Numbchux

You do have to use some brain matter while operating them. yea, if you're not hanging onto them, they'll go pretty crazy. but I would not, for a second, call it any less safe than a floor/bottle jack on enough lumber to get a lifted subaru off the ground. ESPECIALLY offroad, where you don't have a stable place to put a jack.

nope, "wider" being front-to-back. so the sway bar is an inch or so further away from the control arms. I would assume, since leading rods are interchangeable between '6s and EA82s, and ditto with driveshafts. that the control arms are in the same place relative the rest of the car. but the sway bar is just a bit further forward. so when you put a '6 sway bar on an EA82, the sway bar link ends up angled back a bit, and then the bend in the bar touches the control arm. the setup on my wagon rubbed there, actually rubbing a noticeable notch in both control arm and sway bar.

check out Jibs's brat. Those look like stock EJ 14s. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104738 I ran some 17x8 +48s on my EA82 without any major clearance issues (front tires would rub the frame rail at full lock....but only just).

really pretty self-explanatory. my old '85 wagon. torn outer CV boot. joint had been binding a bit for awhile. Went mudding in it one day, lots of nasty, swampy, dirty water splashing up the windshield. next day, I drove into town to the MNSubaru meet, and as I was leaving, the joint snapped. I dropped it in 4WD and continued on. That night I did a brake stand in front of a buddies house, and then we went off to do some donuts. steering wheel full-lock, floored it, horrible sounds and the ebrake on that corner locked up. got out the flashlight, and yea, the axle shaft had caught the cable. pulled the axle out, drove on for about 5k miles after that before I parted out the car.

me too. just taking up space.

they will go soooooooo long at stock height. they will dry out, click, bind, pull, make noise, and not break for thousands of miles. the outer joints have a bit more strain on them than the inners (and will hold less grease in them without the boot), so they will fail a bit quicker. but you've still got a long way to go. if you go through a swamp today, though. they'll probably break tomorrow (go ahead.....ask me how I know ). worst case scenario? it breaks. coast to a stop, pop it in 4WD, drive on in RWD. yawn. just know that if it's an outer joint, at full lock the shaft can pop out of the joint and get caught up in your brake lines and such (so....don't try to whip donuts in you're newly RWD wagon until you get the broken half out of there.......again, ask me how I know ). carry a punch and hammer. if it breaks, jack up the car, pop out the spring pin, pull out the shaft/inner joint (you'll have to turn the wheel to full lock to get it loose without disassembling the suspension), drive on. BUT! a new CV boot kit is about $10. 2 of them per axle. You're axle is still well worth saving (assuming it's still a subaru one). spend the $20 now to return your axle to new. or spend $50+ later to have a crappy remanufactured axle that will just fail again in 6 months (lifetime warranty = it will fail often until you get fed up and spend the money on a decent one).

yep. for a side-of-the-road repair, I carried a small floor jack and a bunch of junks of wood. usually a couple chunks of 4x4 of decent size to put under the jack. and then a number of pieces of 2x4 to put between the jack and the car. for offroad. hi-lift. (see the period? ), I have a Northern Tool knockoff of the hi-lift design. I love it. used it on the subarus, and the 4runner. just have to have a place to jack from (stock bumpers aren't great, but will work. preferably some nice steel bumpers).

First off....the FrankenWagon was swapped back to stockish (still EJ22, and still 5MT and 4WD swapped. but 4-lug, drum brakes in the back, etc.) in the last month or so. and last monday, went to it's new home. so a little photo tribute to it: Goodbye old friend :cool: about a month ago, an '88 XT6 popped up on CL in Crystal. Thanks to the Crew Chief for our Rally Team for sending me the link shortly after that. I told the guy I was making arrangements to come get it the following sunday (3 weeks ago, or so). I had my dad call on Thursday to try to go look at it in person.....only to find out the guy had just sold it. He told me he'd give my phone number to the kid who bought it for the $800 being asked. original ad listed it as having a clunk in the transmission, and needed a fuel pump. kid bought it, replaced fuel pump and a number of rusted out fuel lines, drained/refilled gas tank, and new battery. went for a test drive, and a brake line burst....and the transmission was worse than he thought. so last sunday he called me. so, last Friday we drove out to his place near Menomonie, WI, poked around, and bought it for $740. That night, I pulled some brake lines of similar lengths, and identical fittings from my parts wagon, and replaced the bad section. Saturday I got plates/tabs, washed it at work, and took a picture: It has most of a rare Kaminari body kit on it. looks like at some point, it hit a snowbank or something relatively soft. as the fog light on one side is missing, the headlight cover on that same side is black, and the fiberglass kaminari front lip is missing. But no signs of structural damage. For those that don't know, here's what a fully-kitted car looks like: 2nd gear synchro's are pretty much shot. but it doesn't make any noises in other gears. So I'm going to pull this trans and drop some impreza internals into it (including the VLSD center diff!)

I guarantee that it says EJ22 on the tag on the strut tower. which almost certainly means it still has the 2.2 ECU and wiring in it. so regardless of what shortblock someone threw in there at one point, still think of it as a 2.2 from the wiring standpoint. since you're doing wiring anyway. do it right, and use a standalone. you can get a used Link LEM for $500 or less if you look around. And there are other companies that make simple ECU systems that will allow you to get the most out of your motor without sacrificing reliability. The stock ECUs are pretty good at adjusting the fuel trims to compensate for extra air, right up until the injectors are maxed out. But you won't have any timing control. and that's what will make or break your reliability.

found some measurements in the FSMs. looks like all 5MT front driveshafts (EA and EJ) are about 25", +/- ~1/2". measured from the center of the u-joints. So even if I could put the EA82 bracket on an EJ shaft, it probably wouldn't solve the problem. some other numbers. from tip of the slip yoke to the flange, an EA82 PT4WD 5MT driveshaft is 28.5". the AWD tailhousing, from where the center case meets the tranny case to the end of the output is 14.25". the RX FT4WD housing is 11.5". so I need to add about 2.75" to my driveshaft to make this work......awesome.

just compared, and the EJ VLSD tailhousing is definitely longer than the EA locker housing. so in order to run the VLSD, I'll have to use a shorter driveshaft....I'd rather not have mine modified....but before I drop some cash on a junkyard driveshaft, I'd like to have an idea of whether it would work. so....EJ, 5MT driveshaft. I need the length of just the front section, from the end of the slip yoke, to the flange behind the carrier bearing. also, a measurement from somewhere on the bearing/bracket to one end would be great.

a throttle body spacer increases the volume of air between the butterfly valve in the throttle body and the combustion chamber. I honestly don't understand the physics behind it beyond that. peak hp gain is minimal (2-4hp). But it yields a noticeable shift in the power band to lower rpms. I did also notice a slight increase in highway mileage (1-2mpg) pretty consistently after installing it. http://groupa-performance.com/PR_throttle_body_spacer.html http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/throttle-body-spacer-installed-16369/ FYI, the group A one pictured is the same one I have. it is not a perfect fit for early 2.2s. the center hole and mounting holes are perfect, but the 2.2 TB has a small chamber coming off of it that extends beyond the side of the spacer and will leak. I bought an extra gasket, and cut a piece of sheet aluminum to the shape of the TB, and sandwiched it between 2 gaskets on the TB side of the spacer, and it hasn't leaked a bit since. knock it all you like. I have one. I noticed gains. Mine is not for sale.

if you're going into water. you need to be able to disable your fan. so no, offroaders don't prefer mechanical fans. the extra resistance from the water will bend the plastic fan blades.....right into your radiator. a fan also throws water/mud around the engine bay.

just thought I'd bump this up. was changing the fluids in the new '6 today. and had a standard EA82 jacking plate on the ground nearby. held it up, and sure enough. the XT6 crossmember is probably about an inch wider than the EA82 one. So the sway bar is definitely further forward compared to the control arms.

I helped a buddy make one for an EJ. it's not difficult. get a chunk of steel or aluminum the thickness you want. grab a drill and a dremel, and go to town. then grab some longer bolts and you're set. yea, the one I have is pre-made...but they're not a complicated piece.

^we're not talking about EJs. as they're commonly available for EJs, and dyno graphs to prove the difference are just as easy to come by. I had one on the 2.2 in my wagon. I intend to run it AND phenolic spacers on my supercharged motor. a spacer's effect definitely does differ from one engine to the other. some engine love having really short intake runners (ITBs), EJ subies seem to be among those that benefit (well...for those of us that like some down-low grunt) from some extra volume between the TB valve and combustion chamber. I have not heard of it done on an EA82. but it's a fairly simple thing. and it can't hurt. I say do it!

welcome. you have a lot of research to do. all the information you seek is abundantly covered here. write-up and others here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm only thing I will comment on now, is that a body lift is definitely not necessary for an engine swap.

well....he should drop it all in an EJ D/R case for that. but yea.....pretty sweet.

a: did you make sure you have vacuum to them? double check the lines from the engine to the accumulator on the passenger side strut tower. b: don't mess with strings or anything. if you've got vacuum to the switch, and they don't switch, it is the switch. pull it out, and go to an auto parts store, and buy a vacuum "T" fitting. with some experimenting, you can have it always on Heat and Defrost. done!

that is news. SWEET! that will simplify my project this week yea, looks like only 04-05. but my chart only goes to 05.... as long as the cut on the auto pinion gear is at the same angle....it should work. actually, that pinion shaft looks a lot closer to the MT version than I thought it did! cool! I'll be watching this closely.

no I don't. I offer the service of stripping your harness. I will do this on any 2001 or older subaru harness for the same price, but you still have to provide a donor. do it right, grab your donor harness and stuff from a 2.5, and be done with it. or, if you plan on modding, and really want to get the most out of it. grab a standalone.

not really news the only thing I don't think has been confirmed/denied, is if an EJ pinion shaft will work with an EA output shaft (hollow one). what year outback trans do you have? in all the decent gearing charts I could find, the only US cars to get 4.444s are the larger tire turbo cars (FXT, OBXT, Baja turbo). also, all EJ 5MTs have a viscous center. actually, all subaru center diffs have some sort of traction device, be it a locker or viscous LSD. anyway, a 1.6 with 4.444 would be pretty sweet. my toyota only has a 30.5:1 crawl ratio (auto), so you're getting close.

^hehe, I was just going to say, "Infinitely". a 2.5 would get you the 160ish hp you seek without any trouble. the biggest difference between the 2 is the torque curve. I used to wind my EA82s out to redline EVERY shift. and I'm sure an EA82t is the same way. I shift my Ejs at 4k or less all the time except on the track. as there just isn't any need for it. but yea, slap 5-6psi of boost at a 2.2, and you'll have much more power than your Ea82t. the ONLY challenge, is management. specifically ignition timing. the logic modules in the EJ ECUs are very good at adjusting fuel trims, but they won't pull timing. either way, if you're going to nit-pick the last 20hp or so between a 2.2 and your Ea82t. grab an OBD II engine. they put out better power. the ECUs are smarter still, much more responsive to mods.

also. other way around. RX pinion gear is shorter than the legacy one. legacy output shaft and pinion gear: and assembled: extending the pinion to reach the locker is not going to be easy.

yea, '95 is hard to predict. most are dual-port. but I have seen a few with single. but yea, all '96+ 2.2s had single port. I have never, ever, seen an exception.