Numbchux

the engine wiring section for a '98 RS can be found here: http://northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html wiring will be the same, some wire colors will be a bit different.

just wanted to emphasize the "IF". I have used this method, but ONLY as a last resort. if it's a manual, put it in 5th, and set the parking brake. You should be able to easily break it loose with a breaker bar now. if it comes to bumping the starter. rest the breaker bar on the frame just in front of the battery. also, be sure to take steps to make sure the engine won't start. at the very least, un-plug the wire between the distributer and the ignition coil.

I did a clutch on my wagon a couple years ago. woke up at 10am, drove to Northern tool, bought an engine hoist, drove home, assembled it, pulled the engine, replaced the clutch and oil pan, put it all back together, took a shower and went to work at 5pm. And delivered in it all night. With help....yea. definitely.

EG is by far the biggest subaru motor. the radiator will need to be moved forward quite a bit. the EG33 barely fits in an XT6 engine bay, which is already a few inches larger than an EA82 one.

standard threads, not reverse.

yea, a gutted cat will do that. I love the way my old loyale sounds. borla header, and stock mid-pipe from a Cali-spec BD Legacy GT (3 cats, and a resonator). and then a turn-down so the exhaust wasn't pointed right at the DOJ boot....

VSS wire from the ECU. to the reed switch in the gauge cluster. Done.

yep, nothing new. tach and temp gauge are just signal wires. tach from the ECU (engine speed output), and temp straight from the engine. VSS should be in the speedo (I guess some EA81s don't have it....I don't know the pattern there). called a reed switch. does the speedo work? if the speedo works, and the odo doesn't, your gauge is F'ed. if none of it works, your cable is disconnected (in which case, the VSS won't work either).

thanks busy time of year, working on 4 more SVX swaps ....but I won't turn people away.

awesome! redline is 6500, so that fuel cut probably isn't even the pump.....Cool! on paper the EA82t pump would not be enough, glad to hear that's not the case in the reality. although I might look into a fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on it. wouldn't want it to be running lean

I was responding to bheinen about the RX drivetrain. I've never had a welded diff. and do not have a 3.9.

I don't have an LSD. but I've got an open 3.7 I'd let go.

tempting...had fun a couple years ago. that's the weekend between STPR and Nemadji II. anyone want to buy an RX trans or 5-lug swap? might pay for the trip....

They got the N/A 2.5 motor swapped into the WRX so they can run Open Light class this year. then got it cleaned up, and stickered up..... oh yea.....I'm crew chief this year

the biggest thing with the 1.8, is they do not have a knock sensor. so if you ever decide to upgrade, you're going to want to upgrade your ECU/wiring as well.

I would argue the point as to which is better. the only advantage I've seen, is more storage room in the car since there effectively aren't strut towers. also, look closely at the WRC08 cars. they are not multi-link..... But, one thing is for sure, there is far more aftermarket support for the modified macpherson setup. adjustable links/arms, struts, springs, coilovers etc. etc. also, I wouldn't recommend running the stock multilink rear shocks on an EA82. they are not designed to use a bushing between the shock rod and upper mount.....I removed it, and snapped that rod in about 1k miles. WJM did the same on his RX with the same results. Although there is a miata shock that is a direct bolt-in with coilover sleeve springs. full coilovers designed for the multilink setup can be used with the upper bushing. but again, your selection is very limited. better now that the imprezas share that platform, but you're still looking at either el cheapo coilovers, or uber expensive ones. Either way. like Gary said, you sound like you have a decent idea of what you're doing, and the means to do it. In which case you have nothing but support from me. I'm just offering my experience with building subarus for use in all kinds of motorsports to get you the best setup possible. I'm still un-sure of your reasoning for doing this, so I'm kinda shooting in the dark....but either way. Also, what are your plans for the front? If you're going to that kind of trouble to improve your geometry in the rear....you'll have a similar project in the front, or it will all be for nothing.

loyales don't have rear speakers. the mounts are in the rear doors for them, though.

anything's possible: IMHO, there aren't enough gains to justify the project. unless you have a lot of time, money, and donor cars to hack up.....and even then, I don't know why. if you're going to hack up the back of the car, and put in an entirely new suspension system, at least use the modified macpherson setup that's so much more common. then you'll have a ton of options for suspension setups.

I'm more interested in this....so it's AWD? what low range gears? what front diff?

hell yea. that frame you've built for it looks pretty wicked. Can't wait to see the end result!!

I don't know of any aftermarket ECU that can run a standard OBD diagnostics port. But they all have some way of communicating with a computer to monitor and adjust it. usually a Serial or USB cable. What are you trying to do?

Sweet! not having an 02 sensor must have been throwing it into limp mode as soon as it was hitting boost. which EA82t sensors are you using? I'm curious about that. very interesting that that worked.....

yep, pressure and flow ratings are almost the same. the turbo EJs require quite a bit more volume, but any N/A one will be fine.

for starters, I'm no expert. but I've done some CR calculating.... I think you are going to need to start with some math, and finding out exactly what ratios these combinations would yield. I've heard of people just filling the chamber with oil and measuring it. as far as I know, shaving the heads and using thinner gaskets will have the same (or very similar) effect on the compression. I think the best option, would be shaving the heads, using stock gaskets, and then using custom pistons to dial in your CR. I know there are companies that make custom pistons for the EJs (my buddy just got a set from CP pistons), but they make them unique to your exact bore measurements, valve reliefs, and CR. it seems that they could make them for a different motor......I dunno.

yea, 02 sensor would probably be a good idea....but I don't think it would cause the condition you have. only 3 things, I can think of, would cause it to fall on it's face like that. faulty knock sensor, pulling timing. faulty pressure sensor, sensing over-boost and cutting fuel. or insufficient fuel delivery. we know your fuel pump is rated for a fraction of the flow required for the engine, so I would wait to bash your head against the wall until you've solved that. you don't really need to hold out for the 255. unless you plan on some pretty serious mods. stock is 150 (which is about 40gph). here's one that would work very well with the stock motor for much less than the walbro: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3138/