at stock (or less) ride height. Especially the rear, as the suspension design is completely different. Now, I'm not going to lie to you, with the number of times I've seen these kinds of projects talked about, and even started....the odds are against you. BUT, the plan of using a custom frame to adapt the stock Brat pickup points to the GD suspension gives you a prayer.

Very cool, I've never seen a patch of frame replaced with tube like that....but I've seen the whole front clip made of tube....so I don't see why it won't work. Pretty cool idea to make a little extra clearance! And it looks like it's given you quite a bit of room where you needed it. Excellent work

Front diffs are the same for all 5MTs. So anything listed for a Subaru 5MT will work. I have a Carbonetic clutch-type (listed for an '02+ WRX) for the 5MT D/R that's going in my Brat. The Carbonetic has a very large case, and it will not clear the 1.59:1 low range gears, but it does clear the 1.19 set (RX trans), so I'll be using that. You can see the difference here, when compared to a stock, open front diff: Arrow pointing at the spot where it hits. Now it looks like most helical diffs won't have that problem. I've heard first hand reports of people using the OBX diffs without incident. Sweet write-up on improving the quality of an OBX diff: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17129 I keep seeing these pop up on Ebay, looks like an OEM JDM helical diff. Probably pretty high quality, and looks like a lot of clearance for low range gears. Used...but I'd rather use this than an OBX one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Subaru-Impreza-Front-torsen-LSD-helical-GC8-sti-wrx-diff-differential-ratio-/140930015529?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20d0156129&vxp=mtr Thinking I might grab that, and build a 3.9, 1.59, PT4WD trans for my XT6 for RallyX use..... Also, AFAIK the Carbonetic is the only one that uses separate and/or OEM stubs, which is one of the reasons I chose it, so I will have 23-spline stubs in my Brat.

Yea, I looked into it quite a bit many years ago, and from what I remember, the XT6 is the same ratio as a standard XT, but the maximum steering angle was less (which probably would have been a good thing, I had an XT rack in my Loyale, and the tire rubbed on the frame rail in the front at full lock).

Did this throw a check engine light? Was the AT oil light on all the time? Did the transmission act like this consistently? I have very similar issues with a '99 Outback, shifts are kind of hard, and torque converter occasionally doesn't unlock when coming to a stop. But it only happens with the trans is cold, and only sometimes. No CEL, no AT oil light...I'm about to buy a new Duty B solenoid, assuming that it's sticking, but before I do that, I guess I'll check the TPS.

Most of your questions should be answered here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/Harness%20info.pdf That's the page I sent out with my harnesses. There's only one fuel pump power wire. The fuel pump relay should be in the harness GD gave you.

If it's a remanufactured one, it'll say Duralast on the box, but it's a cardone. Same reman stuff you get from most parts stores. Pretty crappy quality from them. I'm kind of curious about the new ones (Duralast Gold on the box). I'm not sure who makes them, but completely different story, we've had almost zero problems with them, and they're not much more expensive. I believe they are available for the rear of an EA81, so I may try some on my Brat (no core either, so keep the old ones as spares).

The difference is in the harness. If you've got a 5MT harness, it will have the AT/MT identification pin in it (which should be grounded), which will tell the ECU that the vehicle is a MT. If you have an AT harness, it will not have that pin...

You sure? All the convertible subarus I know of were aftermarket.

Aftermarket Coilovers can be made to fit. The actual coil springs are larger diameter, and would likely slip off the spring perch on an EA82 shock.

It's a phase 2. The fact that it's dependent on the temperature of the transmission, I don't think it's related to the TCU at all, I think it's either a sticking solenoid, or the converter itself.

Looks great. I have not changed it, but I've only had the car for about 1k miles. I looks like it's been recently changed.