Numbchux

I'm sure it'll be a few years before these start showing up used, but theoretically a person could walk into a Subaru or Scion dealer in a few months and order a bellhousing much like what Bill is making (although I'm sure it's much more expensive). Check out these pics of the BRZ running gear http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3981 Now, I know that the fb20 and fa20 engines (BRZ gets the fa, IIRC) use the same bolt pattern as the 8-bolt EJs, the question will be, what transmission is that? likely a Toyota unit, like the rear diff.

Only possibility would be with the EZ family, and even then, probably only with the "DR" motors ('05+ 3.0 and 3.6), not the 30D. And these motors already have variable valve timing and such, so they have gobs of power. The EG and ER engines were completely different (like, the combustion chambers wouldn't even slightly line up).

XT6 flywheels have a slightly different step, and are lighter. But XT6 and EA82 clutch kits will interchange. I've used a Beck/Arnley XT6 clutch kit from RockAuto 3 times. Once in an Xt6, and twice in Ej swaps. I absolutely love 'em, very high quality (all new parts, not remanufactured), doesn't slip, but very forgiving.. I will be using one in my Brat once I get the EJ swap done in it.

Toyotas use the same diameter lug stud as subaru (12mm, although toyota uses a 1.5 pitch, and subaru uses a 1.25). BUT, some alloys require a shank, or mag, style lug nut, as they have a much larger hole, and no conical seat. like this: If that is the kind of wheel you are using, you will need to find a set of these style lug nuts, with a subaru thread pitch (or, use 12x1.5 studs).

Yea, I saw that. I'm sure it's been done more than once. But that kit is designed for a Nissan S13. The intercooler piping will have to be modified, the radiator may or may not work, heater hoses will not be correct, etc. With that kit (and most of the parts in it), you're paying a premium for parts that are pre-fabbed to be a perfect fit in an S13. If you're not putting it in an S13, it'd be a lot cheaper to just get the raw materials, since everything will have to be custom anyway.

um....that package is for an S13 Silvia/240SX, not for a Subaru. Anything is possible with enough fabricating and money. That's a lot of engine to sling out in front of the front wheels, so pretty much forget about keeping in AWD.

Can't hurt. But I never balanced the ones that I've done and haven't had any vibration issues.

Are those a set of 14" subaru alloys on it now? They sure look like it!

Thanks guys. Of the 62 cars that started, we finished with combined standings (both days, National and regional) in 15th place overall. Yea, we're pretty proud of that. Trip home was a bit rough. 60+ degrees and sunny when we left sunday morning, and snowing pretty hard here in Duluth when I got home. Had a trailer wheel fall off in Des Moines, 5 studs sheered off, 6th one bent up pretty good, but with the nut still on it. Never found the wheel.... After a few tries, managed to find some studs that fit, and got it all put back together. Delayed us about 3 hours. I was on the road for about 17 hours to travel that ~800 miles. I also switched from BFG All Seasons to Blizzaks in Minneapolis. Fast Eddy's crash: Pretty amazing to have a wreck like that and still finish!!

Yea....kinda following it :-p We're here. got 2nd in class, and 4th overall of the regional competitors yesterday, and currently sitting 5th overall and 3rd in class today (2 more stages since we last saw times). Coming into service yesterday: We had a slight off today, dented the driver's door, and got a flat tire. Also broke a front endlink (we're running tubular front control arms, based off the WRC design, and it must be designed to run a wider sway bar). Lots of carnage. Fast Eddy rolled his Fiesta hard. Managed to throw a new windshield in at service tonight and got back out. Crazy Leo has had many issues. Had a flat tire, and drove about 8 hard stage miles on the flat. Including the famous cattle grate jump: http://rally-america.com/events/2012/100AWRR/gallery/photo/1/4397/ Then he broke a tie rod, somehow bandaged it to keep going, but the fix let go, and he wound up in a tree. Antoine Lestage had a shifter issue that forced him to retire yesterday. Ken block chewed up the front of his Fiesta pretty fierce on stage 13 or 14 today. But they obviously came prepared, as they had all new body panels on it after the second service. Bill Caswell rolled his 325ix as well. Although I guess he's going to go home and get his 318i and run WRC Mexico anyway. There's a Geo Metro with a Hyabusa motor as well. Don't know the driver at all, but the thing was freakin wicked. Appears to have DNFed though....don't know the story there. David Higgins appears to have run a very clean race. Had a side skirt get peeled off the codriver side of the car, but nothing major. Adam Yeoman is burning it up. If his new car is half as amazing as it sounds, he will be the guy to watch over the next year or so. Facebook post as of a few moments ago says 6th overall Tyler Witte slid into a tree on the driver's door HARD. No damage to prevent him from continuing today, but that cage will need new door bars at least before entering any future events. Christy Carlson has been running GC STi rear diff and axles in her GD WRX sedan. Her crew chief had a rear axle snap on his way back from tech inspection. Apparently the shorter axles (narrower track) were stretched so badly, it broke the axle shaft, cracked the DOJ cup, and tweaked the snaprings preventing either axle from being removed from the diff. We offered our assistance, and were so worried that the amount of force required to remove the remains of the stub from the diff would cause too much damage to the diff. So we welded up the cracks, and put a strap around it, and put a new axle in it. She was still running strong at the last service. Justin Pritchard is insanely fast for an Open Light (AWD, non turbo) car. He beat out the Krolikowskis by over 3 minutes (which is extremely impressive, as Henry has been racing for 25ish years, and in rally, in the midwest, in this car, for about 10). Friday service area: Just saw the results. Ken Block David Higgins Krzysztof Holowczyc 2WD: Chris Duplessis Andrew Comrie-Picard Dillon Van Way 7th, 8th, and 9th overall respectively

yep, company in Aus makes reverse-rotation front R&P.....expensive http://www.subarugears.com

Your homework is not over. USRM + Search

Your rotors and pads have to match your caliper brackets....

If you plan on drilling the wheels, get steelies. Modify the hubs to 6-lug, or sell those.

There is an AT/MT identification wire on the '96-'99 ECUs, but you have to add a pin there for it to work. It's absolutely possible to use -'99 EJ ECUs that came from a car with an auto with a manual without any CELs.

I added a second ebrake handle in one of my lifted EA82s, and ran each cable independently to each handle. Was VERY effective at redirecting power. And extremely easy. I'll probably do something similar in my brat

There are lots of vehicles that would have something similar. Caravans had rear quarter windows that could flip open a bit like that. Sometime in the late '90s, they switch to an electric mechanism that could be operated from the driver's seat.... A quick search on ebay, brings up a few options, and it looks like dodge pickups used the exact same latch. These should be EXTREMELY easy to find in a junk yard. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Truck-Quarter-Window-Glass-Latch-Assembly-/260954163263?fits=Model:Caravan&hash=item3cc214883f&item=260954163263&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_8172wt_1016 this one lists the OEM part number too: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-4512666-Side-Window-Latch-84-95-Caravan-96-01-Ram-2500-3500-Ext-Cab-/290668002122?fits=Model:Caravan&hash=item43ad29bb4a&item=290668002122&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_499wt_718 found a picture of one installed in a pickup:

Yep, the town I live in is entirely built on a pretty steep hill. The Avenue right outside my house is on more than a 12% grade. I go pretty far out of my way to park on the streets (cutting across the hill) instead of the avenues (up and down the hill). I've never had a car with a functional parking brake move. The EA subaru ebrake uses the same piston and pads as the standard brake....it's just as strong. Keep in mind, the hill holder only uses one system. So only ONE front brake and one rear. It's not going to be any better.

What?!?! Absolutely Not! The front mechanical ebrake on EA82s work much better at making an emergency stop than most. And yes, the brake locks you're looking at (more commonly referred to as line locks) are not a good idea for anything but temporary use. Any hydraulic system will not hold the car for any length of time. I've seen electrically-operated line locks used in rock crawlers, great for holding the rig still for a minute while you hop out and have a look at your surroundings. Or even locking one wheel to help maneuver. The same principle goes for the hill holder. I would not trust it to hold the car for any period of time without me in it. IMO, Do it right (mechanical), or not at all. Having a system that will work just long enough for you to get far enough away from the car that you have no control, is asking for trouble.

The sway bar mounts on an XT6 are further forward on the crossmember than EA82s, so it's not a direct fit. Mine contacted the control arms a bit. But it should not be anywhere near any power steering lines. Perhaps installed upside down? In fact, I don't think there should be any power steering lines at all in the vicinity. Sounds like something's botched. You should post some pictures if you can.

That's pretty normal for an ARB. I'm surprised it's not more

Yep, DCCD is the only realistic way to have mostly RWD with some power to the front, like you describe. A friend of mine has an '04 USDM 6MT with a DCCDPro controller in his '96 impreza. I got to drive it quite a bit on the ice a couple weeks ago. In full "RWD" mode, it doesn't feel at all like a subaru. It's very obvious that the front wheels aren't helping at all. We actually played a joke on a friend, left it in RWD mode, and told him to give it a try. He spun out about 10 times in one lap The DCCD system uses an electromagnetically controlled LSD, combined with a mechanical rear-bias (usually 35:65, but some older models were 45:55). So, by releasing the LSD, the rear wheels will spin first. By tightening the LSD, it requires more force to get it to slip, which means the front wheels will help more. GD, AFAIK the 20kg center diff was not installed in any factory transmission. But was available as an aftermarket part from STi. It can be ordered new from http://www.japanparts.com One of the Ziptie Rally cars (bought used, as an already-built rally car) has one of these in it. I'm hoping to talk him into going to a 6MT with the new chassis, and buying it off him to use in my Brat.

Engine harness should all be grounded directly (and only) through the engine block.

If your transmission is newer, it will have an electronic sensor in it, that can be used for the VSS on the ECU. But, if you want the stock brat speedo to work, you will need to use a cable (a cable will thread right in place of the sensor if you have a newer trans). And use the reed switch in the gauge for the VSS.

This. I've done it on half a dozen subarus (of all gens....as long as they have frameless windows).