Numbchux

I just dropped in to grab that part number. Thought I'd mention that the Carbonetic font diff has shipped (not to my house, unfortunately), going to order the font R&P now. Still need to find that low range set.

Please no. The title says it's about the 6-lug conversion, but the first half of the posts talk about trailer wheels. Followed by some discussion on what backspacing and offset are. It's a fine thread, which has answered many questions for you about your situation. But it will not make very good future reference for someone else.

Update: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/rallymatt/easier-said-than-done/posts/213990

huh....I wonder if that's the issue with my 4runner. Signal wire from a signal converter to a digital dash that used to get it's signal directly from the coil.... We tried that with the GL-10 that was just for sale here in Superior. I'm confident I got the signal wire hooked up correctly, but it did not work.

1st Gen Legacies were available with air suspension if you're attached to it. Not common, but probably not any more rare than EA82 air struts....Not only would you gain camber adjustment, but better ackerman angle, and virtually infinite options for brakes. Simply swapping to EJ knuckles/struts in my XT6s has drastically changed the handling for the better. Something I have considered, is to redrill the crossmember like that, but to raise that inner pivot, which would help the roll center when lowered. But, once 5-lugged, there are roll-center correction kits available. No need to get defensive. I don't see any negative posts. Just some people asking why you chose what you did, and not something else. I like what you've done, and have done some of that too (the caster spacers). But there are a couple things I would do and have done differently. It's great that you're happy with it, so you wouldn't need to change it, but there's definitely still room for improvement.

Thanks for the insight, Eulogious. XT6s use a 3.9 4EAT, as to the 1st gen Legacies. So that aspect will be fine. Maybe I'll try it with the stock speedo first. But I still suspect the calibration might be an issue. In which case.....I'd rather have AWD work than a speedometer Yours was the situation I was thinking of. although I'm thinking of doing the the exact opposite, so EJ TCU and EA (or ER, technically) 4EAT. Since the ER transmission isn't looking for another notch. Maybe just put a SPDT switch instead of the 1 hold button. So once the shifter is in 2nd, the switch can select 1st OR 2nd.

I'm bumping this back up, as I'm planning on patching my XT6 together to be an SCCA Rallycross car. I have a couple questions/confirmations. This is mostly for Eulogious, but I submit it for public opinion, in case someone else has some insight. I don't want to bother with the paddle shifters or center diff mod. That stuff is awesome for a lot of uses, but for rallyX, I pretty much just need 1st and 2nd gears. I would like to go to the EJ TCU. I have a '91 Legacy AWD TCU and plugs here. The wiring side doesn't scare me. I also have a 2/3 Tach Signal modifier, as I was hoping to put a 4-cyl digi dash in this car. I have used this same modifier in a 3.3RS, so I know the simulated output is similar to the EJ signal. I'm thinking it should substitute for your signal clipper. For the AWD issue. Since I don't want to mess with the code. I'm thinking I might just grab an EJ VSS from a car with an electronic speedo. I'll gladly sacrifice the functionality of the stock speedo for working AWD. I know the electronic VSS can replace the cable on a manual transmission....hopefully the same is true with the 4EAT. That should give the TCU the VSS1 signal it's looking for. Question about the functionality. Does the Manual mode still work? And does the 1 hold button work like it should? Since the EJ system actually has another notch on the shifter and on the transmission, I'm concerned that I won't be able to select and hold 1st just by using the button on the XT6.

I knew where the valves would float on all my EA82s. my '85 was about 6200 (tired motor was tired) the others were all more like 6800ish. not that bad for it.

This is an extremely cool project taken on by former rally America competitor and National Geographic photographer Matt Johnston. He's been very active in the rally community for many years. Check out the RallyAmericaSeries YouTube channel, and you'll see him covering many events. This is an amazing project. Please take the time to read his info, watch the teaser trailer, and support. Remember, just passing along the word is a great way to support. Facebook, Twitter, and other discussion boards are great ways to pass the word along to fellow rally enthusiasts.

Check the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual. I posted a chart there with pretty much every EA8x transmission listed.

Strut extensions. IMO the best way to do it. I helped design them, and a friend machined them. They're turned down from solid steel....probably the strongest thing on the rig.

few pics of the 6-lug conversion on my brat rear disc hubs

When you select your make model and engine, do not assume you will automatically get only parts for your car. What makes RockAuto different, is they show you every bit of information that they get from the manufacturer. So you'll find dimensions, body styles, etc in the description. I've seen parts listed under an EA81 that said OHC in the description. And no, no factory EA82 brats. All that said, judging from the pictures and part numbers on there, it looks like the 85 brat listing is correct. 8818PT matches other EA81 cars, and a 94 loyale shows a 9392PT. So maybe they just shipped you the wrong part.... does the part number on the package match your invoice

like what? I can't think of a single similarity specifically with a 257

False. Most EJ20"t" engines are open deck. I don't know all the jdm versions, but 205s for sure. I think 20Gs and Hs.

Subarus run a relatively high offset. Don't think I've ever seen a 6-lug wheel with too much offset. Stock '86+ toyota 15s are 4.5" BS, and that's what I have on my brat, if I can find something more like 5", I'd be all over that (why I would love to find an uplander in a junkyard!). I think Isuzu runs higher BS than the toyota. Now that I'm not on my phone....pics: Hatch + trailer wheels + swampers = my brat with stock '86 4Runner steelies:

For sure, Chevy, Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, all use the correct 6 lug pattern. they are not all interchangeable due to center bore diameter. Also, the imports use a much higher back spacing than the Chevys. I have wheels designed for a Chevy on my 4Runner, and there's a LOT of tire outside the fender. I will be swapping them for some OEM Toyota alloys as soon as it is running. My Brat is running some OEM Toyota steel wheels, and they fit very nicely. Also, Chevy Uplander minivans, and the many variations of it, have 6 lug wheels, with more of a car offset. I'd like to get my hands on a set of those!

Doesn't matter. Most shops will not touch wheels that have been redrilled. Whether they're on the car or not. I've seen people run trailer wheels a few times. Nothing wrong with that part, but make sure you drill them after you get the tires mounted.

1. zzz 2. 3. It is considerably wider and longer than the engine bay. Plus the usual EJ swap stuff....

Negative. The T-leg LSDs actually have male stubs. Get a set, done. Talk to whoever you got the diff from, and separate them from the axles. If he doesn't have them, you'll have to get them from a T-leg with an LSD, as the splines in the diff are different than an open diff.

Read my post. I had +48s

also, no. All turbo EA82s had an LSD AVAILABLE, but virtually none of them actually had them. Only the RXs had them standard.

Picture doesn't work....so all we can do is speculate from the description

A skid plate with a hole big enough to do an oil change without removing, is useless as a skidplate. A jack isn't the way to pull a skidplate anyway, as it covers the jacking point. Just drive the car up on ramps (which I do for oil changes anyway), drop the plate, and change the oil. A little anti-seize on the bolts before they go back in, and you won't have any trouble when it comes time. This looks like a very well-built unit. We've got custom crossmembers and such on both of our rally cars, so they wouldn't work, but I'd be happy to run that setup on them.

Is there something wrong with it? I wouldn't do anything "preemptive". If it ain't broke.... If it needs a rebuild, it can be done. Synchro's are all serviceable, but I'd recommend having a shop do it. It'd be cheaper to just replace it, but worth the money to rebuild it if you want it to last a long time. No, can't be upgraded. Most of the internals are identical to the transmissions put behind the 2.2 from the factory, except the Low Range stuff....only way to beef that up, is to loose it. But it'll be fine. Yea, you could put 25 spline stubs in it....but, again.....if it ain't broke