Numbchux

I believe the struts alone are about 1.5" taller. You don't need to use the springs, but you'll gain a bit more from them.

maybe in a nissan. AFAIK, all subaru r180s are 3.9. at least through 2007 I know all r160 internals swap. I would assume the same would be true with the r180

I know. The post I was responding to just said Z-cars. and I don't know them very well, so I was trying to get some clarification. I could have access to a Z31 diff and an STi diff. so if I was mistaken and the Z31 was an r180, I could possibly make a comparison.

There are studs in the engine block for the bottom 2 holes. The 4 in the middle are just for dowels. Re-use the stockers. The top 4 should have bolts, they have to be a pretty precise length to get full engagement but not bottom out. You'll have to drill out the threads on the engine bellhousing so you can bolt the plate to the engine block, and then install like normal. My MRose adapter plates used fairly standard threads, so the hardware could easily bought at a hardware store. I would assume SJR did the same, but I'm not sure. I do know a couple guys with unused SJR plates....I could see if they have any more info.

hmmmm....interesting. I knew the Ea81s had a smaller trans tunnel....but I figured the vacuum diaphragm would be close enough to the engine bay that it wouldn't be an issue. good to know!

hmmm....interesting. Pretty sure my dad's Z31 is an r200.

what are you putting it in that you don't have room for the stock vacuum diaphragm? depending on what exactly your space problems are, you might be able to just un-bolt it from the trans and relocate it. Other than that, it'll have to be custom. A cable directly to the lever on the center diff housing will definitely be the simplest. Get creative with the zzz and

There are a TON of different ways to go with that. Just have to decide what you want, how much you want to spend, and how you'll use them. If you're wheeling in the trees, roof lights have a pretty good chance of getting damaged. so I'd err on the cheap side. Hella 500s are a pretty common option, seems to be a pretty good compromise of cost and quality. Personally I'd just go to wal-mart/northern tool/harbor freight/local auto parts store and grab a set of generic off-road flood lights. That's what I had on the roof of the PoopenVagon. Worked great for lighting up the trails at night. I plan to do the same on the 4runner. If you're mounting them on the roof, you probably won't be able to use them on the street without getting hassled by the popo, so no need for pencil/driving beams. I'd suggest looking for a fog/flood pattern. As for wiring, I tucked the wires under the B-pillar trim, and then out at the upper-front corner of the rear door. Kept them out of harms way, and pretty close to the roof rack too.

Zs are an r200, though, aren't they? USDM STis had a 3.9 too. But they're not cheap. in theory the R&P should intherchange

clutch disc on backwards?

Anything will fit.....zzz Consider the body will be higher up Re the frame because you'll have 2 frames. So you'll have more vertical clearance. Also, due to how far forward the transmission is with the subaru drivetrain. By using a divorced tcase and front axle, you'll be able to move the whole drivetrain back quite a bit. Yea, you'll have to get creative with the radiator and stuff, but I'm sure it could be done.

yea, get the axle to move, or sometimes a flathead screwdriver in the notch to force it to expand. Also, a torch pointed right at the washer will usually get it to pop out too. also, the rotor is bolted to the hub, so either unbolt the rotor (EDIT: I see you already did this), or remove the caliper.

Bump. Just got back from Sno*Drift. Got a couple other projects lined up. Since I don't know what's going on with this one, I don't dare start it, so I guess it's going down to the basement. Whoever you are, please contact me!!

The factory foglights are great for the factory application. But for something that's going to be custom anyway, you can do a lot better for a fraction of the price!

I had 5" extensions on my '88, and with only 1" drop on the diff, I blew up 2 rear axles in about a half a day worth of wheeling. swapped to a 2" diff drop and 4" extensions, and never had a problem again. So there definitely is a limit. Only way to re-center the wheel is to lower the whole suspension crossmember. Which is not a good idea if you actually plan on wheeling it, as it'll make a major hangup point and weak link. Good news is, due to the trailing arm being where it is, the tire will never get any closer to the body in front of the tire. So if it's not touching now, it won't be a problem.

I don't think he had rod failure. He blew the piston ringlands apart a couple times due to a lean condition.

reddevil milling Phase 2 EJ251 rods to accept STi pistons: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17334554&postcount=784 He was running 20+ psi, twin-charged, through it about 50 miles later.

Check out my post in your other thread....

lol. Yea. Still gets out to Gilbert about once a year. Definitely not road-worthy anymore

This was an OBD I EJ22, right? Cats won't be effected at all. Just put one in each side, done. Put the 02 sensor in one side or the other, and it'll run pretty well. it'll only read the A/F from 2 cylinders, so you'll have to assume the other 2 are running close enough. "Run right"? depends on your definition. I have heard (and it makes sense in theory) that a boxer really needs the scavenging of having both sides connected to run at it's best. Since both cylinders on one bank fire, and then the other bank. By splitting them up into 2 separate systems, the temperature fluctuates too much, and the velocity of the exhaust gases drops. Here's an idea I was planning on running on my wagon. Keep the measurements from the header flanges to the crossover exactly the same as the borla header, and then open it immediately back up to 2 pipes and continue on to 2 decent mufflers.

The Poopenvagon always did, and still does, have stock subaru lug nuts with 15" pug steelies. It's probably been 8 years or so since that car was built, and the last 5 it's been used only for bashing around the farm. If it hasn't failed on that car, I'd consider it safe

Wow...I didn't catch this thread before. Cool build!! Not exactly. Most of the world (Australia included) rates their octane based on the Research number alone (RON). Here in the US, we use the R+M/2 (Average of Research and Motor octane, also known as the AKI), which is lower. AKI tends to be 4 or 5 points lower than RON. Meaning 93 AKI would be the same as 98 RON. And 91 would probably be just fine for non-race days. I would highly recommend getting a good knock monitoring system (knock-link being my preference). and experiment a little. You'll find different brands of fuel effect how much knock you're getting (in this area, Shell tends to have the most stable fuel).

yep. that plate/bracket thing get tossed in the junk heap. slide a chunk of rubber on there to isolate it, and slap a few zipties on there however fits best, and call it a day It's not perfect or exact, but it works great. Just make sure you don't have any metal-on-metal. Cause the vibrations and such WILL wear through the side of the pump.

the front 02 is pretty important. the OBD II ECUs are pretty smart, and will make adjustments to the fuel trims based on that 02 sensor. The rear one is just to check the efficiency for the catalytic converter. it'll throw a code if it's not hooked up (or, if you don't have a cat), but it won't effect the way it runs. the 02 sensor bung is mounted in the cat-pipe, right after the manifold, on OBD II setups.

Everytime I've replaced one, it's gone back in with zip-ties. I bought a chunk of 3" (I think...) radiator hose a couple years ago. happens to perfectly slip over the outside of the fuel pump. helps prevent damage to the outer case if it's up against something. I don't think there's really a good way to do it. given it's location, and the small hardware it uses, it'll be pretty prone to failure. The bracket even came out pretty easy in my loyale, but the non-OEM replacement pump was too big for the brackets, and still ended up held in with zipties.