Numbchux

5MT transfer gears are a weak link while still AWD. There are companies (PPG, I think) that make stronger ones, but at that point, you might as well do the toyota trans. Long story short....might work.....might not.....

I've done it. My Loyale (while it was still my dad's) got the cheap r134a conversion fittings and recharged with it. The A/C worked great for a week or so until it leaked out again. Wasn't long before I did an EJ swap on that car and ripped out the A/C. I've been running my Celica for 2 years/40k miles though like that. When I bought the car, the system was too low to even engage. I bought the conversion kit from WalMart, hooked it up and filled the system, and it worked immediately. The conversion fitting leaked though. I bought another kit from AutoZone, and that one has held ever since. Put a small can in it this spring to top it off, and it worked great all summer. Not ice cold, but pretty good.

Two really great videos I just watched. If you've got a half hour or so to kill, sit down, and enjoy. First, BRZ vs FRS. I thought this one was really interesting. I really wish the Subaru dealership up here would get a BRZ test car so I could drive it!! And then, the daddy. FR-S vs Genesis vs Elise.

CTS seems to have solved the issue..... Got about 25 miles on it so far. Can't wait to get it offroad. Had to test the suspension travel so I could get the fenders trimmed....

Agreed. I'm not sure about the TO bearing either. Easy way to tell on the pressure plate. The EA/ER flywheel has a step from the pressure plate mounting face down to the friction surface. Whereas the EJ one is flat. This means that the friction surface protrudes out beyond the cover on an EA/ER pressure plate. The picture in that ebay link shows a cover where the mounting surface is on the same(ish) plane as the friction surface.

So.....new job = less stress and more free time..... Worked on it a bunch this week. Confirmed that I am getting WOT with the pedal. Set the ignition timing. Had to advance it quite a bit from where it was. So much that I was pretty sure I had the plug wires on the wrong posts. So I fixed that, and reset it. Then it died, and wouldn't restart. Messed with it for quite awhile yesterday, bah. Tried it today, it fired right up, and purred like a kitten. Put it in gear and put some load on it (just holding the brakes....didn't feel like moving the jet ski and stuff behind it just yet), ran awesome. Then as soon as it hit operating temp, it died. Restarted once, but only ran for a minute. Then it wouldn't restart. Then it threw a code for a CTS......So, I'll pick one of those up tomorrow, and try again. Hoping to drive it to work this week....

To put that quote back in context, it's "the worlds first boxer engine......with direct injection". Which is absolutely true. I admit, the first time I saw the ad, I had a moment of WTF during that pause. I drove the FR-S at the local dealership within a few days that it was on the showroom floor. I was beyond impressed. Light, agile, nimble, comfortable, glorious. Will most likely be my next car.

We had stick-on rain gaurds on our GD #171 Rally Car as the Lexan windows we made for that car didn't seal very well. Absolutely no problems clearing the tops of the windows when the doors were opened. If they are installed correctly, they will clear just fine, but it will probably take some trial and error to get there. Also, I don't know how much room there will be to mount the driver's side one with the radio antenna where it is. That said, most auto parts stores sell stick-on visors like that. Get some measurements, and walk in with a tape measure and see what might work.

Heads aren't your main issue, oil pressure loss is a concern to the main bearings and piston rings (likely your cause of oil consumption). If it was only driven a couple miles, it probably didn't overheat, which would mean almost zero chance of warped heads. These are all wear items, and can be replaced. But depending on how much damage they absorbed, they may be causing more damage to the crank, pistons, and block. Get an engine reseal kit, bearings, and rings (measure the last 2 before ordering, you may need/want oversized ones), give it a DIY cylinder hone, and it'll be good for many many years of service to come.

There's always the garden edging option....

In the front? Absolutely not unless it was put in by a previous owner. A Front LSD was not available from subaru until the mid-90s in Japan, and 2004 STi in the US. That said, any front diff designed for a subaru 5-speed would be a direct fit. I'm putting a Carbonetic front LSD, that's advertised for a 2002-2007 WRX, in an '80s trans. But, it's not cheap, and not a small project.....so highly unlikely.

I'm not the person to ask. Never bought new front struts for a 4-lug subaru....

Thought I replied to this... The XT6 trans does not have the low range stuff any more than the phase 1 EJs do. The case is shaped to leave room for the gears, but it would still require some serious machining to get everything to mount up. IMHO not worth it. Here's some phase 1 EJ gears laid in an XT6 case: I think the XT6 trans might have the ticket that might not require the RX donor, though. You could probably mix and match input and output shafts like GLoyale did (He used an EJ ouput shaft and gears, which didn't work out). As the N/A PT4WD Dual-Range and XT6 FT4WD trans have the same gear ratios, but likely not the difference in hypoid cuts by using the EJ ouput shaft and gears. But this is just speculation.... Got the circlips and case gaskets from the dealership today. Going to stop by my buddy's shop tomorrow to see if the machining is done. I'll be out of town for the weekend, so I won't be able to test-fit until next week sometime....but it's getting close. Then I have to find time to strip another EJ harness....and put the whole mess in the brat. And THEN, I have to measure the driveshaft and have that modded. Oh yea, and find my 4.444 rear end. I took a glance in my shed today, and only saw a 3.7. Maybe tear apart some of my spare axles to make some deep-DOJ rear axles. I also was looking at a gear calculator, comparing my 4.3Runner setup to the Brat... 4.3Runner, 4L60, Toyota 2.26 Low, Toyota 4.10 axles, 35s: 3.06 x 2.26 x 4.1 = 28.4 3k rpm in 1st Low = 961 feet/minute Brat, on 29s: 3.545 x 1.592 x 4.444 = 25 3k rpm in 1st Low = 909 feet/minute The 4.3Runner is an Auto, so it has the torque converter. But the Brat is a LOT lighter. With the EJ MPFI, it should be a very capable rig. Especially with the front LSD, and hopefully an auto-locker in the rear

Excel Gs are superseding GR2s. The only difference is black paint instead of silver and a different sticker, and they have the same part numbers. Which means parts dealers have no way to order one or the other. In fact it's not uncommon to get some of each. My Celica has 3 Excel-Gs and one GR2. IIRC, any 4WD EA82 should use the same rear shock. Only difference I can think of would be the internal valving. I don't think they'd bother having different valving for the different body styles just for a stock replacement, but if it does, grab the wagon ones, as those have the stiffest springs (most weight).

When I first did my 5-lug swap, I was running '92 Legacy FWD shafts (came from the same donor as my EJ22). Over the years, blown boots and wheel bearings have led to a number of different '90s EJ axles and knuckle combinations to be swapped out, all with no trouble at all. This was in my '92 Loyale, AWD XT6 control arms, EJ knuckles and struts, EA81 TREs. Then swapped into my '88 XT6, with stock AWD XT6 control arms, and EJ knuckles and struts, XT6 TREs And now in my '89 XT6, ditto.... Never had an issue with length. To give you some measurements, these are all EMPI photos/measurements, found on RockAuto: EA82t 4-lug: That says compressed length is 27 3/8" XT6 5-lug: 26 5/8" EJ (I pulled it for a '99 Impreza 2.5RS) 26 7/8" And on inner wheel seals. These are a press fit into the knuckle, and have to seal against the surface on the CV. Dimensions are from National brand seals XT6: Shaft Size=2.283", Housing Bore=2.992, Outer Diameter=3.001, Width=0.307in EJ: Shaft Size=2.205", Housing Bore=2.846, Outer Diameter=2.858, Width=0.315in As you can see, the XT6 seal will not fit into the EJ knuckle (OD), and the XT6 CV would not seat correctly (shaft size). If you convince yourself that XT6 axles are your ticket, here's a post I made a couple years ago on the subject, with part numbers for conversion seals. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=836218&postcount=20

non-widebody EJ axles should work fine. I ran a few different combinations of '90s EJ axles in my wagon, and they worked just fine. Longer, but within the travel of the DOJ. XT6 is close, but will require a different inner seal to seat correctly. I don't remember what 6MTs had what for axle splines. But if you've got female splines on the transmission, I believe 4EAT stubs will give you the 25 male splines you need to make older EJ parts work

460!

As you can see in the pics, the pinion shaft is a drastically different length between the FT4WD and AWD setups, so the center diff has to match the pinion or major fabrication becomes necessary. I've seen the stock VLSD center diff perform offroad, and am fairly confident in it's strength. And if it turns out to be insufficient, the Group N unit (5 times stronger than stock) or DCCD are both simple swaps, and probably less than a cut and weld and treatment on a pinion shaft. PT4WD transmissions have the pinion shaft as part of the output shaft. They are not seperable. So the output shaft must come from a FT4WD or AWD unit. And the input shaft is unique to the dual range. The only way to get both with USDM parts without mixing and matching, is the RX box. RX originally was 3.7 axle ratio, and 1.192 low range.

Bearing splitter came today. 4.444 pinion gear has a bearing on it. Carbonetic diff has side bearings. I did notice, that even once I got the bearing and washer pressed onto the pinion, something was a different length, and that the nut wouldn't be able to tighten things up properly.... Compared that little spline adapter to an EJ one....yep, there's the problem: Diameters and spline counts are the same, but length is slightly different. Good to know, and got it straightened out. Machine work should be done in a few days. Then I can put the trans back together. Then I can start the project of putting it in the brat (along with the EJ18 swap....). Then I can have the driveline modified, etc. etc. that DCCD hasn't sold yet.....might throw him a lowball....

This is beyond epic. I raise a glass to Suberdave for sheer awesome! I wonder how the FWD trans internals vary from AWD in an EJ. If you could re-use some of the FWD parts in a pull-type case. That would solve your clutch issue.....although I'm not sure how other things would hold up. Also, as it turns out, it's really not difficult to use 23-spline axle stubs with a Carbonetic front LSD. Just a little machine work to convert the 5MT 23-spline stubs to use a circlip instead of the snapring.

yep....twice....

Found out a friend of mine has a lathe at his shop. Dropped off the parts there, he's very confident that he can make it happen. He thought it would be best to chamfer the ring gear, and not modify the collar at all. Ordered a bearing splitter, so I can put swap bearings onto the pinion and front diff.

This, those pumps are designed to push fluid, not pull it. Just like a fuel pump. Also, that vacuum canister is fairly crucial to making the HVAC system work.

the Outback has dual exhaust ports on the engine. The '97 will have single-ports. So if you use this engine, you will have to swap the exhaust manifold too. But everything else should be plug-n-play. I put a '94 2.2 in a '96 outback last summer. Wasn't hard at all, maybe 8 hours of fairly casual work. I had to remove the intake manifold to swap the 2.5 wiring and a few of the sensors across. I also had to swap the 2.5 throttle body, as the throttle position sensor was different. And the crank/cam sensors had slightly different wiring, but swapped right across. Car runs like a champ now! With both full engines, you should have everything you need to get it running. But if you want/need to have the check engine light off, you might need to do some figuring for the EGR...

I wouldn't worry about the gauges. Just leave the auto indicators there, they'll just be off. You'll need some custom work on the crossmember. And have the driveshaft modified. Some experimenting with shift linkage/mounting. Axles. Either '93-'94 5MT FWD Impreza axles, custom homemade hybrid axles, or put 25 spline stubs in your trans (If you're not afraid to split the trans, this is probably the best option. LMK if you need a pair, I probably have 6 or 8 5MT 25-spline front stubs lying around). Yep, pedal box from a cable-clutch 5MT EJ car. Rear diff. Don't know what year legacy you're dealing with. First gen's should all have female splines on the inner DOJs for the rear axles (easy to tell, just look if there's springpins or not), these will make the EA82 diff a bolt-on thing. Otherwise you may want to grab a 3.9 rear diff from an EJ car to simplify axles.