Numbchux

Another 450ish miles this weekend. Loaded up the bikes, hooked up the jet ski ('89 Kawasaki 650SX...if you were wondering) and set off across country to our family's cabin. It was over 90 degrees for most of the drive over, and it never missed a beat. Set the cruise, set the climate control, awesome. 20160701_184051 by Numbchux, on Flickr Just over 4 weeks until we close on the new house, and then I'll have a garage (and our payments should be about $200/month less than we're paying in rent now....)!

3 bolts. It's not uncommon for them to strip after a few uses. We have one of them in stock. And they're only like $35 MSRP brand new from Subaru.

For a patient buyer, $500 is a healthy budget for a good EJ22 donor car up here (I bought a '97 with a rusted filler neck this winter for $300).

Yep. That same AWD system was used in the EA82ts EA82t and XT6s had completely different gearing.

The transmission that is in that is unique to the RXs. Full-time 4WD with locking center and low range. The XT6s had full-time 4WD, but were a 3.9 ratio, so you'd have to swap the rear diff. And they don't have low range. The turbo EA82s from '87-'90 had a transmission that's virtually identical to the RX trans, except without the low range.

Similar horsepower to an EJ22. Virtually zero modification support for the engine. Requires a LOT of modification to the chassis. Difficult to get parts for. I love the ER27. But I would never swap it into anything. It's been done a half a dozen times or so. The radiator has to move a LOT. The brat that was already linked here had a ton of lift, and the radiator mounted horizontally over the engine (that swap was also done 12-15 years ago, and IIRC the rust had caught up with that chassis long ago. Probably not around anymore). Most of the others have no grill, tube bumpers, and frequently only the outside headlights. There was a member here in MN about 10 years ago who did it into an EA81 hatch (identical engine bay) that I saw in person. It does not fit well. Here's Adam NDJs '82 with an ER27: Also, the ECU is mounted in the trunk in the XT6, so the wiring is several times more complicated than an EJ swap.

'00-'09 Legacy/Outback multi-link is very different from '08+ Impreza/forester and '10+ Legacy/Outback. I know the 2 bolts in the top hat are spaced further apart in the newer ones. But the shock/spring are simple enough that they may work. '00-'09 Outback is the only thing I know of that would be a bolt-on strut lift for the rear of an '02 Legacy. More options for the front, but probably simplest to get the same. Baja rear springs yield a small lift on an Outback. H6 front springs yield a small lift on a 4-cyl Outback.

Yes, 3rd wire is a grounded shield.

Yes, although I don't think I would try to solder right onto the connector. I know someone who got the newer style pigtail at a junkyard, and spliced it to the pigtail off his old sensor to make a plug and play jumper harness.

Exhaust leaks identified: 20160623_165837 by Numbchux, on Flickr And fixed, OBX Stainless set from eBay: 20160623_173614 by Numbchux, on Flickr If you look closely in that picture, you can see that the OBX header set doesn't have the mounting tabs to the transmission. So I made up a little metal bracket that bolted to the tab coming off the transmission, and then clamped to the exhaust: 20160625_095144 by Numbchux, on Flickr 45* Stainless oxygen sensor spacer required to prevent P0420 and keep the sensor off the driveshaft: 20160625_095131 by Numbchux, on Flickr 20160625_095137 by Numbchux, on Flickr

2005 and 2010 were the first years of major body style changes. 2013 saw a completely new 4-cylinder engine (you probably won't find any of those in your budget). 2010+ 4-cylinders got the CVT, in this market, you wouldn't see one that new for $10k unless it had 300k miles on it, but should you happen to see one, don't be scared of it but make sure you drive it before you buy it. They're very different to drive, and some people just can't stand it. 2005-2009 cars had 3 engine options. SOHC non-turbo 2.5l 4-cyl. These are fairly notorious for head gasket issues. They don't almost ever blow catastrophically, but they leak oil externally, and burn a little coolant. If it hasn't been overheated, you can just throw the updated gasket (the part number and design has been superceded and improved. Buy them from Subaru by your VIN) in it and be good to go. Ask about head gasket history. Get the car up in the air, and look at the bottom of the heads, near the exhaust port, to see if there is any oil on the bottom of the engine indicating a likely head gasket leak. These got variable valve timing in 2006 There was also a DOHC Turbo 2.5l 4-cyl. These require more consistent oil changes. So be extra vigilant about service records. I don't generally recommend them for daily driver use. And the 3.0l 6-cyl. I love this engine, decent power, but very reliable. Timing chains, so no worry about timing belt maintenance. They are pretty tight in the engine bay, so they can be kind of difficult to work on, but generally don't need as many major repairs. 4-cyl engines were available with a 4-speed Auto, or a 5-speed Manual. 6-cyls with a 5-speed Auto. 2005 Outbacks with the non-turbo 4-cyl did not have an immobilizer, all others (turbo, 6-cyl in 2005, and all 2006+) do have an immobilizer. This makes key replacement much more expensive. Beyond that, pretty much normal used car stuff....

Agreed on it probably being overkill. Your car likely already has '03-'05 WRX front brakes on it. '06-'07 uses the same size front rotor, but a significantly larger caliper. This is arguably not an upgrade unless you are on a track, and even still, you probably don't have enough horsepower to build up enough heat in the system to see any real improvements. But, if you do want to do it, the calipers will bolt right up. Rotors do not need to be changed. Your wheels will probably not clear them. AFAIK, the only OE 16" wheel that will clear 4 pots are the 2 styles of 16x7 from the '98-'01 2.5RS, and not all 17s will either. Although it's not a diameter issue, so a small wheel spacer will resolve it.

Water pump is driven by the timing chain. It's a big job (and not common). There are many other possible suspects, though. Rubber, and steel lines running across in front of the oil pan to the oil cooler. Similar running back along the bottom of the driver's side head to the heater core.

The fog lights are almost certainly the same, it comes in an accessory kit from Subaru with all the mounting brackets and such. Ditto with the auto-dimming mirror. Ask about the remote start. The Subaru system isn't awesome. Depending on the brand and installer, if they're going aftermarket could be considerably better. We have a great local installer that deals with Compustar systems, and we contract through him for many of the customers at the dealership where I work. The bumper applique is nice. It's a really thick, tough clear vinyl sticker that goes on the top of the rear bumper, to keep the paint from getting scratched when loading and unloading the trunk. Only you can know how likely you are to damage the paint, and how much you'd be willing to spend to protect it.

At the dealership where I work, we have a regular 30k mile service. It involves engine and cabin air filters, a bottle of Subaru fuel injection cleaner, flushing a pint of brake fluid, and a drain-and-fill on differentials and transmission. 60k miles adds spark plugs to that list. Certainly on the overkill side of things, but that's not always a bad thing when it comes to preventative maintenance. Assuming it's a CVT and not a manual, front and rear diff just get 75w90 or 80w90 gear oil. But the main transmission gets a special Subaru-only (I am not aware of a suitable equivalent, anyway) CVT fluid. MSRP on it is $13.33 a quart, and a normal drain-and-fill requires just under 6 quarts. I would not trust this to a shop that's not VERY familiar with these transmissions, the drain and fill plugs on the transmission are not difficult to confuse, we field calls on a regular basis from people who have pulled one or both of them incorrectly (DIYers and reputable shops alike).

That'll be a SOHC 2.5l Engine. Bad news, I pretty much guarantee the head gaskets are leaking already. Good news, head gasket "failure" on those is relatively minor. They leak oil externally, and then eventually they will start to burn just a little coolant. We have a 2003 Outback that we've put about 40k miles on since we bought it that had leaking head gaskets then. Check the oil/coolant every time you get gas (we probably have to add a quart, maybe 2, per oil change, and top of the coolant reservoir a few times a year). It is not a catastrophic blow that makes the car un-driveable.

PAG 100. I followed the Service Manual suggestion for the parts I replaced.

Probably oil pressure switch. ~$10 aftermarket, MSRP $22.75 from Subaru. Pretty easy job.

It definitely does

Yes, cruise is disabled on those with any CEL. Read the code, on those it doesn't even require a scanner: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/19053-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

Yea, if you get air in the master cylinder, it really needs to be removed and bench-bled to get all the air. The bottleneck from the master bore down into the lines is so extreme that you'll almost never push all the air through it. It's possible you've pushed enough through now to get it...

Almost 650 miles on it this weekend.... A good friend of mine recently lifted his 2013 Forester (It's been mentioned and pictured here...), and he was anxious to bring it up to the OHV recreation area in Gilbert, in northern Minnesota. Several members of the Ziptie Rally Team have some 4WD vehicles, with varying levels of experience, and eager to try it out, so we gathered a group of 5 vehicles and went up. I left straight from work Friday afternoon, and drove up north and stayed at a friend's house. And we all left early Saturday morning to head over to the park. Our group: 13418373_10100460104149457_7171720721831413890_o by Numbchux, on Flickr I was in the Outback (obviously), with by far the most experience up there. The guy with the WJ Grand Cherokee has been there a few times. The other 3 drivers were completely new. Jeep had by far the most suspension travel, but open diffs. FJ Cruiser has rear locker, and Atrac traction control. Forester has a lot of ground clearance, and good tires, but is a manual transmission, so he had a serious gearing disadvantage. Obviously the Outback has a ground clearance disadvantage, but the VTD 4EAT did excellently. And the X5 was cranked up into it's highest ride height, which left a ton of ground clearance, but virtually zero travel, and low profile tires meant the AWD system was working hard, but it still did well. Being that I had the most experience and the least capable vehicle, it made sense for me to lead. So, I did: 13413005_10107744258730360_6110313075677664850_n by Numbchux, on Flickr I dragged the exhaust and the trailer hitch over everything... 13413773_10107744257996830_7770212468363781785_n by Numbchux, on Flickr I now have an exhaust leak, might be a good excuse to get that OBX Stainless, catless, manifold set. Then we drove to the Minneapolis area for a house warming party, picked up a set of 2003 Outback wheels, my cousin's college graduation party, and then home. Car never missed a beat.

This question has been asked dozens, if not hundreds of times. To my knowledge, it was only done once (A brat in england), and as I recall, he regretted doing it... For the rear, the only part that would be bolt-on is the driveshaft-to-differential flange. All the suspension mounts, crossmember, strut mounts, everything would have to be fabricated. It's been done, but it's a huge amount of precision fabrication. You can use some front components with some XT6 parts for a 5-lug swap.

Yep, I put a new key and used crank pulley on, and overtorqued the bolt, and drove it for years. The key should not have any load on it while the engine is turning, it's just there to align things during assembly.

The tape or epoxy won't do squat on brakes, but you can get a pretty good idea of their condition before you leave, and even if it blows, you can keep driving, just cautiously using the ebrake. But the tape will work fairly well on a coolant hose (not perfect, but enough to get you down the road quite a long way), like I said, I've used epoxy to repair rusted steel fuel lines, and a leaking radiator (both repairs held for years of abuse at my buddy's cabin ). It's certainly not a bad idea to bring a few chunks of rubber hose in different diameters for a more permanent repair, but if everything is in good shape before you leave, there's a pretty slim chance of failure. If you've got room, and a donor car (you're not buying a spare part), I would add a fuel pump to my list.