Numbchux

yea, which is why you could just use the EJ adapter plate for the EA trans. Craig is talking about an adapter to mount the EG to the scout trans. which is not a bad idea.

I think that would be pushing it. the ER27 is tough on the 5-speeds. As always, it would depend on how you were driving it....but I think that you'd have to be pretty gentle.

not sure if/how it relates to the 81. but when I first did it in the '86, the gas tank would pressurize and spew a good amount of fuel out the vent line unless the gas cap was left open. I don't really have an explanation or solution.....I just drove it for awhile with the line plugged and cap loose, and then un-plugged the line. and after a few hundred miles, I was able to tighten the gas cap with no issues. AFAIK, dhise hasn't had any problems with it since. I know he got 32mpg on the way back to detroit, so I don't think it was leaking anywhere

the BG that I saw at Sno*Drift had 31s on it with 8" of lift and stock struts/springs and some cutting/bashing (needed more). you would definitely need 10-12" or so for 35s. it will have to be pretty much completely custom. you'll need to space the hub down away from the strut, to do this you'll need to put the bottom bolt on the strut through the top hole on the knuckle, and then put some lengths of 1/4" steel along the outsides with 3 holes in them to reinforce the whole assembly. And then finish it off with some ~1.5" wheel spacers, as that strut isn't going to fit inside the rim anymore. search this section for my thread entitled "BG on 31s" for some pretty detailed pictures of it.

officially awesome!! nice work.

that's officially over my head but it sounds like you're on the right track.

the smaller 21 spline shaft is FWD only. I've used XT6 kits in 3 EA82s now. it works.

early '90s EJ speedos are mechanically connected to the trans with a cable, just like the EAs (after that, the sensor is mounted in the trans, and the gauge is electronic, but still unaffected by the TCU). and they also get the front speed sensor signal from the reed switch in the gauge, just like the EAs. my only point with the OBD II comment, is that the ECU looking for an EJ speed sensor signal was right on (as far as I could tell....there's some delay with the scanner I was using....) to what the EA gauge was telling it. But yea, if presslab had this issue and that was the resolution, then I'll assume it's correct.

XT6 pressure plate step height is different, making it lighter. just grab an XT6 clutch kit.

I'm still not wrapping my head around it. gear ratio and tire/wheel size shouldn't matter, as they are after the speed sensor. if you've got smaller tires than it thinks, it'll just think you're going faster than you are. I mean, my snow tires are substantially oversized, and I never had problems. I suppose it could be in the calibration at the gauge. as the AWD system works by comparing speeds at the 2 speed sensors, front (gauge) and back (on the trans). if the calibration were different at one of these, and not the other, that would confuse it. But a couple years ago, when I put the OBD II motor in an '86 wagon, you could plug a scanner into it, and the OBD II ECU knew how fast the car was going. and it was pretty accurate. I don't know. you sound like you have a pretty solid handle on the project, and are on the right track. Keep it up!!

Very cool. I was thinking about doing that with my '89 XT6....before it was totalled. I even have an EJ TCU and plugs here on the table next to me now. the different gear ratio doesn't explain why you don't have AWD. I know of guys who've swapped different ratio drivetrains without swapping TCUs (4.444 SVX. 3.9 legacy trans in place of a 4.111 impreza etc.).

Ah the joys of a swap cobbled together from numerous cars with unknown history. It could be many things, the ECUs are pretty tough to fry, but not impossible. If you've got a spare, try it. but I'd pin out every wire before buying one.

yea, looks like a turbo coupe....not an RX. so no, not full-time 4WD, and probably not a rear LSD.

Well...the car is home. under it's own power. got the old diff home yesterday, and pulled apart last night after work. the pinion is seized in the case. it won't spin, and I beat on it for awhile with my maul, and it didn't budge. I might put it on the press and see if I can't get it out....but I don't think it's coming out. Got this other 4.111 diff from a buddy from his Girlfriend's RS. the spider gears were quite trashed, but ring and pinion in good shape. so I pulled it apart, and put a new carrier in it. I opted for an open carrier, for a few reasons. 1: I would have been waiting on the LSD additive. and the case would have required grinding to get the LSD carrier in it, and the grinder was in the XT6.....10 miles away. So I went this morning and bought a quart of gear oil, and a tube of loc tite. finished assembling the diff. By girlfriend and I loaded up the Kia, and drove out there. Didn't take long to get the new diff in. Of course, the battery was dead. So we hooked up the jumper cables, and boy, that really put a lot of load on the kia. Oh crap.....I put them on the '6 backwards. Long story short, black fusible link and ECU fried. luckily I had spares of both....and after an extra trip home, was driving my repaired XT6 home. and it only cost me about $15 (for the gear oil and loc-tite).

yea, I went back after work last night, and pulled the rear diff out. it's dry and locked. so apparently I had a leak. Also the car is exactly 10 miles from home, and the basic AAA service only covers 5. so I'll be swapping in the new diff on the side of the road. yaaayyyy I got an RS rear diff from a buddy that the LSD in that is locked up. But it's 4.111 and the R&P are fine. so I'm going to swap in a carrier that uses bolt-in stubs, and I should be set. I'm not sure if I should try to use this LSD again though. I haven't had a chance to open it up and see what exactly failed, but I'm hoping it was the pinion bearings or something that failed, and the LSD carrier is still usable. Thoughts? if not, I have the open carrier that came out of that legacy diff, so I can use that.

yea. we've joked about the leaf blower thing. But they are really only designed to move a lot of air at essentially zero psi. as soon as there's back-pressure, it would just be useless.

Well....problem. the impreza diff I have here on the shelf is different. can't put stubs in it. splines inside the diff are different. I have another carrier here, that does work with the stubs, but the impreza has thread-in bearing retainers on the sides of the case, that I can't remove (which is why I got my hands on that legacy one that's in it). So....thoughts? I think I'm down to pulling the rear axles and driveshaft and dragging it home on a strap.

Driving home from work tonight, and something stopped spinning. I was driving about 60mph, and something locked. it was dark and raining, so no skidmarks to check. But, I felt no pull in the steering wheel, and the car started to drift sideways as it skidded, but I was able to countersteer and keep it pretty straight-ish. so I suspect both rears were locked and both fronts were spinning. once the car came to a stop, I was able to get it to drive backwards a foot or so, and then it would drive forward to get it out of the road. I made it about 20 feet down the road on the shoulder then before it seized again, at which point, I wouldn't move at all. Assuming my assumption was correct (let me know if you see any holes in the theory), the center diff was working correctly. Wheel bearing seems really unlikely, as it would lock just one wheel, which I don't think was the case. ditto: axle. Only things behind the center diff, that would still effect both rear wheels, are the transfer gears in the transmission, and rear diff itself. I pulled the transmission dipstick and in the light in the car, didn't see any metal flakes or anything. So I'm suspecting rear diff. Thoughts? My girlfriend is going to give me a ride out to it with my spare 4.111 rear diff in the morning, but she can't hang out to see if I'm successful. So I want to run these ideas by someone else..... Setup is: 1988 XT6. stock engine, and transmission case halves. '94 impreza shafts, gears, synchros, center diff, front diff, and center diff case. '94 legacy rear diff case/gears with an RX LSD rear diff in it.

your ECU probably isn't turning on. check and recheck all the power wires. all grounds should be made through the engine block. I have also heard of a bad crank angle sensor allowing the ECU to come on, but it won't prime the fuel pump. was this engine in known-running condition? is the CEL coming on?

Written by our driver:

would help to know wtf car you have :-\

:confused: that's odd.....OK.

shimming the pressure plate out from the flywheel will make it worse. you'll need to replace the flywheel to fix the problem.

OBD II has the plugs above the passenger side cylinder head. so if the plugs are over by the battery, you're fine. phase II wasn't until 1998 (?), so that's not the right term. dual port was still common on '95s, even though those were OBD II. so that's not a good indicator of OBD I. intake manifold is also pretty different for OBD I vs II.

Yes it does, your problem is elsewhere. the clogged and dirty radiator that was in my Loyale since it was built kept my EJ22 perfectly cool, even without ANY fan (as long as you're moving more than about 20mph). That radiator started leaking, so it had to be replaced. but I've done 2 EJ22 swaps using performance radiator all-brass Loyale rads with zero problems. both of them only using one fan. This is for daily driving, freeway, Autocross, ice racing (grill/bumper packed with snow....), hauling (the loyale has a trailer hitch!), etc.