Numbchux

Right....now I remember why I don't mess with that convoluted nonsense. ASSuming your donor EJ had A/C (I haven't seen one without, but theoretically they exist), it has 4 relays. Stock fans are 2 speed. 3 Pin connectors, Black is ground on pin 1 on both of them. Main control on the ECU, activates the fan relay in the fuse box, and one in the A/C relay holder (IIRC, 2 fuses and 4 relays right next to the fuse box) giving 12v to pin 3 on both fans (Yellow with Red stripe on main fain, White with Blue stripe on Sub fan). Secondary ECU control activates the other 2 relays in the A/C holder, which gives 12v to the pin 2 on both fans as well (Light Green with Black stripe on main fan, and Yellow with Green stripe on sub fan), kicking them into high speed. So yea, I'd probably use the low speed wire (as it comes on first) from one of the fans to a single fan, with the best airflow. And then use each of the high speed wires to power your other 2 fans.

Not enough information here to say whether that's accurate or not. First off, more information about your car. I assume that since we're talking about an oil leak from the timing cover, that we're talking about a timing chain engine, which narrows it down to the 6-cylinders, or the FB-series 4-cylinder (2013+ Legacy/Outback, 2011+ Forester, 2012+ Impreza). But still, that only gets us to 2 engines, and about 10 years.... It would also be pertinent to know what kind of mileage is on the car, any other issues you've had, maintenance, etc. Also doesn't seem like I have enough information to know what they're doing. Both of those engine options have a front timing cover, which does need to be resealed occasionally, but it's not a huge job. Neither has a rear timing cover that I know of, the front cover bolts to surfaces right on the cam carrier, cylinder head, and engine block. Do you have any written quote information? A parts list? Replacing an axle boot is a common job, and not terribly difficult. Probably $50 in parts, I'd guess 0.8 - 1 hour in labor (We charge $110/hr here).

Oh, you've run the FULL EJ harness, out to the fan plug. What year and model is your EJ donor, and I'll look at the diagrams. I've never done it that way... You are exactly correct. The EJ fans are controlled by the ECU, which uses a temp sensor in the coolant bridge. I was thinking you were talking about plugging the fans into the EA81 harness, which would have used a switch on the radiator.

wheel width and offset are both extremely important factors here....

Well, if it's got an EJ engine, ECU, and radiator, it doesn't really matter what the pins on the stock plug did, as they probably aren't attached to anything anyway (I think the stock fan was controlled by a simple thermoswitch, but that was in the radiator end tank. EA82 for sure). EJ ECU has 2 fan relay control wires, they are grounded to activate a relay, which would supply power to the fan. One wire on the fan needs to be grounded, and the other gets power. Reversing those makes the fan spin the other way. The better ones have a curved blade that has to be flipped on the motor to be most efficient. If I were actually wiring 3 fans up, I'd probably put one on the main control, and 2 on the sub control. Although, I rarely even needed one fan (literally....I think I put more miles on my loyale without a functioning fan than with)! Alternatively, there are universal fan control units, but I've used a couple of those with mediocre long-term reliability. Or you could use a switch (or 2....or 3) to control a relay(s).

Well, the components are mounted in different places depending whether it had factory A/C, dealer A/C, or without (3 different options). Here's the factory A/C setup (looks like the A/C belt is removed): Here's (basically, that looks like a different alternator, but it's the best picture I could find that shows the location of the components) dealer-installed: Here's no-A/C So, if you have factory A/C, remove the compressor, but leave the alternator where it was (which isn't great, as the compressor itself is much of the support for the alternator, but I've done it), The belt for a car without A/C will definitely be considerably short. I think when I did it that way, I used the stock alternator belt (as it just bumps up slightly onto the A/C compressor), which was within the adjustment range, and then left off the A/C belt.

no. 2" strut tops and 1.25 crossmember is absolutely fine. EA82s have quite a bit of positive camber stock, a lift and larger tires makes it look worse, even if it isn't (seriously, can we have a sticky on this yet? I swear it gets asked several times a month). Make sure the strut tops were installed in the correct direction, and you're good.

Probably eventually. I've done it for years. The CB radio antenna cable pictured made it onto a few different cars. You could do the exact same thing but go through the back door opening. That would probably drastically reduce the use.

On a few vehicles, I've tucked it behind the interior trim on the b-pillar up to the roof line, and pinch it in with the weatherstripping around the door:

It's true, the DOHC engines are too big to fit in an EA81 chassis without modification. The Phase 2 SOHC (like that 2.5) heads are larger than the phase 1 heads, which I know do fit. So.....I dunno Someone must have tried it! Other than that, it'll be pretty much identical to most OBDII setups.

I assume "factory rally model with a 10 speed" is an RX with the D/R FT4WD 5MT.

I can't speak to the first question. But the second, an ABS 4-cyl EJ master will be 1 1/16" bore with 2 ports. Non-ABS EJ will be 1" bore with 4 ports. FWD/non-ABS SVX master will be 1 1/16" with 4 ports.

donor car is definitely the best way for your first one. I have pieced them together, and even with my experience, there are things that get missed. Adapter plate to the stock transmission works wonderfully.

Really not worth it. The ER27 is a neat engine, but IMO not worth the work of swapping it in. For the cost and labor involved, you could have a much more powerful, reliable, better-supported engine.

That was just a gutter-mount Yakima. Worked best after removing the trim.

Daylight picture of the "new" seat:

It might be worth a try. But that seems really far forward to me. Most of my chevy 4.3 is behind the front of the control arms on my 4Runner. Here's the only picture I could find that gives any sense of perspective there..... You can see the front of the timing cover in the upper right, and front of the control arm on the left side. You can also get an idea of height. There are 2" drivetrain lift motor mount spacers there, and incorrect motor mounts (the reason I took the picture) pushing the engine up another couple inches. With the correct mounts, my oil pan sits down behind the diff a bit, instead of completely above it. Even about 4" higher than stock height, I'm not sure subaru heads would clear the frame. AND, AFAIK the RWD truck frames arch up higher near the control arms than the IFS 4WD ones (the hardcore offroad guys prefer them for this, as it leaves more room for a solid front axle).

Well...I guess I should make a thread here in the Member's rides section for it... I bought this 1989 XT6 from a fellow USMB/SubaruXT member something like 7 years ago. It was basically bone stock, AWD, 4EAT, Air suspension, etc. It wasn't perfect, been crashed at least once, both rear quarters have had damage repair (inside of the RH one is red, and the line where it was welded on right over the wheel well is rusting through. LH side has quite a bit of bondo, which is cracking and falling off in big chunks). It's been painted, none of the original decals remained. It had been broken into (apparently, in the process, the thief broke both door handles, and busted up the dash, all to steal the stock radio). I immediately swapped on some mediocre snow tires on WRX wheels: I also swapped the Blizzaks on steelies from my FrankenWagon for a weekend of Ice Racing: Which killed the air suspension: Swapped to coils, and took it ice racing again (actually brought the FrankenWagon as well for this weekend, so the UltraGrips were back on the XT6) Not much else to say about the next 6 months. I drove it every day, delivered pizzas in it, and enjoyed the heck out of it. Then..... Someone turned in front of me, and I hit them. A few months later, I got my hands on an extremely rusty '88 5MT XT6: I drove it for about a year, but it had overheating issues, and the aforementioned rust (Structurally, so bad that the windshield was de-laminating at a crack). Finally transmission failure put another nail in it's coffin, and I parted it out. But I saved the front clip. Several years later, I had some free time from work, and spent a good week on the '89. I knew it probably wasn't worth fixing "correctly". But I wanted to make it driveable again. High lift jack, comealong, portapower, hammer, and a grinder and I got everything to mostly line up....enough that the hood opens and closes, and so do the lights, anyway. But it still sat for a couple more years. I had a reliable, and fun, little '92 Celica ST coupe. About a year and a half ago, I spun a rod bearing in it due to oil starvation due to a rusted-through oil pan and failed oil pressure switch wire....and as luck would have it, there was a '91 Celica GT Convertible on craigslist that needed a heap of suspension parts. So I picked it up, and started driving it. But it's actually in really good shape, it was kind of a shame to drive it in the harsh MN winter last year, so I decided to get my butt in gear, and get the XT6 back on the road. It really didn't need much. Over the years, I swapped most of the upgraded suspension and brake parts that were in my FrankenWagon into this, but never really finished the install. So there were a few things that needed buttoning up (bolts tightened, brake lines rerouted, etc.). I had robbed the power steering brushes for my other XT6, so those had to be swapped back. It needed an upper radiator hose. Somehow I seem to have lost the lower air box. Original plan was just a MAF adapter and cone air filter, but in fanagling that in, I managed to ruin the stock intake hose.....so before long I was on ebay getting some super cheap silicone elbows and stainless tube, and I ended up with this: Despite the fact that it only had a couple gallons of gas in it for 6 years, it always started right up. I've been driving it every day this winter. I was blasting some of the grime off the engine at the coin-op car wash, and a little moisture found it's way into the distributor cap, so I had to have it towed home, I found some terrifyingly rusted contacts in the cap, so I put a new cap and rotor in it. Due to the brake swapping, I think at some point the master cylinder ran dry, and needed to be bench bled. Well, since the labor was the same, I put an SVX 17/16 master in it. I had to replace a chunk of steel brake line where it goes through the body under the rear seat to the prop valve. One of the front hoses rubbed on the wheel, so I put some StopTech braided stainless ones for a WRX in last weekend. Unfortunately, due to the painfully mild winter, there haven't been any ice races up here. But a friend has agreed that we can use his truck and trailer, and my car, and haul it down to some RallyXs next summer. I got my hands on this sweet sport seat and 4-point harness from a local car guy last weekend, and threw it in tonight: Sort of racing seat thing, but still reclines. The mounting pattern was smaller in both directions, length and width. So I mounted some 2x2x1/8" steel angle to the stock rails, and then I could bolt the seat to that, and maintain a lot of strength. I'll take a picture of it in the car in the morning. It sits taller than I'd like, unfortunately the mechanism that locks the slides barely clears the seat frame as it sits. So it will require a rethink to get it much lower... Current mod list: Sweet warm-air intake '92 FWD Legacy front knuckles/cv axles/strut mounts '93 JDM WRX front brakes (same as USDM turbo-legacy) Front KYB GR2s from a '94 Turbo Legacy Stock Front springs/perches from a GD WRX EA81 tie rod ends Rear KYB GR2s for an EA82 4WD Wagon 250 lb/in, 10 in Eibach rear springs from Ground-Control '87 Nissan 200SX rear calipers SVX Master Cylinder GD WRX Braided Stainless front brake hoses Planned mods: Braided rear brake hoses Finish rear ebrake conversion with the Legacy handle/cables that were in my Loyale Finish mounting 4-point harness (Note: this will ONLY be used for rallycross. These do not provide enough/correct support for actual crash protection) Re-install rear sway bar with poly bushings Dmack Gravel tires on T-leg alloys Relocate battery to the trunk Hopefully cut some weight out of the front bumper beam A/C compressor delete DutyC/4WD switch mod (I also want to see if the XT6 4EAT TCU has the capability for manual "power" mode operation like the early EJs)

As far as I know....this is the only time it's been "done" (I say that, as the project is not yet finished, but the engine/transmission have been mocked up several times. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134618-smiley/ In there, you'll see this picture. I believe this was already with some drivetrain lift: And, he ended up cutting off the whole front of the frame and replacing it with tube. I believe you have control arm bracketry and stuff on top of the frame in that exact spot. So yours would probably have to be ~6" higher than his. As much as I love the idea of a Subaru engine in a Toyota, I don't think it's feasible without a solid front axle, and a lot of fab work.

AFAIK, that was only a 5x100 kit that crossbred made. You could easily redrill the 2-pot rotors....

Oh yea, torque converter bolts are accessible through an inspection hole in the engine side of the bellhousing. On the top, and passenger side. Should be a little rubber cap over it (although that frequently disappears over the years).

I agree you probably have mis-matched front and rear axle ratios. On top of the transmission bellhousing, near the starter, should be a transmission number (AFAIK, always starting with a "T"). Which should match the number on the build plate on the strut tower: Either way, you can usually google the number, and find exactly what it's for, and what the gear ratios are. I don't remember if your car should have a tag on the rear diff saying the ratio on it. There might not be a good way to tell for sure without pulling the rear cover (and, since it's mounted by the rear cover, means you basically have to remove it from the car). '90-'94 Legacies came with 3.90 and 4.111 (IIRC, one is for Manual transmission, and the other for Auto, but I'm not sure off the top of my head). But rear diffs are pretty much cross-compatible as long as they've been making AWD/4WD cars, in 3.545, 3.70, 3.90, 4.111, and 4.444. Most of those in cars which could have been a donor car for your trans.

Yes. I spent quite some time last night considering and typing up a thorough response, despite having very little information to go from.

Rod bearing spun and seized. Rod broke in half, and the half still attached to the crank punched through the block. Also called "Throwing a Rod" Typically it's caused by a lack of oil to that bearing, this can be caused by several things, be it a clog somewhere limiting flow to only that bearing, or that part of the engine. Or something causing low oil pressure to the whole engine (cracked pick-up tube, oil pump problem, etc.). It can also be caused by high rpm use, or turbo cars that have had the boost turned up (I assume neither of these apply to you....). It can also be caused by detonation/misfires (causing contact between the bearing and crank), which can be caused by either fueling or ignition. IMO, none of these things are any more likely on your car than most others (Subaru and others). Long story short, it'll be very difficult to tell. It might be due to some neglect or abuse, but it might just be a fluke.

Debatable. And even still, 7psi with 3L of displacement, high compression, and a good tune, is a heap of power!