Numbchux

I thought that might be the case. I'm thinking a few careful minutes with a dremel could fix that though. I don't know what all is required to swap to EA82 parts. I have heard the opening for the strut is a different size, which would be a problem, as that's where my lift block is...

Couple more pictures just popped up:

Really? Thanks for the clarification. A friend of mine used to daily drive a diesel vanagon westy. I'm sure he told me it was a boxer.

My work with EJ18s is limited (even though I own one ). But I'm pretty sure....the bolts for all EJ TBs are the same configuration. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/16175AA150/ TB gasket. I found many different part numbers, but they overlap. This one lists all years of the 1.8, and I many years of the 2.5. agreed. I think I understand about 10% of what he says.

And cut....

Well, the cowl as-is will hit the windshield once the hood is open, so it's got to be cut back. So it might as well be cut back quite a bit for a better fit... Also made progress on the exhaust. Welded a reducer onto the flange on the passenger side. And reusing the Y-pipe that was on the Blazer (cut shorter, of course). Since space is so tight, I'm just going to use slip fittings and muffler clamps to put it together. It might leak some, but it'll do, and remain serviceable.

Just an observer but please clarify for others that may see this. It makes it sound like you put a 2.5 intake onto a 2.2 or 1.8 to me and in my experience that WON'T work. I hear it will with the stuff after 2000 or so though. Key phrase "and swapped the engine harness between them". You are correct, the intake manifold will not swap, but the manifold has to be removed to swap the wiring harness.

I really don't recommend this. I think it's absolutely worth the time to trace every wire through the harness and get rid of it. If it goes to a plug that you know you need, identify it and label it. Also, the ABS system uses some shielded wires.....you don't have to save those But yea, be careful around the crank and cam sensor wires. Those can cause problems.

I assume you could do the same that I did with a 2.2 last summer. '94 2.2, in a '96 outback. Pulled the intake manifold off both motors, and swapped the engine harness between them. The important stuff (injectors and such) plugged right in, and I swapped all the vacuum lines and solenoids to recreate the 2.5 setup on the 2.2. I also had to swap the throttle bodies as the plug for the harness was completely different. It runs awesome! I meant to swap an OBD II 2.2 ECU in it, but never got around to it. With a complete longblock, I was able to do it with no new parts except gaskets (IM and TB).

I like to grab tach, vss, and temp right at the gauge. This is scanned from my Chilton's manual and should all of that http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf

Vanagons did not come with TDI. TDI engines are straight 4 (or vr6 in other markets). Vanagons had a diesel variation of the flat 4 gas engine common in older Volkswagens and Porsches. These are a very similar configuration to a Subaru motor, which is why a Subaru swap is so perfect. With a custom adapter plate, you could put a Vanagon diesel in a Subaru.... but it would not be a TDI...

Production GT class.....so yea. Has to be stock engine and transmission

This last weekend. Friday night super specials were at Portland International Raceway. Saturday and Sunday start/finishes were in The Dalles and Dufur.

Hood cowl arrived today Debating whether to cut it down a bit. It doesn't need to extend that far forward on the hood. I could cut it back, and then it would lay flat more easily. But, it does look pretty good as-is. Might be able to sand down the flange a bit to match the shape of the hood.

Found a pic of it lined up at the start line behind O'Sullivan and ACP: Even better.....Action shot!

Yea, they're not rare, but I don't have any, and don't want to buy a transmission (or tear one down in a junkyard) for them.

Bump. I now own a Carbonetic front LSD, which is designed to be used with the stubs from a 4EAT. I just slipped a 5MT stub into it, and it fits perfectly. So, the only difference is the circlip vs. snapring. Seems to me that would increase the chances of a 3at stub working. Otherwise, if I can get my hands on 23-spline MT stubs, I may be able to use them with circlips...

Now I REALLY wish I was there!! Just noticed this car listed on the entry list. And through a little googling..... http://www.teamd.org/blog/ And the for sale ad: http://www.nwrally.com/mag/jul07/classified.htm I haven't heard or seen anything about it, but he's listed as a DNF for today. I really hope to stumble on some pics of it....

Seats don't even swap within the '80s models....so you'll have to be more specific

So...Very little time spent on it over the winter. But I spent some good time on it last week. One thing that did happen over the winter....I bought these: More backspacing, and an inch narrower. Should help keep the tires tucked under the bodywork, and keep the bead seated when aired down. Also, I love this style wheel.... I test-fitted them on my FJ80 axle, though. That's going to be interesting. The FJ80 came with 16" wheels, and the rear brakes reflect that. I might be able to grind down the caliper enough to get these to clear, I know that's been done with lower backspaced wheels....Or, I'll have to step up to 16s before I can use this axle. Other progress. Upper radiator hose and intake done: Custom Power Steering hose made: And installed: Manual brake proportioning valve installed, and brakes bled: This is not enough room for a radiator fan: I put it in gear the other day, and loaded up the drivetrain. I'm glad my fan was held onto the brackets with zipties.....cause they broke. Going to have to find a slimmer fan, and/or modify mounts to push the radiator forward a bit But I've run the engine for probably 20 minutes or so last weekend. Has all fluids, and none of them leak Power steering works, brakes work, transmission works, temp gauge works. Tach does not work, the little LED on the tach signal modulator flashes, so it has power, and is receiving a signal. So either I don't have the output hooked up correctly, or the signal isn't correct (like the EA82 digi dashes with an EJ engine issue...I might poke around to see if I can add a resistor to the dash to get it to work). This is not terribly high on my priority list... Oil pressure gauge does not work. I'm using the stock toyota sender that matches the gauge, so calibration is correct, this must be a connectivity issue (either unplugged, or miswired). The chevy fuel pump is controlled from it's own oil pressure sending unit, so I'm not too worried about the gauge, as if I loose oil pressure, the engine will quit. Monday, I'm going to start on exhaust. I'm just going to weld a reducer onto the flange for the headers, and just use slip fittings and muffler clamps for the Y-pipe. Space is tight, and if I need to take stuff apart, I'll need it to come apart in many places.

Carbonetic clutch-type front LSD, and OEM 4.444 front ring & pinion are in my possession: Just need the low range gearset, and I can build the transmission. Then I just need a clutch and 25 spline axles, and I can put it in the rig.

I've had 3 of them, 2 behind EJ22s, and a third in an XT6. Loved 'em. Will be getting one for the brat!

Not necessarily true, actually. Timing jumped does not mean damage. I've seen more than a few jump a teeth or 3 without damage. After the Ziptie Rally roll in 2009, both cams on the driver's side had jumped, the exhaust cam almost 90 degrees!! Reset (with a new belt), and it fired right up, no damage at all. Still running those heads!

Yea. I don't worry about broken timing belts on an EJ. On an EA82 we talk about running without covers so when it breaks, it can be replaced quickly. I wouldn't even consider that on an EJ. They are infinitely better designed. The OBD II ECUs are so much smarter than the OBD I versions. I've seen more than a few people throw 8 psi of boost at one with no problems. You actually can't run a piggy back ECU, because it will learn around it. This translates into more power when you want it, and better mileage when just cruising. AND, the diagnostics are far more detailed. AND AND, there are a plethora of products out there designed to plug into an OBD II port to monitor the engine, including Bluetooth dongles that can sync real time information to your smart phone! No more jumper wires and counting bulb flashes. I know GD prefers the 95 wiring to the 96-99, but not me. 95 2.2s are not as common, wiring diagrams are harder to come by, and heaven forbid you should ever need a new ECU. These are relatively small hurdles, so I don't think the 95 should be avoided, but it's not my first choice. Also, the Impreza of those years had 2 plugs between the engine controls and the rest of the harness. This simplifies the job of stripping and installing it. Again, not a deal breaker, but I do prefer that to the Legacy versions which are all one piece.

Definitely the key phrase. That's why I said it. You are kind of spoiled in the PNW. The OP is in Oklahoma... so neither of our local experiences are entirely applicable. I bet the split between them is more like 5 or 600 lbs. Which is a ton (figuratively.... obviously :-p ). The suspension is definitely superior, I wouldn't consider strapping $8k coil overs to an EA82... but for DD duty... sure Each their own, indeed. Your points are not without logic, but I still wouldn't dismiss the swap nearly that quickly. That's a great outlook to have. But I look at it a little differently. When I'm considering modifying a car, I assume that I'll be losing money on it, and be happy if I don't. Usually I come pretty close to breaking even. I don't think I'll make my $1800 back on my Celica... but I intend to drive it for 100k miles or more...