Numbchux

From the 1988 Toyota FSM. 22RE should operate at 33-37psi From the 1992 and 1998 Subaru FSMs. EJ should operate at 36.3 psi Non-turbo EJs require a minimum of 80 lph (21gph) of volume, per the FSM. I could not find a similar specification in the Toyota FSMs that I have.... So yea, they should be perfect

I don't really follow what number goes with what, but something doesn't make sense there. Neither pump is capable of putting out 60psi. Both engines require about 45psi (I had to ditch the 22RE pump to supply my 4.3 with the 60psi that it needed), and I would imagine the volume to be quite similar.

You're right on the money with the center diff. It will bolt right up to the XT6 front case. It will require an EJ mount. And it will require a shortened driveshaft. Shift linkage will be slightly different, but it's close enough to work (shift lever will be angled a little closer to the dash un-modified). The clutch might be possible, but I don't think it's been done. EJ and EA/ER pressure plates and flywheels are pretty different. I don't think it would be possible to use that clutch kit on an EA/ER flywheel, and the EJ flywheel will not engage the starter correctly. You might be able to mod the starter/mounts to solve that problem, but it won't be easy. 75 mph with stock XT6 gears (3.90 and .780 5th) on stock XT6 tires (23.7"), 3234 rpms. Change to EJ AWD 5MT gears (4.111 and .783 5th) only bumps it up to 3422. about 200 rpm change. Jump to EJ sized tires, and you gain it back (205/55r16s = 24.9" = 3257 rpms). I loved the 4.111s in my '88 XT6. That engine never ran right, and I still got better mileage then my '89 4EAT which ran beautifully.

I have one, but it was original equipment in my '87 4Runner SR5.... But, here's a page about it, and how to modify it to a more useful range (30 degress is still VERY safe): http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Clinometer.shtml The Altimeter is a mechanical one (uses barometric pressure), so you have to set it every time you want to use it, which means you need an accurate reference. Kind of a neat gismo, but in reality, not very useful. Especially since I've always got a GPS unit when wheeling.... Here's what I did. I got some nasty comments on some of the toyota boards for hacking up an original inclinometer, but, oh well. I think it's awesome!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/96433-axle-rebuild/

Yea, we have stability control on our company vehicles at work, it drives me nuts. They have an "off" button, but it's not completely "off". But, like I said, I'll be pulling an ABS sensor to kill that system, so maybe it won't be an issue, as long as the AWD system works like it should at that point. "Require" isn't the correct word. But....that said, I HATE leather, and with the amount/type of stuff that gets hauled in my cars, I worry that stains would be a major issue with tan/beige. Also, I think the LLBean 2-tone is hideous...lol According to Cars101.... Part of 2003, there was an H6 wagon, which was a base Outback with the H6, and a couple other things (climate control, leather steering wheel, body color mirrors/handles). This model with a blue or silver exterior had a grey cloth interior. I think this is exactly what I'm looking for, but a pretty small window, and I'd like to open up my options. 2004 had a similar option, called the 35th anniversary edition, but this was only available with beige cloth. The VDC models with black or titanium (03-04) exterior had grey leather interior. This would mean just a seat and door card swap to ditch the leather. A beige interior car would mean at the very least carpet swap just to be functional, and other interior panels and possibly dash to match. The seat airbag thing is very interesting. Keeping the front airbags working is important. So that's something to think about. The engine swap option has crossed my mind. And I haven't ruled it out....but I'm not loving it. Don't really need another project car. Don't really want my girlfriend's DD to be a swap car. Can't really afford the down time.

The VDC ones had the dual sunroofs too. And at least there's a prayer of getting one with a gray interior. Then I'd only have to swap out the seats and door cards, instead of the entire.

So I got a screaming deal on a BH Outback with a 4-cyl. I'm debating what to do with it, specifically.....I'm debating whether it's worth it to flip it and hold out for what we really want, which is an H6 version. So, how is it? Is it really intrusive? Can it be disabled? When I un-plug an ABS sensor to disable the ABS system, will the VDC system freak out (I assume it won't work at that point). I see on cars101.com that the VDC models have VTD (variable torque distribution) AWD....so if I disable all the aids, will it screw up the AWD? My girlfriend and I both have a lot of experience ice racing, and can control the car in a slide, so I would very much prefer that it didn't have any of that garbage. But if a VDC model could be modified to work (like swapping in cloth interior), that would drastically open up our options for new cars.

I've got 2 years on the kit I got at wal-mart on my '92 Celica. I've had to recharge it every spring, but it holds through the entire summer. I might try a better recharge that has some stop-leak stuff in it this year. It might not be the "correct" way, but it seems to work great, at least for a few years.

Yea, if you're trying to drive straight up a loading ramp or something When picking a line through the rocks, you want to line your tires up with the tallest obstacles, I've seen many rigs (usually Jeep YJs) get all lined up so their tires are up on top of the rocks, keeping the vulnerable stuff in the middle up out of it, just to get hung up on spring hangers. I also have zero ability to fab at my house. Not only do I not trust my own welds, but I have to run a 75' extension cord to get power out to the parking slab. That's ok for a drill or even grinder, but I'm not running a welder out there. And I don't want to take on that kind of project in someone elses shop space. So bolt-on is a huge plus.

I don't think the Walbro's are worth nearly the money they sell for. They are loud. They put out WAY more volume than is needed for this application, and no more pressure than stock (which, IMO is the way to go with big power builds). Stock replacements aren't cheap, but you know it'll fit just like stock, and have a warranty and such. That's probably what I'd do. But, if you're willing to do some legwork to find a cheaper alternative. You can use almost any inline pump designed for fuel injection. The pressure is normal FI range (45ish psi, IIRC), and the volume requirement is actually pretty low. I got one online for an early '80s Ford Grand-squire wagon a few years ago for an EJ swap, and it worked perfectly, and only cost like $30. IMO, redundant fuel pumps is not worth the trouble or cost. Like GLoyale said, grab a used one and carry it as a spare if you are worried.

Not much of a build thread, but I thought I'd post something. I just got a screaming deal on this car. I wanted an H6 version to be my girlfriend's next DD, so we might flip this one for market value, and look for an H6 one. Although, we don't want leather or VDC, and that combo is pretty rare, so we might just hang onto this....I don't know. Anyway, highlights. 2003 Outback, All-weather pack (standard in 2003), 4EAT, Dealer-installed trailer hitch, Subaru hitch-mounted bike rack, Dealer maintenance for the first owner (up to about 70k miles), then no documentation except brakes at 75k. It now has 105k on it, and has been a little neglected and beat in the last 30k or so. It was due for a timing belt, so I did that today (acc belts were original too). Interesting observation, I bought a Duralast (Dayco) component kit, and the tensioner had the OEM part number stamped on it. Pretty sweet. I also did air filter and spark plugs. Front tires are pretty worn out, and when I went to rotate them, I noticed that one tire is mounted backwards! It's got some hail damage, primarily on the hood. The grille is busted up, and the center tail light section is too. And it's got a bunch of scratches and scrapes all over it. But virtually zero rust. So I'll be watching the local junkyards in search of a good hood in color. Going to do an oil change, and trans drain/fill/filter tomorrow. And we're planning to take it on a camping trip up to Houghton, MI next weekend!

Nope, I hate how much they hang down. Front spring hanger is a crucial location for ground clearance, so I didn't want to push it any further forward. I got a deal on a set of brand-new Skyjacker 3" lift springs, stock length. I might take a leaf out of them before I use them...but I'm not sure yet.

Overdue for an update.... Bedliner 2-tone: Interior mods. Kenwood MP3/CD deck and CB radio: One interior handle moved up by the driver's seat (no more hanging on the steering wheel while climbing in), and Mag light mount in it's place: Took it wheeling. Only got a few decent pics And, sold my Outback, so I bought tires (as you may recall, I have a land cruiser rear axle, which has full float hubs, drum-in-disc brakes, and selectable locker. But requires 16" wheels to clear). 315/75r16 GoodYear Wrangler DuraTracs. Almost identical outside dimensions as the 35x12.5r15s, but narrower wheels and more backspacing suck them in under the body more. Now I just need a caliper, gear oil, and leaf spring perches to put my new leaf springs and rear axle under this thing!!

At Autozone, no need for the receipt, just need to remember a phone number. Also, you can get new ones as long as you own the vehicle.

All Cardone Remanufactured parts have a lifetime warranty. In that case, they're relying on you selling the car before they have to replace it more than a couple times. The Duralast Gold CVs are NOT Cardone, or Remanufactured at all. They are definitely a much better quality. I'm very tempted to use them the next time I need axles.

Absolutely. The imprezas of similar vintage were more commonly available without rear sway bars, so make sure you get a set of lateral links with sway bar mounts, but anything designed for a '93-'01 Impreza will fit your car.

Alright, I'll offer what I can. This project sounds like a nightmare, but more power to you if you can make it work!! There are a lot of electrical changes throughout the whole life of the EJ engine series. But my expertise is primarily '90-99. Some of this will apply to some of the newer stuff, but anything '02+ and factory turbo is going to be a completely different can of worms. I also have no experience with jdm setups. 1. There were 2 or 3 different combinations for OBD I. I know the early OBD II (96-99) harnesses are all the same. I think 95 is the same on the engine side. I know the later OBD I engine harness will actually plug into the OBD II ones, but I do not know if the pinouts are the same. 2. MAF, Ignitor, O2. On OBDI harnesses, crank, cam and knock sensors. on OBD II there is a MAP and vacuum solenoid (I believe it's canister purge, though) on the strut tower that also do not run through the engine. 3. IMO, yes 4. Only way I know of is used. Donor/junkyard cars. 5. I don't quite follow this question. An EJ swap requires what the management it's running off requires. And since this thread is about custom ground-up management, that is dependent on the program/tune within that management 6. Individually. Separate signal wires 7. Not sure off the top of my head. I know this stuff has been documented on the megasquirt sites. Crank sprocket teeth did not change from 1990 until the PZEV models in the 2000s 8. Really no clue. see 7 My $.02 on the project. I don't know much about microprocessors and programming. But my main concern about a universal management for "all" EJ swaps, is the tune. I don't think there's any chance to have a base tune that can hold a candle to an OEM tune. You might be able to program some auto-tune features into it, but I think ultimately each application will require a professional tune to get close to OEM performance. This custom-tune will not likely yield almost any extra power. I know the technology in the hardware has improved immensely, but I still find it very unlikely that an open-source low-budget option will have the software quality that Subaru put out.

Old subarus do have a very tight maximum steering angle.... But, they don't have to eat CVs. OEM ones can easily last 200k miles if the grease/boots are cared-for

I got $400 for the complete motor out of my '96 EJ25D. Guy I sold it to, got $250 for just the heads. These all needed rebuilding before use

This. That arm is what keep the wheel centered in the wheel well (front to back). That is my first thought. Ball joint is also my next thought. +1 to what Gary said. CV boot is no indication of anything else. If it was the wrong axle (EJ, or EA 25 spline) it would not have been able to drive out of the shop.... Also, tell the alignment tech to look at some factory specs before he runs his mouth off. OEM on EA82 subarus is positive camber. It is extremely strange, and a person would be correct with probably 99% of vehicles that negative is correct, but not here. Sounds like you need to go somewhere else. I don't know anything about Les Schwab (don't have them here...), but it sounds like you're getting screwed.

What it sounds like is happening: Your next step:

Not all aftermarket axles are alike. For a brand-new one, I could see that being normal-ish, if not a little low. For a remanufactured one, that sounds impossibly high. I've had a 100% failure rate within one year on remanufactured CV axles (note: I've never used a genuine Subaru remanufactured axle).

Call them. If they sent you the part number that's listed as correct, but it isn't. This isn't RockAuto's error, this is a manufacturer/catalog error. Tell them exactly what you just posted, and I bet you'll get exactly what you need. If that happened to one of MY customers, I'd refund 2 of them, and exchange all of them for 2 of a better brand (so you'd end up paying for one pair, and getting a better pair).

This is dead on. I work at an auto parts store. We use RockAuto ALL the time for reference. Best listings anywhere, if you use your head a little while using them. They are, however, a large network of distributors and warehouses. It's highly likely that you will get some NOS stuff that's been around awhile. Of course, this is possible anywhere. We ordered a pair of CV axles for my friend's '88 VW Scirrocco at work and the boxes looked like they're at least 15 years old. Heck, I've gotten some ancient packaging ordering straight from the dealer. My point is, it's absolutely possible. And I don't think there's a reliable way to prevent that entirely. RockAuto probably has more turnover than almost any other source, but they also probably have more inventory. Smaller sources might have fresher inventory, but they also will have less turnover, so there's just as much a chance of getting something that's been sitting around awhile. One thing I will say, is always inspect your products thoroughly when you receive them, and if anything looks fishy, don't bicker and badmouth on the internet CALL THEM. RockAuto has excellent customer service, and if they sent you something wrong, be it a human error, catalog error, shipping error, etc. In my experience (I've ordered from them probably 30 times or more) they will go way out of their way to make it right.