Numbchux

Wish I lived closer to you....I'd happily come over for an afternoon and wire the car for ya. I'm sure in person it would only take me a few hours. I've done much more complicated harnesses in less. The tach should be as easy as connecting the signal wire. AFAIK, the stock system just gets a signal from the ground side of the coil, so that shouldn't change.

Kinda hard to tell....but this was the first day driving my wagon with the 5-lug swap. I drove it for about a week with 3 studs on each back wheel....

good grief. They're just over a buck ea from rockauto.....

With them all mounted to the body, it's all straight. I can't think of any reason why even blocks at all 3 crossmembers wouldn't work out just fine. what 4" lift are you running? are they 4" blocks all around? Most aren't

I bought a box of them on rock auto a few years ago. Looks like they still carry a selection. the knurl diameter is smaller on the fronts than an EJ stud. But, as a result, I have a bunch sitting on my workbench in good condition (pressed out of the hub, not pounded).

This is absolutely a myth. Superchargers have almost no more restriction on an engine than a turbo. I don't remember any of the numbers off the top of my head, but reddevil's supercharged 2.2 made essentially the same power as a turbo'd 2.2 running the same amount of boost. AND, if you use the Mercedes-version of the Eaton M62, you have the clutched pulley, so when you're out of boost, it has no more drag than an idler pulley.

Well, if they kept their foot buried in the throttle while in the air, the shock of regaining traction could be pretty rough on the trans. I don't know, a quick look on car-part shows D/Rs for fairly cheap, but I'd take it for free...

Looks awesome man! Keep at it! I absolutely understand the frustrations with the little problems. Sometimes you have to just leave it, and do something else. That's where I'm at with my 4runner project now.....but I'm not giving up. It'll get done sooner or later.

no, XT6 control arms is the same length as EA82. Track width is near enough the same (I think the wheels make it a bit wider, but I don't have the FSM handy) I have mixed and matched radius rods with no noticeable difference, don't know where the part number difference comes from. XT6 wheel bearings are the same as EJ ones (different seals though). Completely different than 4-lug.

4 lug axles are no more similar than honda axles. You will need EJ series axles

gen 3? isn't that EA82? those fit just fine. I know DOHC heads won't work in an EA81....but I'm curious about SOHC 2.5 heads (which is what would be in a '00 outback). There's an EA81, and an '01 EJ251 on opposite ends of my buddy's shop.....I really need to get them next to each other.

yea, shouldn't be too hard. That '00 might have a 3- or 4-plug ECU. Not really a bad thing, just means it's a little different, and you probably won't find a plug and play 2.2 ECU (oh well...) It might also use a MAP sensor, and integrated IAC into the TB. These things will complicate the use of 2.2 intake/heads. But, IMHO, the flow of the 2.5 heads is better than the compression bump of the frankenmotor. We ran a '97 motor on an '02 ECU, wasn't toooo difficult to adapt the newer TB and MAP sensor onto the older motor, but it was a project. But, I don't have my FSMs on this computer, so I'm just going of the top of my head. I'm genuinely not sure what the '00 Outback would use, but these are the things to consider.

hYea, OBD II logic modules are much smarter. Able to correct fuel trims much better! Also, '96-'99(?) single-plug ECUs are interchangeable. So you can run a 2.5 ECU. And yea, harness is much easier to strip (and install). The engine control stuff doesn't spider into the entire harness nearly as much. My brat will be getting a '96 impreza harness. Stripping it is the same idea as the obd i stuff. Identify what you'll need, and remove everything else. But you'll find those 2 parts much easier to separate.

hehe, yea, it's pretty sweet. Before I can start on the really awesome parts, it needed some more basic stuff. For whatever reason, the stock ignition switch was screwed up, and being operated with a screwdriver. So I bought a universal panel-mount one, and mounted it on the dash: And got to work on the rear disc swap. Still have to play musical calipers with my XT6, so the drums are still hanging there by the lines to keep the fluid in. Hopefully I'll get that finished up next week. Also, my buddy used studs that were too long when he did the 6-lug swap. it wasn't much of an issue with the rears, but the front threads were bottomed out before the nuts got even close to the wheels. And, he torqued the crap out of them.....So, the nuts and studs were ruined, and the holes in the hubs are ruined. Luckily, the toyota wheels have a large enough center bore that clear the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor. So, the hub can be removed with the wheel still on it, so the next time I'm out at the shop, I'll bring some demolishing tools and get those crappy studs removed, and re-do the 6-lug conversion. THEN it should be driveable

Well, the threads dont go down far enough on the EJ studs to work with a steel wheel. Grabbed some dorman 610378 studs and got those pressed in today. Weather sucks....so I still haven't gotten the rear calipers swapped out on the XT6. Also found an OEM part number for the 4.444 front R&P and found a few sources for that....so yea, that's happening. Might have a line on a 20kg STi phase 2 center diff (stock is 4kg...). Couple possible sources on 1.59 low range gears. trying to decide what 5th gear to use. I think with the larger tires, the .871 RX 5th will be fine (about 3100 rpm in 5th at 70), but I have a .780 XT6 5th (2800) gear, or .738 (2650) WRX.... I think with the EJ18 it'll be best with the shorter 5th gear.

I'll see what I can find. But I'd bet the inner splines are different..... a quick look in my '88 XT FSM. They only list the 4-cyl and AT as a FWD option. And definitely using 25-spline stubs. I think there's a slightly better chance of the 3AT fronts working, but I'm not holding my breath. I think I'll be building hybrid axles....

I don't know if you found anything. But I just bolted a steely to my hub with the EJ studs on it.....well, since the EJ studs are designed to go through the brake rotor, the knuckle is too long. I bottomed out the lug nut before the stud was fully seated. Probably would work fine with alloys, as the wheel material is thicker.....but not with steelies. I searched on summit for 12x1.25 studs, and only found one reasonably-priced option. They're the exact same dimensions as the EJ subaru ones, except the shoulder is 1mm shorter, which is probably enough. Dorman #610378. RockAuto lists "#4322221B00, 4322221B60, 4322225B60, 4322228B10, 4322241B00, 432225V200, 4322270T00, 432227S200, 610375, 6103781, 98353, 983531" in the description for those dorman studs. So I'm sure those are some other part numbers. Also says that part number is for Nissan/Infinity.

Cool, didn't know that. now. would that be 23-spline? A quick look on Rock Auto says that the auto-trans version uses the same front axles as EA82ts. But I don't really consider that a reliable source.... Any ideas on the 3AT? That would probably be easier to get ahold of.

I'm looking at getting a Carbonetic clutch-type front LSD to put in the brat. It uses 4EAT-style axle stubs..... So, AFAIK, the 4EATs were only available behind the ER27, EA82t, or EJs, which would mean 25 spline stubs. Any chance the 3AT stubs would work?

Collector market? for a not-even-slightly stock '86 coupe? Modifications almost never add value. The right person might recognize it as being something special. If you want to list it for 3500, more power to you. But I wouldn't hold your breath.

I got 1500 for my wagon. It was 4-lug, but the 5-lug swap won't add much unless you find someone looking for it. running, AWD subarus seem to be commanding a premium these days. So you might see over $2k. But I would be surprised.

started on the rear disc swap. First step was convert the disc hubs to 6-lug. well, broke 2 1/2" drill bits trying to use a hand drill on the first hole. Then borrowed a benchtop press, and got the hole drilled, to find out that was too small a hole for the EJ lug studs I had. Ordered a 35/64 bit, which was perfect..... I have to swap my 200SX calipers onto my XT6, and then I'll have calipers for the brat. Hopefully next week I'll get out to the shop to get that all installed, and attend to the front hubs (when the 6-lug swap was originally done, the holes in the hubs were drilled a bit too big, I'm hoping to just find some studs with a larger knurl). And finish mounting the new ignition switch. Once all that's done, I'll start driving it a bit to work out the kinks.

yea, that's an EA81. DOHC engine won't fit without notching the frame rails. Although I don't know what turbo DOHC '96 legacy you might be looking at. They didn't sell 'em like that....not in North America, anyway.

Pretty common practice for remanufactured axles. They get a core back with screwed up threads, so they cut it down to a smaller size. I've seen a few of them.

doing some POR15 work on the rear wheel well rust. apparently Marine Clean takes year-old iron ore mud off with ease.... Cut out a chunk from an old Thinkpad laptop case to cover the hole where the old tcase shifter was. Then I drilled 5 holes in it..... Then I started the wiring...with 3 tabs per switch, there was a bit to do I decided to integrate a number of circuits into a custom add-on harness so that I can continue to add to this setup without having a rats-nest of wiring. So I found a matched pair of plugs from an old subaru harness so I can unplug the shifter trim for future maintenance. Then 5 relays will mount behind/under the radio. Then the wires go over towards the passenger side, where they will tap into a 6-position fuse box mounted to the body under the glovebox. And then the wires that go into the engine bay will tie into the Blazer engine harness for a nice, clean, OEM look. the 6 circuits are: radiator fan (using a SPDT relay, using the "normal-on" side to reverse the polarity of the switch. So the light on the switch will be ON when the fan is OFF. I have also added a plug so I can add a temp switch in the upper radiator hose in the future for automatic control) On-Board Air (plan on using the blazer A/C compressor, also wired for a pressure switch) E-locker (using the Land-Cruiser control unit which is why there isn't a relay, and a covered toggle switch so it can't be accidentally switched) and 3 sets of lights (probably 1 on the front bumper, 1 on the roof, and rock lights)