Numbchux

not any more than a PT4WD trans. the transfer gears will be strained, but as long as you don't drive like a total nutcase, it'll work. the locker is not the weak link. I ran my RX trans for about 8k miles in FWD (only had the front half of the driveshaft). I've put about 30k on it since then, locker still works great!

well, the stock springs are 2.5" ID. 12" long 250lb/in is a nice upgrade for a wagon. I've purchased a couple sets from ground-control for my cars. was a little on the stiff side for the XT6, but perfect on the wagon before I switched to miata hardware. I'd say if you could get something in ~250 lb/in in the same un-weighted length that you've got now, you'd be in business.

I don't know about that. you can get an EA82 teetering on 2 wheels, and still open/close all 4 doors just fine. can't do that in a jeep but yea, I love a doorless subie!

lol @ those of you who are fooled yea, Phiz did that. bobbed the front AND rear, and lifted it more than it really was (you can see where the ground was copied under the car). http://offroadingsubarus.com/bobbed_brumby.html original: chopped:

yep, yep. I wasn't too clear. I meant the EJ axles can fit in place of an EA82. I'm not hopeful about an EJ axle working in an EA81.

yea, and EJ axles are a hair longer than EA82. they work (for some of us.....although Noah had some issues....ended up lengthening the control arms), but it's close.

you'd have to cut and re-weld the flanges, as they'd be 90 degrees off...and I don't think the crossover would clear the oil pan. would be easier to weld up a new system, you could probably re-use the stock header, and just make a new up-pipe that relocates the turbo.

yea, it'll run. but it won't have any power (N/A compression EA82s only have like 90. a turbo compression one without the turbo.....yea). you can relocate it. wouldn't be too difficult to fabricate some exhaust tubing and oil/coolant lines to put it wherever you need it.

is it a standard EA82 bar? or an XT6 one. I've got clearance issues between the XT6 sway bar and XT6 control arms on my loyale. and it's lowered about 3".

I 100% guarantee that older toyota pickup lugs have a wider thread pitch than the subarus. subarus use a 12x1.25, and toyotas IIRC are 12x1.00 but you should be able to find some lug nuts with a "shank" style seat in a 12x1.25 pitch pretty easily.

now that you mention the HVAC differences, I see it too. which means it's an '85-'86. which means it could be PT4WD D/R. I know the '85-'86 RXs had a 3.7 PT4WD 1.2:1 D/R.

I can tell you for a fact that no EJ-series subaru front caliper bracket will bolt to your knuckle. you *might* find a newer EJ caliper that will bolt to the EA caliper bracket.

I don't think that would be quite enough. I've already done that (fan relocation) in my loyale, and barely have 2" of space to spare. and the difference in engine size is +2". although, something just occurred to me. the EJ22 crank pulley has substantial offset (sticks out a good 3/4" beyond the head of the crank bolt), whereas the EZ30 looks like the bolt sticks out beyond anything else (I don't have an EZ crank pulley....so I'm just basing this off pictures). Take that into account, and you're back to 1.5" or less total difference.

on kingbobdole's XT6? stock XT6 rad and fans. alright....I got restless. 1990 EJ22e, bellhousing to tip of the crank. ~14.75" 2005 EZ30DR, ditto. ~16.75" I have pretty much exactly 2" of clearance between the crank pulley and radiator in my loyale (1992 EJ22e). tried to measure the engine bay, but I was using the XT6 as the light source...so it was kinda hard. XT6 vs loyale looks to be about 3-4" shorter. so yea, I'd move the radiator a bit for clearance. but it's not an interference fit.

wrong as far as I know (been awhile since I heard the number) the EZ30D is about an inch and a half longer than an EJ22. There's probably an inch and a half of room (probably 2-3 inches) between the crank pulley on my EJ22 and my stock EA82 radiator in my loyale. tomorrow, (if I remember), I'll do some measuring. I've got a couple EJ22s, and an '05 EZ30DR shortblock. they're not like the ER27 and EG33, which are just an EA82/EJ22 with 2 more tacked on, and therefore are quite a bit longer. the EZs have the cylinders closer together, and use a timing chain instead of belt to save space. kingbobdole's car. an EZ30 in an XT6. this is how much space there is: with fans: wiring is a hair trickier than your average OBDII setup, but if you can do a late '90s EJ22, you can do an EZ30D. all EGs and EZs are interference.

hmmmm..... the lighting isn't perfect in the original (much of the body and tire are in shadow), so it isn't as good as it could be.....but it's a start. once I get one done that I really like, I'm going to shrink it, laminate it, and put it in my wallet in front of the check card

doesn't matter what color it starts with, as it'll be dark green when I'm done. that first picture might work wonderfully.

I need motivation. So I want to photoshop an RX to look how I hope to build one. So I'm looking for a picture to start with. Must be an an RX with body kit and wing installed. Must be at least 1024x768, preferably larger. Some nice scenery would be sweet it'll be something like this, only in coupe form:

http://www.frozenrotors.com offers a selection of slotted, drilled, and cryo treated rotors for EA82s (listed as XT coupe....but we all know it'll work on other EA82s) and XT6s. I'll be getting some stuff from them, as soon as I figure out what brake setup I'll be using :-\

Yep. the throwout bearing doesn't need to be a snug fit on the input shaft. as long as it seats properly on the pressure plate and clutch fork.

if you're rock crawling, and will never be exceeding ~10mph. the diesel you're talking about would work wonderfully. but if you EVER plan to drive it on the road. even just down the street to fill up the tank. 16hp isn't going to do it. also, if you ever have a hillclimb, or anything else that requires momentum, you'll be screwed. or, if you are ever in a situation where you have to clean the tires, again, screwed. I really don't think you'd be happy with THAT diesel. now, if you were talking about a '70s or '80s VW diesel 4-cyl. where we're talking about 50-60hp and 100-120 ft/lbs. yea, that'd be pretty slick. you'd be wishing you had more poop occasionally.....but most of the time it'd be pretty sweet. But you're talking about LESS peak torque, just 1k rpm sooner. IMHO, at stock subaru gearing, 1500 rpms isn't low enough.

that is gorgeous!

^I don't know all the details, but I can offer this. the borla headers, which have a pipe going around in front of the motor, don't hang down any further than the oil pan. so they will fit with any skidplate. from my brief glance at the newer ones, I suspect the same is true. if it safely clears the oil pan, it'll probably clear the exhaust. also, '96+ 2.2 heads have one exhaust port on each. all other EJ-series motors are dual port. dual port headers are interchangeable.....single-port are different. But both of yours should be dual-port.

can't wait to see what you do about the axle/control arm "issue"!

no, he's just saying get your practice on the common part. would hate to start with a rear disc hub, screw it up, and have a hell of a time finding a new one.