Numbchux

There's also options for turbo mounting like this: http://www.rs25.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=46782&d=1309281462 (apparently I can't embed that...) There's a guy here in MN that's fabbed up several cars like this. It gets some of the heat out of the engine bay, frees up space to stuff a much larger turbo than what fits in stock location, and allows for much shorter piping, both on the exhaust and intercooler side. Pretty cool stuff. Those were all on EJ cars, but obviously wouldn't be any different for an EZ, just need a different exhaust flange, and 2 more primary pipes.

Geez, there's a lot of negativity in here!! Let me try to bridge the gap a little. First off, "Sir Junk". You are clearly very new to this, with a ton of research ahead of you, and no indication of even enough background knowledge to justify choosing that engine. Most of us have seen dozens of people on here, and elsewhere, over the years come on here and start posts like this. Most of them never get started, a few started, and never finished. I'm not a betting person, but I would bet cash that this car never happens. With that said, I think some of the people here are overstating the difficulty. The back of an EZ engine is in the exact same place as an EJ. The turbo fits perfectly behind the RH head. Yes, you have to build custom headers, up-pipe, down-pipe, etc. But not really anything you wouldn't be doing with any other big-turbo (rotated) build. I worked on an EG33 swap car that the owner had high hopes for (then he had 5 kids.....and sold the car un-finished....and I helped get it going later with the stock engine). He actually mocked up putting a TD04 behind each headlight, using "morette" style projector headlight housings, and using one of the headlight openings as an intake for each turbo. Would have had to cut up the inner fender, and move the battery to the trunk and some clever intercooler plumbing (probably AWICs), but really not too difficult. The '05+ EZ30s (commonly, and incorrectly, called EZ30R) were all immobilizer cars. This is probably the biggest enemy to swappers. It makes it virtually impossible (I only say virtually to give the benefit of the doubt. I've never seen it done) to run that ECU in any other chassis. There's an old thread on NASIOC where someone tried, and tried, and tried to get one of those EZ30s to run in an older impreza.....never happened. So you're definitely stuck with standalone (which you already are, if you're thinking about boost). As Bushwick said, Mighty Car Mods did one with a turbo EZ36. They detailed it over about 20 30-min videos. It almost makes it look easy, but watch closely at the amount of specialists that get involved. Taking over AMAuto (who is clearly prepared for this kind of project) for quite some time to fabricate everything. Then having the guys from Haltech come in and do all the wiring, and do road and dyno tunes. All EJ, EZ, EG, FA, and FB engines use essentially the same bellhousing. In about 1999, they added 4 more bolts to the connection, but the 4 bolts on the older style line up to the newer style, they are interchangeable (with the one challenge of adding a starter bolt when putting an 8-bolt transmission on a 4-bolt engine). Although a turbo 6-cyl will munch any stock 5-speed. Get a 6-speed, and matching r180.

Experience varies dealer-to-dealer. But Subaru is replacing short blocks on cars effected with the oil consumption problem. We just did one that had 90k miles on it. Zero cost to the customer (extreme case...but still a good example). And those were due to a bad batch of piston rings. The effected cars had oil consumption issues before the first oil change, it's not something that pops up later. And all but the 2012 Impreza have low oil sensors, so a warning light will come on, which greatly reduces the chances that the cars were driven with dangerously low oil. It is an issue, and we're probably fixing one car a week here That said, I'd definitely get a second opinion on your 05. I'm assuming they're talking about Control Arms. That seems really strange to me, I would assume that it's because of failing bushings, but the bushings can be replaced individually, it's more labor, but considerably less parts cost. IMO, the only reason to replace an entire control arm, is structural failure (rust or impact). If the steering rack is leaking (not unheard-of, or even unlikely, especially with that many miles). There really isn't a good option other than replacing it. Some money can be saved on parts (although, for $1200 installed, I'm assuming that's with a remanufactured rack), but it's a fairly big job to replace it. And, it will require an alignment afterward.... There are definitely dozens, if not hundreds, of aftermarket options for backup camera and bluetooth integration. Some would require a new radio, some integrate into the original one.

They don't show up for me either....

I have ordered several times from 1stsubaruparts.com, but not in quite awhile. I got this email from them in October of 2012 "Dear customer, Starting October 1st, we will no longer accept new orders at our website1stsubaruparts.com. Instead, you can order Subaru parts and accessories at our new and improved site discountedsubaruparts.com We are confident that you will find our new site, Discounted Subaru Parts even better. We still have the same great staff and provide the same great customer service but we have improved the functionality of the site and now include access to Subaru Performance Tuning Parts and Subaru Gear official clothing, apparel and more! -Walker Subaru" It was weird, because the 1st website never went down that I saw....unless someone else snatched it up quick. I'm not exactly sure what's going on there, but the dealership that we've had good luck with is www.discountedsubaruparts.com

I disagree. H6 swap cars are a blast. Peak power isn't as much as many turbo setups, but the torque curve is addictive. Turbos add a definite level of complexity to a car, and typically that reduces the reliability. "There's no replacement for displacement" is definitely true, and while I think that 7 or 8 litres is certainly overkill, but ~3 is perfect. The ER27 is probably more work than it's worth. It's almost as long as an EG33, has a 3rd motor mount to the lower radiator support, and doesn't have much more power than a decent EJ. I've seen a couple ER27 into EA81 swaps. ER27 ECUs are mounted in the trunk, so while the electrical functionality isn't actually more complicated, having several feet more wire to deal with can add it's own challenges. An EG33 is a fantastic engine. An EG-swapped GC impreza will out run a GD STi in a straight line, and an EA82 chassis is even lighter. No, it's not an easy swap, but it's doable. As with any swap that increases the power by 2-2.5 times, you will probably want to do some suspension and brake upgrades, but those aren't terribly difficult. You'll probably want an EJ AWD transmission, which requires a little work, but also completely doable. The EG33 is more than a little bit bigger than an EA82, so you'll have to move the radiator forward. That's easier on an EJ car, as you have a fairly large, plastic bumper that you can hide stuff behind, but again, doable. Probably would require a shorter and thicker radiator. An EZ30/36 would be the easiest swap, mechanically, but the most expensive. As it's not much bigger than an EJ. I bet it could be done with the stock EA82 radiator, in it's stock mounts, and pusher fans. '01-'04 EZ30s are extremely reliable (comparable to an EJ22e), and IIRC the wiring is simpler than almost any EJ turbo setup.... '05+ EZs have an immobilizer system. So in order to use one of those engines, you'll have to go standalone management, which will add significant cost.

It's just a bolt. I almost guarantee your local dealership stocks it, I know we sell a couple a month, and it's the same bolt for all non-multilink Subaru rear. 20540aa001, list price is $22.93. It can be a huge pain. Sometimes it can be seized into the bushings in the lateral links (probably about 50% of the time someone buys that bolt, they get the bushings as well). You can sort of access the center of the bolt in the knuckle, but it's difficult to cut it in half without damaging the knuckle.

I feel the need to say, at this point. Subaru puts the LF and RR on one circuit, and RF and LR on another so that if you have a hydraulic failure on one circuit, you still have balanced braking force on the other. With that said, I have replumbed several cars the way you describe (it's the only way to do a hydraulic handbrake), and it works just fine. Just know that if you have a failure, you will only have front or rear brakes.

I was mostly joking. I've never had an EA82 that could get to 7500, and tried on a regular basis. My EA82s would float somewhere between 6800-7200. Seems strange to me that they would print a 6250 or 6500 red line on the gauge, but program something at 7500.

Each to their own, and I certainly encourage you to do it. But, I disagree. Those questions are at least as relevant with an EA82t: -EJs cool much better than an EA82, I've run several EJ22s on EA82 radiators (my Loyale spent more time without a working cooling fan than with, and I put more than 60k miles on it swapped), I wouldn't with an EA82t. -While an EA82t exhaust system will fit on an EA82, if you've got it off, do something that flows better. -Transmission options are virtually identical between them. EJ to EA transmission requires an adapter plate, EJ transmission requires modified driveshaft and crossmember (definitely the hard way). EA82t swap requires a turbo engine crossmember, or fabrication. Both options require significant wiring work to install a stock fuel injection system in a car it didn't come in. Depending on your specific skills and/or parts availability, one option might be significantly better than the other. But generally speaking, they're pretty similar as far as amount of work to install. But, the EJ22e offers significant advantages: Good '96-'99 EJ22 engine donors are much more common than '85-'89 EA82t donors, pretty much everywhere. Making the cost of the bulk of the parts generally cheaper. We could debate the reliability of an EA82t until we all die of exhaustion, but I think even some of the largest EA82t lovers would agree than the EJ22e is more reliable. EJ22e is 130hp, EA82t is 115 (both in stock form). Even the slowest EJ18 is 108hp.... IMO, the '96-'99 wiring is easier to adapt than the '90-'94. AND you get better OBD!

That's valve float AFAIK, EA82 SPFI don't have rev limiters either. Either way, the valvetrain is the weak link, and while valve float isn't exactly good for anything, it's not terrible either. Let 'er buck. If you really do think you need something, there are aftermarket ignition systems that are designed primarily for carbed V8s that could probably be adapted to an EA81 and programmed to cut the ignition at a certain rpm.

YES. The Pug wheels use a 45* conical seat on the lug nuts, whereas almost all others are a 60* conical, which gives you virtually zero contact patch. Pug nuts are getting very hard to find, I think someone made some awhile back, otherwise ball seat lug nuts can be used.

Or just drive it. Lifter tick won't hurt anything. A true EA82t swap would be as much work as an EJ swap, for similar power and less reliability. A DIY Turbo'd EA82 will be even more work, for less power, and even less reliability.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/157224-i-just-upgraded-my-master-cylinderheres-what-i-found/

That exact style wheel was available in a 390mm, and 15" diameter. Which are close, but not the same.

Or, go to your local auto parts store, and get 2 of these. M10x1.0 inverted flare tee fittings, you'll also need a couple short lengths of brake line with the same fittings to go between the master and the tee. The 2-port masters are for ABS. And the ABS pump splits the pressure from 2 lines to 4. Just make sure to keep the front and rear connections oriented the same as they were. The primary and secondary pistons (front and rear) within the master are what allow you to have some braking force, should you have catastrophic hydraulic failure somewhere.

Do you know that the TPS is calibrated correctly? Step one is definitely to check that, both at the sensor and at the ECU. Also, +1 to is your VSS connected correctly?

I just looked at several of the ones here (being 390cca, in northern MN, we swap them out for new 550cca ones on any car with a remote start), and it looks like it's day, month, year. Although, that's the kind of battery they put in Subarus from the factory (Just Impreza/foresters, though, I think). So it should be fairly close to the manufacture date of the car it's in.

Oh yea, I see that now. 13047019. Only says '94-'95. Looks like it's a brand-new unit, with reservoir, but is $100 more than the cardone reman one without the res.

SVX master bolted right up to my XT6 booster. 4-cyl XT and EA82 share a part number for Masters, so I doubt EA82s are different. Maybe EA81s or earlier, though.

Credit where credit is due. Caboobaroo found some of this years ago. I took it a step further, Looks like the pattern for all XTs, EA82s, and EJs (certainly into the early 2000s) is this: Without hillholder cars had 4-ports on the master, the hillholder also functions as a splitter, so cars equipped with one only have 3 ports on the master. Similarly the ABS pump also functions as a splitter for both channels, as such, those masters have 2 ports. Looks like XT6s had 15/16" bore masters, EA82s had 7/8" (I didn't look into this too closely, as it doesn't apply to me at all, there may be more to it), non-ABS EJs had 1", ABS EJ cars and all SVXs had 1 1/16" You may notice in my list above, there's a crossover. Non-ABS (AFAIK, FWD only) SVXs had a 1 1/16" bore master with 4 ports. FYI, the official Subaru electronic catalog doesn't show FWD SVXs as being an option for '92-'93, but it does for a '94-'97, and many aftermarket catalogs followed suit. Having an auto trans, my '89 XT6 does not have a hill holder, and therefore has a 4-port 15/16" master. I suspect over the 5ish years of basically serving as nothing more than a parts car, I got air in the master, and it needed bench bleeding. I decided if I was going to the trouble, it was going to get an upgrade while I was at it. As far as I can find, only Cardone makes a remanufactured masters for a FWD SVX. Part # 11-3849. It's either that or used (OE rebuild kits are discontinued...). Luckily those Cardone units are not terribly expensive. As I mentioned, my old system was not working as intended, but still, after the swap, this is the most positive feeling EA82/XT brake pedal I've ever owned....despite the fact that this car has significantly more caliper volume than a stock EA82 (T-leg front 2-pot calipers, 200SX rears which have larger pistons than stock Subaru). I used the XT6 reservoir in the SVX master, the tab for the lock down screw didn't line up quite right, but it's still a tight fit in the grommets, so I'm not worried. It would also be super easy to use a T fitting or 2 to adapt a 2 port EJ master to a 3- or 4-port EA82/XT chassis.

Yep

Anything that new will have an immobilizer, which means it will be virtually impossible to get running on the stock ECU. Mechanically, it probably wouldn't be too difficult to get a new CVT into an '87.5 or newer EA82 (if yours is an early model '87, you'll have the smaller transmission tunnel, which will make anything but a 5MT difficult, of course, looks like you've got a lift, which will help). But the CVT is very much computer controlled, and the whole system is very integrated.....you'll have an electrical nightmare trying to get it to run in a different car. You'll probably want to stick to ~2005 or older for engine donors unless you plan to go full standalone engine management.

If you do try the ECU, FYI, it's unique to '95. Might even be more specific, as every '95 I've worked on had a MAP....

I see a few interesting things. I'm not sure any of them definitively point to anything, but I'll post them.... Narrow band O2 signals can be difficult to read, but the fact that they both agree means it is probably not the sensors. The only thing those 2 have in common (other than the ECU itself, which I'm not ready to assume is the issue), is the main power wire. The O2 sensors, and the purge solenoid are the only things that get power from that side of the main relay. So a main relay issue (not unheard-of) could easily cause a drop in supply voltage to those 3 things, and nothing else. Easy enough to check.... More likely, though is that they are just reading the lean condition that is causing your hesitation. I think this is supported by the condition at 142 seconds, falling rpm and closed throttle means no fuel (I assume either between gears, or just coasting). I also see the fuel trims bumping into the positive. Which would lead me to believe that the computer is trying to enrich the mixtures to compensate for the lean condition. This completely contradicts what you're seeing with the injector pulses.... Assuming the TPS actually reflects movement of the pedal at the time, that looks normal. MAF looks unaffected.