Numbchux

EJ alternators are not all the same, electrically. That said, wiring them in is not that hard. Wiring ANY internally regulated alternator is quite simple. So, it's "just" the case of building a bracket and finding/making a pulley. good luck :-\

not applicable on OBD II systems.

what are your goals? You just looking to slam it? autox? gotta give us some information.

I don't know that anyone's actually done it on an EA81. So all we can do is speculate. I have used both ebay (R1 racing), and ground-control sleeves on my EA82, with both EA82 and EJ struts. And I've worked on a number of EA81s (haven't actually had the front suspension off the brat since I bought it, but I helped design and install the lift....). considering how much bigger the sleeves are than the strut cylinder, I don't think it'll be an issue (and if it's smaller.....a washer would make quick work of it. Bigger? a drill). IF, the diameter of the strut shaft is the same, then yes, it'll work using the ground-control upper spring perches. My ebay coilovers did not come with perches, just centering rings, you had to use the original perches to support the weight. There's very little to them. as long as there's a spring perch, and the cylinder is less than ~2.25" (spring is 2.5" ID, sleeve is relatively thin and fits snug inside the spring) in diameter it'll work. Ground-control is extremely helpful over the phone. As you would find in my old posts, I bought a set from them that was fronts for an impreza, and rears for an NB miata. No argument, just a bit of a chuckle as I explained what I was doing. Same price as a full matched set. with specified spring rates and lengths. That said, there was almost zero difference between the 2 pairs except for the upper spring perch. The miata sleeves had had a small bushing pressed into them, but it was still far too big to actually contact anything (although, I did specify that I would be using KYB AGXs, but never actually stepped up from stockers....).

looks like you got a fork for a cable clutch, not a push-style hydraulic.

The radiator fans are included in the overall wiring diagrams of the FSM. page 143 on my '88 FSM, grid location B-2 (same on the '88 FSM that's available online) Also, the radiator fan system is pretty different between an XT6 and standard EA82 (not sure about EA82-XT....). The radiator thermo switch actually controls the relay in the XT6, whereas the standard EA82s just put it inline with the ground side of the fan (not to mention, EA82s only had one electric fan).

Transmission fluid is quite a bit hotter than coolant. So you really should have an internal cooler in the radiator. Most transmission coolers are designed as AUXILIARY units, not standalone. If an integrated one is not an option, you will need a unit with some pretty large volume, and airflow. Whatever you decide on, be sure to get a trans temp gauge.

Yes it can, pretty easily too. There are a few other indicator lights in there, but nothing terribly crucial.

Wish I lived closer to you....I'd happily come over for an afternoon and wire the car for ya. I'm sure in person it would only take me a few hours. I've done much more complicated harnesses in less. The tach should be as easy as connecting the signal wire. AFAIK, the stock system just gets a signal from the ground side of the coil, so that shouldn't change.

Kinda hard to tell....but this was the first day driving my wagon with the 5-lug swap. I drove it for about a week with 3 studs on each back wheel....

good grief. They're just over a buck ea from rockauto.....

With them all mounted to the body, it's all straight. I can't think of any reason why even blocks at all 3 crossmembers wouldn't work out just fine. what 4" lift are you running? are they 4" blocks all around? Most aren't

I bought a box of them on rock auto a few years ago. Looks like they still carry a selection. the knurl diameter is smaller on the fronts than an EJ stud. But, as a result, I have a bunch sitting on my workbench in good condition (pressed out of the hub, not pounded).

This is absolutely a myth. Superchargers have almost no more restriction on an engine than a turbo. I don't remember any of the numbers off the top of my head, but reddevil's supercharged 2.2 made essentially the same power as a turbo'd 2.2 running the same amount of boost. AND, if you use the Mercedes-version of the Eaton M62, you have the clutched pulley, so when you're out of boost, it has no more drag than an idler pulley.

Well, if they kept their foot buried in the throttle while in the air, the shock of regaining traction could be pretty rough on the trans. I don't know, a quick look on car-part shows D/Rs for fairly cheap, but I'd take it for free...

Looks awesome man! Keep at it! I absolutely understand the frustrations with the little problems. Sometimes you have to just leave it, and do something else. That's where I'm at with my 4runner project now.....but I'm not giving up. It'll get done sooner or later.

no, XT6 control arms is the same length as EA82. Track width is near enough the same (I think the wheels make it a bit wider, but I don't have the FSM handy) I have mixed and matched radius rods with no noticeable difference, don't know where the part number difference comes from. XT6 wheel bearings are the same as EJ ones (different seals though). Completely different than 4-lug.

4 lug axles are no more similar than honda axles. You will need EJ series axles

gen 3? isn't that EA82? those fit just fine. I know DOHC heads won't work in an EA81....but I'm curious about SOHC 2.5 heads (which is what would be in a '00 outback). There's an EA81, and an '01 EJ251 on opposite ends of my buddy's shop.....I really need to get them next to each other.

yea, shouldn't be too hard. That '00 might have a 3- or 4-plug ECU. Not really a bad thing, just means it's a little different, and you probably won't find a plug and play 2.2 ECU (oh well...) It might also use a MAP sensor, and integrated IAC into the TB. These things will complicate the use of 2.2 intake/heads. But, IMHO, the flow of the 2.5 heads is better than the compression bump of the frankenmotor. We ran a '97 motor on an '02 ECU, wasn't toooo difficult to adapt the newer TB and MAP sensor onto the older motor, but it was a project. But, I don't have my FSMs on this computer, so I'm just going of the top of my head. I'm genuinely not sure what the '00 Outback would use, but these are the things to consider.

hYea, OBD II logic modules are much smarter. Able to correct fuel trims much better! Also, '96-'99(?) single-plug ECUs are interchangeable. So you can run a 2.5 ECU. And yea, harness is much easier to strip (and install). The engine control stuff doesn't spider into the entire harness nearly as much. My brat will be getting a '96 impreza harness. Stripping it is the same idea as the obd i stuff. Identify what you'll need, and remove everything else. But you'll find those 2 parts much easier to separate.

hehe, yea, it's pretty sweet. Before I can start on the really awesome parts, it needed some more basic stuff. For whatever reason, the stock ignition switch was screwed up, and being operated with a screwdriver. So I bought a universal panel-mount one, and mounted it on the dash: And got to work on the rear disc swap. Still have to play musical calipers with my XT6, so the drums are still hanging there by the lines to keep the fluid in. Hopefully I'll get that finished up next week. Also, my buddy used studs that were too long when he did the 6-lug swap. it wasn't much of an issue with the rears, but the front threads were bottomed out before the nuts got even close to the wheels. And, he torqued the crap out of them.....So, the nuts and studs were ruined, and the holes in the hubs are ruined. Luckily, the toyota wheels have a large enough center bore that clear the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor. So, the hub can be removed with the wheel still on it, so the next time I'm out at the shop, I'll bring some demolishing tools and get those crappy studs removed, and re-do the 6-lug conversion. THEN it should be driveable

Well, the threads dont go down far enough on the EJ studs to work with a steel wheel. Grabbed some dorman 610378 studs and got those pressed in today. Weather sucks....so I still haven't gotten the rear calipers swapped out on the XT6. Also found an OEM part number for the 4.444 front R&P and found a few sources for that....so yea, that's happening. Might have a line on a 20kg STi phase 2 center diff (stock is 4kg...). Couple possible sources on 1.59 low range gears. trying to decide what 5th gear to use. I think with the larger tires, the .871 RX 5th will be fine (about 3100 rpm in 5th at 70), but I have a .780 XT6 5th (2800) gear, or .738 (2650) WRX.... I think with the EJ18 it'll be best with the shorter 5th gear.

I'll see what I can find. But I'd bet the inner splines are different..... a quick look in my '88 XT FSM. They only list the 4-cyl and AT as a FWD option. And definitely using 25-spline stubs. I think there's a slightly better chance of the 3AT fronts working, but I'm not holding my breath. I think I'll be building hybrid axles....

I don't know if you found anything. But I just bolted a steely to my hub with the EJ studs on it.....well, since the EJ studs are designed to go through the brake rotor, the knuckle is too long. I bottomed out the lug nut before the stud was fully seated. Probably would work fine with alloys, as the wheel material is thicker.....but not with steelies. I searched on summit for 12x1.25 studs, and only found one reasonably-priced option. They're the exact same dimensions as the EJ subaru ones, except the shoulder is 1mm shorter, which is probably enough. Dorman #610378. RockAuto lists "#4322221B00, 4322221B60, 4322225B60, 4322228B10, 4322241B00, 432225V200, 4322270T00, 432227S200, 610375, 6103781, 98353, 983531" in the description for those dorman studs. So I'm sure those are some other part numbers. Also says that part number is for Nissan/Infinity.