Numbchux

Can't find Dex III? It is THE most common, and cheapest, type of ATF available. +4 might be OK, but just use the right stuff.

FYI. The 2010+ Legacy rear suspension is identical to the 2009+ Impreza/Forester stuff. However, on that newer mulitilink setup, the whole rear subframe is shaped differently to lower the control arm pivot points, not just spacers like the older models. And because they use 4 control arms on each side in the rear, they do not function well outside of their designed travel range. So while the appropriate Outback or Forester stuff would bolt right in, you'd still need blocks or the whole rear crossmember to keep the geometry in spec. Good news, is the blocks are crazy easy to install, I helped a good friend of mind put an ADF lift in his 2013 Forester this spring. Well, sort of. It depends on the style of lift. For example, the lift we put in my friend's previously-mentioned Forester had 2" blocks on the front struts, 2" for the rear crossmember, and 2 3/8" for the rear shocks. So the engine/steering rack/transmission etc. was all lifted 2". And the rear diff 3/8" (which isn't much, but it's not nothing). On all the modified-macpherson rear cars ('90-'99 Legacy chassis, '93-'08 Impreza chassis), you can just use longer struts and/or strut spacers to gain clearance all the way around. The control arms and such run at a steeper angle, but there is some tolerance there. Of course, your point is correct, the lift makes larger tires possible, which is where you gain your true advantage (both in height, and tire availability). All that said, it's certainly possible. As I mentioned, the suspension is virtually identical to 2010+ Outback and 2009+ Forester, and there are several companies that make kits for those chassis. I don't think I've ever seen a Legacy lifted, so it may not be well-documented on exactly what combination of subframe spacers and struts/spacers would work best, but some creativity and measurements should make that all doable.

Correction, VDCs do NOT have an LSD. LLBeans, and cold weather package 4-cylinders do, but the VDC cars rely on the extra traction/stability control system. But, either way, modern LSDs are sealed units, and do not effect what fluid to use. Off the top of my head, I thought it was just over 1 qt of fluid for the rear, but I'm not sure. We use 75w90 syn blend at the dealership where I work. But the rear diffs are not terribly picky, really any GL-5 gear oil is fine.

The spec is all 4 tires should be within 3/32 of wear. If this were an older car, I would agree with you, and I've done some of this. Also, a '14 Forester would be a CVT or 6MT, no FWD fuse on those. But on a 2 (maybe 3) year old car, hell no. Tire rack can shave a brand-new tire that matches the other 3. But you'd have $200+ into one tire, so you can have 4 mediocre tires (I assume you've got the OE tires, which are generally not very good) that are pretty much worn out. 6/32 is not "reasonable tread" IMO. Brand-new is typically about 11-12/32, and 4/32 is dangerous. Replace all 4. They're not trying to rip you off, it's by far the best option.

The transmission control unit changes shift maps when the cruise control is engaged, this has been the case since Subaru started using the 4EAT (might have been true on the 3AT, even my '92 Celica cruise control was connected to the overdrive solenoid to kick it down). I suspect there's a reason for this, as they've been doing it forever, but I don't like it. I cut that wire on our '04 Outback VDC so it doesn't dump the thing into 3rd going almost 80mph just because there's a slight incline.

Define "entire drivetrain". Just engine/transmission/diff? or suspension and axles, too? With a little swapping of brackets and studs, the rear diff will physically bolt into the car, but you'll have problems with axles (many options there). And with a little grinding, the EJ engine mounts will work in the EA81 crossmember. Nothing else will bolt up. Nothing. Yep, the 4EAT is considerably bigger than any 5MT or 3AT, similar in size to an STi 6MT (so fitment challenges are similar). It is true that the '87.5 EA82 tunnels changed, which gives room for the 4EAT. This also means the EA82 transmission crossmembers are different, as the mounting locations got further apart. Doing a lift would probably make it work... I'm not aware of anyone putting a 4EAT into an EA81. You might find an STi 6MT in one, though. Although I can't think of any examples of that. All 4EATs are 25 spline outputs to the front CVs, and all EA81s are 23 spline. Good news, is the MT have the exact same inner spline count, diameter, and length, only difference is the groove for the circlip or snapring. So it's possible to get a pair of 23-spline EA82 5MT axle stubs, and machine a new groove. Here's the before, 4EAT on the left, EA82 5MT on the right: And after, one on the right has been machined for the larger circlip on the 4EAT (This was done to use a Carbonetic clutch-type front LSD in a 5MT, which uses the 4EAT-style stubs). EA81 transmission mounts are completely different than EJ, so any of those options require a custom crossmember. But it is similar to an EJ 5MT, so there is documentation of it. Swapping the suspension and such will be MUCH more difficult. A lot of cutting, welding, measuring. Dozens of people have talked about doing it, and I think only one ever actually finished it (A brat in the UK).

Yep, sorry, I should have mentioned that would be for the 3.0 H6. Also available in the Outback VDC but the traction/stability control system on those models make it harder to swap, the LLBean editions generally are better Swap donors. It's also possible to swap a dual range transmission from a GL into your Legacy, which would give you much better offroad gearing, and FWD setting for better highway mileage.

Twin turbo engines are EJ20H, EJ20R, EJ206 and EJ208. Second turbo will not clear the brake booster and steering shaft on a LHD car without CONSIDERABLE modification (not impossible, but very difficult. I've seen dozens of builds were people think they can do it, and end up converting to single turbo or RHD). Yes, in stock configuration it's a little less prone to turbo lag, but not without it. An automatic transmission would help smooth out the lag, but it's still a bandaid. You could probably find a wrecked '01-'04 Outback LLBean for what it would cost to buy an EJ20H/R and convert to single turbo. The wiring will all already be configured for LHD (a big job either way...). You'd have almost as much horsepower, more torque, and much better throttle response. Or, build a high-compression 4-cylinder. Several ways to do it, stroker 2.2, just drop some pistons into a 25D or 251, maybe some Delta cams. Look into some Rally America Open Light (non-turbo AWD) builds, I've seen some cars with some serious stump pulling torque.

EJ20k is a '96-'98 STi engine. Need more information. What transmission do you plan to use? What type of offroading do you want to do? What other modifications have you done/do you plan to do? Typically turbos are not great for offroading, turbo lag does not play well with technical trails. The lack of good gearing options for Subarus means that with oversized tires you spend a lot of time at low rpm.

How so? I admit I'm going from memory, and it's been a long time since we lifted my brat. But when we unbolted those 3 bolts to reclock the torsion bar, there was some wiggle room there, and with some creative work with a jack, we were able to pivot that connection a bit towards negative camber, as described in the EA82 FSM. Now, we didn't do any comparison or measurement, so I don't know how effective it was. I do distinctly remember thinking that it looked exactly like the EA82 setup, except the outer part of the arm pivoted around the torsion bar instead of on it's own bushing. my Frankenwagon: And my Brat: I consider those to be very similar design, and should adjust similarly. With that, and the EA82 procedure in mind, I don't think it would be hard to slot the holes in the outer bracket to allow more adjustment.

What's this going into (I usually don't respond if I have to ask this)? A piston set from Subaru (one part number) is piston, wrist pin, and 2 pin clips. It is only enough for one cylinder, and does not include rings. If it were me, the decision would be made by the engine management system. If it's meant for turbo (although the stock EJ205 ECU is very tuneable), I don't think the hassle of tuning + cost of replacing pistons would be worth it. If your management is meant for N/A, then you won't be able to really take advantage of the turbo anyway.... We've put a few EJ201s in place of EJ251s here, and the power loss is not really noticeable.

There are no left hand threads on the caliper brackets. If you had hardware come out by spinning it clockwise, you've got something broken or stripped. Then you either have something else wrong, or you're using terrible parts.

I've used Seafoam trans-tune as a cleaner, drive for a bit, then 2 drain-and-fills (with some miles in between) and a new filter with the second can help quite a bit.

Yep, procedure is the same for an EA81. It's not much of a change, but it's there, and with that in mind, I think it would be possible to slot those holes and get more without too much difficulty.

The Subaru hitch fits Model Year '96-'99 Legacy Outback models, I grabbed an aftermarket (Reese, maybe?) one from a '98 in a junkyard a few years ago, and it bolted right up to a '96. Unless your '97 is an Outback Sport, it should work.

Splitting hairs here...lots of 4-cyl Subarus have an oil cooler, but a '12 Forester is not one of them. The PCV valve itself does not have coolant running through it, but there's more to the PCV system than just the valve. Bottom line. There DEFINITELY is not enough information here to condemn anybody, even if that's right off the repair order, and written by the tech, a few sentences does not give the whole picture. If the car is under warranty, I don't see any reason not to have them replace whatever connector they're referring to. It might not fix the problem, but this might be an odd one that will require a little experimentation to nail down, and waiting won't help.

There's one bolt that holds both lines to the firewall, remove that bolt, and the valve is behind there (IIRC held in with a 4mm allen bolt or 2), kind of recessed back into the firewall.

Check the transmission mount. It's not uncommon for the center stud to get bent (usually from a bad ujoint) and make some funny noises when things get loaded up. But yea, get your driveshaft out, and move those joints around to check for binding or play.

Most cases do not require grinding, IIRC only EA81 cases have the extra castings that do not clear the LSD carrier. Only an r160 will fit in that case. But ANY r160 (used in almost every 4WD Subaru, still to this day) will physically fit in the case. But that clutch-type now-virtually-unobtaneum is the only one with bolt-in axle stubs just like factory, anything else will require a little workaround with CV axles (some are easier than others, I don't know off the top of my head, but there are examples out there) Other diffs have been done, but require modification. The STi r180 is not much different externally than an r160 and has been done at least a couple times in EA Subarus. Adam NDJ was working towards an r200, but I don't think anything ever happened, and there was a lot of fabrication (it already has a nissan transfer case and ER27 under a brat...). I've also seen a myriad of different IRS diffs in EJ Subarus....

Excellent write-up. I have to disagree with this sentence, though. A solder joint is completely inflexible, and requires a pretty extreme heat cycle to the copper wire. These 2 factors can cause fatigue over time and I have seen them break (yes, even under good heat shrink). It's admittedly rare, and still better than a standard crimp connection or the others, but still enough of a concern that I don't use it. I ONLY use Molex PermaSeal connectors, I buy them in bulk through Waytek Wire (they are available as spade and ring terminals, too): https://www.waytekwire.com/item/30980/Molex-19164-0013-Perma-Seal-Butt-Connector-/ https://www.waytekwire.com/item/31980/Molex-19164-0044-Perma-Seal-Butt-Connector-/ https://www.waytekwire.com/item/32980/Molex-19164-0056-Perma-Seal-Butt-Connector-/ Obviously the process of heat shrink applies much less heat to the copper wire, and the semi-flexible nature of the heat shrink sleeve helps disperse the bending/vibration force through a slightly larger piece of the wire. Also, you didn't address the other "option".....wire nuts. Wire nuts work for household wiring because households do not vibrate constantly, also because there is no vibration/movement, household wiring is solid-core, not multi stranded like automotive wire. These 2 differences mean wire nuts will fall off, and then you have a completely un-insulated connection.

One more easy thing to check, although it sounds unlikely. Remove the upper radiator support brackets, and tilt the radiator back to look for debris in the radiator. I've seen a few (one just last week that was really bad) where the radiator is packed solid, but the evaporator looks clean as can be. I don't understand how that much debris could get through/around the evaporator and end up in the radiator, but it happens. It still doesn't really explain the bubbles, but it might be worth a try.

This is fine, but you keep talking about it like it's going to be cheaper than just fixing the water pump. You cannot have both. You can have an interesting and educational experience, OR you can have cheap. Remember the old adage, "Cheap, fast, reliable. Pick two." Firstly, obviously you did not click on the link I dug up for you, that kit is $203.78, plus a $4.20 OE water pump gasket. So cost to repair your car is actually about $250 (by the time it's done, you'll need coolant, and maybe some other little things), not $350. I doubt (it's possible...but....yea) you'll get any money for almost anything off that old motor. It's highest value is probably in scrap. I'll say again, I don't believe a phase 2 TCU will talk to a phase 1 transmission. So add a transmission to your list. This may also require a rear diff/axles. You'll need an entire bulkhead harness (the stuff behind the dash/HVAC ductwork), not just the engine harness. Radiator and fans are different for an EZ30 car. It's possible to make what you have work, but it certainly won't be free and probably won't be adequate. It would probably take me 15-20 hours to do that wiring job, and I've probably done more than 20 similar wiring projects. My first one (which was MUCH simpler) took me 3 months to get running, and I was dealing with issues for at least a year after that. So maybe your labor is free, but be prepared for a lot of down time and frustration. $150 for a no-problems EZ30D is pretty much too-good-to-be-true. It's probably not as bad as your other one, but I highly doubt it's not going to have issues. You haven't talked at all about exhaust. EZ30 exhaust is very different. No matter what you do, you'll have money into it. Your stock tachometer won't work anymore. $50ish for a tach signal divider. Not mentioning the little things. You'll probably have $100 in miscellaneous hoses. You'd regret not changing the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs while you've got the engine out (both wear items, and virtually impossible to do in the car in an older chassis), so there's another $100ish. Even little things like electrical connectors add up surprisingly fast. Also not mentioning the slippery slope of supporting modifications. Brakes, tires, suspension. I'll say again, the cheapest way to get everything you need is to buy a donor car. If you get lucky, and sell a lot of usable parts that you don't need, you might be into it for less than a thousand once the dust is all settled.

It bolts to the back side of the hub on those, not on the CV. 27550A in this diagram

$9? MSRP is $4.88...

It's doable, and I could write a fairly lengthy post with information how, but I read this You're WAY in over your head. Also, with the destruction I'm seeing in that last picture, that engine is not worth fixing. I don't believe a phase 2 TCU will talk to a phase 1 transmission. cheapest way to get everything you still need is to buy a donor car (rusted out or crashed). You're probably looking at a couple thousand dollars (if you're lucky, and can sell a lot of the unused parts from the donor car), and several months of down time to finish the project you're proposing. If it is, indeed, a water pump (not common), replace it. Use an OE gasket. And keep driving it. https://www.amazon.com/Gates-TCKWP254-Engine-Timing-Water/dp/B003TUA5W6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469625826&sr=8-1&keywords=TCKWP254 and gasket #21114aa051 (MSRP on that is $4.20, so depending on your local dealer, it'll probably be close to that, or there are online sources, but shipping cost will probably be more than dealer markup).