Numbchux

It moved under it's own power today. Mounted the gas tank, hooked up the wiring (now using stock fuel pump wiring, as it's in the tank now), hooked up the extended fuel filler, and the high pressure fuel line. Then I poured a few gallons of gas in there. After priming the pump a few times, gas came out of the return. So, since I knew it was hooked up correctly, and pumping, I connected the return line. Once it was running, I moved some crap around, and backed the truck out into the daylight. First time it's moved under it's own power in almost 3 years. Looks sweet, IMO. Loving that rear bumper in the daylight Set the cowl on it again to get a look at it with the rest of the truck Then after putting it away, I wired in the alternator and a couple other piddly things. Then I painted the cowl black, and set it on there again: I think I'm going to paint the center section of the hood black as well.

nope, 2 mounts on each trailing arm. that's it.

I'm interested, pending price. If it's comparable to lunchbox lockers for larger rigs, I'd be in for sure.

Woa.....someone's been searching. This thread is from 2005.

It was on sale, $300 after tax, I think. It's amazing, though. We had a pretty light winter, but everything stayed completely dry inside.

Fuel line cracked while mocking up tank mounts... Compression fitting, bulkhead fitting, right angle, and hose barb..... Since I had it apart, I mounted my new fuel pump down in the tank in place of the old one. Old "Genuine Steel" rear bumper: New 4xInnovations one. Designed for a 2" Body Lift, with VERY beefy tow points which are solid mounted to the frame without relying on welds at all, and a class 2 rated 2" receiver hitch. And with some POR15 Some rattlecan paint to come later, this combination will prevent rust, and be easy to effectively touch up. Also did a test-fit. If I adjust my radiator fan mounts, and lower the fan to the bottom of the rad, it will give a lot more clearance from the water pump.

Still haven't been to the shop.... BUT, I picked up a pile (6...) of free EJ axles. One was a front with a 4EAT stub still in it. So it was just a matter of pounding out the pin and comparing it to a 5MT one that I have. Ioku was exactly correct (not that I doubted him, just cool to see it in a side-by-side comparison). The notch for the circlip/snapring is in a different place. But, other than that (and a slight taper on the end of the 4eat stub), they are essentially identical. 4EAT on the left, 5MT on the right. Sorry they're not lined up very well, but you can still see the differences. Not sure if I want to cut a notch like that by hand, with a dremel. I might test it on a 25 spline one and see how it looks. I will certainly get a quote from a machine shop, though

According to the XT parts catalog that was recently made digital thanks to mr.radon and grossgary over on the XT boards (if you haven't seen it....click here to download it). I'm looking at pages 136-141 in the tranny section. I started looking to see if there was any similarities or differences in the front axle stubs, and I actually found a matching part number. Interesting, so I started looking closer. 3ATs actually have internal snaprings just like the 5MTs. Then, I decided to look a little closer. The Differential "case" (carrier), part number shows "38421 AAOOO" for the FWD 5MT, and the same part number for all 3ATs. A little digging on opposedforces.com pulls up that same part number for FWD impreza 5MTs. But some FWD cars (and AWD cars) list 38421 AA020. Then I compared the differential bearings. These actually have dimensions... the FWD ones are 37x72x18, and the turbo/4WD ones are 40x80x19 But, I think the bearing retainers are interchangeable. They have different part numbers (for different IDs), but the O-ring that seals the OD is the same. What does this all mean?? Well....not much, really. I find it interesting, as it means that 3ATs are not the missing link in my search for 23-spline stubs that will interchange with 4EAT stubs (in my carbonetic front LSD). It also means, that with the bearing retainers, bearings, and seals from an AWD 5MT, a person could put an LSD designed for any AWD 5MT into a 3AT. I highly doubt anybody would spend that kind of cash on a 3AT.....but there it is.

I bet it will. I've seen numerous early EJs converted to hydraulic using WRX pedal boxes and such, and it all bolts right up.

That's interesting. I'm but opposed to cutting a whole new slot if that's what it takes. Next time I'm out at the shop, I know there are a couple junk 4EATs, so I'll pull a stub and see how it compares. Yea, the Carbonetic website says it requires AT WRX stubs, but lists the part number, which turns out to be good for all 4EATs. But once it arrived, I tried one of the 5MT stubs I had (88 XT6, 92 Legacy, or 94 Impreza), and it fit perfectly. But, this is a clutch type diff, so I can't see where they are inside. Good news is, these stubs will be removable without opening the case...

It is possible, but can be a pain. Due to all the variations in shaft diameter, spline count, cup diameter, etc. It's a crapshoot finding the parts needed. And since this is a lifted rig, with low gears, LSDs, and EJ power, I expect to break axles. I'd much rather do the work now, so that I don't have to every time I break them.

I thought that might be the case. I'm thinking a few careful minutes with a dremel could fix that though. I don't know what all is required to swap to EA82 parts. I have heard the opening for the strut is a different size, which would be a problem, as that's where my lift block is...

Couple more pictures just popped up:

Really? Thanks for the clarification. A friend of mine used to daily drive a diesel vanagon westy. I'm sure he told me it was a boxer.

My work with EJ18s is limited (even though I own one ). But I'm pretty sure....the bolts for all EJ TBs are the same configuration. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/16175AA150/ TB gasket. I found many different part numbers, but they overlap. This one lists all years of the 1.8, and I many years of the 2.5. agreed. I think I understand about 10% of what he says.

And cut....

Well, the cowl as-is will hit the windshield once the hood is open, so it's got to be cut back. So it might as well be cut back quite a bit for a better fit... Also made progress on the exhaust. Welded a reducer onto the flange on the passenger side. And reusing the Y-pipe that was on the Blazer (cut shorter, of course). Since space is so tight, I'm just going to use slip fittings and muffler clamps to put it together. It might leak some, but it'll do, and remain serviceable.

Just an observer but please clarify for others that may see this. It makes it sound like you put a 2.5 intake onto a 2.2 or 1.8 to me and in my experience that WON'T work. I hear it will with the stuff after 2000 or so though. Key phrase "and swapped the engine harness between them". You are correct, the intake manifold will not swap, but the manifold has to be removed to swap the wiring harness.

I really don't recommend this. I think it's absolutely worth the time to trace every wire through the harness and get rid of it. If it goes to a plug that you know you need, identify it and label it. Also, the ABS system uses some shielded wires.....you don't have to save those But yea, be careful around the crank and cam sensor wires. Those can cause problems.

I assume you could do the same that I did with a 2.2 last summer. '94 2.2, in a '96 outback. Pulled the intake manifold off both motors, and swapped the engine harness between them. The important stuff (injectors and such) plugged right in, and I swapped all the vacuum lines and solenoids to recreate the 2.5 setup on the 2.2. I also had to swap the throttle bodies as the plug for the harness was completely different. It runs awesome! I meant to swap an OBD II 2.2 ECU in it, but never got around to it. With a complete longblock, I was able to do it with no new parts except gaskets (IM and TB).

I like to grab tach, vss, and temp right at the gauge. This is scanned from my Chilton's manual and should all of that http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/Loyale%20Instrument%20Panel%20Wiring.pdf

Vanagons did not come with TDI. TDI engines are straight 4 (or vr6 in other markets). Vanagons had a diesel variation of the flat 4 gas engine common in older Volkswagens and Porsches. These are a very similar configuration to a Subaru motor, which is why a Subaru swap is so perfect. With a custom adapter plate, you could put a Vanagon diesel in a Subaru.... but it would not be a TDI...

Production GT class.....so yea. Has to be stock engine and transmission

This last weekend. Friday night super specials were at Portland International Raceway. Saturday and Sunday start/finishes were in The Dalles and Dufur.

Hood cowl arrived today Debating whether to cut it down a bit. It doesn't need to extend that far forward on the hood. I could cut it back, and then it would lay flat more easily. But, it does look pretty good as-is. Might be able to sand down the flange a bit to match the shape of the hood.