Numbchux

DOH. Brain fart. I did the formula for Circumference (Pi*D)....not Area It doesn't completely throw the comparison off, since I did it all the same way, but I redid it correctly and edited my post.

Wow, those look sweet. I'm tempted to grab a pair for our Outback when I do the lift.

AWD lever? It has no such thing.....

The primary reason to do this upgrade, is to regain some of the leverage lost by upgrading calipers. But ultimately it takes a pretty significant change to make it genuinely dangerous. And it's almost impossible to describe it. Food for thought, it's extremely common practice on stage rally cars to completely remove the brake booster (as the constant modulation of both brakes and throttle simultaneously that is common in rally technique will use up the vacuum in the booster, and give very inconsistent brake force), and it's still more than possible to make an emergency stop for most people (no, your elderly mother probably can't, but she won't be able to get in over the roll cage, either). Some math for you. A stock XT6 has about 5992 square mm of total Caliper piston area (54mm front pistons, and 30mm rear, 2 of each), and 452 square mm of Master Cylinder area. Which means, assuming the same volume of fluid passed through the system, the piston travel ratio is about 13:1 (13mm of travel at the Master, moves the caliper pistons 1mm. Note, this does not take into account the mechanical advantage of the pedal). My XT6 has dual-piston, ver. 1 WRX front calipers, and Nissan 200SX rears, leaving me with a total area of 8076 square mm (4 front pistons at 43mm, and 2 rears at 38). Before I swapped the Master Cylinder, left me with a ratio of over 17:1, not to mention the air in the system. And the 1 1/16 Master is 572 square mm, that makes a ratio of 14:1. Which actually means I still have less leverage than a stock car. If you were to do this Master Cylinder upgrade, with stock XT6 calipers (5992/572), you'd have a ratio of closer to 10.5:1. of course, none of this takes into account the fact that I also went from 260mm rotors to 276mm, or that dual piston calipers apply the force more efficiently to the pad than single, etc. etc. Ultimately, the change in the amount of force required on the pedal is very reasonable, but the change in how far your foot has to move to do the same job is considerable. This reduces your reaction time to apply the brakes, which is where the advantage comes in.

That's what we quote for head gaskets up here at the dealer in Duluth. And that leans a bit on the worst-case side of things. I assume that Morries' MNSubaru discount is 10% off their hourly rate, at the raw time it takes to do the job, which is usually less than book time.

I assume that Uberoo was referring to an EA81 car with this post, but in typical fashion, it's pretty unclear what he's working on and how it needed to be modified. But it sounds to me like the EA82/EJ 2-bolt pattern between the master cylinder and the booster is slightly different from the EA81, and so the EJ master would need to be modified slightly, but does still work.

Hopefully I've made it clear that I have a huge amount of respect for people doing something different. But I have to argue this point. I don't believe for a second that stock-for-stock an EA81 has more torque at any point in the range than an EJ22. And if you hopped up an EJ22 to 10:1 or more...it'd be a monster.

Morries Minnetonka Subaru has many Subaru enthusiasts in the parts and service departments, and if you mention the Minnesota Subaru club (www.mnsubaru.com, if you're interested), you get 20% off parts and 10% off service. It's not much, but it helps, and you know it'll be done right.

Yep, probably head gaskets. That's super common on those. Good news, is they don't almost ever fail catastrophically. They leak oil externally for quite awhile, and then they'll start to burn coolant. Keep an eye on the fluids. Obviously if you run out of either, that's very bad news. Also be mindful of any evidence that they start to mix. Coolant in the oil can cause serious damage, even without running out of oil. My wife's '03 Outback had signs of head gasket leakage when we got it at 105k. It now has closer to 150k. Yes, both leaks have gotten worse, but it still runs great, and I've noticed no signs of oil contamination. I will probably replace the head gaskets very soon, as I plan to sell the car.

Yes, it's been done many times and is a considerable upgrade. Not so much with the dual-range ones, but that doesn't change much.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-NISSAN-MAG-LUG-NUTS-12X1-25-FITS-MOST-NISSAN-INFINITI-OEM-WHEELS-/161990333202?hash=item25b7605312:g:Tx4AAOSwKtVW0O0u&vxp=mtr

This is a myth. Here's my wife's '03 Outback with '98 Outback 15" wheels on it: Which has the 296mm front brakes and 290mm rear (commonly called H6, but was put on all Outbacks mid-year 2002). I had to grind the front calipers a bit, but the rears fit just fine. The 2-pot, vented 290mm '06-'07 WRX rear brakes will also fit under stock 15s. However, the matching 296mm 4-pot fronts will hit the spokes on OE 16x6.5" wheels (I have not tried grinding them, although I just got my hands on a pair needing a rebuild....).

Well, from your description the important change between the 2 times you checked, is that the other rear wheel was off the ground. I'm assuming this time that the other rear wheel spun when you tried it (if not, you had some kind of failure happen in those 3 weeks, but I find that highly unlikely). Something else to keep in mind, is in an Automatic transmission Subaru, with the engine off (transmission not building fluid pressure), the AWD is basically disengaged. So the driveshaft can spin in the rear of the transmission by hand regardless of what the front wheels are doing, or whether it's in park. Considering those factors. I think one of 2 things is happening, depending whether you have a rear LSD or not. Most likely, you have a car with a rear LSD (AFAIK, Forester S models, but I could be wrong. If you want to pm me the last 8 digits of your VIN, I can look it up and tell for sure). With both rear tires in the air, they both spin the same direction, and so does the driveshaft. But no major resistance. But with that other rear tire on the ground, you would have to overcome the LSD, which is not really possible by hand. If not, when it's in the air, the path of least resistance is for the other rear wheel to spin the opposite direction, and the driveshaft not to move. But with one rear wheel on the ground, an open diff should allow one tire to spin, while there is some resistance on the driveshaft, normally easily overcome by hand. But, it's possible that you have something not allowing the transfer clutches to release (rust/corrosion on the drum, etc.). You would definitely have drivetrain binding when driving it, if this were the case.

Well, sounds like you already know everything. Good luck!

Don't bother. The VLSD is much better. Certainly not worth the work. Especially since I've seen 5MT DCCD assemblies for $500, which means you wouldn't have to open the front of the trans to swap the ring and pinion

The best place in the cities for Subaru engine modifications: https://mnsubaru.com/reviews/nf-performance.41030/

Only you can know what's "enough". or "worth it" The EA82 chassis is much lighter than the EJs, so even a stock EJ22 feels pretty quick in an EA82. I have seen WRX swaps pieced together for pretty cheap (like $1000, or so). And you could easily spend $10k on parts for a full STi setup. And a stock SOHC N/A EJ25 is 160hp, which might be enough for you. There are options for hybrid engines that bump up compression (my favorite is a EJ251/3 shortblock with EJ25D heads). There are 6-cylinder engines that are a lot of fun, and over 200hp N/A. Stock WRX/STi ECUs are extremely tuneable, just with some software and a cable. Standalones offer even more flexibility for future mods. Yes, you'll probably want to upgrade your suspension, brakes, and transmission. There are a myriad of options on how to do all that, depending what parts you have available, what you want to spend, and exactly what you want.

Yep, and the aftermarket ones bother me more than most people because I have so many cars, and almost all of them with a different aftermarket deck in them. And because I have several different cars, the batteries get swapped between them, or brought inside and put on a maintainer. Which means all my settings go out the window every time.

I'm not convinced I can see the timing mark on that crank sprocket. It's a pretty small mark on one of the tabs that make up the tone wheel. And yea, crank sprocket only has to come off to get the covers off intact. If you don't care about the covers, it is definitely possible to change the belt with it on.

I had a few that had stopped working because the vacuum switch in the control head was leaking. I have pulled them apart a couple times, and tried to reseal them, without luck. On my last EA82, I did a little trial and error, but bypassed the whole control head with a vacuum tee fitting, so that it was always in heat/defrost. You only use function of the 2 vents right over the radio, and recirc.

or just swap the rear diff. Really not that bad. Also, SVX and Turbo Legacy had an extra plate in the clutches for a bit of extra strength. Any other 4EAT will not be quite as strong.

VW wide 5 is a very common bolt pattern, with a very large number of wheels available. He probably could have given you a starting point, but there's still a ton of variables. Just keep in mind, that adapter will soak up some (I'd guess 10 mm or so) of the offset of whatever VW wheel you're comparing to.

OK, I've actually test-fitted a 4.444 x 1.59 transmission with an EA bellhousing. If I hadn't spent so much time and money on using that Carbonetic diff, it would be in my Brat. I've run EJ internals in an XT6 case in my '88 XT6. FT4WD EA82 pinion shaft is considerably longer than an EJ one. So it would have to be lengthened. It's been discussed on here that it is theoretically possible to cut them both, and weld them together, but that's some seriously precision fab work, in a crucial part of the car. I wouldn't run it.... Here's some comparison shots of the 2: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129898-4444-x-1592-x-3545-251/?do=findComment&comment=1104016 PT4WD EA82 pinion shaft is not a separate piece from the transmission output shaft, and only leaves one set of output splines to the transfer housing. I haven't had one of those apart, so I don't know exactly how that all interfaces with the transfer mechanism, but it's a pretty significant change in design.... The available adapter plates are for putting an EJ engine to an EA transmission. It will not work the same the other way (EJ transmission bellhousing is deeper, so adding an adapter plate means the input shaft is now several inches too short).

EA81 transmissions are VERY different from EA82 and EJ ones. AFAIK, there are no other gearing options for the EA81. EJ Dual range will not bolt to your EA81 engine. So the only way to do that is to do the EJ swap anyway. To return your car to the same rpm range as stock, you would need about a 4.7:1 axle ratio... 4.444 is the lowest ratio available. Only way (without serious custom fabrication) to get 4.444s and 1.59:1 low with an EA81 is a pretty considerable frankentrans.....here's the recipe. '87-'89 Subaru RX FT4WD Dual Range transmission 4.444 5MT EJ front ring and pinion (not very common used, but not super expensive from Subaru. 38100AB681) Any EJ center diff and housing (phase 1 or phase 2. There is a super strong Group N center diff available for the Phase 2 housing. Also 5MT DCCD setups would work. no, no factory 4WD setup will work without serious fabbing) '85-'89 Subaru GL PT4WD non-turbo Dual range transmission low range gearset and axle stubs (or convert your EA81 axles to 25-spline) EA82/XT6 clutch/flywheel/starter Lengthened Ea81 driveshaft (I think, IIRC the EA82 trans is quite a bit shorter than the EA81, and the EJ rear housing is a bit longer...) EJ transmission mount (since it bolts to the center diff housing) Crossmember modification for said mount 4.444 rear diff (much more common than the front R&P, since it can come from an automatic car, but will require some custom work to mate with axles) Customized EJ shift linkage The RX box (as with any EA82t) uses a much shorter 5th gear, even than the 4th gear in the Ea81 4MT. You may want to swap for the standard EA82 5th gear.....you will want to do considerable research on that. I have at least a couple threads around talking about these gear ratio differences. That can all be done, I'm "in the process" (I have been for probably 4 years) of building that exact combination for my Brat. FYI, a Carbonetic front LSD for a WRX will bolt into an EA82 5MT transmission, but will not clear 1.59 low range, not at all. I've made zero progress since that discovery. I happened to have an RX donor box. But they can be hard to get your hands on. It might be easier to get an EJ D/R donor box, in which case, you'd only need the 4.444 R&P, 1.59/23 spline stub donor box, and the external parts for the installation. Then do the EJ swap while you're at it, you'll get the benefits of the EJ swap, and MUUUCH better clutch options. Not to mention no need for an adapter plate.

Yep, EA82 pump is under the car near the RR tire. Rubber Fuel Injection line is perfect.