Numbchux

the nissan calipers work with the subaru caliper brackets. Thing is, the backing plate is just a piece of 1/4" (or so) steel with some holes drilled in it. wouldn't be too difficult to cut your own to work with almost any locally available caliper. the hub would be the hardest part to recreate. But maybe you could machine down a drum into a usable hub. and then find a rotor that could be machined/redrilled to slip over it (with some longer studs, of course).

sounds like you don't have the neutral start switch shorted correctly. ECU has no control over starter circuit.

not really an option. mounting hole spacing between knuckle and caliper bracket are different, as is rotor hat offset. Although ER calipers can be mounted to turbo-legacy caliper brackets with the t-leg rotors. then you retain the front ebrake, although I'd rather give up the ebrake for the twin-piston t-leg calipers. other than that, it's a good suggestion. I would recommend the EJ knuckles for brake options. Also, the EJ knuckles move the steering pivot point a bit inboard, which helps the geometry quite a bit (but, requires EA81 rod ends in order to retain realistic toe settings)

yea, those seals weren't exactly off the shelf either. CVs weren't designed to be easily serviceable like DOJs, but I've heard of the "pipe trick" to get them apart..... I keep meaning to grab a pipe of the right diameter, and try it out. I just took a look at a couple knuckles in the basement. looks like the EJ knuckle pushes the bearing/hub out about .25" further than the ER relative the balljoint and strut mounts. so that would explain the length issue using EJ axles with ER knuckles.

actually, it's not the hub that's the issue, it's the inner wheel bearing seal. negative. XT6 and EA82 control arms are the same length, just different ball joint hole. EJ axles are longer than XT6, but the inner DOJ should be able to soak up the extra length. I ran '92 Legacy front axles (along with the knuckles and hubs....) on a number of EA/ER cars. you have 2 options. Get your hands on different seals so you can use the EJ axles in the ER hubs. I did some research, and found a part number that will work with this combo: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=836218&postcount=20 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=840456&postcount=23 if you don't feel like reading my long, rambling posts....you're looking for Timken #225678 or, make a hybrid axle. using 23-spline inner joints on XT6 shafts. from the parts I have laying around, it looks like EA82 front inner joints will slip right onto XT6 shafts.

We're planning on running a full R-A national schedule with #171 next year. And we're looking for some local support for Olympus and Oregon Trail. -Looking for a place to stay (4 of us. probably camping) -a place to store the rig between the 2 events (we intend to leave the service truck/trailer/rally car near Portland and fly home for the 2 weeks between) -a place to work on the car (preferably in Portland, Tuesday and wednesday before Oregon Trail) -possibly a local sponsor. We plan on running recce for both events, so the rally car could probably sit at a local business for the day, and of course stickers and mention in publications (Ziptie Rally recap of LSPR made it on the home page of Rally-America and Special Stage). help paying for tires/gas/etc. would be awesome! These could be connections that you might have, or even just suggestions. Olympus, April 30 - May 1, Ocean Shore, WA Oregon Trial, May 13-15, TBD, OR (last year, HQ was in The Dalles. there will be stages near there and Portland...)

please stop digging up 4+ year old threads! It's great knowing that you're using the search function....but the next step is watching the date on your search results.

I have heard that they're hard to get a hold of.

it is the exact same sensor with a different plug, agreed. but I guarantee it's in a slightly different place. when I put the '96 impreza 2.2 in the '86 wagon a couple years ago, the timing covers were in pretty crappy shape, and I had some off a '93 motor. the hole was in a noticeably different place. probably 10 degrees or so lower. unfortunately I no longer have any of that stuff in my possession, so I can't compare them. I can only assume the tone ring on the pulley is calibrated differently to accommodate.

it's not uncommon to machine the center wholes on stock chevy wheels to fit on toyotas. and I know stock toyota wheels will clear subarus. So I wouldn't be surprised if you could find a local machine shop that could do it for fairly cheap. otherwise....yea.....grind off the centering tabs on the hubs.

VSS should not cause limp mode on an OBD I engine. I would say disconnect that wire (for troubleshooting at least), and go from there. I've worked with a bunch of buggy guys that have used the enginewiring.com simulator. always positive feedback.

are you sure of that? the location of the cam sensor changed in '95 or so, and I was under the impression that the cam pulley was different as well. interchangeable.....but different.

way to be a wongleflute without actually being helpful. yes, we've established that they are 13x5. I didn't (don't? your attitude makes me inclined to dismiss you...) know they printed manufacture dates on the rim. even so, they could still easily be for a justy. or EA81. either would drastically limit the fitment.

measure the distance from the center of one lug hole to one straight across from it. that'll tell if it's from an '80s model (5.5") or a justy (more like 4". I dont remember exactly).

that wire is for the self-shutoff control, which means the ECU can control the ignition relay. the diagram that I drew up is a simpler way to do it. I prefer to do it the other way, using the diode. But either way will work fine.

year range is '95-'99 for that body style. I know first gen 5MTs were 4.111, but a friend of mine has a '96 legacy brighton 2.2l 5MT that's 3.90. maybe I'll climb under my dad's '96 L 4EAT tomorrow and see what it is.

We put a hatch tank in a brat. wasn't too difficult, just used a steel plate ~3" across with some holes along each edge. bolted one to the tank, and the other to the mounts on the frame. Wasn't hard, but yea.....not a perfect fit. GL/DL are trim levels. there are FWD GLs that would not have the right tank, and 4WD DLs that would, or vice versa. as long as it's within the year ranges and body styles that McBrat posted, it'll be fine.

yep, I'm well aware of many of the issues. I'm putting a 4.3 and 700r4 in my toyota 4runner, so I've done a bunch of research on the 700. Most of that fabrication stuff doesn't worry me, but the bellhousing adapter was something we're a bit uncomfortable with. Anyway, I'll stop hijacking your thread. Love the project, and love where you're going with it. I'll be watching closely, and I might contact you sometime over the winter about buying a copy of those plans.

Yea, that's fine. Our project is very much still in the planning phase. So we're not in a hurry. And I think those plans would be worth something. We've been watching the thread about the adapter to go to a toyota 5-speed transmission. But this build would do much better with an automatic! I don't know the GM stuff all that well, but I think this would work with a 700R4, right?

Absolutely awesome! any chance you'd be willing to copy/share your plans for that adapter plate/hub?

?? VSS is the vehicle speed sensor. Which should be the signal coming from the speedo telling the ECU when you're moving. Not related to the tach

about 2" no, if the dust shield doesn't even reach the back of the trans....it's not enough.

The only downside to the 1.8, is they don't have a knock sensor. so they cannot adjust timing maps to compensate. This isn't a huge deal in stock form. but if you're beating on it, and if you ever want to step up to a 2.2 or 2.5.... Go for the EJ18. but I would highly recommend running it on a '96+ OBD II EJ22 ECU. You'll get the most out of the 18, and then you'll get the most out of anything beyond that (2.5 ECU is plug and play).

I don't remember if I ran into anyone up there last year. not a national event this year....but we'll be there, as well as almost 40 other entrants. Ziptie Rally will be running our usual #171 Open Class '04 STi, as well as the #858 Open Light '02 impreza, and #558 Group 5 Chevy S10 baja truck. Should be an awesome time! Stop by and say hi, we'll have the NOS energy drink tent, and will be handing out free NOS at service.

that's pretty common for just 1" spacers. since EJ cars have a camber adjustment between the strut and knuckle.