Numbchux

I would bet, if you dropped it off at a body shop, and had them repair it....probably in the neighborhood of $2k. obviously it needs "new" hood, fender, bumper, and headlight at the very least. it'll probably need to go on a frame rack, as I bet the frame is tweaked. possibly radiator....who knows what's damaged under the hood. now, you might be able to find a shop that will pull the frame out, and you can do the rest on your own. some junkyard body panels and such, you might be able to fix it for $500-1k (the frame rack will be the majority of the cost here, with a connection, you might be able to get it done for a couple hundred).

my yakima setup originally came with some super long crossbars. there were pictures in the old photo gallery.....I probably still have them locally, somewhere. long story short: zzz

other way around. that's for using the EJ knuckles with the EA trans. he (thread-jacker with the '87) has an EA82 with an EJ trans. so he needs EA82t axles. Zap, pretty much the same as has been mentioned. XT6 rear hubs are the only hard part to get a hold of. if you're using the EJ trans (sounds like you are) you won't need a hybrid axle. But, you'll either need a shorter axle, or longer control arms..... GD. have you heard of the pipe trick for disassembling the outer CV? I keep meaning to find a pipe and try it on some of my spare subie axles:

You could start with the awesome list that was put together and posted in post #5 of the FAQ...

running blow-through MAF is pretty common. BUT, you have to be able to manually adjust your fuel trims. as the higher-pressure air will effect the sensor differently. It does mean that you can push more cfm through it before maxing out the sensor (another reason for doing it), but you have to be able to tune the ECU to compensate....

I only did it because my wagon used to be FWD, so there was no mounts for the carrier bearing. I tried to fabricate something, but the bearing failed pretty quickly. had a one-piece shaft made, and it lasted a long time.

much better option: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110400

Haha, just too cool: coolest justy ever!

yea, which is why you could just use the EJ adapter plate for the EA trans. Craig is talking about an adapter to mount the EG to the scout trans. which is not a bad idea.

I think that would be pushing it. the ER27 is tough on the 5-speeds. As always, it would depend on how you were driving it....but I think that you'd have to be pretty gentle.

not sure if/how it relates to the 81. but when I first did it in the '86, the gas tank would pressurize and spew a good amount of fuel out the vent line unless the gas cap was left open. I don't really have an explanation or solution.....I just drove it for awhile with the line plugged and cap loose, and then un-plugged the line. and after a few hundred miles, I was able to tighten the gas cap with no issues. AFAIK, dhise hasn't had any problems with it since. I know he got 32mpg on the way back to detroit, so I don't think it was leaking anywhere

the BG that I saw at Sno*Drift had 31s on it with 8" of lift and stock struts/springs and some cutting/bashing (needed more). you would definitely need 10-12" or so for 35s. it will have to be pretty much completely custom. you'll need to space the hub down away from the strut, to do this you'll need to put the bottom bolt on the strut through the top hole on the knuckle, and then put some lengths of 1/4" steel along the outsides with 3 holes in them to reinforce the whole assembly. And then finish it off with some ~1.5" wheel spacers, as that strut isn't going to fit inside the rim anymore. search this section for my thread entitled "BG on 31s" for some pretty detailed pictures of it.

officially awesome!! nice work.

that's officially over my head but it sounds like you're on the right track.

the smaller 21 spline shaft is FWD only. I've used XT6 kits in 3 EA82s now. it works.

early '90s EJ speedos are mechanically connected to the trans with a cable, just like the EAs (after that, the sensor is mounted in the trans, and the gauge is electronic, but still unaffected by the TCU). and they also get the front speed sensor signal from the reed switch in the gauge, just like the EAs. my only point with the OBD II comment, is that the ECU looking for an EJ speed sensor signal was right on (as far as I could tell....there's some delay with the scanner I was using....) to what the EA gauge was telling it. But yea, if presslab had this issue and that was the resolution, then I'll assume it's correct.

XT6 pressure plate step height is different, making it lighter. just grab an XT6 clutch kit.

I'm still not wrapping my head around it. gear ratio and tire/wheel size shouldn't matter, as they are after the speed sensor. if you've got smaller tires than it thinks, it'll just think you're going faster than you are. I mean, my snow tires are substantially oversized, and I never had problems. I suppose it could be in the calibration at the gauge. as the AWD system works by comparing speeds at the 2 speed sensors, front (gauge) and back (on the trans). if the calibration were different at one of these, and not the other, that would confuse it. But a couple years ago, when I put the OBD II motor in an '86 wagon, you could plug a scanner into it, and the OBD II ECU knew how fast the car was going. and it was pretty accurate. I don't know. you sound like you have a pretty solid handle on the project, and are on the right track. Keep it up!!

Very cool. I was thinking about doing that with my '89 XT6....before it was totalled. I even have an EJ TCU and plugs here on the table next to me now. the different gear ratio doesn't explain why you don't have AWD. I know of guys who've swapped different ratio drivetrains without swapping TCUs (4.444 SVX. 3.9 legacy trans in place of a 4.111 impreza etc.).

Ah the joys of a swap cobbled together from numerous cars with unknown history. It could be many things, the ECUs are pretty tough to fry, but not impossible. If you've got a spare, try it. but I'd pin out every wire before buying one.

yea, looks like a turbo coupe....not an RX. so no, not full-time 4WD, and probably not a rear LSD.

Well...the car is home. under it's own power. got the old diff home yesterday, and pulled apart last night after work. the pinion is seized in the case. it won't spin, and I beat on it for awhile with my maul, and it didn't budge. I might put it on the press and see if I can't get it out....but I don't think it's coming out. Got this other 4.111 diff from a buddy from his Girlfriend's RS. the spider gears were quite trashed, but ring and pinion in good shape. so I pulled it apart, and put a new carrier in it. I opted for an open carrier, for a few reasons. 1: I would have been waiting on the LSD additive. and the case would have required grinding to get the LSD carrier in it, and the grinder was in the XT6.....10 miles away. So I went this morning and bought a quart of gear oil, and a tube of loc tite. finished assembling the diff. By girlfriend and I loaded up the Kia, and drove out there. Didn't take long to get the new diff in. Of course, the battery was dead. So we hooked up the jumper cables, and boy, that really put a lot of load on the kia. Oh crap.....I put them on the '6 backwards. Long story short, black fusible link and ECU fried. luckily I had spares of both....and after an extra trip home, was driving my repaired XT6 home. and it only cost me about $15 (for the gear oil and loc-tite).

yea, I went back after work last night, and pulled the rear diff out. it's dry and locked. so apparently I had a leak. Also the car is exactly 10 miles from home, and the basic AAA service only covers 5. so I'll be swapping in the new diff on the side of the road. yaaayyyy I got an RS rear diff from a buddy that the LSD in that is locked up. But it's 4.111 and the R&P are fine. so I'm going to swap in a carrier that uses bolt-in stubs, and I should be set. I'm not sure if I should try to use this LSD again though. I haven't had a chance to open it up and see what exactly failed, but I'm hoping it was the pinion bearings or something that failed, and the LSD carrier is still usable. Thoughts? if not, I have the open carrier that came out of that legacy diff, so I can use that.

yea. we've joked about the leaf blower thing. But they are really only designed to move a lot of air at essentially zero psi. as soon as there's back-pressure, it would just be useless.

Well....problem. the impreza diff I have here on the shelf is different. can't put stubs in it. splines inside the diff are different. I have another carrier here, that does work with the stubs, but the impreza has thread-in bearing retainers on the sides of the case, that I can't remove (which is why I got my hands on that legacy one that's in it). So....thoughts? I think I'm down to pulling the rear axles and driveshaft and dragging it home on a strap.