Numbchux

That. Is. Cool!!!!

Cars usually only have a couple wiring harness made for them, regardless of the combination of options it actually had. So extra plugs aren't a bad thing. They could be for A/C, cruise control, and a host of other things. Yep, that larger black connector by the strut tower is the diagnostic connector. It can be used to test a number of systems, but under normal circumstances, unplugged is fine. Looks like that hose by the washer pump is just a drain. Hopefully someone else can help you with those vacuum lines. Carbed EA82s are a nightmare in that department......

I don't have one anymore that I could measure, but from memory, it's probably 1.5"-2". It's considerable....Most DIN head units are about the same depth, and those adapters are designed for it.

Ugh. First year in 5 that I've missed it....

Yea, came with a 2 or 3" body lift that was all tied together to make a pseudo subframe, and 4WD. They're rare, and I think only sold in Europe.

They are equivalent. The turbo legacy caliper brackets are slightly different, and require different pads (which are unique to the t-leg, drastically limiting your pad options). I love the 276mm 2-piston setup. I've used it on several cars, and with good pads, it's as much brake as you'd ever want for street use. Although, the 292mm 2-piston is pretty sweet. We've got an 03 Outback with those (stock) and they're pretty nice. And with a little work with a grinder on the calipers, I was able to get 15" wheels to fit.

I've had these wheels on my XT6s too, but no decent pics

The loyale would be solely for a DD. So as long as it isn't slower than my 1.6l auto trans Celica, I'm ok with that. I've done several 2.2 swaps, so I know the potential. I have a 2.2 harness (1.8 doesn't have a knock sensor), so a 2.2 swap would be plug and play. What's wrong with the loyale engine? it's an EA82. As I mentioned, I hate them. And it will come out if I buy the car. That's an interesting idea, and would be easier to do, as it would be almost no wiring in the loyale. The simplicity of SPFI and pushrods is much more appealing in an offroad rig, but the EJ18 would definitely have more oomph. Looking back on my lifted EA82 rigs, I very rarely wished that they had more power. My wishes were lockers, gears, and suspension travel. I've addressed all 3 (sort of, the gearing difference will mostly be noticeable in high range...) with this rig.

So, I have everything I need to do an EJ18 swap into my Brat (that's getting the 4.444 D/R project trans). A friend of mine has a '92 Loyale in good shape that he's offering to sell me for cheap. I hate EA82s, so I'm thinking that will come out, but I don't really want to source and buy another EJ swap. So I'm thinking, put the EJ18 in the Loyale, with my adapter and the S/R PT4WD trans would make for a sweet, fuel-efficient DD. Then put the SPFI stuff on the low mileage jdm EA81 block that came with my brat, and put it in there with my 4.444 trans (EA82 front bellhousing, should bolt right to the EA81 block). That would be a sweet, reliable combination, great for the trails. Thoughts? Also, my main question is how difficult it would be to take the stock loyale harness out, and split it into 2 functioning harnesses, one that could still run the loyale with the EJ swap, and the other for engine controls with the SPFI. Or would it be worth my dollars to source (ugh) a second loyale harness for one or the other.

Bump. I'm considering this swap, and I knew the write-up was out there, and now the link is dead. I thought I saved it to my computer too, but I can't find it. EDIT: Never mind, found it!!! http://www.leoneturbo.com/docs/EA81_SPI_guide.pdf

That's certainly more amperage than your alternator can put at alone, but with the engine running, the battery should be able to deal with that for a few minutes at a time. A Yellow top battery would be best for this as they are designed for medium load for extended time, rather than the short bursts of large load (700+ amps) that a red top specializes in. But whatever you use, you will need a very large wire running the length of the car. And for best performance, a dedicated ground wire all the way to the battery would be best. Look into automotive audio wiring kits. They will have a very long, very large wire, with a beefy fuse that might get you on the right track. Or you can get the wire alone almost anywhere with any welding supplies. You're also going to want a beefy disconnect so you can unplug it when not in use (basically any 4WD supply source has these). A dual battery setup would be sweet, but IMO overkill for what you are doing.

Bah, come on guys. What ever happened to that sticky about not answering if you don't know?! A 4-cyl (XT or otherwise) and 6-cyl engine crossmembers have completely different bolt spacing (front to back) than each other. They are not a bolt-in replacement. If you were to lay the 2 crossmembers next to each other, the XT6 one would be much "wider" (across it's narrowest horizontal dimension, which would be front-to-back in the car), this is why the XT6 sway bar is shaped differently, and pulls the end links back and a funny angle when used on an EA82 car. Now, I have not swapped them (personally...I don't see the point. You have the engine bay for an EG33.....but each to their own), but knowing that the control arm mount is near the rear. And the basic geometry (leading rod mounts, transmission crossmember, etc.) is all the same from a 4-cyl, I suspect the rearward hole would line up correctly, and the front hole on the crossmember would not reach to the bolt through the framerail. So I suspect one could use the 4-cyl crossmember as a template to drill 2 new holes in the frame rail, and from there everything would bolt up. This would probably be considerably easier than notching the XT6 crossmember.

Assuming your 2.2 is a phase 2, the intake manifold should swap right over and make the project very easy. In that case, I would definitely go with the 2.5.

Well, since you are dumping oil in at the top of the valve cover, it takes some time for it to settle in to the oil pan. The trip to the store re-circulated it, and was not likely long enough to get it up to temperature, so it would have taken some time for it to settle in the pan again. The 75 mile trip, however, was enough to get the oil up to operating temperature, so it settled almost immediately once the engine was off. That does seem like more than a quart difference, but not impossible. Really, the only other explanation I can think of, is that there is another fluid getting in the oil that was not there before......which would probably mean the head gasket blew on that 75 mile trip.

Here's a sweet picture of my '85 with those fog lights (I think they were likely a dealer-installed part, as the wiring was not integrated within the main harness). The lights themselves were junk, and never even made the trip home (that pic was from the for sale ad), but I used the switch and wiring with some aftermarket lights for some time after that, and then on a couple other subarus.

Launching an AWD turbo car is a skill, to say the least. And it has been covered many times over the years in many different formats. I did a few searches, and didn't come up with much, so I'll give a basic overview here. I think there was an excellent article in one of the old Subiesport magazines....I'll see if I can dig it up and post it. Fastest way off the line on pavement in an AWD turbo car involves letting the clutch slip a bit. You need to keep the rpms up enough so that you can continue to build boost. If you let the clutch out too quickly, the rpms will drop too much, and the turbo will not be able to spool (I suspect what you are feeling now). There are ways around that. Launch control/antilag will help build boost without any load on the engine (this can be tuned into the stock ECU on older cars....I would imagine it can on the newer ones too). This is what you're seeing when you see a built AWD drag car, or Global Rallycross car launch. But it's very hard on the drivetrain.

The rear spindle (end of the axle, that the hub rides on) needs to go in towards the center of the car to come out of the bearing. So it is possible to leave it attached to the axle if the outer roll pin will not come out. If it's the inner roll pin, at the diff, I'm afraid you're in for a bit of a fight. Make sure you have a good 3/16s punch, not a screwdriver or anything, and a good heavy hammer. Heat and chemicals help a little, but at the end of the day, just sheer grunt. If it doesn't come off, you can disassemble the inner joint on the axle and maybe get enough room to get things apart that way, but then you have to rebuild the axle, as you assemble the suspension when you go to put everything back together.....yuck. And yea, getting the spindle out of the bearing. Big hammer. The end of the spindle has a bit on the end that's not threaded, so go to town. I have mushroomed them out enough that I couldn't get the nut back on, but an angle grinder made quick work of that, lots of room to avoid the threads.

Sounds like a massive post-MAF air leak. Reminds me exactly of a swap I did when I first started it up and didn't have the IAC hose hooked up at all. Sounds like you've done some excellent diagnosis. What has happened since this engine ran well? You mention fixing your timing belt...was this after the swap? Did it run well before the timing belt job? What wiring issues did you fix? Also....what engine? EJs have been made for more than 20 years. It'd be nice to narrow that down a bit....

In no particular order.... 1.)(far west metro)David Wray's shop is in Buffalo, so it's a bit of a haul. But he has something like 30-35 years experience with Subarus and is a GREAT guy. 2.)(south metro)RS Motors is in Burnsville off of 13 and just west of 35w. Matt and Ronnie know their stuff with Subarus and can take care of ANY issue NP. 3.)(far east metro, lol)Subaru Surgeons. I've heard a ton of good reviews about these guys! 4.)(central/west metro)Morries Minnetonka. Brian P. and Ben P. are awesome Subie Techs and are VERY knowledgeable! Ask for one of them specifically! 5.)(north/northeast metro)Devoted Auto. I've heard quite a few good reviews on them also! I believe their location is White Bear.

Regular paint can and will insulate the cooler. But Radiator paint does exist (never seen it.....used it on a friend's build but I'm not sure where he got it), and will prevent that problem.

From the 1988 Toyota FSM. 22RE should operate at 33-37psi From the 1992 and 1998 Subaru FSMs. EJ should operate at 36.3 psi Non-turbo EJs require a minimum of 80 lph (21gph) of volume, per the FSM. I could not find a similar specification in the Toyota FSMs that I have.... So yea, they should be perfect

I don't really follow what number goes with what, but something doesn't make sense there. Neither pump is capable of putting out 60psi. Both engines require about 45psi (I had to ditch the 22RE pump to supply my 4.3 with the 60psi that it needed), and I would imagine the volume to be quite similar.

You're right on the money with the center diff. It will bolt right up to the XT6 front case. It will require an EJ mount. And it will require a shortened driveshaft. Shift linkage will be slightly different, but it's close enough to work (shift lever will be angled a little closer to the dash un-modified). The clutch might be possible, but I don't think it's been done. EJ and EA/ER pressure plates and flywheels are pretty different. I don't think it would be possible to use that clutch kit on an EA/ER flywheel, and the EJ flywheel will not engage the starter correctly. You might be able to mod the starter/mounts to solve that problem, but it won't be easy. 75 mph with stock XT6 gears (3.90 and .780 5th) on stock XT6 tires (23.7"), 3234 rpms. Change to EJ AWD 5MT gears (4.111 and .783 5th) only bumps it up to 3422. about 200 rpm change. Jump to EJ sized tires, and you gain it back (205/55r16s = 24.9" = 3257 rpms). I loved the 4.111s in my '88 XT6. That engine never ran right, and I still got better mileage then my '89 4EAT which ran beautifully.

I have one, but it was original equipment in my '87 4Runner SR5.... But, here's a page about it, and how to modify it to a more useful range (30 degress is still VERY safe): http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Clinometer.shtml The Altimeter is a mechanical one (uses barometric pressure), so you have to set it every time you want to use it, which means you need an accurate reference. Kind of a neat gismo, but in reality, not very useful. Especially since I've always got a GPS unit when wheeling.... Here's what I did. I got some nasty comments on some of the toyota boards for hacking up an original inclinometer, but, oh well. I think it's awesome!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/96433-axle-rebuild/