Numbchux

EJ hubs are ENTIRELY different. you'd be better off machining ones from scratch than trying to make an ej one work. at which point, just buy the crossbred kit. backing plates, calipers and rotors can be used, but you need the XT6 hubs to complete the puzzle.

he said 1/4". and that it was extremely tough.

This is a '92 _______ Wagon. Legacy? Loyale? Turbo? crucial information. The responses above are only true if it's a legacy, and the outback suggestion would be the same as turbo legacy hardware. also, keep in mind....larger front brakes means larger wheels.

he said they had a little rubbing in the rear on the way out. so some trimming will be happening when they get home. with a 2.5 turbo and 4.444s....yea. probably had some pretty good power.

pics:

saw this at Sno*Drift, and talked to the owner/builder quite a bit. It was finished the day before the event, and driven across the lower peninsula of MI to the event without problems. Cheers to them! the recipe: '96 LGT wagon take the stock EJ25D, and add STi pistons and rods then add a TD04 and associated intake/exhaust/IC parts bolt it to the stock LGT 4.444 4EAT add some 6" subframe blocks some 6" strut top extensions and some plates to extend the strut-knuckle connection about 2" some 1.5" wheel spacers and some 31x10.5" tires as seen Jalopnik: http://jalopnik.com/5462681/my-dads-subaru-wagon-can-beat-up-your-dads-everything we took a ton of pictures, which should be up very soon.

It has been discussed before. as there is an ATV wheel pattern that is close to the subaru (4x135 or something). 2 things to consider. There isn't really any extra rim-to-brake clearance with the stock wheels. so stepping down in wheel size is going to be difficult. with the right shape, I think a 12" wheel might work. but no way on a 10". Also, a subaru is many times heavier than even the biggest, burliest of ATVs. While it hasn't really been tested, so it might work, you'd be pushing the limits a bit.

wow....this thread is almost useless. FACTS. Things I have done/tried/tested. An EJ transmission swap is not hard. I did a lot of leg work when I did mine, and could not find any factory driveshaft combination that would work. the carrier bearing mount in EJs is further back relative to the transmission than EAs. so all speculations about transmission lengths goes out the window. An EA82 5MT driveshaft is too long for an EJ trans in an EA82, and an EA82 AT one is too short for much spline engagement at the slip yoke. it would work, but for how long......I wouldn't trust it, even with just EJ22e power. Transmission mount is different, but that's just a matter of getting your hands on XT6 crossmembers, or some fabricating, the crossmembers are really almost identical to EA82 ones, but with holes drilled in them and a third piece bolted between them (which has to be swapped for an EJ one anyway). Phizinza started working on modifying the starter enough to work with an EJ flywheel when he did his brat years ago. he didn't end up going through with it, but you could find his thread and then more information about it. EJ flywheels are larger than EA82 ones, and will not fit in the EA82 transmission bellhousing as-is. Some grinding and starter relocation might make it possible.....but it's not an easy option. An EJ pressure plate will NOT fit on an EA82/ER flywheel. period. the 6 mounting bolts between them are much further apart on an EJ. And even then, you'll need a push-type PP to work with any EA82/ER clutch fork, which only improves your clutch options a bit from the EA (cheaper, but not much stronger). if holding power is what you're after, converting to hydraulic and push-style is the way to go. Or just drop the cash on a Spec EA82 clutch. An EJ clutch disc will work just fine on a 4WD EA82/ER. But upgrading the disc alone only effects how quickly it wears, not how much torque it can hold. Like I said, upgrading to a high-end WRX disc, but using a XT6 PP means it'll still be slipping all the time, but it won't wear as fast. I ran a high-quality Beck/Arnley clutch kit for an XT6 on an EA82 flywheel behind an EJ22e in my wagon. it was in rough shape after 40k miles, and I ALWAYS let the clutch engage fully before WOT. That was definitely near the limit of what that kit could hold. Educated Speculation: I have seen zero evidence to suggest that an EA82/ER 5MT has any different gears (as far as strength is concerned) than your average EJ 5MT (excluding the WRX STi RA stuff). The gears are no larger. the only way they could be stronger is if the material was treated better. The only difference is the low-range gearset, which does add some complexity.....the input shaft certainly isn't the weak link on a single-range trans.....The rear transfer gears look a bit beefier in the FT4WD setup, but again, not really the weak link unless running RWD. From what I've seen standard EJ 5MTs hold up to, ~225 ft/lbs is probably about as much torque as the gears can hold up to, even if used carefully. IMHO, any effort to get a clutch in there to hold that much is useless.... From what I remember, there are 2 cars that ran an EJ20t with an EA82 PT4WD D/R 5MT. one with an EJ20H (early twin-turbo), and the other was Albie's, with an EJ205 (USDM WRX). Both were lifted wagons with boggers. both were used hard in the mud. and both saw catastrophic drivetrain failure at one point or another.

well, a 20mm wider tire would only be 10mm closer to the strut (and you've already got 6+ clearance to work with). that would easily be achieved from a little camber adjustment. another vote for zero tire flex at the top. I've got about 1 mm of clearance between the shocks and my snow tires in the back of my XT6. no problems at all.

Spec clutches lists aftermarket clutch kits for EA82 subarus....but they're horrendously expensive ("Stage 1" is twice what a reasonably priced new, aftermarket unit costs). And have no torque ratings, just "Stage 1", "Stage 2+", "Stage 5" etc. I have no idea how much power these would hold, how hard they grab (how usable daily-driven), etc. But for that money you could convert to an EJ-series transmission and still have some left over AND a choice of clutch setups.

I think it was theoretically an option on 5MT XT6s.....but I've never seen/heard of one.

great. so you'll have a sweet disc that can take the heat of slipping all the time. since the clamping force of the pressure plate is what determines how much torque the clutch can hold. I highly doubt an XT6 setup can hold more than 200 ft/lbs, certainly not for long. And that's well within the limits of a 5MT.

all EJ22 ECUs with that plug are the same pins, except the '95s.

http://numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1996%20impreza/PIN_VOLTAGE_CHARTS.PDF easy. same concept as the OBD I ones, just layed out differently. track down the wires you need and strip out the rest.

sure it can. as long as you don't drive like a nut-case (which is how stock WRXs break their stock trannies). the strength of subaru trannies is entirely dependent on driving style, since they get a ton of traction (AWD). if you're smart with the happy-pedal, it'll probably last a long time. honestly, you'll be hard-pressed to find a clutch for an EA82 trans that will hold enough torque to worry about blowing up the trans.

This!! I haven't run a locker/welded diff in a subaru. But have had substantial experience in other vehicles. I did have a clutch-type LSD in my lifted '88 for a couple years. I always said the best way to think of it, is once you're teetering on 2 wheels, an open diff means you have zero forward power. When there's no resistance on the other wheel, an LSD will transfer about as much power as a person pushing on the back of the car. Ever been hung up, teetering, and had a buddy get out and push? Yea, just like that. obviously, in that situation a locked diff will transfer 100% of the torque. of course, that's a lot of torque to be put through one corner, and when the suspension at that one corner is compressed, the CVs aren't the weak link. the diff stubs are.

yep, they're the same. the only issue you might run into is the center hole of the ring gear is sometimes a different size. I know I wasn't able to get a 3.7 ring gear onto a 3.9 diff. So you might run into that trying to put a 4.111 gear onto a 4.444 diff (if that's what it was originally for). I just put an RX LSD into a '94 legacy 4.111 diff with almost no difficulty.

I don't know. not sure what you mean by that. But, you have dual port. single port just has one port on each head. Which doesn't surprise me, the '95 2.2s are kind of goofy, and have dual port heads.

what? yea, something isn't right. the gauge reads resistance to ground. it should peg to max when grounded....

I don't know EA81s at all. But an EJ 5MT is about 2" longer than an EA82 one. width is the same. tranny mount is different, and a bit further back.

something is definitely not right. I'm surprised it even runs without that hooked up. as you mentioned, the diode is for a different circuit entirely. so it shouldn't effect it. the diode allows the ECU to shut off the main relay if it needs to (never seen it happen....but it's called the Self-shutoff control....). In the swap on my Loyale, I completely removed the diode. hooked the main relay up to the switched source from the car, and then gave the ECU switched power sources where it needed it. worked great for many years (and still is working). Where are you getting your constant 12v source for the backup power? have you tested it to make sure it's all of 12v? have you checked all the grounds at the ECU to make sure you're not getting too much resistance.

Every time I've parted cars out, I remove the exhaust and front suspension, then un-bolt the transmission xmember. Then I lower the car until the engine xmember is on the ground, then disconnect everything from above. Then you can remove the nuts that attach the crossmember to the framerails and lift the body up. You do have to get the body up quite high to clear the engine, but it doesn't weigh much at that point, so it's not too bad. a stack of tires on either side of the transmission make good sturdy supports. Like this: When I parted out a Toyota 4Runner last year, I pulled everything as an assembly. Cutting the upper radiator support out with a sawzall made things muuuuuch easier. I'm sure it would help on a subaru too, but I bet it would be possible without. We put an engine and transmission in a turbo legacy last winter as an assembly....and it worked pretty well.

very cool idea! can't wait to see the result of this! maybe throw some 4.7:1 gears in that tcase while it's out.

no, the subaru ones are machined in and not designed for replacement. They're such low angle, they don't fail very often. But yea, a good driveline shop can do it. The local shop here in town quoted me about $30 parts + labor each.

Just thought I would emphasize this, as I would definitely argue that statement.