Numbchux

Don't worry about it. It changed hands twice since I sold it, and the kid who did own/crash it was drunk driving at the time, so I don't feel bad for him. And the car was pretty well completely rotted out, so I don't really feel bad for it either. Wish I'd gotten some parts off it, but oh well.

IIRC, an EA82 shaft will fit, just have to make a mount for the carrier bearing. And, about 8 years ago, I had an EA81 wagon one-piece shaft lengthened for use in an EA82. 6" sounds right. Local driveshaft shop did it, but there was no warranty (they had to machine the flanges down a bit from metric to a standard tube size), Still no problems when the car was wrecked this last summer.

I haven't found anywhere online that is as good when it comes time to warranty parts as any local place (not that NAPA is that great, I think AutoZone beats the pants off the rest for warranty). The fact of life with aftermarket parts, is a higher failure rate than OE, so you will be replacing them under warranty. You can buy the same part online for a lot less, but there's no, or very little, warranty support (you can probably get refunded for the part, but you have to pay up front for the replacement, and you'll probably be out shipping...). Look into US Auto Force. I don't know how nationwide they are, but we deal with them all the time for tires (we have almost the full gambit of local parts stores), and occasionally more, and they've been pretty good. I've looked a little at some of their parts availability, too, and it's pretty good, competitive prices, and good warranty coverage (again, we mostly deal with them for tires...). I've never called to order a part, but they have a good website using Nexpart for lookup (which is as reliable as anything...like RockAuto, sometimes entering year, make, model, engine gives you options that aren't available with that combination, but they do list dimensions and such so you can narrow it down yourself). With that said, we have an Amazon Prime account for the shop, and frequently order parts and supplies through them. The database is definitely not designed for auto parts, but you can look stuff up elsewhere, and then search for a part number.

Forester stuff won't get you much, if any. I believe the accepted combination is 6-cyl front springs (assuming yours is a 4-cyl), and Baja rear for something like an inch and a half. SJR makes a block lift kit for them, too.

Nope, they have a MAF and MAP Like has been mentioned, that link is for OBD I cars, and yours is OBD II. Get your hands on a scan tool, just about everything on your list (and more) can probably be diagnosed by reading the live data on one. Something is telling the ECU to cut fuel. Plug in a code reader, go to the live data page, and look at TPS, MAF, MAP, and O2 signals, and see if they're doing anything strange. And yes, TPS is 5v

I'm fairly sure those have a MAP, mounted over on the RH strut tower. I know a '96 does, and while the '95 ECU is a unique animal, the rest of the management is pretty similar. With or without, a vacuum leak can cause problems (letting in air after the MAF = low reading at the MAF = less fuel). A '95 2.2 does have a fairly primitive OBDII, it would be worth hooking up a code reader and looking for stored codes, and watching live data of the TPS, MAF, and O2 while acting up. Probably way easier and more accurate than trying to read it with a scope. Also, a pre-O2 exhaust leak can throw the reading off....make sure the manifold gaskets aren't blown out, and all studs/nuts are present.

Grain of salt....never done it with an EA81...but I had a couple thoughts I thought I'd share. If the issue is about travel, changing the cable won't help, that just gives you more adjustment range. If you need more travel, you need to change the leverage on one end or the other. I'm curious, a '98 [Legacy] Outback would be a hydraulic push-style case, easy enough to convert to cable, but requires moving the pivot ball and replacing the fork to change the leverage angle. Did you do that? Or was your donor an Outback Sport, in which case it would already have been cable? I thought that EA82 and EJ forks were interchangeable, but looks like they are not the same part number, so I could be wrong. But, even so, EJ transmissions definitely work in EA82 bodies, and EA82 trannies are swapped into EA81s all the time.....I would think it *should* be in the adjustment range of the stock cable.

IIRC, Brad had a post about that with some history. That it was basically a completely optioned-out GL-10, and the only thing different between it and an RX is a few decals, and that it isn't white...

Step one on that list has been wiring. When I did the engine swap, I did what I tell everyone never to do....and that is install it unfinished, and diagnose as I went. This had actually started causing issues (extra wires, poor routing, not sealed, etc.), and because of how tight behind the engine it was routed it was not possible to adequately clean up the wiring, and finalize the install. So, I pulled the intake manifold and distributor so I would have room to work, and pulled the GM harness completely back out. I've completely removed everything unused, I've shortened some of the wiring to clean up the install, I'll be using heat shrink fabric tubing to clean up the install and protect the wires. This way I can document exactly how it was done so a future owner doesn't have to reverse engineer what I did before being able to diagnose any issues. I also did have an auxiliary fuse panel for some of my extra circuits mounted to the kick panel near the passenger door. I believe do to it's proximity to the door, this panel got some moisture in it, and corroded really badly. So, I've got a much nicer Blue Sea fuse panel that I'll be mounting behind the glove box. In an effort to get better routing for the wiring, I decided I would drill a new hole for the wiring to pass through right behind the A/C evaporator, and since the rest of the A/C system has been deleted, I swapped out the evap box for the duct out of a truck that didn't have A/C (ebay for about $30...): This improves the amount of room behind the glove box immensely!! The fuse box will mount to the front side of it, and it leaves enough room above and behind it to mount the GM ECU safely.

Well, long time without update. Didn't do any wheeling in the 4.3Runner this summer. I got married in Alaska in June, we drove the 4.3Runner to our Reception barely into August here in MN which was really fun. There's a 1/8 mile drag race run on a public street right in the heart of town every year. I put the 4.3Runner in the car show with my buddy's Jeep on 35's. That was pretty fun, and the first time I had the topper off in a couple years. Over Labor day weekend, some good friends and I took a mountain biking trip to visit another friend near Breckenridge, Colorado. We spent 2 days riding downhill at Keystone, and then drove out to Moab to ride some cross country. Unfortunately, I took a nasty tumble early in the first day at Keystone, and broke my collar bone. While that took me out of riding for the rest of the trip, I still had a blast. First time in Moab. We did some dispersed camping for a couple nights. Our group was 2 Tacomas, a WJ Grand-Cherokee and a Ford Focus. The Focus got a little beat up getting to our first campsite. The second night, we set up camp closer to town, left the Focus and the bikes, and explored further out. It was a blast, some of the most fun I've ever had offroad. We made our way up along the side of a canyon, and watched the sun set from the top of the pass into the next canyon. This made me realize something. While I love the 4.3Runner, it would have been miserable on the road, and bored on the trail... I could tow it out, but then I'd be stuck setting up camp somewhere, and then making day trips. I'd really like to have more of an expedition rig, and while this rig could do it, I think I'd rather trade some sheer offroad capability for something with better street manners, more seats, more doors, Air-Conditioning, and towing capacity. Long story short, I've decided to sell the 4.3Runner, looking at likely getting a Sequoia. Maybe an FJ100 cruiser if I find a deal, but I think I'd rather have the space of the Sequoia than the aftermarket support of the cruiser. With that said, I've put together a plan of projects to wrap up some of the issues that have shown up, finish the projects I've started, and get it ready for a new owner. I'll document most of that here this winter, and hopefully be starting a new build thread next spring

Been done many times. Those ECUs are surprisingly quick to adjust fuel ratios for a little boost. You won't get any timing, though, so that's the big limit. We did it on my buddy's '95 impreza 3 times, the first 2 had issues due to supporting mods (Piggy backs....3rd time we let 'er buck on the stock tune, and it ran fantastically for about 30k miles). That 2.2 had well over 200k miles when we pulled it out for a WRX swap. I've seen several just push 7ish psi through them with almost zero other mods (hotter plugs, gapped a little tighter...). If I were to do it, I'd swap to parallel fuel rails, with pump and regulator for higher pressure. More fuel with the same setup, and better fuel atomization.

I wonder if anyone has used one of Bill's adapter bellhousings to a Toyota 4WD transmission. That might gain some clearance for a second diff without having to go so high. 4.444s are possible, and make for some pretty sweet gears, it's also pretty easy to swap to a higher 5th gear to compensate on the freeway. But, if you do lift it, it's probably not enough to compensate for larger tires.

Yea, if you're switching to 5x114.3, you'll likely be looking for different brake options, too (which you'll have a ton of options....might even be able to use 5x114 subaru stuff...). But, yea, I don't think there's a good way to have both patterns in the hub, as the 114 will require a larger OD of the hub, which won't fit in most 100 rotors. The end product would definitely be useful. SVX front suspension/brakes are very different than other Subarus, so probably not much help there, but there are plenty of other Subarus that are 5x114.3 and everything else is very similar (Tribeca, '05+ STi, '15+ Outback, '15+ WRX), it's definitely a MUUUUCH more common bolt pattern.

I've dropped the engine/trans/crossmembers as an assembly several times on Subarus. I usually take the suspension off, but if you can safely lift the car high enough, it would certainly be possible to leave it all together. With a hoist, it would be crazy easy.

I'm going to drag this up from the archives for future reference. I just spent quite a bit of time searching for the solution to this for a customer. Googled the part number, and found this thread. We pulled out the old bulletin books, as there is a bulletin associated with that part number, even though it's not available online. Sure enough, it says that it's mis-labeled in one of those 2 diagrams, and should be #807907372. The bulletin is dated 1996......still not fixed....in any of the catalogs, digital or otherwise.

Still accurate, but this being an '84 would be an EA81. The stock oil pressure gauge is not very accurate. I'd want a better reading before condemning it to failure. It's possible you have an oil pump issue, but might not. Typical rule of thumb for warm oil pressure, is 10psi per 1k rpms. So you're pretty close.... The running issue could just be a tuneup. Plugs, wires, Distributor cap/rotor, fuel filter, just as a start. The carb sitting with the same fuel in the bowl for 8 years is not a good thing, probably should get rebuilt. Hard to say about the oil usage. There are several things that could cause that, I'd probably want to do a compression (wet isn't as accurate on a horizontal cylinder...but still might tell you something) and leakdown test to try identify if there are issues with the major mechanical components.

Seconded Get a catless up-pipe and then tune. Right now you're pushing more air into the system without adjusting the fuel to compensate. You'd think with the MAF, MAP, and Oxygen sensors, it would be able to compensate, and it does a bit, but not enough. There are a few other supporting mods that you can do to improve turbo response and fueling (I'm specifically thinking of an upgraded boost control solenoid, and parallel fuel rails).

I sort of agree. Longer, equal-length primaries of an aftermarket header will give a little more performance, but really not much. Unless you're going twin scroll, or relocating the turbo (i.e. bumper/fog light mount), there isn't much point.

Glad to hear it!

For what it's worth....I don't have anything to add, but I've been watching, and am glad you followed up. The EA81 disc under the XT6 pressure plate was the correct combination?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/81963-ea8182-mt-gear-ratios/

Yea. They're the same as a PT4WD EA82 trans. Same 1st gear, other 4 are all a bit taller. It will yield lower cruising rpms in 5th than the 3.7 RX trans.

BUT, there are no direct 23-spline options for the 4EAT. The only way to get a Subaru auto with 23-splines is the 3AT, which use the same stubs as the MT. The only difference between them is the groove for the circlip/snapring....so a skilled lathe operator could modify a pair of 23-spline MT stubs to work in place of the 4EAT stubs (I have a pair of stubs modified in just such a manner on my workbench).

They are not the same. Most are interchangeable. The Loyale ones have a the lower outlet straight out. and the '85-'89 EA82s have it at an angle. You only need the different hose to retrofit... OE rads for a manual transmission do not have a transmission cooler in them, aftermarket ones do and you just leave the lines plugged. So if you have an auto trans, keep that in mind (A standalone transmission cooler could be used, but water-to-air coolers are considerably less efficient, and typically not thermostatically controlled). Some EA82s (turbos, I think) had 2-row. Extra cooling capacity which is usually overkill....but worth considering.

I've done it several times pulling the engine or transmission. The transmission isn't too bad IF the car is lifted. But on a stock car, pulling the engine is way easier. Only downside is it requires an engine hoist....but I think it's certainly easier, at the very least, you're not doing everything laying under the car.... "Correctly" is to resurface the flywheel.....I almost never do unless it's in pretty rough shape. IMO, if the rear main isn't leaking, don't bother. Due to it's size, it's fairly easy to screw up during install. Too much chance of causing a problem where there wasn't.