Numbchux

I did this when putting a 4-cyl radiator in my XT6 last fall. it has held great since then. and yea, the '91 wiring will be virtually identical to the '92. you might noticed different plug shapes between the bulkhead and engine harness (the plugs by the battery), but the ECU pinout is the same, and the wires all do the same thing.

cool! But, I hope you either have oversized tires, or you don't spend any time on the freeway. I couldn't stand the ridiculously low gears on the freeway with the stock RX trans. I can't imagine converting it to 3.9! yikes!!!

depends what 1.8 you're talking about. all EJ series heads are interchangeable. so if you're talking about putting EJ18 heads on an EJ22, yes, it definitely will work. and it'll bump your compression up a bit (start running premium gas!). if you're talking about EA-series 1.8s.....no. no way.

sorry, I was kinda vague. I was just thinking about the wires at the EJ alt. and yea, if that's not hooked up, that's your problem. it needs a switched power source, doesn't NEED to be from anywhere special, although you might want to get your reference somewhere in the engine harness to make sure that stays at a nice comfortable voltage. in stock form, it ties into the ignition coil and a couple other power sources (fuel pump relay?). your idle problem might improve once the alternator is working. if things are getting low voltage, they may not work right. checking for leaks isn't a bad idea....but your symptoms do sound like fuel pump. the EA82t pump pushes a fraction of the volume compared to the EJ22t one.

http://www.efilogics.com/gallery/index.php?fldr=/2%20-%20EFI%20Cars%20and%20Motorsports/EFI%20Street%20cars/99%20Forester%20L glad to hear you got your hands on one, and fast! it's only been a few months since you talked about buying mine. what ratios (low and axle) are you running? also....holy strut extensions!! hope you spaced down the drivetrain to match, or that will chew through axles in a hurry.

awesome! looks like a clean swap, love the video....especially the last few seconds why did you pull the dash, though? yikes! alright, 1: the set screw probably won't effect the idle that much, it's just there to adjust the TPS calibration. it really doesn't open the plate almost at all, unless it's totally cranked down. Does it stay at 2k even once it's warm? that's not an impossible number for warm-up, but if it isn't coming down, that's not right. Could just be a sticking IAC valve. CEL codes? did it do that in the donor car? 2: check for power at the yellow wire. this should get a switched 12v for the VR. the black wire will be grounded if the yellow has power and the alt isn't charging (this is what controls the idiot lights). if these are correct, you might want to try a new alt (or having this one tested). 3: stock tstat is 180, IIRC. 200 isn't impossible if it's loaded, but not much more. I'd throw a new tstat at it. 4: EA82/t pump is rated for 95lph at 61-71psi, EJ22e for 80lph at 36psi, and EJ22t for 150lph @ 43psi. So, yea, you're probably getting plenty of pressure, so it's working fine when not under load, but as soon as you're opening the taps, there just isn't enough there.....

yes....yes they would be!! great work Austin! looks mean!

did you really read anything? the write-up that I spent months compiling clearly says: "You'll need a fuel pump from a Fuel Injected EA car (if yours isn't already), to supply the necessary fuel pressure." EA pumps are in-line, not in-tank. EJ ones are in-tank, and not designed to work the other way around, so they don't have a way to attach a line to them. an SPFI EA82 pump is plenty of pressure/volume for an N/A EJ22.

oh yea, wiring will be different. no plugs for the trans, and the plugs for the gauge cluster are *probably* different (like I said, they were in my loyale). you'll have to jumper the start interlock so it'll start (fool it into thinking it's in park or neutral all the time). if you want the reverse lights to work, you'll have to get a little creative. I don't think of those things, because I don't care . backup lights and neutral start switch (and low range/diff lock indicators for that matter) didn't work in my loyale. whatever, the important stuff worked axles are 100% interchangeable. all XT6s have 25-spline axle stubs. rear diff mount is the same, although ratio is definitely different (3.7 for the auto, 3.9 for the MT), so you will have to swap it. carrier bearing mount is there, no sweat.

what is the donor car? another '6? as long as it's an EA82t or XT6, the axles will work. if it's an EA82t, you won't have to swap the rear diff (XT6 4EAT is 3.7, as is the Ea82t FT4WDs) if the gauge cluster is like the standard Ea82s, the wiring for it will be quite different between them. when I did it in my loyale, I opted to just leave the auto cluster there. speed sensor is in the gauge. I've never had good luck taking the cable off the trans, so I just leave that attached and bring it with. that's about it.....looks like a good list.

which is definitely the cheapest full coilover you can buy. nice coilovers go for 2-3k. sweet ones are 5+..... Awesome work tex. can't see any flaws in the body work from the picture.....

I would bet, if you dropped it off at a body shop, and had them repair it....probably in the neighborhood of $2k. obviously it needs "new" hood, fender, bumper, and headlight at the very least. it'll probably need to go on a frame rack, as I bet the frame is tweaked. possibly radiator....who knows what's damaged under the hood. now, you might be able to find a shop that will pull the frame out, and you can do the rest on your own. some junkyard body panels and such, you might be able to fix it for $500-1k (the frame rack will be the majority of the cost here, with a connection, you might be able to get it done for a couple hundred).

my yakima setup originally came with some super long crossbars. there were pictures in the old photo gallery.....I probably still have them locally, somewhere. long story short: zzz

other way around. that's for using the EJ knuckles with the EA trans. he (thread-jacker with the '87) has an EA82 with an EJ trans. so he needs EA82t axles. Zap, pretty much the same as has been mentioned. XT6 rear hubs are the only hard part to get a hold of. if you're using the EJ trans (sounds like you are) you won't need a hybrid axle. But, you'll either need a shorter axle, or longer control arms..... GD. have you heard of the pipe trick for disassembling the outer CV? I keep meaning to find a pipe and try it on some of my spare subie axles:

You could start with the awesome list that was put together and posted in post #5 of the FAQ...

running blow-through MAF is pretty common. BUT, you have to be able to manually adjust your fuel trims. as the higher-pressure air will effect the sensor differently. It does mean that you can push more cfm through it before maxing out the sensor (another reason for doing it), but you have to be able to tune the ECU to compensate....

I only did it because my wagon used to be FWD, so there was no mounts for the carrier bearing. I tried to fabricate something, but the bearing failed pretty quickly. had a one-piece shaft made, and it lasted a long time.

much better option: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110400

Haha, just too cool: coolest justy ever!

yea, which is why you could just use the EJ adapter plate for the EA trans. Craig is talking about an adapter to mount the EG to the scout trans. which is not a bad idea.

I think that would be pushing it. the ER27 is tough on the 5-speeds. As always, it would depend on how you were driving it....but I think that you'd have to be pretty gentle.

not sure if/how it relates to the 81. but when I first did it in the '86, the gas tank would pressurize and spew a good amount of fuel out the vent line unless the gas cap was left open. I don't really have an explanation or solution.....I just drove it for awhile with the line plugged and cap loose, and then un-plugged the line. and after a few hundred miles, I was able to tighten the gas cap with no issues. AFAIK, dhise hasn't had any problems with it since. I know he got 32mpg on the way back to detroit, so I don't think it was leaking anywhere

the BG that I saw at Sno*Drift had 31s on it with 8" of lift and stock struts/springs and some cutting/bashing (needed more). you would definitely need 10-12" or so for 35s. it will have to be pretty much completely custom. you'll need to space the hub down away from the strut, to do this you'll need to put the bottom bolt on the strut through the top hole on the knuckle, and then put some lengths of 1/4" steel along the outsides with 3 holes in them to reinforce the whole assembly. And then finish it off with some ~1.5" wheel spacers, as that strut isn't going to fit inside the rim anymore. search this section for my thread entitled "BG on 31s" for some pretty detailed pictures of it.

officially awesome!! nice work.

that's officially over my head but it sounds like you're on the right track.