Numbchux

First picture of my friend's Forester with the new tires. This is a 2013 forester X Premium, with a 2" ADF lift (strut spacers, and rear subframe spacers), 15x7 +40 Team Dynamics Rally wheels, and 235/75r15 General Grabber AT2s (Spec at 29.1" on Tire Rack). This is with zero trimming, and only a hair of rubbing on the rear of the front wheel well while turning (we will see once we start to flex it out). 2017-07-21_04-21-38 by Numbchux, on Flickr

I stand corrected, I just looked in the replacement parts catalog (gets updated more frequently), and there it is. Starting in '98 Forester, all others in 2000 G3210FC000 is the part number for it. Googling that shows some documentation about it.

Yep, and even then it was an accessory in all but the absolute top of the line models.

Yep, I use this one quite a bit, too. As it factors in wheel width and offset, too http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp

Oh yea, I've been looking at that, too. Calculators are extremely handy for making quick comparisons of different sizes, but I've also been referencing the measured size (width, diameter, and weight) of several different model tires on tire rack.

FYI, that part number is good for '02-'06 4EAT as well.

Probably going with Kumho Road Venture AT51s I really don't want to go coilover for several reasons. Mostly cost...

806910170 x2 MSRP $0.98 ea at your local dealer

Cool. With your 20mm spacer, your backspacing at the tire works out to be pretty close to the setup I'm looking at (I have a set of 17x7 +48s, and looking at 235/65r17 A/Ts). Ditto on the outer diameter. Due to the shape of the spring perch on the strut, I'm not sure there'd be a way to accurately measure it. I've measured the clearance from my existing tire to the perch, and it looks like it should work, but it'll be close.

I complete forgot about your rig...I've been using your tire calculator many many times over the last few days. Did you ever try those tires with stock struts? or just the coilovers? Do you know the width/offset of those wheels?

I'm in the planning phase. It looks like the front spring perch will probably be the biggest limiting factor (I'm not afraid of castor bushings, and body trimming). I've seen lots of 27s and 28s, but what about bigger? 29s? Bigger (with a traditional strut top block, and without big spacers)? My particular car is a 2004 Outback VDC, but other models would be relevant. Please post wheel dimensions, too (width AND offset, or original application).

Is the Legacy FWD or AWD? The struts themselves will bolt in, if you wanted to use the whole assembly with springs and mounts, I believe the rear strut mounts will have to be swapped.

There are 2 part numbers for those crank sprockets 13021AA17A, which says MT EJ25# 02/99-05/01 (This is from the '00-'04 Legacy/Outback catalog), and "01/03-02/04 (L#+GT+SUS#+OBK#).EJ25#, Spec U5" U5 is California emission. 13021AA16A, which only has a few teeth on it, and is the same as all the earlier EJ ones, and fits all other models (Looks like '00-'01 ATs, All '02-'03, and Federal/canadian '04s). Cam sprockets follow the same pattern.

Well...it's not just for that. The engine can spin backwards while parked and in gear, it can also prevent belt jumping should you try to bump-start the car (we had a WRX in last week that had recently had a timing belt installed somewhere else with the guide way to far out, and they bump started it, and the timing jumped several teeth and caused valve damage.). Correctly installed, the belt should not be able to jump, under any circumstances. But, your point remains, that just driving down the road, that guide shouldn't come into play. The TCK304 should be the correct one, we install a couple of those a month, and I don't believe we've ever had an issue with one.

That fact that it didn't die right away, and that it sputters a bit when attempting to restart rules out timing belt for me. But trying to diagnose any further than that with the information here is pointless, IMO. Engines need compression, fuel, and spark (at the right time) to run. Diagnose those three things separately, then get a code reader to check for any diagnostic codes.

That should be fine. Spec is 1.0 mm give or take 0.5.

I'm not proud of these, but this is what I used in my Loyale for years: The carrier bearing began to fail, which I suspect was because those mounts were not placed correctly (totally eyeballed) and put some extra load on the bearing. There was an EA81 in the junkyard at the time, so I grabbed the one piece driveshaft from that, and had a shop lengthen it to the EA82 specs, and used that for years.

How did you compress the tensioner? It's not difficult to compress it too quickly and blow it. Whatever spacer you used must have been too thick. With the guide installed correctly, the belt cannot skip.

the 2.5l DOHC heads are actually extremely tough, even if it was overheated. Probably just need to throw a few valves, maybe guides, in. And some OE head gaskets (Look them up by VIN, the part number and construction was updated from original. No need to mess with ones for a turbo car or anything).

Yep, Fast2 is one of 3 catalogs that I use here. It's probably the best when it comes to searching for things without a vin, as you can narrow it down by body style, engine, transmission, etc. It also does not require any sort of license or login. If you can get your hands on the files, it will work. I have always had some weird experiences with Opposed forces. It seems to time out on some computers, I've even been able to get it to work on one browser, and not on another.....on the same computer.

Theoretically could be done if the key your cutting has more material left than the one copying. I have considered it and looked at a couple, and it wasn't possible in those cases. There are 2 keys with a light in them. They are functionally interchangeable, although the exact design of the battery tray changed, and the logo changed. The older one (with the older-style logo) has been discontinued for some time. 57430AA130 is the newer style one, and has not been discontinued, I bought a brand new one last fall, and have been using it on my XT6 all winter. It is backordered right now (Estimated available of 4/11), and MSRP of $21.97

86564GA020 MSRP $2.67 each. Still very much available through your favorite OE Subaru source. I bought a pair of brand new ones for my XT6 when I changed the blade this winter (different part #, BTW....). Seems a little pricey considering it's just a little screw, but in the grand scheme, not too bad, and nice to know you have the correct ones.

Worth that much? I don't know. But there are people who will pay that much. I've sold 2 Outbacks (a '96 Wagon and a '99 Sedan), both in similar or worse condition, for more than $3k within a week of listing them. So yea, there are exceptions, especially ones in dire need of some attention (I picked up a '97 Legacy a few weeks ago for $300, mostly just needed tires and a fuel filler neck), but Subarus generally have a really good resale value up here. I'm not saying it's definitely a good buy, but I'm also not saying it's definitely a POS. I'm just saying it might be worth looking at in person. It's a crappy ad, that's certainly going to scare away many buyers, but that can be good news if it's actually a half-decent car.

FWD cars can be towed on a dolly with the rear on the ground. Otherwise, on all 4 wheels, yes: Manual transmission is OK, Auto is not. The FWD fuse disables the AWD system, and should be used with a spare tire. As far as using it to tow on 2 wheels? No. It requires both electrical power and hydraulic pressure to function, and is DEFINITELY not intended for that big of a speed difference. No way would I be involved in that (my car, or my tow vehicle....).

Pulling CV axles every time you want to tow the car seems like a massive headache. Also, you'd have to carry the outer stubs around, as that's what holds the bearings together.