Numbchux

Do you have the proper mounting brackets for the front lip? My first one didn't, and it's junk now....

I will probably use a pair of those on my Brat if the r160 locker doesn't come through by then. I've already got a front LSD, which will help in the more delicate situations. But when a wheel is completely off the ground, lock it with a line lock, and proceed.

Yea, 5MT stubs are held in with a snapring on the inside. Don't think there's any way to get to them without opening up the transmission, which will be very hard with an axle cup stuck on the driver's side...

depends what car you're talking about. Transmission mounts and length are determined by the center diff housing. So if you use an EA82 housing/center diff, you will have EA82 mounts, and EA82 length.

Nice write-up! 3 things. That doesn't look any easier than the Nissan option, except Nissans are far more common than old accords. Just make sure you use 240SX calipers, not 200SX, if you're not running XT6 rotors/backing plates. Also, I used Subaru Legacy handle and cables, no custom cables needed. And, about cable routing. It's not an issue in your car, as it's FWD. But cutting holes, and having the cables drop down through the tunnel will cause clearance issues with the driveshaft. That's how I did it in my Loyale, too, and the driveshaft would rub on the cables under hard accel. The next time I do it, I will run the cable straight back, and through the bulkhead under the back seat.

Well, to make the fuel side of it work properly, you will still need timing, MAF, TPS, 02, etc. Basically, if you were to go that far, all you'd need to do to have the ECU control ignition, is the wires for the ignitor and coil (6?). You're doing 90% of the work, and then adding in some extra complexity at the last minute. And, if the ignition-related stuff isn't hooked up, the ECU will know that, and may not even give it any fuel.

yea, those carrier bearing mounts didn't work out so hot. Not very solid, and not in the correct place, so I chewed through a couple bearings. I then had an EA81 1-piece driveshaft modified for length to work in there, and it's been running awesome ever since! Drilled and tapped mustache bar mounts have held up wonderfully as well. Probably 5ish years, and easily 50k miles. It's still on the road today.

I wouldn't run a 225 on an EA82 without some serious fender pulling. And 53 offset might be too high, even with a 7" wide wheel.

Got it from a yard in the cities, not the one here in Duluth.

I bought a non-turbo PT4WD D/R trans this weekend. Which SHOULD mean I have everything I need to assemble the trans. Theoretically the ring gear will need some machining, but I have the complete trans, so I will have the 3.9 gear for comparing. The stub axles will have to be modified, but since they will have circlips like the 4EAT, they can be installed after the trans is put back together. Pics to come tomorrow. I will be tearing this trans apart ASAP.

yep. That lower port is a little higher up than the EJ ones (hence using the Outback lower hose). Lots of 5MT versions, although most aftermarket companies (Performance radiator for sure) supersede the AT version, and just supply the rad with plugs for the trans cooler.

The stock computer will adjust the fuel a little bit. In that the AFM will open more and therefore it'll put in a little more fuel. EA82s have a distributor, so it's possible the timing has been adjusted a bit to improve things. Truth be told, if it has the stock turbo, it can't be turned up very much. These cars didn't come with an intercooler, and there is a pressure drop across an intercooler, so it's possible that it's not seeing much, if any, extra pressure at the engine (just a cooler charge). That said, the EA82t is one of the most unreliable engines subaru ever made. It has pretty poor cooling capacity, likes to pop head gaskets, and such. I would not say to run away screaming. But without seeing it or knowing the owner, I would not consider it to be a reliable daily driver AS-IS. There are a number of reliable EA82ts out there, but there are more basket cases. I don't know the market where you are, but I would pay a grand or more for a solid chassis, with a well-built lift, tight suspension, and decent tires. Then throw a dual range transmission in there, and an EJ22....and you'll have one of the most reliable and cheap to run subarus out there!

I'm up the hill far enough, that things haven't been too bad. There's one spot at the end of my alley where the sidewalk was torn up to run a fiber optic line, and the water eroded it into a big hole. Other than that, things weren't too bad. BUT, I definitely was wishing the 4runner was ready for commuter duty. I made a pretty nasty water crossing in my celica at the bank the night before (the same bank seen from a jet ski in this video)

Yep, my friend's '95 impreza LX has the same thing. They didn't even paint over the fresh cut, so they're all rusted to hell. We just welded some D-rings to the outside of the frame horns so he could get it dyno'd. They're very solid, but the bumper cover usually gets crunched when they get used as tow points.

I got hoses for a '98 Outback (Outback, because with the subframe spacers, the lower hose has a slightly different bend in it since the engine sits lower. Other EJ cross-flow lower hoses will fit, but not quite as well). I'm not sure if they went to vertical flow by 2003, but that could effect it. The Loyale radiator is also key. '80s EA82 rads have the lower output coming out of the end tank with a pretty steep angle upward, but '90-'94 Loyale rads have the lower port coming straight out.

Height wouldn't matter. I don't know the offset of stock WRX wheels, so there might be some extra to be gained, but probably not enough to clear the suspension without having body issues. 17x8 +48: with 215/45r17s, rolled, but not pulled

I put a set of Kumho VictoRacers (probably oversized) in a 225/55r16 on factory 16x6.5s. They rubbed on the trailing arm something fierce. I don't know what the offset on those is, so you might be ok

Muffler on (needs another hanger...but close). So I took it for a little test-drive. Not running 100%. Not a lot of power, it bogs down more than a bit, but it does OK. It's got a few vacuum lines that aren't connected, and the 02 sensor isn't connected, so I'll get those issues fixed, and see where it's at then. Also, I don't think I'm getting anywhere near full travel out of the throttle plate. Need to look into that. But, getting closer still

This arrived today, and I did the paperwork and money exchange to get collector plates. It will be ready for a test-drive very soon!

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. The radiator is not the weak link in the EA82 cooling system. I daily drove my EJ22 loyale on the stock, 180k mile, single-row radiator with no fans for most of the year. Just had to watch it when you're going less than 20mph or so (I live in an area where stop and go traffic is non existent). When that radiator finally corroded it's way to pieces (pull-through aftermarket fan mounts put a few nails in that coffin), I switched to an all-metal one from performance radiator: https://shop.performanceradiator.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1_32557_32785_32786_32787&product_id=10879 Stock Outback hoses, with a spacer at each end to make up the difference in diameter. Done.

Turbo Loyales would have come with the AWD 4EAT just like the EJs.

not really. there is a fuse holder in the engine bay to disconnect the transfer clutches (power only goes to the front), but all the moving parts are still there, and releasing the transfer clutches is done with more hydraulic pressure, so you won't see any change in mileage, just a loss of traction. You could actually remove the rear axles, diff, and rear section of the driveshaft, but that would still only make for marginal gains. Not worth the work, IMO. Ditch the auto if you want to improve your mileage.

True, but xt6 backing plates are bigger (bigger discs) which means the ebrake arm will clear the trailing arm. Check my write up in the USRM on the topic. Lots o pictures.