Numbchux

Oh yea, I've been looking at that, too. Calculators are extremely handy for making quick comparisons of different sizes, but I've also been referencing the measured size (width, diameter, and weight) of several different model tires on tire rack.

FYI, that part number is good for '02-'06 4EAT as well.

Probably going with Kumho Road Venture AT51s I really don't want to go coilover for several reasons. Mostly cost...

806910170 x2 MSRP $0.98 ea at your local dealer

Cool. With your 20mm spacer, your backspacing at the tire works out to be pretty close to the setup I'm looking at (I have a set of 17x7 +48s, and looking at 235/65r17 A/Ts). Ditto on the outer diameter. Due to the shape of the spring perch on the strut, I'm not sure there'd be a way to accurately measure it. I've measured the clearance from my existing tire to the perch, and it looks like it should work, but it'll be close.

I complete forgot about your rig...I've been using your tire calculator many many times over the last few days. Did you ever try those tires with stock struts? or just the coilovers? Do you know the width/offset of those wheels?

I'm in the planning phase. It looks like the front spring perch will probably be the biggest limiting factor (I'm not afraid of castor bushings, and body trimming). I've seen lots of 27s and 28s, but what about bigger? 29s? Bigger (with a traditional strut top block, and without big spacers)? My particular car is a 2004 Outback VDC, but other models would be relevant. Please post wheel dimensions, too (width AND offset, or original application).

Is the Legacy FWD or AWD? The struts themselves will bolt in, if you wanted to use the whole assembly with springs and mounts, I believe the rear strut mounts will have to be swapped.

There are 2 part numbers for those crank sprockets 13021AA17A, which says MT EJ25# 02/99-05/01 (This is from the '00-'04 Legacy/Outback catalog), and "01/03-02/04 (L#+GT+SUS#+OBK#).EJ25#, Spec U5" U5 is California emission. 13021AA16A, which only has a few teeth on it, and is the same as all the earlier EJ ones, and fits all other models (Looks like '00-'01 ATs, All '02-'03, and Federal/canadian '04s). Cam sprockets follow the same pattern.

Well...it's not just for that. The engine can spin backwards while parked and in gear, it can also prevent belt jumping should you try to bump-start the car (we had a WRX in last week that had recently had a timing belt installed somewhere else with the guide way to far out, and they bump started it, and the timing jumped several teeth and caused valve damage.). Correctly installed, the belt should not be able to jump, under any circumstances. But, your point remains, that just driving down the road, that guide shouldn't come into play. The TCK304 should be the correct one, we install a couple of those a month, and I don't believe we've ever had an issue with one.

That fact that it didn't die right away, and that it sputters a bit when attempting to restart rules out timing belt for me. But trying to diagnose any further than that with the information here is pointless, IMO. Engines need compression, fuel, and spark (at the right time) to run. Diagnose those three things separately, then get a code reader to check for any diagnostic codes.

That should be fine. Spec is 1.0 mm give or take 0.5.

I'm not proud of these, but this is what I used in my Loyale for years: The carrier bearing began to fail, which I suspect was because those mounts were not placed correctly (totally eyeballed) and put some extra load on the bearing. There was an EA81 in the junkyard at the time, so I grabbed the one piece driveshaft from that, and had a shop lengthen it to the EA82 specs, and used that for years.

How did you compress the tensioner? It's not difficult to compress it too quickly and blow it. Whatever spacer you used must have been too thick. With the guide installed correctly, the belt cannot skip.

the 2.5l DOHC heads are actually extremely tough, even if it was overheated. Probably just need to throw a few valves, maybe guides, in. And some OE head gaskets (Look them up by VIN, the part number and construction was updated from original. No need to mess with ones for a turbo car or anything).

Yep, Fast2 is one of 3 catalogs that I use here. It's probably the best when it comes to searching for things without a vin, as you can narrow it down by body style, engine, transmission, etc. It also does not require any sort of license or login. If you can get your hands on the files, it will work. I have always had some weird experiences with Opposed forces. It seems to time out on some computers, I've even been able to get it to work on one browser, and not on another.....on the same computer.

Theoretically could be done if the key your cutting has more material left than the one copying. I have considered it and looked at a couple, and it wasn't possible in those cases. There are 2 keys with a light in them. They are functionally interchangeable, although the exact design of the battery tray changed, and the logo changed. The older one (with the older-style logo) has been discontinued for some time. 57430AA130 is the newer style one, and has not been discontinued, I bought a brand new one last fall, and have been using it on my XT6 all winter. It is backordered right now (Estimated available of 4/11), and MSRP of $21.97

86564GA020 MSRP $2.67 each. Still very much available through your favorite OE Subaru source. I bought a pair of brand new ones for my XT6 when I changed the blade this winter (different part #, BTW....). Seems a little pricey considering it's just a little screw, but in the grand scheme, not too bad, and nice to know you have the correct ones.

Worth that much? I don't know. But there are people who will pay that much. I've sold 2 Outbacks (a '96 Wagon and a '99 Sedan), both in similar or worse condition, for more than $3k within a week of listing them. So yea, there are exceptions, especially ones in dire need of some attention (I picked up a '97 Legacy a few weeks ago for $300, mostly just needed tires and a fuel filler neck), but Subarus generally have a really good resale value up here. I'm not saying it's definitely a good buy, but I'm also not saying it's definitely a POS. I'm just saying it might be worth looking at in person. It's a crappy ad, that's certainly going to scare away many buyers, but that can be good news if it's actually a half-decent car.

FWD cars can be towed on a dolly with the rear on the ground. Otherwise, on all 4 wheels, yes: Manual transmission is OK, Auto is not. The FWD fuse disables the AWD system, and should be used with a spare tire. As far as using it to tow on 2 wheels? No. It requires both electrical power and hydraulic pressure to function, and is DEFINITELY not intended for that big of a speed difference. No way would I be involved in that (my car, or my tow vehicle....).

Pulling CV axles every time you want to tow the car seems like a massive headache. Also, you'd have to carry the outer stubs around, as that's what holds the bearings together.

I did remember to check, and the stamp was still legible. 12" long, 250 lb/in springs, on KYB GR2s for a 4WD EA82 wagon, with stock upper mounts: This gives a slightly taller ride height, and matches my stock WRX front springs very well.

Yea, the 2013 should be a CVT, which is a little better than the older automatics, but still will not sufficiently lubricate themselves for anything more than very short and slow tows (like, emergency flat tow to the next freeway exit, etc.)

That's one thing for a very short emergency tow, but please don't plan on it! Right out of the Subaru 2003 Outback accessory catalog, the car is rated for 2000 lb. In 2005, the H6 models went to 3000 lb, and the Tribecas had an accessory transmission cooler available that brought it to 3500. Now, I have seen several hitches for 00-04 Outbacks that are rated for 3500 (the hitch....not the car), but they're all 1 1/4" receivers. I put an auxiliary transmission cooler on the 2004 Outback I'm repairing to be my wife's daily driver, because we will likely push it a little hard with bikes on the roof, and a boat, and such. But I wouldn't even consider towing a car trailer. An SVX weighs close to 4000lbs, and figure another 2000 or so for a steel trailer (Uhaul trailers weigh 2210). Featherlight Aluminum trailers are more like 1300....but still, you're well over 5000. You could go with a dolly, which only weighs a few hundred pounds, but the concern there is the tongue weight. Under braking, the force of the car being towed is above the centerline of the wheels on the dolly, which turns all that force into downward force on the tongue. I rented a dolly from a private rental yard to tow my Celica home when I bought it. They made me sign a waiver to do it with a 3500/350 hitch, even though I was about 1000 lb under the curb weight rating of the equipment, that want a minimum of 500lb tongue weight rating. Also, you'd have to remove the driveshaft of the SVX....

Paying a shop to do Head Gaskets can easily get to $2k, especially if it needs ANYTHING else (head work, timing components/covers, power steering something....there's a lot of things that could come up with the engine out). With the Head Gaskets blown, it can't be test driven. So from a buyer's perspective, there's no way to know that it's got a good transmission, suspension, brakes, bearings, etc. etc. And it will have to be picked up with a trailer. So now your talking about a maybe $2k car that needs at least $2k. So it's value is probably similar to scrap. A few hundred bucks. Now, I see your in New England...I've been lead to believe that you guys have some serious rust issues on cars. So, if it's a solid shell, that could drive it's value up, regardless of the miles. But it could still potentially be a money pit.