Numbchux

fixed.

more than a little incorrect information there.... The modification is only necessary with 200SX calipers on 4-lug hubs. 240SX calipers work with 4-lug or 5-lug without modification. 200SX work with 5-lug without modification. When using either Tokico option, you use the subaru caliper bracket. Which means subaru pads and clips.

I had the dual ebrake setup on one of my lifted wagons, it worked pretty well, and would probably be pretty effective with a torsen. But, I'm not using the POS OBX, Cusco and Modena are very expensive. None of those options can be done with 23 spline stubs, and probably still wouldn't solve my clearance issues. I think with the EJ swap and a nice, forgiving clutch I wouldn't NEED the extra gearing. So I'm leaning more towards the LSD.

It should be fine in an RX trans, as the stock low range gearset in that is a 1.19:1, which is much smaller. My Carbonetic front diff has pretty good clearance from the 1.19 gearset, it's the 1.59:1 low range swap that's causing the problem for me.

Because a helical diff does not work unless there's some resistance at both wheels. It works fine in the sand, gravel, snow, even pretty well on ice. But if you lift a wheel off the ground, you've got basically nothing. And yea, going in a brat. 23 spline very preferred.

Common misconception. But the truth is that those trans coolers should always be used in addition to one built into the radiator. ATF operates hotter than engine coolant, and the heat transfer is much more effective from one fluid to another than with air. The 3AT is already a fairly fragile trans, don't cheap out on the cooling system, only to fry the trans. IMO, plastic end tanks are fine, as all metal ones are not always available. It's interesting you should bring that up, I work at AutoZone, and when I looked it up today, there's both the '85-'89 style rad (upturned lower port), and the '90-'94 one (straight out lower port) listed. Either can be used, but you will need the lower hose to match. The plastic-tank version you mention, is a spectra. Good part, I have one in my Celica. For that price, I probably wouldn't bother with the all-metal one.

No way to know whether the radiator in that car has a trans cooler or not without looking at it. If it is the original rad, it likely doesn't. But aftermarket radiators usually have the cooler and lines there, but just cap them off, so if it's been replaced, it probably does. New radiators are not terribly expensive. You can get an all metal one shipped to your door for $150: https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_32557_32785_32790_32791&product_id=10879 I've used that rad on 2 cars, I'm VERY happy with them.

Bah. After some measuring and consultation, I've decided that modifying this diff would be an extremely bad idea. I would have to take about 80% of the material off, all the way around. And while it's not massively load bearing, it would still probably ruin a brand-new diff that retails for more than I've paid for most of the cars I've owned.... So..... 1.2:1 Low range. Would give me about an 18.8:1 Crawl Ratio. Which is, meh. But, would mean I could plow on with what I have. Use an open front diff. This would require new front axle stubs, as the ones I have have been modified for the Carbonetic front diff. I'd get to keep the awesome gears, but loose the awesome front LSD. Or, find a different brand front LSD that might be a bit smaller where it counts. EDIT: Just did some research on this front. Most front LSDs are Helical (don't want), and/or have male 25-spline axle stubs built into them. Either of these are deal breakers..... I don't really like any of those options.

What? Nissan uses the exact same caliper manufacturer, they're as close as is possible. Honda's just happen to have similar spacing. It is possible to use EJ brakes in the rear of an EA with some modification, but you will still need XT6 hubs.

'88 XT service manuals: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/88_XT_Section_1.zip http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/88_XT_Section_2&3.zip http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/88_XT_Section_4&5.zip http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/88_XT_Section_6.zip

You had me here....but then If your only priority is driving sideways everywhere. This just isn't true, once an AWD car is sliding, it's more controllable because the front wheels are driven, and can pull the front of the car forward. Go ice racing once in a car with DCCD....you'll be shocked at how much more controllable it is with the center diff locked (4WD), than unlocked (RWD). Also wrong. If either could be called better across the board, it's FWD. Better weight distribution (for traction), more control. Duluth has been called mini-San-Fran many times.....the biggest issue I've had in the winter in my Celica (basically stock, 1.6L, AT + Blizzak Revo1s), is finding a road that doesn't have a car stuck in it. The thing plows through snow like nobody's business. From a snow storm a couple years ago. I was out for about 4 hours delivering pizzas. I did not need a running start to get into this parking spot, and did not need to shovel at all to get out: Again...I agree with that statement....then you follow it up with: Again, false. AWD/4WD (with some sort of traction device in the middle) will help mechanically ensure that all 4 wheels stay spinning at the same speed. I found that out a couple times in my Loyale with the FT4WD. Braking in the snow with the center diff unlocked, push the button to lock it, and violently engages, and the car slows significantly faster. The stock brake bias (which is calibrated for the weight transfer of a hard, dry pavement stop) meant that in order to prevent the front wheels from locking, I couldn't use enough braking force to get the rears to help. Locking the center diff evened it out, and an LSD center diff would do the same. I'll take mechanical AWD over ABS every day of the week. The control is left up to the driver, and a competent driver can anticipate the inputs needed long before a computer.

Closeout......they're not planning on making more :-p

Thanks for the heads up. Lots of old stuff on closeout. Picked up a pair of Beck/Arnley rear calipers for my XT6 (using Nissan 200SX stuff) I've never been let down by RockAuto or Beck/Arnley. These will be my first BA calipers, but I used all BA stuff when I did the rear brakes on my girlfriend's Kia (drums, cylinders, shoes, hardware).

I'm under the impression that EA81s don't have one at all. The brake balance was achieved by [mis]matching the brake setups accordingly. The posts I've seen on this subject only refer to doing this in EA81s, and that an EA82 valve (even if it had drums) is just fine. The rear brakes on a subaru are on 2 separate systems, so if you wanted to use a universal one like that, you'd either need 2, or you'd need to completely replumb the system. Stock EA82 valve is mounted in front of the rear suspension (not far from the fuel pump), and has 4 brake lines going to it. It's not hard to find. I have a rear disc swap on my brat without the valve. BUT, I have never driven it on the road, at speed, or locked up the brakes. So I cannot speak from experience on that. But, if the rears really do lock up first, that can be a very dangerous situation. A very small fraction of drivers can INSTINCTUALLY recover from oversteer. Thanks to 100s of hours of ice racing, I do believe I am in that group. But if you have to think about what you need to do to gather the vehicle up and get it going where you want it to go, it's too late.

I would be concerned about making the whole cab cold if you cut the bulkhead out. My Brat doesn't have a tailgate, but I don't think any part of that bed is insulated well enough to hold in the heat that heater puts out. I would put some separate heater in the bed, or your dryer duct idea (so it could be shut off, and keep the cab warm while driving) first.

Was it on fire? That engine looks rough... off the top of my head, looks like ignitor.

Was working on the 4.3Runner a lot. But it has earned itself a spot at the bottom of my priority list for awhile :-p Which means, Brat is back at the top. Brought my case down to the shop so we could grind a bit and test fit to get it just right. Got the ring gear modded just enough. After numerous test-fits in the one case half, I was pretty satisfied with the fit. So I put the other case half on just for a try. And something was major hitting. Couldn't figure it out, but definitely a gear hitting something solid. Not good. Laid everything in the other case half....and found the problem. The Carbonetic LSD case is hitting one of the low range gears. As you can see in this picture. The LSD has a larger, squared off shoulder, and the stock front diff is much more rounded. Red arrow pointing where contact is happening. It's hitting the lower left gear of the 4 in this picture: Not sure what to do from here. I think I need to take some measurements and see just how much material would have to come off to get that to clear, and debate whether I want to do that, or use a different front diff.

Toyota 4Runners had a little heater core/blower unit that was mounted in the center console for rear heat (my '87 SR5 had one). It would be very easy to use in another location. It just needs 12v and a couple 1/2" (IIRC) lines from the engine. Mine never worked, as the lines going to it rusted out and were bypassed long before I bought the truck....

Sweet! Thanks Shawn! That's perfect. I have jumpseats, but they are not installed. So I don't mind modifying/relocating them. Due to the amount of rust on this rig (mostly cosmetic) is to put a roll bar in it, and weld a gusset plate between the top of the roll bar to the cab. That way there's some extra beef attaching the rear suspension pickup points to the unibody.

Seems like kind of a dumb question.....but, as some of you may have seen in my other threads, my Brat ('84) doesn't live at home. It's about 25 miles away, in a direction that is not on the way to anything. That said, a friend of mine has a roll bar that came out of his Jeep Commanche. It's at a more convenient place. I'm wondering if someone knows, or would be willing to find out, the appropriate dimensions that would give me an idea of how difficult it would be to get fit. Width, maybe distance from the front of the bed to the wheel wells, height of the wheel wells, height of the back of the cab, etc.

Planning on taking the 4.3Runner camping this weekend, so some Camping mods were needed. 1st on the list when camping out of an SUV/Wagon, usually the rear hatch/gate is not designed to be operated from the inside, so I bought 2 momentary buttons, and mounted them to the inside trim panel (pics to come in the daylight), and wired them to control the rear window. Now I can roll the rear window up or down from the inside. Then I needed the rear window to operate with the key off, so I made that mod too. I used 4Crawler's write-up on modifying the system to track down the necessary wires to do this. http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/RearWindow.shtml#Relay The last step for today was lighting. I already had some LEDs in the stock dome and deck light fixtures from http://www.autolumination.com . But I needed to improve on that. So I got a pair of these LED light strips: http://www.oznium.com/smd-bar Ziptied them to the roll bar, and wired them in with the deck light: Lights the thing up like crazy. I'll have to be careful not to hit this switch while on the road at night, as it could be very distracting to a driver behind me.

I wouldn't be so quick to modify the frame there on an IFS rig. The upper suspension arm bolts to the top of the frame right there where you'd have the most clearance issues. It's not as much of an issue with a solid axle swap, as the axle is actually attached much further back. I think oil pan clearance would be a non-issue. Look how tall my 4.3 is: I needed 2 inches of extra vertical clearance for the front diff, and a couple fairly small holes in the hood. Height-wise, a Subaru motor would have so much spare room. But I think my 4.3 is too wide to drop through the Toyota frame (had to get aftermarket, "block-hugger" headers to tuck in the narrow toyota frame). I do think the Subaru heads would have to be ABOVE the frame and suspension arms.

If that bellhousing had been available 4 years ago when I was deciding what engine to put in my 4runner, I probably would have gone EG33 instead of 4.3... I think a ~3" Body/Drivetrain lift would be required, as I do not think the heads on the boxer would fit down inside the frame (although I have measured nothing....). This would be much easier with a Solid-axle version, as there's not really anything on top of the frame, the upper arms on the IFS would make it harder. Everything else would be fairly easy. I don't think it's any longer than a 22RE, 3VZE, or 4.3. And the radiator hoses are in the right place (same diameter, too). Just hook up the Toyota radiator and go.

That had to be a fun extraction :cool:

Ummmm.....Something isn't quite right about that picture. The tube work is awesome, but the sun isn't supposed to shine down there :-p