Numbchux

14165AA021 MSRP is $53.82, it's in stock in every Subaru warehouse in the country, which means that any dealership should be able to have it in a couple days. FYI, the one that goes back past the exhaust has nothing to do with the oil cooler, it's the return line from the heater core.

www.Numbchuxconversions.com But most of the information is in here. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/ I guess it's hard to judge, as I have a lot of direct download links posted throughout the site, which would be very easy not to notice what the source was. But if you guys notice a link to something on my site that's maybe useful, maybe we can re-post as an attachment or something. My current renewal date is December 5th. I'm looking to see if BlueHost will let me downgrade to their super basic plan, which would cut the price down a bit (I can Upgrade instantly online, but the cheaper plans are listed as "unavailable"), but no guarantees.

It's approaching time to renew my website hosting, and I'm tempted to let it go. I've left it up for reference, and for many of the files I've hosted there, but most of it's original purpose is defunct. As much as I don't want to be the cause of dead links, that hosting is not cheap. I think the EA2EJ file is posted in many places on the internet by now. Most of the FSMs and XT parts catalogs are as well, I think.

I'm just going off the FSM and memory, which is very vague. But it looks like it's below the dash on the passenger side. From there you'll have to start looking yourself. It's a normal Subaru relay, so it has 4 wires, 2 are fairly thin gauge, and are the control side, and 2 are much thicker, and have the load of the fuel pump going to them. Unplug the relay and use a short piece of wire to connect those 2 heavier wires together.

FYI, there are 2 drain plugs Disconnect the fuel line from the filter (yes, it has one, 04 was the last year in the Impreza), connect a good length piece of hose (3/8" IIRC), then jumper the fuel pump relay (either behind the passenger kick panel, or under the carpet near the ECU, green connector). That will keep the pump on, as long as you need it to. Also, I bet your fuel leak is a rusted filler neck.

I'd start by unplugging the wiring that goes through the lift gate. Pop the rear edge of the headliner loose and you should be able to get to the connector relatively easily. The section that has to flex every time the gate opens or closes is somewhat-common to fatigue, break, and short out. If unplugging that doesn't fix your problem, start checking the bulb sockets for corrosion.

There are a few sources out there, most just basically one-man operations selling things. I've worked with Scott, and he makes a great product. Life has delayed it a bit, but our Subaru will be getting an SJR lift before long.

Yea, cabin air filter could have been added as an accessory. The accessory came with a sticker to put in the driver's door opening (typically near the VIN sticker, sometimes near the dash), that says it is equipped. But only way to tell for sure, is to check.

Start by cleaning the glass. Dirty glass will be much more likely to collect condensation. RainX makes an anti-fog product that works very well, that might be worth a try. Heater cores almost always fail more catastrophically than that, leaving a puddle on the floor, reeking of antifreeze. I suppose it's not impossible to have a tiny pinhole that's just introducing some moisture into the system.

It's not exactly cheap, but a new OEM one (updated part number that was used on that '02-'04 cars) has an MSRP of $399.71, and you can get them for less through some online retailers. Part number is 20152AE00B. I think I'd go that route before spending $200 on a used one....

FYI, I work in the parts department at a Subaru-only dealer. A lot of these were being replaced under warranty for many years. But because of a class-action lawsuit early last year, all effected cars are covered right now (one year from the notification date, I believe, which was last March or so), regardless of mileage. And up to 100k miles regardless of time (although from what I understand, salvage-titled cars are not). There are very rarely any cost to the customer, the only even remotely common, or large, expense sometimes added on is a clutch kit (if applicable, obviously), as it requires zero extra labor to put a new one in. But that is always done with the customers permission up front. I couldn't tell you what the percentage is, because there are a lot of these cars on the road up here, but we are also replacing a lot of short blocks. I can also tell you, there seems to be little or no pattern to which cars are effected. No production date, or anything like that, they just have to be tested. My mom's 2012 Impreza uses almost zero oil, and so does my friend's 2013 Forester. A 2010 would have the EJ25 engine, which had head gasket issues, being the second-to-last year of that engine, they are much better than the early ones, but still something to watch for. And definitely not covered under warranty. All that said, if everything else was the same (trim, transmission, condition, price, etc.), I would definitely take the 2011 over the 2010. I do think the FB engines are better than the EJs. It kind of sucks that they require synthetic oil, as that double or triples the cost of an oil change.

Can't find Dex III? It is THE most common, and cheapest, type of ATF available. +4 might be OK, but just use the right stuff.

FYI. The 2010+ Legacy rear suspension is identical to the 2009+ Impreza/Forester stuff. However, on that newer mulitilink setup, the whole rear subframe is shaped differently to lower the control arm pivot points, not just spacers like the older models. And because they use 4 control arms on each side in the rear, they do not function well outside of their designed travel range. So while the appropriate Outback or Forester stuff would bolt right in, you'd still need blocks or the whole rear crossmember to keep the geometry in spec. Good news, is the blocks are crazy easy to install, I helped a good friend of mind put an ADF lift in his 2013 Forester this spring. Well, sort of. It depends on the style of lift. For example, the lift we put in my friend's previously-mentioned Forester had 2" blocks on the front struts, 2" for the rear crossmember, and 2 3/8" for the rear shocks. So the engine/steering rack/transmission etc. was all lifted 2". And the rear diff 3/8" (which isn't much, but it's not nothing). On all the modified-macpherson rear cars ('90-'99 Legacy chassis, '93-'08 Impreza chassis), you can just use longer struts and/or strut spacers to gain clearance all the way around. The control arms and such run at a steeper angle, but there is some tolerance there. Of course, your point is correct, the lift makes larger tires possible, which is where you gain your true advantage (both in height, and tire availability). All that said, it's certainly possible. As I mentioned, the suspension is virtually identical to 2010+ Outback and 2009+ Forester, and there are several companies that make kits for those chassis. I don't think I've ever seen a Legacy lifted, so it may not be well-documented on exactly what combination of subframe spacers and struts/spacers would work best, but some creativity and measurements should make that all doable.

Correction, VDCs do NOT have an LSD. LLBeans, and cold weather package 4-cylinders do, but the VDC cars rely on the extra traction/stability control system. But, either way, modern LSDs are sealed units, and do not effect what fluid to use. Off the top of my head, I thought it was just over 1 qt of fluid for the rear, but I'm not sure. We use 75w90 syn blend at the dealership where I work. But the rear diffs are not terribly picky, really any GL-5 gear oil is fine.

The spec is all 4 tires should be within 3/32 of wear. If this were an older car, I would agree with you, and I've done some of this. Also, a '14 Forester would be a CVT or 6MT, no FWD fuse on those. But on a 2 (maybe 3) year old car, hell no. Tire rack can shave a brand-new tire that matches the other 3. But you'd have $200+ into one tire, so you can have 4 mediocre tires (I assume you've got the OE tires, which are generally not very good) that are pretty much worn out. 6/32 is not "reasonable tread" IMO. Brand-new is typically about 11-12/32, and 4/32 is dangerous. Replace all 4. They're not trying to rip you off, it's by far the best option.

The transmission control unit changes shift maps when the cruise control is engaged, this has been the case since Subaru started using the 4EAT (might have been true on the 3AT, even my '92 Celica cruise control was connected to the overdrive solenoid to kick it down). I suspect there's a reason for this, as they've been doing it forever, but I don't like it. I cut that wire on our '04 Outback VDC so it doesn't dump the thing into 3rd going almost 80mph just because there's a slight incline.

Define "entire drivetrain". Just engine/transmission/diff? or suspension and axles, too? With a little swapping of brackets and studs, the rear diff will physically bolt into the car, but you'll have problems with axles (many options there). And with a little grinding, the EJ engine mounts will work in the EA81 crossmember. Nothing else will bolt up. Nothing. Yep, the 4EAT is considerably bigger than any 5MT or 3AT, similar in size to an STi 6MT (so fitment challenges are similar). It is true that the '87.5 EA82 tunnels changed, which gives room for the 4EAT. This also means the EA82 transmission crossmembers are different, as the mounting locations got further apart. Doing a lift would probably make it work... I'm not aware of anyone putting a 4EAT into an EA81. You might find an STi 6MT in one, though. Although I can't think of any examples of that. All 4EATs are 25 spline outputs to the front CVs, and all EA81s are 23 spline. Good news, is the MT have the exact same inner spline count, diameter, and length, only difference is the groove for the circlip or snapring. So it's possible to get a pair of 23-spline EA82 5MT axle stubs, and machine a new groove. Here's the before, 4EAT on the left, EA82 5MT on the right: And after, one on the right has been machined for the larger circlip on the 4EAT (This was done to use a Carbonetic clutch-type front LSD in a 5MT, which uses the 4EAT-style stubs). EA81 transmission mounts are completely different than EJ, so any of those options require a custom crossmember. But it is similar to an EJ 5MT, so there is documentation of it. Swapping the suspension and such will be MUCH more difficult. A lot of cutting, welding, measuring. Dozens of people have talked about doing it, and I think only one ever actually finished it (A brat in the UK).

Yep, sorry, I should have mentioned that would be for the 3.0 H6. Also available in the Outback VDC but the traction/stability control system on those models make it harder to swap, the LLBean editions generally are better Swap donors. It's also possible to swap a dual range transmission from a GL into your Legacy, which would give you much better offroad gearing, and FWD setting for better highway mileage.

Twin turbo engines are EJ20H, EJ20R, EJ206 and EJ208. Second turbo will not clear the brake booster and steering shaft on a LHD car without CONSIDERABLE modification (not impossible, but very difficult. I've seen dozens of builds were people think they can do it, and end up converting to single turbo or RHD). Yes, in stock configuration it's a little less prone to turbo lag, but not without it. An automatic transmission would help smooth out the lag, but it's still a bandaid. You could probably find a wrecked '01-'04 Outback LLBean for what it would cost to buy an EJ20H/R and convert to single turbo. The wiring will all already be configured for LHD (a big job either way...). You'd have almost as much horsepower, more torque, and much better throttle response. Or, build a high-compression 4-cylinder. Several ways to do it, stroker 2.2, just drop some pistons into a 25D or 251, maybe some Delta cams. Look into some Rally America Open Light (non-turbo AWD) builds, I've seen some cars with some serious stump pulling torque.

EJ20k is a '96-'98 STi engine. Need more information. What transmission do you plan to use? What type of offroading do you want to do? What other modifications have you done/do you plan to do? Typically turbos are not great for offroading, turbo lag does not play well with technical trails. The lack of good gearing options for Subarus means that with oversized tires you spend a lot of time at low rpm.

How so? I admit I'm going from memory, and it's been a long time since we lifted my brat. But when we unbolted those 3 bolts to reclock the torsion bar, there was some wiggle room there, and with some creative work with a jack, we were able to pivot that connection a bit towards negative camber, as described in the EA82 FSM. Now, we didn't do any comparison or measurement, so I don't know how effective it was. I do distinctly remember thinking that it looked exactly like the EA82 setup, except the outer part of the arm pivoted around the torsion bar instead of on it's own bushing. my Frankenwagon: And my Brat: I consider those to be very similar design, and should adjust similarly. With that, and the EA82 procedure in mind, I don't think it would be hard to slot the holes in the outer bracket to allow more adjustment.

What's this going into (I usually don't respond if I have to ask this)? A piston set from Subaru (one part number) is piston, wrist pin, and 2 pin clips. It is only enough for one cylinder, and does not include rings. If it were me, the decision would be made by the engine management system. If it's meant for turbo (although the stock EJ205 ECU is very tuneable), I don't think the hassle of tuning + cost of replacing pistons would be worth it. If your management is meant for N/A, then you won't be able to really take advantage of the turbo anyway.... We've put a few EJ201s in place of EJ251s here, and the power loss is not really noticeable.

There are no left hand threads on the caliper brackets. If you had hardware come out by spinning it clockwise, you've got something broken or stripped. Then you either have something else wrong, or you're using terrible parts.

I've used Seafoam trans-tune as a cleaner, drive for a bit, then 2 drain-and-fills (with some miles in between) and a new filter with the second can help quite a bit.

Yep, procedure is the same for an EA81. It's not much of a change, but it's there, and with that in mind, I think it would be possible to slot those holes and get more without too much difficulty.