Numbchux

The transmission will not lubricate itself without the engine running, so go very slow. The faster you go, the more friction/heat/damage... Leave the shaft connected, that will keep the output shafts spinning at the same speed, anyway. Pulling the shaft and towing on a dolly would be far better.

It's this style radio: But AFAIK, almost all the radios of that vintage had the same input port for an accessory CD player that would fit in a second DIN slot below it. The 13-pin port I'm tapping into is for that CD player (it sounds like you may have that CD player, which will complicate things, either delete your CD player, or a creative person could wire it so that the switch to activate the input would also switch sources). That CD player connects those 2 wires when you put a CD in it, and disconnects when you take the CD out, which is how the radio knows to change input sources. The switch mimics that. I believe those adapter cables are designed for radios that have a "changer" button on the front, but you can certainly try it. The audio jack I bought came with a little "instruction" sheet that said which tab went to what. L, R and ground all go straight to the audio jack. There's a good chance that the adapter cable you bought will not have pins or wires for the activation switch, so if it doesn't work out of the box, it probably won't be much help. A quick google search for "audio jack pin" turned up this: It may also be referred to as ring, sleeve, and tip (Ground, Right, and Left, respectively).

Negative. I'll use an example of a 2WD car, as that only has one differential. If you're stuck in the mud and only have one wheel spinning, that's an open diff. An LSD would probably give you 2 spinning (unless one wheel has quite a bit of traction and the other doesn't). A locker would definitely give you 2 spinning.

VDC cars do NOT have an LSD. Other than that, '00-'01 Outbacks with cold weather package has the LSD, Cold weather package became standard '02-'04.

The transmission will only fit in the tunnel with considerable modification, or a lift. Front diff is not any wider, so that part will not effect axle length. If you are running complete EA82 front suspension (control arms, crossmember, knuckles, struts, etc.) for complete EA82 track width, you can run EA82t front axles. They will have the 25-spline inners and the matched width and outer spline for the EA82 stuff. If you have EA81 track width, you will need custom/hybrid parts to make it work (see the above-linked thread for info on those options). I think silverhelme is correct about driveshaft length. An EA82 4EAT one might work for you, just have to fab a mount for the carrier bearing. Otherwise the slip-yoke splines on your EA81 shaft are the same, you can just have the one-piece one modified for length. Trans crossmember/mount is different. Depending on the donor vehicle, you may need to swap the rear diff, which might create challenges with rear axles. Several ways around it, though. My biggest concern is wiring. Depending exactly how the harness was modified/installed, you may want to pull the harness back out and verify that stuff is all connected correctly. There are a lot of small changes between TCU and 4EAT, so you'll have some homework to make sure they will talk to each other.

I'm not challenging you, just curious. I work in parts, so I have some information, but certainly not everything. I was mostly thrown off because this thread was originally started about the 2016 Legacy/Outback steering column recall, which SOA made a huge deal about having us track these cars down, telling the customer to stop driving IMMEDIATELY and get them inspected. Rental cars were issued immediately, a few techs spent a whole day driving out to a customer's home to inspect their car, and many cars were towed in. All totally understandable in that they were concerned about the steering column failing....while a passenger airbag is certainly a concern, with 4 seats (counting the rear center) in the car safe to use, it's not nearly as urgent as a steering column issue. And no, Subaru has no driver's side airbag recalls right now. Other manufacturers, mostly Honda IIRC, do.

Which recall is this? I don't think we currently have any open recalls like that. The only one that we can't get parts for is the Takata airbag fiasco, which is passenger side only. It's still safe to drive the car, just don't let anyone sit in the passenger seat. Yes, they made a big deal of the steering column issue, but relatively low volume, and with cars that are less than a year old, it was easy to get in touch with the owners. I think we had them all done in a few weeks once we got parts. Also, AFAIK they never actually had one fail. This was entirely preventative.

I'm paying about $6.50 a month, plus a small registration fee. The $166.80 gets me 2 years. My biggest concern about migrating it to anything else, is the amount of direct links (primarily here) to files on the site which would then be dead. I think all of that stuff is readily available elsewhere (certainly EA2EJ and all the FSMs) and I could care less about the graphical "homepage" and such, as that stuff has been irrelevant for probably 5 years or more.

That might be normal. These cars have a bit of positive camber in stock form, and larger tires can make *look* a lot worse. But I'll let Scott chime in as to whether those blocks are on the correct side. And yes, that's 6". The drivetrain is not dropped as far as the suspension. So the 4" diff bracket is perfect for 6" strut spacers.

Non-interference. No head damage. I've probably had a dozen or more EA82 timing belts break on me. Even drove one home with the passenger side belt broken. When I was delivering my blue lifted wagon to sell it, I had the driver's belt break, and I installed a new one on the side of the road in about 10 minutes (running without belt covers). If the teeth are stripped off the belt, it's probably because the cogged idler seized. I've had that happen.

Wow, I wouldn't have guessed that. Good work tracking it down, though!

It looks like my next bill will be $166.80. That does last for 2 years, though. Also, apparently that is the cheapest plan they offer. I currently do not have internet at home in an effort to save money. So I'm not going to be updating the visual site in the near future, it was a pain when I could do it at home....

FYI, that's the heater supply pipe under the intake manifold

14165AA021 MSRP is $53.82, it's in stock in every Subaru warehouse in the country, which means that any dealership should be able to have it in a couple days. FYI, the one that goes back past the exhaust has nothing to do with the oil cooler, it's the return line from the heater core.

www.Numbchuxconversions.com But most of the information is in here. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/ I guess it's hard to judge, as I have a lot of direct download links posted throughout the site, which would be very easy not to notice what the source was. But if you guys notice a link to something on my site that's maybe useful, maybe we can re-post as an attachment or something. My current renewal date is December 5th. I'm looking to see if BlueHost will let me downgrade to their super basic plan, which would cut the price down a bit (I can Upgrade instantly online, but the cheaper plans are listed as "unavailable"), but no guarantees.

It's approaching time to renew my website hosting, and I'm tempted to let it go. I've left it up for reference, and for many of the files I've hosted there, but most of it's original purpose is defunct. As much as I don't want to be the cause of dead links, that hosting is not cheap. I think the EA2EJ file is posted in many places on the internet by now. Most of the FSMs and XT parts catalogs are as well, I think.

I'm just going off the FSM and memory, which is very vague. But it looks like it's below the dash on the passenger side. From there you'll have to start looking yourself. It's a normal Subaru relay, so it has 4 wires, 2 are fairly thin gauge, and are the control side, and 2 are much thicker, and have the load of the fuel pump going to them. Unplug the relay and use a short piece of wire to connect those 2 heavier wires together.

FYI, there are 2 drain plugs Disconnect the fuel line from the filter (yes, it has one, 04 was the last year in the Impreza), connect a good length piece of hose (3/8" IIRC), then jumper the fuel pump relay (either behind the passenger kick panel, or under the carpet near the ECU, green connector). That will keep the pump on, as long as you need it to. Also, I bet your fuel leak is a rusted filler neck.

I'd start by unplugging the wiring that goes through the lift gate. Pop the rear edge of the headliner loose and you should be able to get to the connector relatively easily. The section that has to flex every time the gate opens or closes is somewhat-common to fatigue, break, and short out. If unplugging that doesn't fix your problem, start checking the bulb sockets for corrosion.

There are a few sources out there, most just basically one-man operations selling things. I've worked with Scott, and he makes a great product. Life has delayed it a bit, but our Subaru will be getting an SJR lift before long.

Yea, cabin air filter could have been added as an accessory. The accessory came with a sticker to put in the driver's door opening (typically near the VIN sticker, sometimes near the dash), that says it is equipped. But only way to tell for sure, is to check.

Start by cleaning the glass. Dirty glass will be much more likely to collect condensation. RainX makes an anti-fog product that works very well, that might be worth a try. Heater cores almost always fail more catastrophically than that, leaving a puddle on the floor, reeking of antifreeze. I suppose it's not impossible to have a tiny pinhole that's just introducing some moisture into the system.

It's not exactly cheap, but a new OEM one (updated part number that was used on that '02-'04 cars) has an MSRP of $399.71, and you can get them for less through some online retailers. Part number is 20152AE00B. I think I'd go that route before spending $200 on a used one....

FYI, I work in the parts department at a Subaru-only dealer. A lot of these were being replaced under warranty for many years. But because of a class-action lawsuit early last year, all effected cars are covered right now (one year from the notification date, I believe, which was last March or so), regardless of mileage. And up to 100k miles regardless of time (although from what I understand, salvage-titled cars are not). There are very rarely any cost to the customer, the only even remotely common, or large, expense sometimes added on is a clutch kit (if applicable, obviously), as it requires zero extra labor to put a new one in. But that is always done with the customers permission up front. I couldn't tell you what the percentage is, because there are a lot of these cars on the road up here, but we are also replacing a lot of short blocks. I can also tell you, there seems to be little or no pattern to which cars are effected. No production date, or anything like that, they just have to be tested. My mom's 2012 Impreza uses almost zero oil, and so does my friend's 2013 Forester. A 2010 would have the EJ25 engine, which had head gasket issues, being the second-to-last year of that engine, they are much better than the early ones, but still something to watch for. And definitely not covered under warranty. All that said, if everything else was the same (trim, transmission, condition, price, etc.), I would definitely take the 2011 over the 2010. I do think the FB engines are better than the EJs. It kind of sucks that they require synthetic oil, as that double or triples the cost of an oil change.

Can't find Dex III? It is THE most common, and cheapest, type of ATF available. +4 might be OK, but just use the right stuff.