Numbchux

I hope this doesn't sound rude....but was this really that much of a mystery? I put 4.111 gears in my XT6 case. pretty sure I have all the parts to do a 1.19:1 low 4.111 D/R at my house right now. all I'd need is 1.59:1 gears and a modded 4.111 ring gear and I'd be set.

I used one of those as well. and then stock LegacyGT cat and mid-pipes. Just use EJ stuff, and then a custom muffler. done.

Alright, first off. where did you get that pinout? it's strange, as it looks like the FSM one, but shares none of the plug references (B125, B126, etc.) with any '92 legacy diagram I've seen. also the pinouts I've had have turbo and non-turbo listed, as there are only a handful of wires that are different. anyway, all those wires for the sensors. just leave em alone. the shielded wires for the CASs are only hooked up to the ECU and sensor plugs. so you shouldn't have to touch them. They should remain shielded to ensure a good signal, but if need be, it's not entirely necessary. I ran 2 seperate wires for the crank sensor on my loyale EJ22 swap when the shielded wire became damaged. almost all of those wires can be found either at the ignition switch or the back of the gauge cluster. that is, by far, the easiest way to track everything down. beats the heck out of tracking them down individually in the engine bay. all EA82s have an oil light in the strip of idiot lights below the gauges. IMHO, just wire it to that, and be done with it. ignition switch is what turns the ECU on. so yes, you need that. neutral switch needs to be hooked up to a neutral or clutch switch to not throw a code. always disconnected or always grounded will be equally faulty. some carbed EA82s have a clutch pedal switch, otherwise, they're easy to install. just get the switch and plug from a car with one, and replace the stopper bolt on the pedal box.

Sure it does. The starter gets power, doesn't it? just grab that. That's how it's done stock anyway....

I believe the power going to the stock fuel pump relay is switched via the old engine control (I forget how it works....but it's designed not to have power if the engine isn't running). so stock fuel relay will require 3 splices. EJ one requires 1. IMHO it's just simpler to use the EJ one. it's all wired in there like it should be, just grab that power wire and get it to the pump. done. as for the rest. here's the page I send along with a cut harness: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/Harness%20info.pdf

link? sf.org is something about evangelical christians.....

Well, my understanding (never done it, so correct me if I'm wrong) but an EA82 driveshaft will fit in an EA81 (non-hatch) with an EA82 transmission without being modified for length. I had 2 inches taken out of my Ea82 shaft to work with an EJ transmission, and it was perfect. it doesn't need to be exact, as long as you err on the short side (too long is bad. but too short, probably even as much as in inch short, would be fine for the slip yoke and seal. although depending on how much power your making will depend on how much spline engagement is acceptable). also, be careful about how you take your measurements. I found that the dust shield around that slip yoke to be different lengths on an EA82 trans vs an EJ one, so the end of the transmission isn't necessarily an accurate representation of the end of the output shaft. I ended up using the front half of a driveshaft, and measuring from the mating surface on the transmission to the flange on the driveshaft.

hmm...I had a pair of Monroes on the back of my loyale for awhile. of course, it was a street-queen....so I wasn't exactly pushing them. EDIT: w00t. 5,000th post!

ummmm....no. gen 3 4runners have a coilover front shock that's almost identical to gen3 subaru rears. here's a Rancho one for a 97 4Runner from RockAuto: I am curious, however. When you say "new stock strut", what brand?

as I mentioned earlier in the thread. you will need a signal modulator to make it work correctly. this is the same signal wire as your tachometer, and it works by sending one pulse per ignition fire. which means it happens more often per revolution on a 6-cyl. the result is, your tach will say 6k rpms if the engine is only doing 4k. Which will also mean the TCU would think you're at redline when you're only at 4k. But, get a signal modulator/divider, and I guarantee it will work. I have used this one in a few EG33 swaps, and will be using one in my GM 4.3 -> toyota 4runner swap. http://myplace.frontier.com/~vze7erz1/id1.html#tsdmod I didn't think to look at the diagnostics section. I have FSMs for the SVX and many newer cars as well. when I get back to town (away at a rally now) I'll look it up and see what I find. IF it is a 5v on/off signal. you may be able to give the ECU what it needs from one of those signal wires on the forester TCU. to "Slamngears5". the SVX 4EAT is identical, mechanically, to any other phase 1 4EAT. the only reason they fail more often is the massive torque put out by the EG33 combined with the substantial weight of the SVX. a used one will have more wear on it, but a rebuilt one will be no different.

the temp sensor for the gauge is a separate sensor entirely from the one for the ECU. couldn't tell you what color it is. never touched it.....

Just thought I'd post this, since the transmission just went out and the rust means it probably won't get fixed (that's 2 for us this year...). it's my Dad's. '94 Legacy GT wagon (yep, raised roof). Essentially a home-made first-gen Outback. stock 2.2 and 4.111 5MT BG Outback struts and springs WRX wheels with 205/60r16 tires t-leg front brakes how it looked when we got it 3 or 4 years ago. $350 on ebay we put about 100k on it since then.

faulty coolant temp sensor? thinking it's cold all the time, and therefore "choking" it too much when it's warm. history on the motor? did it come out of a known-working donor car? I'm just trying to narrow it down to whether it's something that would have developed as a result of the swap or not.

WOW!!! Excellent work. I can only imagine the headache of mounting the newer rear subframe up there. but it looks awesome! nice work on the fender flares! very subtle way of getting those tires covered.

the only other little parts you might need are from your car. look at my list again, clutch fork, speedo cable, shift linkage, crossmembers. You'd use all your Legacy stuff. Just have to fab something for the hi-lo shifter. there are 2 different style hydraulic-clutches. a push-type, and a pull-type. push-type works almost identically to the cable-style (in fact, the clutch kits are interchangeable). But, the pivot ball is in a slightly different place (less leverage for the hydraulic system), and there's a slave cylinder on the other end of the fork instead of a cable. These transmissions have the mount for the other pivot ball in it. It's just as easy as removing the old ball, and moving it to the other hole. and then grabbing a cable clutch fork, and bolting the cable mount to the side of the case. AFAIK. it's fairly easy. N/A 2.2 or smaller are all cable. 2.5 N/As are hydraulic push. and turbos are pull. But if you get the code off the bellhousing, you might be able to look it up. Here's a chart that lists push and pull seperately: http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart After 2003 or so, depending on the chassis (foresters were 03, imprezas/legacies 05). The 5MTs went to female splines on the front diff. 2003 WRX front axle: 2005 WRX front axle: There are removable stubs available from subaru for a reasonable price that snap into these transmissions like a 4EAT and give them male splines just like an older setup. so your axles will work. the plugs for the reverse and neutral switch wiring didn't change almost at all over the years, so they might plug right in. if not, it's extremely easy to swap the sensors around while you've got the transmissions out. your driveshaft will work with any AWD EJ transmission. not long ago there was talk about bringing a container of EJ D/Rs from NZ (?). He said they had a locking center diff. that was the first and only time I've heard of that, and he had no information....so I am only speculating. but if it's the EA FT4WD center diff, the transmission will be a bit shorter...so you'd probably need to add 2" to your driveshaft.

Just thought I'd start with....nope. There is an axle combination that would work for any 4.444 5MT I know of to work with BD WRX track width and hubs. heck, even the narrower non-BD-sedan axles work, as the track width is still within the usable travel of the inner joint. I'm assuming you're talking about a 5MT. not a 4EAT. what year is the transmission? There was some point around 2000 where they switched to an 8-bolt bellhousing. the only challenge that this would pose, is the newer transmission bellhousing would have a hole for the lower starter bolt (actually threads into the engine) instead of a stud. this leaves 2 options. run the starter with just the top bolt (works, not ideal but not terrible either), or tap some threads into the transmission case, and put a bolt in it. if there are male stubs sticking out of the transmission, and it's not a '93-'94 FWD impreza 5MT or EA, they have the same spline count. period. they didn't go to female splines until 2003 IIRC. shift linkage, driveshaft, and crossmember should be virtually identical and easily interchangeable. again, depending on the year, the forester transmission might have a speed sensor on the trans instead of the dash. if so, just unscrew the sensor, and thread in your cable. done. The ONLY issue you might have, is the clutch setup. if it was a 2.5 forester, it will have a hydraulic clutch, although (again....depending on the year. Seriously, crucial piece of information. Chassis code is not enough) even if it is, it should still be a push-type, in which case, move the pivot ball, and swap the fork, and you should be fine.

considering the original post was 6 YEARS ago, and the person who posted it has not logged in since. probably not.

Yep, but a bracket on the side of the trans to mount the cable to is easy. WAY easier than trying to retrofit a hydraulic clutch pedal assembly into an EA81. If it complicates the design too much, that's fine. we'll make do if/when we get going. But, it would make it more easily applicable into more cars.

would be nice if either one could be used. For those of us thinking of using this to tcase an older car, it'd be nice not to have to convert to hydraulic.

I see......hmmmm

well, if this holds true. no swapping or modifying of the pressure plate will be necessary. subaru pressure plate and subaru clutch fork = subaru throwout bearing. which means, if you need something better, get an upgraded pressure plate for a push-style subaru. done.

Sorry....done doing that. did it twice, and both times I spent more time on the phone trying to explain it than it would have taken to just do it myself on my own schedule. if you have questions, feel free to post them here and I'll offer my insight when I can, but that's about it. :-\ I just spent a few minutes looking over diagrams.....The only thing that I see that would cause an issue using a newer TCU is the "torque control" wires. The SVX only has one signal wire from the ECU, and the newer systems have 3 (torque control signal 1 and 2, and torque control cut signal). the chart says all these pins would read 5v....so I don't know what that means. Everything else would work just fine (TPS signal range is the same, tach signal could be modified, and all other sensors would not be effected by the swap).

Wow, I don't usually check the transplants section. first off, I HIGHLY doubt that you would be the first to SVX swap a forester. not to rain on your parade or anything, but it's not an uncommon swap into other platforms.....essentially identical project to an impreza swap. Next, what year is your forester? I don't see any reason why your TCU wouldn't work. most of the sensors are standalone. but I'll have to look for sure. Don't have time now, but I'll try to look later tonight. only concern is the rpm signal, as it's calibrated differently. but you can get a Tach Signal Divider that would correct that. just have to get your TCU signal after the Divider. I've done the wiring for probably 8 EG33 swaps, most into GC imprezas (which would be almost identical to your forester), but a couple Legacies. I even have an extra Tach Signal Divider here on my desk (I was planning on putting a 4-cyl digi dash in my XT6....but that isn't going to happen) A/C would be very difficult, but possible. with the EG in there, there isn't much room for radiator and fans, much less a condenser as well.....unless you aren't attached to your bumper. Also, as tempting as it sounds, I have heard specific negative reviews of ECUtune setups from a very reputable source. Save your money, IMHO.

no, it doesn't. the turbo transmissions are geared differently, so despite the 3.70 axle ratios, you'd be turning higher rpm in 5th. also, IMHO the FT4WD is awful. True AWD would be a drastic improvement, and worth the drop in mileage. But FT4WD is the worst of both worlds. I've put tens of thousands of miles on all 3 setups in many conditions (rally, ice racing, wheeling, daily driving, autocrossing), and will go out of my way to avoid FT4WD. convert the LSD to 3.9, and be done with it. easier, and better. swapping the whole rear suspension isn't bad either, I've done it many times. and using a Turbo donor, you'll gain a rear sway bar, which really helps keep the car planted on the road.

Awesome. I've got a project in the planning stages that might need one of these.....so I'll be watching this closely.