Numbchux

This is a Kenwood FM/AM/Cassette version (you may notice that it says McIntosh/Clarion on that diagram...it's pretty common). But from my research online, it looks like many of the CD ones have this plug that can be used with a CD changer. Either way, the blank CD trick, is so that the CD player will tell the Radio to go into an input mode, that's what the switch here is for. Oh, I'm very aware. And I've had a myriad of those cheap aftermarket units, and for the most part, I hate them. The interface is frustrating and clunky. They are more powerful, but I've had several cars that were a similar age where you start blowing speakers as soon as you drop in an aftermarket head unit. No, this doesn't sound amazing, but being able to plug my phone into it, and play anything through the car's OE stereo is so nice. It has all the adjustments you need (bass, treble, fader, balance), all easily accessed without opening menus and garbage. It dims with the factory controls, it's extremely easy to set the clock, etc. etc. I'll trade this over the JVC in my wife's Outback, the Pioneer in my Celica, and the Kenwood in my 4Runner any day (all have original speakers, and don't sound much better). The only aftermarket deck that I currently own is the Alpine in my XT6. And those aren't cheap, I did a quick search on ebay, and there wasn't a decent one listed for less than $60. And that still required a special cable (bought it on amazon for $8....) to have an aux input.

Using this pinout for the accessory CD player: Worked perfectly. I simply pushed wires into the pins on the radio, and then hot-glued them all to keep them insulated and in place. Then I ran the 5 wires, with a connector in the middle, through the center console past the shifter, to a panel-mounted switch and stereo jack 2017-07-21_04-18-28 by Numbchux, on Flickr Looks clean, and works perfectly. And cost less than $10.

If you have the Walbro, seems easiest to just swap that in. It'll be overkill, but that's fine. Stock SPFI pump works just fine for an N/A EJ. Make sure you upgrade all the pressurized rubber fuel lines, too.

As I recall, there is not nearly enough flat material at that smaller diameter (the hub recesses considerably for the 4 rotor bolts) for a 5-lug pattern. Doable with a 4-lug, as it can be located directly in between the rotor bolts, but not 5.

It's certainly possible. The driver's window is operated through a control unit, but that's really just a timer for the Auto up and down function. The other 3 windows simply operate through a fuse, then a relay (only powered when the key is on), then power and ground out to the switches. I would grab one of the switches from the other 3 doors (as it is just one window, instead of all 4), and with a little work, it wouldn't be hard to get it to work on it's own. It's also possible that all the wiring is there, that you could just grab the door as-is, and it might plug into your chassis harness, and you'd certainly have to grab that control unit, and probably the relay as well. But it might all be plug and play. These cars had power windows, locks, cruise control, etc. as options for many years, and frequently all the wiring is present, just not used. FYI, if you're not sure if you'll check back soon. You can subscribe to a thread, and you will receive email notifications of new posts. I don't love the idea of giving my personal email address (any more than I already have....), and I would much rather respond in a public forum where an open discussion can be had (as I'm not perfect, and I feel better knowing that any glaring mistakes will probably be caught by my fellow USMBers).

Holy crap. That's a first for me! Thanks for actually testing it, too. Anything stuck in it that might be preventing it from opening?

As long as both sides are at the same level, there shouldn't be any force on the sway bar links. The geometry is changed a little bit, but not much.

It's a little spendy, but that little harness, with both sockets and the plug to the body, is still available from subaru: 84930GA930, MSRP $32.02

What other type of check valve is there? A check valve is a check valve, it can be installed 2 ways, but regardless of whether the engine is generating boost or not, you still need vacuum in the booster, so the check valve is un-changed. I have turbo'd several non-turbo EJ cars, none have needed any modifications for the brake booster.

Generally speaking, newer is better. The issues changed, but the parts and knowledge to repair them are simpler with newer cars. For a daily driver, I would say avoid a turbo car. The extra complexity is generally not worth it. The 6 cylinders are typically much more reliable, and hold their value extremely well (which also means they're generally more expensive to buy). I'd go as new as your budget can allow. IMO, each generation is much nicer to drive than the last.

Yep, there are 5 countersunk holes in the hub that I assume are for an ABS tone ring (I've never actually seen one....). There are also 2 smaller threaded holes in the hub, these had screws that hold the rotor to the hub. You can see a piece of the screw in one of them in this picture, because I had to drill them out to get the rotor off: Those line up with the countersunk holes in the rotor: The Rotor also has 2 threaded holes that do not require any provision in the hub, these are there to assist in the removal of the rotor from the hub.

Mileage on the car? Head gasket history? Any issues with it overheating before the failure? Thermostats virtually never fail shut (I say "virtually" to give the benefit of the doubt. I've tested many, and never seen it happen, and never heard of or seen a situation where a new thermostat solved an overheating issue and been convinced that it wasn't just the fresh coolant/burping). IMO, replacing your thermostat would be a waste of energy and money. Good heat means you've got good coolant circulation, which pretty much guarantees that you don't have an air bubble. First thing I would do, is get my hands on an OBDII scanner, just to get a second opinion on the temperature. But, the fact that it doesn't run warm at idle, and it does under load sort of screams head gasket to me. It's possible the overheating from the failed radiator caused head gasket failure, or even head warpage. Next thing I would do is get a chemical "block tester" kit (a little clear plastic container that you put in the radiator neck, and fill with a blue chemical, and draw air through it from the half-empty cooling system, and if there are combustion gasses in the coolant, the chemical will change yellowish. I know when I worked at AutoZone, we had the tool for rent for free, and the chemical was like $7 for a bottle) and see if it that is the issue.

The brake booster hose already has a check valve so that it will hold vacuum even with the engine isn't building it. I hadn't considered the HVAC stuff, although I'd be willing to bet there's a similar system there, otherwise your HVAC controls would only work at closed throttle.

Yes, there are 2 vacuum hoses from the solenoids to the diaphragm. Only one should get vacuum at a time, as they connect to opposite sides of the diaphragm, therefore pushing and pulling on the cable. There is a switch on the transmission that is activated by the center diff lock mechanism (looks and functions almost identically to the neutral and reverse switch). That's what activates the indicator light. It is certainly possible that this switch is failing, or the wiring to it, which could cause all of the symptoms you're describing.

I will continue to ASSume that this would all be used in an EJ swap into something else. From an engine control standpoint, yes, it will be fine. But the rest of the bulkhead harness between a Legacy and Impreza are very different. I just noticed your location. I would DEFINITELY drive down to UPull Rosemount, they have 4 '96-'99 Donor cars that probably have 2.2s.

There are a lot of different components to that system, first step is to isolate them as best you can to figure out the problem. There's an electric switch, that operates those solenoids, that routes engine vacuum to a diaphragm, which pulls a cable, which moves a lever on the side of transmission, which moves a fork in the transmission, which engages the diff lock, and trips a switch, which lights the indicator light. I would start by making sure it's actually not locking (you may have done this, but I'll say it just in case). Push the button, and make some tight turns to see if you can feel it binding. There's a chance the switch, or wiring for it, for the indicator light is failing. Next thing I would do is bypass the solenoids. Connect the engine vacuum directly to one of the hoses that goes down to the diaphragm, and drive it a bit (shouldn't take much...IIRC my RX box would usually engage at idle), if that doesn't work, try the other hose. (Also, start the car with that disconnected, and put your thumb over it and see if there's good vacuum getting to the solenoids) If that works, then check for voltage going into the solenoids (testing the switch, basically). If you've got power there, the solenoid(s) isn't working, if not, you have an electrical problem. If connecting vacuum to it doesn't work, then I would jack the car up, and climb underneath, and see if I could get the locker lever on the side of the transmission to move by hand, that would tell you if it's a transmission problem, or the diaphragm/cable.

I ASSume this is a donor for an EJ swap? As the wiring harnesses are pretty different between the platforms. But for a swap, that would work just fine. Maybe someone else will chime in (or you can verify for yourself) there are some variation through the '90s of cars that do and do not have EGR systems. If your ECU is looking for it, and the engine doesn't have provisions for it, you will probably have a check engine light always on, but the car will run fine. Just be aware, that the '95 2.2 ECU/body harness are unique to that year and engine, and are a little hard to find information for. Just something to be aware of as you're doing this project. The '96-'99 setup is preferable, but I wouldn't pay much more for it.

+1 for probably failed regulator, maybe more damage. If it was my only car, I'd go to my local parts house and buy a reman alternator. If I had another car and/or alternator, I'd give it some time before buying a new one, but definitely don't drive it like that.

+1 on this to start. The fact that your fans don't seem to be kicking on is strange, I'd start there. Although once you're moving almost at all, it shouldn't matter.

It is certainly similar. Stock Subaru ~50mm offset 5-lug wheels fit very nicely on a 5-lug converted EA82.

What year is your car? Either of those brands are decent. I'd probably prefer the gates pulleys, but GMB is certainly quality. I would definitely prefer the Aisin pump, but whatever. I think you've figured it out, but I'll mention it anyway. Those Gates kits are not interchangeable. They use a different tensioner (belt and other pulleys are the same, water pump is probably the same).

I've spent some time this week perusing Jerry Winker's photography website this week, some pretty awesome pictures, and really well documented by year and event, with captions showing driver/co-driver/car number/location Anyway, I stumbled across this picture (linked to respect his copyright) http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/2001/pf01/01-PF-049.jpg.html First off, pretty cool to see an RX actually rallied, but not the only time I've seen it. What is cool, is seeing one with a 5-lug swap. Also notice, this picture was taken in 2001. Long before this was so well-documented on the internet (I was trying to date Corky's page when he built the Ultimate RX.....I think 2004 or so).

It has been done, but the vast majority (if not all) of the 6-lug wheels out there do not have enough offset, so the tires will not tuck properly into the fender. What?

90% of the time, or more, "no spark" with an engine swap actually means no engine management functionality at all. Is your fuel pump being activated by the ECU as it should (prime when the key is first turned on, and on while cranking)? If so, have you tested to see if the ECU is triggering the injectors (with noid lights)?

That's true, I should look into trying to find another option that might be more readily available. I agree. 225 is a lot of tire. D3F0. Start a build thread or something, and I'll post some pics of the rear shock setup I had that was rubbing. I don't want to get into it here.