Numbchux

You can see in this pic where I started with the hole saw to make a hole for the wiring for the OBD II '86 I did a few years ago. ECU was mounted to the steering column: You can kind of see it all installed here: Re-used the impreza grommet, bought a hole saw to match the size. Worked great!

rear LSD from an '82 Supra. drop-in for the IFS front diff in the 4Runner.

oops....double post

The OEM part is stronger. The '99 Legacy FSM shows 992 lb of clamping force for the 2.2, and 1,213 for the 2.5. But because they're interchangeable, it's likely that aftermarket companies have superseded it with the same part. This could be a good thing. As it probably means that in the interest of only making one part, they're all made to the slightly stronger spec. So if it's the same part number, in a brand you trust, it probably doesn't matter. For example, Beck/Arnley lists the same clutch kit part number for EA82ts and XT6s, even though the '6 was a stronger clutch from the factory.

both cars use a push-style pressure-plate. So yea, either one would work.

I haven't found much either. But, it sounds like any MS system should be able to read the trigger wheels. We'll probably go with the MS3 system so we can run sequential fuel and ignition systems. Then, find someone that will tune it for cheap

What are you pounding on/breaking?

worst case scenario. You pull the alternator off, and find a hole in the top of the block. guy sounds like a jackass. I wouldn't even bother contacting him.

completely depends on how much you do yourself, how much your parts cost, and how many new parts you're putting in with it. It's very common to swap transmissions and stuff at the same time, so obviously that would add cost. With the price of scrap and gas these days, it's becoming harder to find parts cars for cheap. The classifieds here in Duluth has about 8 ads offering to pay $100-150 for a complete scrap car, and they'll pick it up. I got 100 for a car with no suspension on it a couple weeks ago. And people are catching on to the awesome versatility of a subaru with relatively low cost (better gas mileage than an SUV, and very reliable). But yea, parts car is the way to go, especially for your first time. I've done many swaps, and know the parts like the back of my hand, so piecing together a swap doesn't scare me anymore. The point I'm making, is depending on what you have available, and how much you do yourself, this swap could cost anywhere from $0 to $3000ish. When I do it, I figure: $300-500 for the motor/harness/ecu $200 for the adapter plate (SJRlift, 185+shipping) $500ish for timing belt, crank and cam seals, water pump, plugs and wires (ebay pci timing belt kit, smallcar.com, and rockauto) $200 for radiator (usaradiator.com all metal for a '91 loyale) $185 for clutch (Beck/Arnley 619130, used this kit on 3 different cars. love it! from rockauto.com) $30 in some nice waterproof electrical splices and a couple fuse holders $50 in radiator/heater hoses (radiator hoses, off the shelf for a '96-'99 outback, with a chunk of the stock EA82 hose at the radiator end to adapt the different size. And then some generic heater hose) $50 for a universal electric radiator fan Which comes to about $1700. And that's assuming you don't have to buy any tools, you're doing the flywheel mod yourself (dremel high-speed cutting bit! worth the $10 or so), the wiring yourself, and the exhaust yourself. The first time I did the swap, I got the motor for free, did zero maintenence on it, and re-used the clutch/radiator. So my only immediate cost was the adapter plate and some hoses/wires. but I always wished I had done a better job.

Turbone, they actually are available for some of the earlier EJ stuff and SVX don't care about the pnp kit, though. Also, building the kit doesn't bother me. Although I highly doubt it's easier to assemble a MS board than it is to strip a harness. I've searched the internet, and seen some information about running EJs, a lot of speculation about EGs. And a number of people who say they've used it, but with no information. I'm looking for some decent and concrete information about running an EG33.

Regardless of your preference in brand (+1 for something other than fram...) the part number should be the same for those 2. But, '85 is when the EA82s started, so there's a good chance that the part number you're finding for the '85 is for the EA82.

Anyone done it? I know very little about MS, other than it's one of the (if not THE) cheapest standalones.

yep. Had one in my XT6 for some time last winter. From what I've seen, the EJ diff cases have the nub that makes it almost impossible to get the clutch-type carrier in there. A couple minutes with a grinder and it slipped right in. I had a driveline shop take 2" out of the front half of the shaft and balance it. It cost $100 fit perfect. I took that measurement based on the differences in length between the XT6 center diff housing and EJ housing (measured to the end of the output shaft, not just the dust sheild).

Yea, the tire looks better. And then I see all the crap hanging down in front of it, and the function-over-form part of me throws up a bit. You've done a great job of reinforcing/protecting that mount, but it sure didn't take me long to ruin those mounts on my BYB lifted EA82.

The '85 EA82 would probably be carbed, in which case, not much wiring. I don't know much about them though, so I'd have to let someone else chime in.

don't you already have an engine? Seems like a pretty difficult way to get a harness and ECU. Just start watching the classifieds on nasioc, you'll find somebody who wrecked a bugeye before too long.

That's only on pre '87 EA82s. The later ones had a wider trans tunnel (for the 4EAT), which makes the XT6 MT crossmembers a bolt-in

The ECU will depend on the wiring harness you're using. And you will need the whole bulkhead harness for the swap. If you don't have a bulkhead harness, I would highly recommend getting a harness and ECU out of a USDM WRX. Better wiring diagrams, better support, and Open source tuneability.

More info: http://rally-america.com/news/936/ And a great tribute video RIP, Matt Marker

Tragedy on the stages at Olympus: http://rally-america.com/news/934/

worked great on the 4" setups I've done. Honestly, I don't see the need for anything beyond that unless you're doing a subframe, divorced tcase etc.

The rear wheel being pulled forward like that is because the crossmember was left up against the body (the correct way to do it, IMHO). It looks a little goofy, but because the suspension pivot point is right at the body, it can't get any closer there.

... RX trans has 25 spline, so you won't have an issue there. Just match them to the outer knuckles, and you're set. Legacy = EJ. Yes. going to have to give more info on the trans. They'll probably be pretty similar, but depending on year and motor will have different ratios and clutch types. Work? yes. work well? probably not. As mentioned, the struts are taller in an outback.

technically: G = Impreza C = first gen ('93-'01 for the impreza) sedan 8 = 2.0l turbo But GC or GC8 is commonly used to refer to any first-gen impreza. BUT, any EJ front setup will work with a 5-lug swap. And the EJ stuff is much better. better strut options, MUCH better brake options, the tie-rod tabs on the knuckles are in a slightly different spot, so the tie rods are shorter, which helps prevent bump-steer. But yes, the XT6 stuff will work. It will (assuming it's AWD....) have air-suspension, which won't be useful to you. but the knuckles and brakes will work (and allow you to keep the front ebrake).

Venting to atmosphere won't hurt anything. It just wastes fuel (although....sometimes that's burned off in the form of fireballs out the exhaust between gears). Yea, sounds like the PO did a halfassed return to stock. there are a lot of vacuum/vent lines in the stock config, but they all have their place. It shouldn't look too crazy. A lot of these things are for the emissions system, and will not hurt how the car runs to remove, but it's not for the novice mechanic, you need to know exactly what everything does.