Numbchux

Still accurate, but this being an '84 would be an EA81. The stock oil pressure gauge is not very accurate. I'd want a better reading before condemning it to failure. It's possible you have an oil pump issue, but might not. Typical rule of thumb for warm oil pressure, is 10psi per 1k rpms. So you're pretty close.... The running issue could just be a tuneup. Plugs, wires, Distributor cap/rotor, fuel filter, just as a start. The carb sitting with the same fuel in the bowl for 8 years is not a good thing, probably should get rebuilt. Hard to say about the oil usage. There are several things that could cause that, I'd probably want to do a compression (wet isn't as accurate on a horizontal cylinder...but still might tell you something) and leakdown test to try identify if there are issues with the major mechanical components.

Seconded Get a catless up-pipe and then tune. Right now you're pushing more air into the system without adjusting the fuel to compensate. You'd think with the MAF, MAP, and Oxygen sensors, it would be able to compensate, and it does a bit, but not enough. There are a few other supporting mods that you can do to improve turbo response and fueling (I'm specifically thinking of an upgraded boost control solenoid, and parallel fuel rails).

I sort of agree. Longer, equal-length primaries of an aftermarket header will give a little more performance, but really not much. Unless you're going twin scroll, or relocating the turbo (i.e. bumper/fog light mount), there isn't much point.

Glad to hear it!

For what it's worth....I don't have anything to add, but I've been watching, and am glad you followed up. The EA81 disc under the XT6 pressure plate was the correct combination?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/81963-ea8182-mt-gear-ratios/

Yea. They're the same as a PT4WD EA82 trans. Same 1st gear, other 4 are all a bit taller. It will yield lower cruising rpms in 5th than the 3.7 RX trans.

BUT, there are no direct 23-spline options for the 4EAT. The only way to get a Subaru auto with 23-splines is the 3AT, which use the same stubs as the MT. The only difference between them is the groove for the circlip/snapring....so a skilled lathe operator could modify a pair of 23-spline MT stubs to work in place of the 4EAT stubs (I have a pair of stubs modified in just such a manner on my workbench).

They are not the same. Most are interchangeable. The Loyale ones have a the lower outlet straight out. and the '85-'89 EA82s have it at an angle. You only need the different hose to retrofit... OE rads for a manual transmission do not have a transmission cooler in them, aftermarket ones do and you just leave the lines plugged. So if you have an auto trans, keep that in mind (A standalone transmission cooler could be used, but water-to-air coolers are considerably less efficient, and typically not thermostatically controlled). Some EA82s (turbos, I think) had 2-row. Extra cooling capacity which is usually overkill....but worth considering.

I've done it several times pulling the engine or transmission. The transmission isn't too bad IF the car is lifted. But on a stock car, pulling the engine is way easier. Only downside is it requires an engine hoist....but I think it's certainly easier, at the very least, you're not doing everything laying under the car.... "Correctly" is to resurface the flywheel.....I almost never do unless it's in pretty rough shape. IMO, if the rear main isn't leaking, don't bother. Due to it's size, it's fairly easy to screw up during install. Too much chance of causing a problem where there wasn't.

I show one in the country. Baxter Subaru in Omaha, NE, 402-397-8300 (35151PA000 is the part number I show for AWD, there's 35151PA010 for '94-'97 FWD...of which I see 2 in the country....I'm not sure what's different about it)

Yea, I think so. It's been a while since we did it, but I seem to remember that the only problem was the length. We definitely got it hooked up on one end.

I haven't tried it in this application, but I tried to put a Legacy shift cable in an SVX....and it was several inches too short. An SVX cable might be exactly what you need

I think that's probably best. I hate to discourage this kind of a project, but I also want to be realistic. And I think this really is a situation of "if you have to ask.....". It's feasible, but you really need the knowledge and experience to do it before you start.

It seems like it should be possible. The left side turbo and piping completely interferes with the steering shaft, brake booster, and clutch master. Subaru engines are offset, the right side head is further forward than the left. It doesn't seem like much, but where there's plenty of room for the turbo, steering shaft, etc. on the right side (even if it's only a single turbo), there really isn't on the left. The only time I've seen it successfully done, is with a ~4" lift, and several extra U-joints in the steering shaft to get it to go out and around the turbo (I wish I could find that build thread). IMO, if you're putting that in a LHD car, that engine is a donor block only. The exhaust, intake, intercooler, turbos, ecu, etc. is all basically scrap (the market is flooded with those parts from all the other people converting to single turbo....it has virtually no value). You'll still have to rebuild the bottom end, have the heads checked, and source single-turbo parts. $400 is decent, but keep in mind, that is very much the tip of the iceberg to turn that into a working engine. It would probably be a similar cost, and considerably more reliable to get everything from one car that is already single turbo (I highly recommend the ECU/Wiring from a GD WRX for it's price/tuneability)

Twin turbos do not fit (almost at all, it's been done, but requires considerable modification) in LHD cars. And they're not terribly powerful, not generally considered worth the trouble. If it's a great deal, you could use a standalone, or ECU/harness from a GD WRX to convert to more modern management, and single turbo parts would give you more peak power, more usable power, and less complexity.

I crossed the jumper cables on my '88 XT6 once.....fried the fusible link and ECU.

Yep....that was exactly the point I was making. The individual bearings are the same part number. But neither the individuals or sets are available from Subaru

They are indeed the same. Not interchangeable....the same part number. Which have no availability in the US warehouses, marked as not ordereable, and no dealers using Partseye have in stock. (This is all for the OEM bearings). Maybe Lithia has some other source, but I've got a guy standing next to me that's been in Subaru parts since the '70s, and we have no way to get those.... And I tried part numbers for the complete sets, and the individuals in standard sizes.

You are in a very tough spot. If I were in that position, I'd put a 2.2 in it, no question. But, I'd be doing it myself, I'm very comfortable buying a donor car or engine. If your car is a manual transmission, I wouldn't change anything other than the engine. Leave all the body, suspension, transmission, radiator, etc. Just get an engine, wiring, ecu, adapter plate, and a new clutch. Then enjoy more power (you don't have to drive it hard to appreciate it, it's so noticeable across the entire rpm range and how much less the engine has to work), more reliability, and better mileage (that, of course, depends on several factors, but generally has been my experience). But, since you'd be having someone do it, you need to find that person. The expertise/labor is what's going to drive up the cost. I could pretty easily scare up all the parts for $1k, but a shop that's completely unprepared will drive up the labor costs. A specialty shop is going to charge a premium hourly rate, but probably do a much better job in much less time. A person with the right combination of equipment, space, time, and knowledge could easily get it done for you for less than your EA82 rebuild.

I have a lot of respect that do anything interesting and different. And honestly, the EJ swap is neither. It's all well-documented, reliable, cheap, easy, yawn. In all seriousness, I have a lot of respect for the people that want to do builds with EAs, but I don't understand it. Here are my thoughts. Now I agree, it's not for everyone. And I'd love to see some aftermarket support for the EAs, and I love seeing people do builds on them. But just my thoughts on some of your points, from someone who's done it a few times....

Yep, IF it wasn't run/stored with coolant in the oil, the bottom end is probably fine. But since you bought it that way, you have no way of knowing. I would pull it apart, and visually inspect bearings and rings/cylinder walls. If things aren't too scored up, I'd throw a quick DIY hone on the cylinder walls, assemble with new bearings and rings, and run it. Also, I assume the ER27 heads have the same "problem" as the EA82 heads where they get surface cracks that have fooled many a reputable machine shop. As long as they pass a pressure test, don't worry about the cracks.

Yea, and when I had it done, they had to mill the flanges down to accept standard diameter tube (still cheaper than getting metric tube). It was $150ish 8 years ago or so.

Good luck. I wish you the best, but I can't help feel like you're in way over your head. Getting a legal cage in there, with an STi swap, and suspension that can withstand Baja abuse....$10k isn't going to scratch the surface. And even still, it'll probably be about as successful as Bill Caswell's Baja Pig (Broken steering a few miles from the start line). Please don't take offense, I wish you the best of luck, and I will be watching. I'm just thinking realistically, with my experience with stage rally (Helped build a GC for Rally-America, and that was a LOT of off-the-shelf parts, engine, transmission, tubular suspension components, coilovers, etc. etc.).

rear what? There are a lot of components in the rear, and almost all of them have failed at some point.....