Numbchux

yep, but they don't put 4.0s in JKs..... the "Just Empty Every Pocket" acronym is funny, but as far as wheeling rigs, about as far from the truth as possible. the aftermarket for jeeps is enormous, and competition is fierce.

Sure.... '92 Loyale wagon before after latest (actually, it will be re-5-lugged here before too long. it's current owner just contacted me) '88 GL '94 Legacy GT '88 XT6 before middle after (yesterday) '89 XT6 before middle after

the funny thing, is that's the softest, mildest, most street-friendly wrangler ever. And it's still better offroad than most subarus will ever be. personally, if I'm going to cave and get a jeep, it would be a TJ wrangler. shorter wheelbase, super cheap to modify, removable roof. not a big fan of the minivan motor they put in those JKs....

yep, '95 was OBD II as well for the 2.2s. But the wiring and ECUs are unique to that year. pretty hard to find diagrams, and replacement parts should you need them.

depending how you drive it, an OBD I EJ22 and PT4WD trans will probably yield 22-32 mpg. an OBD II ECU runs a bit more effeciently, so with that, you could probably hit almost 35mpg. I would recommend a slightly taller tire if/when you replace them. the torque band of the 2.2 works much better with slightly taller tires.

EA81s came with a version of the digi dash.....also junk. you're going to have a lot of trouble hitting your 35mpg goal with an AWD trans in there at all. especially an automatic one. But I bet a 5MT PT4WD one would get your there. although not that great on the "track", unless that's just a drag strip. Also, you will probably have fitment issues with a 4EAT in an EA81 tunnel.

I happened to have my '88 XT owners manual on the desk here. It recommends 75w/90 for all temperature ranges. I usually run Castrol HypoyC 80w/90 damage probably didn't occur. it has to be pretty much dry before anything bad happens.

Whew! silly me. Turns out you had all the answers to everything ever all along let us know how that goes for ya! boy, using front dust sheilds to make rear backing plates, and fabricating caliper brackets from scratch. Wow, why didn't anyone else think of these things!!! "rear park brake however on my rally wagon this would be well worth it" your words, my friend. But yea, I guess since you're an accomplished rally driver and WRC builder you would know better.

old thread bump, huh.... only issue you might run into. is the splines for the axles changed a few times. so depending on the combo, you might run into issues.

meh. a true rally build needs a hydraulic handbrake if you plan to use it to induce a slide. Even if 200SX calipers were common (240SX/silvia ones would work too), it doesn't solve much. you still need the subaru hubs, rotors, backing plates, caliper brackets and pads. seems to me if you were getting all that, you'd get the subaru calipers too.

I did a write-up on the 200SX swap a few years ago when I did it on my Loyale. Look for it in the brakes section of the USRM

the nissan calipers work with the subaru caliper brackets. Thing is, the backing plate is just a piece of 1/4" (or so) steel with some holes drilled in it. wouldn't be too difficult to cut your own to work with almost any locally available caliper. the hub would be the hardest part to recreate. But maybe you could machine down a drum into a usable hub. and then find a rotor that could be machined/redrilled to slip over it (with some longer studs, of course).

sounds like you don't have the neutral start switch shorted correctly. ECU has no control over starter circuit.

not really an option. mounting hole spacing between knuckle and caliper bracket are different, as is rotor hat offset. Although ER calipers can be mounted to turbo-legacy caliper brackets with the t-leg rotors. then you retain the front ebrake, although I'd rather give up the ebrake for the twin-piston t-leg calipers. other than that, it's a good suggestion. I would recommend the EJ knuckles for brake options. Also, the EJ knuckles move the steering pivot point a bit inboard, which helps the geometry quite a bit (but, requires EA81 rod ends in order to retain realistic toe settings)

yea, those seals weren't exactly off the shelf either. CVs weren't designed to be easily serviceable like DOJs, but I've heard of the "pipe trick" to get them apart..... I keep meaning to grab a pipe of the right diameter, and try it out. I just took a look at a couple knuckles in the basement. looks like the EJ knuckle pushes the bearing/hub out about .25" further than the ER relative the balljoint and strut mounts. so that would explain the length issue using EJ axles with ER knuckles.

actually, it's not the hub that's the issue, it's the inner wheel bearing seal. negative. XT6 and EA82 control arms are the same length, just different ball joint hole. EJ axles are longer than XT6, but the inner DOJ should be able to soak up the extra length. I ran '92 Legacy front axles (along with the knuckles and hubs....) on a number of EA/ER cars. you have 2 options. Get your hands on different seals so you can use the EJ axles in the ER hubs. I did some research, and found a part number that will work with this combo: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=836218&postcount=20 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=840456&postcount=23 if you don't feel like reading my long, rambling posts....you're looking for Timken #225678 or, make a hybrid axle. using 23-spline inner joints on XT6 shafts. from the parts I have laying around, it looks like EA82 front inner joints will slip right onto XT6 shafts.

We're planning on running a full R-A national schedule with #171 next year. And we're looking for some local support for Olympus and Oregon Trail. -Looking for a place to stay (4 of us. probably camping) -a place to store the rig between the 2 events (we intend to leave the service truck/trailer/rally car near Portland and fly home for the 2 weeks between) -a place to work on the car (preferably in Portland, Tuesday and wednesday before Oregon Trail) -possibly a local sponsor. We plan on running recce for both events, so the rally car could probably sit at a local business for the day, and of course stickers and mention in publications (Ziptie Rally recap of LSPR made it on the home page of Rally-America and Special Stage). help paying for tires/gas/etc. would be awesome! These could be connections that you might have, or even just suggestions. Olympus, April 30 - May 1, Ocean Shore, WA Oregon Trial, May 13-15, TBD, OR (last year, HQ was in The Dalles. there will be stages near there and Portland...)

please stop digging up 4+ year old threads! It's great knowing that you're using the search function....but the next step is watching the date on your search results.

I have heard that they're hard to get a hold of.

it is the exact same sensor with a different plug, agreed. but I guarantee it's in a slightly different place. when I put the '96 impreza 2.2 in the '86 wagon a couple years ago, the timing covers were in pretty crappy shape, and I had some off a '93 motor. the hole was in a noticeably different place. probably 10 degrees or so lower. unfortunately I no longer have any of that stuff in my possession, so I can't compare them. I can only assume the tone ring on the pulley is calibrated differently to accommodate.

it's not uncommon to machine the center wholes on stock chevy wheels to fit on toyotas. and I know stock toyota wheels will clear subarus. So I wouldn't be surprised if you could find a local machine shop that could do it for fairly cheap. otherwise....yea.....grind off the centering tabs on the hubs.

VSS should not cause limp mode on an OBD I engine. I would say disconnect that wire (for troubleshooting at least), and go from there. I've worked with a bunch of buggy guys that have used the enginewiring.com simulator. always positive feedback.

are you sure of that? the location of the cam sensor changed in '95 or so, and I was under the impression that the cam pulley was different as well. interchangeable.....but different.

way to be a wongleflute without actually being helpful. yes, we've established that they are 13x5. I didn't (don't? your attitude makes me inclined to dismiss you...) know they printed manufacture dates on the rim. even so, they could still easily be for a justy. or EA81. either would drastically limit the fitment.

measure the distance from the center of one lug hole to one straight across from it. that'll tell if it's from an '80s model (5.5") or a justy (more like 4". I dont remember exactly).