Numbchux

You can't. r160s are pretty much all the same in case/gear dimensions. But, there are numerous different spline designs for the axles. You will need to use the EA82-style bolt in stubs. And then use axles that have 23 female spline ends on them. First-gen legacies have the correct spines. so your easiest route would be to get your hands on a pair of those axles. Or, you may be able to make some hybrid axles. There's probably some combination of 23-spline DOJs (inners from any EA82 rear, or N/A EA82 front) that might work. There were a few different size joints, so one might slide right over the cage/balls of the OB shafts, or there's a chance that the inner race might swap onto the shaft itself.

yea, I believe the subframe and such will all bolt up. Also, in an EJ AWD conversion you have to swap the gas tank. This may be Impreza-specific. And, the driveshaft is longer 5MT v 4EAT. But the Impreza is shorter than the legacy, so you'll need a 5MT impreza shaft (or shorten the rear half of the legacy one). Oh yea, that '93 will have 23 spline front axles. so you'll need to swap axles to use the 25 spline AWD trans.

you still have to route it goofy, as the EA82 pump is in the center of the motor, and the EJ one is off to the side. But the fittings are the same. Best option would be EJ lines, as the fittings are the same on those as well, but they would be fit to the motor, and only have to be re-routed down where you can't see them.

sure they do. I've done it on 2 different cars, with numerous pump/line/rack combinations.

yea, sounds like something's not returning to center after the left turns. I don't think I can narrow down your list at all....in fact I'd add steering rack bushings to it.....

yea, only the 2.5s got the hydraulic clutch. And in '96 the outback MTs were 2.2, and I don't think the LGT started until '97. It MIGHT have the newer casting though, which would mean the extra hole for the other pivot location, and mounts for the slave. But, if it were me. I'd drop the gears and such from the '91 into the '00 case.

yep, that will have the 276mm 2-pot front brakes, which will fit under 15s just fine. I believe that should have a 4.111 axle ratio. Which is the same as the 5MTs in first-gen legacies. The push-style hydraulic transmissions (what that has) are easily converted to cable (move the pivot ball, swap the fork, bolt the cable bracket on). But I'm not sure about the other way around. I don't think the older trans will have the other mount for the pivot ball, or the holes for the slave cylinder. I'm sure something could be done, but it's probably not going to be totally bolt-on. But yes, crossmember, linkage, and driveshaft will all be fine.

The XT6 rack is the same as a regular XT rack with a bit less travel (same ratio as the 4-cyl XT rack, faster than a standard EA82, but full-lock is less of an angle due to the wider tires). So yes, same fluid is fine. It's the pump that's more sensitive to the correct fluid.

You can see in this pic where I started with the hole saw to make a hole for the wiring for the OBD II '86 I did a few years ago. ECU was mounted to the steering column: You can kind of see it all installed here: Re-used the impreza grommet, bought a hole saw to match the size. Worked great!

rear LSD from an '82 Supra. drop-in for the IFS front diff in the 4Runner.

oops....double post

The OEM part is stronger. The '99 Legacy FSM shows 992 lb of clamping force for the 2.2, and 1,213 for the 2.5. But because they're interchangeable, it's likely that aftermarket companies have superseded it with the same part. This could be a good thing. As it probably means that in the interest of only making one part, they're all made to the slightly stronger spec. So if it's the same part number, in a brand you trust, it probably doesn't matter. For example, Beck/Arnley lists the same clutch kit part number for EA82ts and XT6s, even though the '6 was a stronger clutch from the factory.

both cars use a push-style pressure-plate. So yea, either one would work.

I haven't found much either. But, it sounds like any MS system should be able to read the trigger wheels. We'll probably go with the MS3 system so we can run sequential fuel and ignition systems. Then, find someone that will tune it for cheap

What are you pounding on/breaking?

worst case scenario. You pull the alternator off, and find a hole in the top of the block. guy sounds like a jackass. I wouldn't even bother contacting him.

completely depends on how much you do yourself, how much your parts cost, and how many new parts you're putting in with it. It's very common to swap transmissions and stuff at the same time, so obviously that would add cost. With the price of scrap and gas these days, it's becoming harder to find parts cars for cheap. The classifieds here in Duluth has about 8 ads offering to pay $100-150 for a complete scrap car, and they'll pick it up. I got 100 for a car with no suspension on it a couple weeks ago. And people are catching on to the awesome versatility of a subaru with relatively low cost (better gas mileage than an SUV, and very reliable). But yea, parts car is the way to go, especially for your first time. I've done many swaps, and know the parts like the back of my hand, so piecing together a swap doesn't scare me anymore. The point I'm making, is depending on what you have available, and how much you do yourself, this swap could cost anywhere from $0 to $3000ish. When I do it, I figure: $300-500 for the motor/harness/ecu $200 for the adapter plate (SJRlift, 185+shipping) $500ish for timing belt, crank and cam seals, water pump, plugs and wires (ebay pci timing belt kit, smallcar.com, and rockauto) $200 for radiator (usaradiator.com all metal for a '91 loyale) $185 for clutch (Beck/Arnley 619130, used this kit on 3 different cars. love it! from rockauto.com) $30 in some nice waterproof electrical splices and a couple fuse holders $50 in radiator/heater hoses (radiator hoses, off the shelf for a '96-'99 outback, with a chunk of the stock EA82 hose at the radiator end to adapt the different size. And then some generic heater hose) $50 for a universal electric radiator fan Which comes to about $1700. And that's assuming you don't have to buy any tools, you're doing the flywheel mod yourself (dremel high-speed cutting bit! worth the $10 or so), the wiring yourself, and the exhaust yourself. The first time I did the swap, I got the motor for free, did zero maintenence on it, and re-used the clutch/radiator. So my only immediate cost was the adapter plate and some hoses/wires. but I always wished I had done a better job.

Turbone, they actually are available for some of the earlier EJ stuff and SVX don't care about the pnp kit, though. Also, building the kit doesn't bother me. Although I highly doubt it's easier to assemble a MS board than it is to strip a harness. I've searched the internet, and seen some information about running EJs, a lot of speculation about EGs. And a number of people who say they've used it, but with no information. I'm looking for some decent and concrete information about running an EG33.

Regardless of your preference in brand (+1 for something other than fram...) the part number should be the same for those 2. But, '85 is when the EA82s started, so there's a good chance that the part number you're finding for the '85 is for the EA82.

Anyone done it? I know very little about MS, other than it's one of the (if not THE) cheapest standalones.

yep. Had one in my XT6 for some time last winter. From what I've seen, the EJ diff cases have the nub that makes it almost impossible to get the clutch-type carrier in there. A couple minutes with a grinder and it slipped right in. I had a driveline shop take 2" out of the front half of the shaft and balance it. It cost $100 fit perfect. I took that measurement based on the differences in length between the XT6 center diff housing and EJ housing (measured to the end of the output shaft, not just the dust sheild).

Yea, the tire looks better. And then I see all the crap hanging down in front of it, and the function-over-form part of me throws up a bit. You've done a great job of reinforcing/protecting that mount, but it sure didn't take me long to ruin those mounts on my BYB lifted EA82.

The '85 EA82 would probably be carbed, in which case, not much wiring. I don't know much about them though, so I'd have to let someone else chime in.

don't you already have an engine? Seems like a pretty difficult way to get a harness and ECU. Just start watching the classifieds on nasioc, you'll find somebody who wrecked a bugeye before too long.

That's only on pre '87 EA82s. The later ones had a wider trans tunnel (for the 4EAT), which makes the XT6 MT crossmembers a bolt-in