Numbchux

For sure, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, all use the correct 6 lug pattern. they are not all interchangeable due to center bore diameter. Also, the imports use a much higher back spacing than the Chevys. I have wheels designed for a Chevy on my 4Runner, and there's a LOT of tire outside the fender. I will be swapping them for some OEM Toyota alloys as soon as it is running. My Brat is running some OEM Toyota steel wheels, and they fit very nicely. Also, Chevy Uplander minivans, and the many variations of it, have 6 lug wheels, with more of a car offset. I'd like to get my hands on a set of those!

Doesn't matter. Most shops will not touch wheels that have been redrilled. Whether they're on the car or not. I've seen people run trailer wheels a few times. Nothing wrong with that part, but make sure you drill them after you get the tires mounted.

1. zzz 2. 3. It is considerably wider and longer than the engine bay. Plus the usual EJ swap stuff....

Negative. The T-leg LSDs actually have male stubs. Get a set, done. Talk to whoever you got the diff from, and separate them from the axles. If he doesn't have them, you'll have to get them from a T-leg with an LSD, as the splines in the diff are different than an open diff.

Read my post. I had +48s

also, no. All turbo EA82s had an LSD AVAILABLE, but virtually none of them actually had them. Only the RXs had them standard.

Picture doesn't work....so all we can do is speculate from the description

A skid plate with a hole big enough to do an oil change without removing, is useless as a skidplate. A jack isn't the way to pull a skidplate anyway, as it covers the jacking point. Just drive the car up on ramps (which I do for oil changes anyway), drop the plate, and change the oil. A little anti-seize on the bolts before they go back in, and you won't have any trouble when it comes time. This looks like a very well-built unit. We've got custom crossmembers and such on both of our rally cars, so they wouldn't work, but I'd be happy to run that setup on them.

Is there something wrong with it? I wouldn't do anything "preemptive". If it ain't broke.... If it needs a rebuild, it can be done. Synchro's are all serviceable, but I'd recommend having a shop do it. It'd be cheaper to just replace it, but worth the money to rebuild it if you want it to last a long time. No, can't be upgraded. Most of the internals are identical to the transmissions put behind the 2.2 from the factory, except the Low Range stuff....only way to beef that up, is to loose it. But it'll be fine. Yea, you could put 25 spline stubs in it....but, again.....if it ain't broke

Yep, that's exactly right.

^Yep, that's what it looks like to me. Toyota 8". And, it looks like that rear crossmember would swap right into a multilink AWD car (BEs/GEs). AND, with stuff like this going on, I imagine it won't be long before someone cracks one open and offers some aftermarket for it.

AT/MT Identification pin. Now the ECU knows it's got a 5MT. Neutral switch. Done.

Platform has nothing to do with it, not all Imprezas are the same width. GDs are wider than the GGs (wagon), GCs, GFs and legacies. One of the cars at 100 Acre Wood had GC axles in a GD (Christy Carlson)... broken axle shaft, cracked DOJ cup, and both axles seized in the diff. Did you actually compare them side by side? I'm not sure about foresters though, so if that's true, that's news to me...

ummm....no. Pretty sure GD sedans are wider than Foresters....

SPALs are nice. But FYI, straight-blade fans are VERY loud. We have a pair on the Ziptie Rally #171....I'd think twice before using them on a DD, depending on how much time you spend with the fan on.

I think there's something else mounted to that bracket. But yea, the black thing with the white cap and 2 vacuum lines going to it is a vacuum canister for the HVAC system (the doors that direct air to the different vents are vacuum actuated)

I thought he removed them as the racket from the heims is pretty annoying. Either way, we have TSS Fab lateral links on the Ziptie Rally #171. They're pretty sweet, but we got the car aligned, but one side was adjusted too far out, and it kept popping the axle out of the rear diff ('04 STi running gear). We adjusted them in, to solve the axle issue, and the camber was not effected. I would not use lateral links to try to adjust camber. You'll have axle issues before you fix your camber issue. Also.....those heim joints are SOOOOO loud. I would not want those on anything but a dedicated race car.

I just used the stock bulbs. Pulled the corner markers out, separated the wiring, and rewired it so the forward facing bulb was a dedicated turn signal, and the side facing bulb was dedicated parking light. The bulb was definitely lower wattage, as it made the system flash like a burned out but it was still plenty visible, and never got hassled by the jean d'armes about it. And then I had Fog/driving lights in the stock turn signal location.... Here's a write-up about converting the single-filament socket to a dual-filament socket for this exact purpose in a '80s Toyota. I bet it would work exactly the same in a subaru. http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TurnSignal.shtml

Yea, they are shorter. I was having issues bottoming out the stock struts at the height I was using, so I specifically looked for shorter ones. NB Miata front struts are almost identical, except they are like 3" longer. So if you're looking for stock height, that's an option. Check out Summit Racing brand springs, seem to be the cheapest option for 2.5" springs I've been able to found. Lots of options in length and spring rate. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Department/Chassis-Suspension/Section/Suspension-Components/Part-Type/Coil-Over-Springs/Brand/Summit-Racing/?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

Yes, I did actually run the Miata rears. They were used stock take offs, but they worked fine. they use a larger spring though, so you pretty much have to run sleeves. Search this section for threads started by me, there's a thread dedicated to the suspension on my Loyale.

Depends what you want. I had stock struts (which is essentially what GR2s are) with Ground-Control sleeves on my loyale, 250lb/in front, and 275 rear. I liked it, but it needed better dampening. I had found an application (NB Miata rears) that would allow KYB AGXs, but I think if I had gone any further, I would have found an application for Koni Yellow inserts. Before that, I had 450/500 sleeves (generic 2.75" ebay kit), which were positively terrible. That exact spring set ruined at least 3 sets of struts on 3 different cars, probably another since I sold them.... I'm currently running GR2s with WRX front springs and 250lb/in eibach springs (from Ground-Control). EA82s use a 2.5" ID spring in the rear, I've slapped coilover springs (10" long, IIRC) on stock struts in the back a few times. No sleeves necessary. And, I currently have 4 KYB Excel Gs, and a pair of Summit Racing coilover springs, 10"x2.5" 175lb/in, those, plus a pair of the old Ground-control adjustment sleeves and top hats will be going into my Celica this weekend.

I've carried them around a few times....probably 80ish lbs

IMO, these are an OEM-only (dealer, or junkyard) part. They have to be exactly the correct length and strength. If you're really in a pinch, and have no choice but to make do. It'll be a 1.25 thread pitch, probably 12mm diameter. A hardware store bolt will almost certainly have a 19mm head.

no. not even slightly. Leave it in and save yourself the headache.

Looks like both the screws that hold the trim to the door card AND the switch to the trim broke. Don't think I've ever seen that. I've had many of them break off the card though. Yep, junkyard or right here on the USMB. Throw up a post in the wanted section, and a little paypalling, and you'll have one on your doorstep. I'd be willing to bet I've got a few around, as that's something I would have saved from any cars I've parted out, but I've got no idea where they might be now.