Numbchux

is it a standard EA82 bar? or an XT6 one. I've got clearance issues between the XT6 sway bar and XT6 control arms on my loyale. and it's lowered about 3".

I 100% guarantee that older toyota pickup lugs have a wider thread pitch than the subarus. subarus use a 12x1.25, and toyotas IIRC are 12x1.00 but you should be able to find some lug nuts with a "shank" style seat in a 12x1.25 pitch pretty easily.

now that you mention the HVAC differences, I see it too. which means it's an '85-'86. which means it could be PT4WD D/R. I know the '85-'86 RXs had a 3.7 PT4WD 1.2:1 D/R.

I can tell you for a fact that no EJ-series subaru front caliper bracket will bolt to your knuckle. you *might* find a newer EJ caliper that will bolt to the EA caliper bracket.

I don't think that would be quite enough. I've already done that (fan relocation) in my loyale, and barely have 2" of space to spare. and the difference in engine size is +2". although, something just occurred to me. the EJ22 crank pulley has substantial offset (sticks out a good 3/4" beyond the head of the crank bolt), whereas the EZ30 looks like the bolt sticks out beyond anything else (I don't have an EZ crank pulley....so I'm just basing this off pictures). Take that into account, and you're back to 1.5" or less total difference.

on kingbobdole's XT6? stock XT6 rad and fans. alright....I got restless. 1990 EJ22e, bellhousing to tip of the crank. ~14.75" 2005 EZ30DR, ditto. ~16.75" I have pretty much exactly 2" of clearance between the crank pulley and radiator in my loyale (1992 EJ22e). tried to measure the engine bay, but I was using the XT6 as the light source...so it was kinda hard. XT6 vs loyale looks to be about 3-4" shorter. so yea, I'd move the radiator a bit for clearance. but it's not an interference fit.

wrong as far as I know (been awhile since I heard the number) the EZ30D is about an inch and a half longer than an EJ22. There's probably an inch and a half of room (probably 2-3 inches) between the crank pulley on my EJ22 and my stock EA82 radiator in my loyale. tomorrow, (if I remember), I'll do some measuring. I've got a couple EJ22s, and an '05 EZ30DR shortblock. they're not like the ER27 and EG33, which are just an EA82/EJ22 with 2 more tacked on, and therefore are quite a bit longer. the EZs have the cylinders closer together, and use a timing chain instead of belt to save space. kingbobdole's car. an EZ30 in an XT6. this is how much space there is: with fans: wiring is a hair trickier than your average OBDII setup, but if you can do a late '90s EJ22, you can do an EZ30D. all EGs and EZs are interference.

hmmmm..... the lighting isn't perfect in the original (much of the body and tire are in shadow), so it isn't as good as it could be.....but it's a start. once I get one done that I really like, I'm going to shrink it, laminate it, and put it in my wallet in front of the check card

doesn't matter what color it starts with, as it'll be dark green when I'm done. that first picture might work wonderfully.

I need motivation. So I want to photoshop an RX to look how I hope to build one. So I'm looking for a picture to start with. Must be an an RX with body kit and wing installed. Must be at least 1024x768, preferably larger. Some nice scenery would be sweet it'll be something like this, only in coupe form:

http://www.frozenrotors.com offers a selection of slotted, drilled, and cryo treated rotors for EA82s (listed as XT coupe....but we all know it'll work on other EA82s) and XT6s. I'll be getting some stuff from them, as soon as I figure out what brake setup I'll be using :-\

Yep. the throwout bearing doesn't need to be a snug fit on the input shaft. as long as it seats properly on the pressure plate and clutch fork.

if you're rock crawling, and will never be exceeding ~10mph. the diesel you're talking about would work wonderfully. but if you EVER plan to drive it on the road. even just down the street to fill up the tank. 16hp isn't going to do it. also, if you ever have a hillclimb, or anything else that requires momentum, you'll be screwed. or, if you are ever in a situation where you have to clean the tires, again, screwed. I really don't think you'd be happy with THAT diesel. now, if you were talking about a '70s or '80s VW diesel 4-cyl. where we're talking about 50-60hp and 100-120 ft/lbs. yea, that'd be pretty slick. you'd be wishing you had more poop occasionally.....but most of the time it'd be pretty sweet. But you're talking about LESS peak torque, just 1k rpm sooner. IMHO, at stock subaru gearing, 1500 rpms isn't low enough.

that is gorgeous!

^I don't know all the details, but I can offer this. the borla headers, which have a pipe going around in front of the motor, don't hang down any further than the oil pan. so they will fit with any skidplate. from my brief glance at the newer ones, I suspect the same is true. if it safely clears the oil pan, it'll probably clear the exhaust. also, '96+ 2.2 heads have one exhaust port on each. all other EJ-series motors are dual port. dual port headers are interchangeable.....single-port are different. But both of yours should be dual-port.

can't wait to see what you do about the axle/control arm "issue"!

no, he's just saying get your practice on the common part. would hate to start with a rear disc hub, screw it up, and have a hell of a time finding a new one.

repairs have begun timing looks to have jumped a bit. hopefully no engine damage - it wasn't making bad sounds when we turned it off so fingers crossed

why is that weird? when we did it on my buddy's brat, we were going to just get 16 for the brat. but nobody locally had any in stock. One NAPA store poked around in their books though, and found one with the same dimensions (thread pitch/diameter, and base diameter) but longer than stock. so we used those, and got open-ended nuts. then carefully measured the base of the stud, and got a bit 1/64th smaller. we weren't looking for anything too precise, as we were planning on spot-welding the studs to the hub anyway....

yep, GD is correct. what you saw was a turbo header.....not applicable. BUT, any dual-port N/A subaru header will fit. and there are options. borla makes an unequal-length (and not just unequal, but tuned, primaries are exactly double the length on one side than the other) header. there are a couple companies that make knockoffs for much cheaper. I have one on my wagon with a '92 2.2 legacy motor. sound awesome! I think I might have gotten a slight bump in low-end torque, but definitely sacrificed some power on the top end. there are also a couple companies that make equal-length headers. MRT and OBX come to mind. these will yield genuine power gains, but at a sacrifice in sound (more high-pitched....kinda kills that wonderful subaru rumble).

+1

gearing, lockers, power, skidplates, axle gusset(s), full-floating rear hubs , steering, etc. if money were no object, I see many things I would do differently. But that really would be ridiculously expensive and time-consuming. I love it as-is, but you can bet there will be upgrades

Had another rally yesterday. in the Nemadji state forest again. 1st 2 events there went very well. Even took 3rd overall at the last one. But, some overconfidence, and a couple other mistakes meant that carl went into a corner way too hot, less than a mile into the first stage of the event, and rolled the car 3 times. you could see, clear as day, the indents where the tires hit each time. our Crew chief paced off the distance from the last tracks to where the car landed (the car was definitely not on the ground at the time....grass wasn't even pushed over), and it was about 30 feet :shock: Thankfully, the car is equipped with 10s of thousands of dollars worth of safety equipment (full FIA-legal cage, harnesses, HANS devices, helmets, etc. etc.), and they walked away with minimal injuries. both the driver and co-driver are a little sore, and the co-driver got a little scraped up by some shattered glass, but nothing even remotely severe!. At the time, we had 2 video cameras recording. one suction-cupped to the driver's door (we had a string tied from it to the door handle, just in case. you'll notice in the video when the suction cup fails and it starts flying around on the string). the other mounted to the roll cage, and plugged into the intercom. the sound on the external cam sucks, so turn down the volume until the footage from the other camera starts. most of the damage was cosmetic. will need lots of body panels. but the roll cage wasn't even touched, the pillars supported the weight entirely. frame rails are in-tact, suspension is straight. we got lucky! a good friend of ours, Mark Utecht, also rolled his mustang. similar problems. just came in too hot, little co-driver mistake, etc. and rolled. Mark was not as lucky, he landed upside-down, crushed the body of the car onto the cage, which left him trapped in the car. his car is not worth repairing. more pictures from the event http://mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33979

kinda like this. I was able to do this with an LSD and a hill (you can't really tell, but the slab is not level.....not really even close). ]

Qman, Turbone, and one other (who's name escapes me, ER27, divorced tcase in a brat, went off to the military some time ago, IIRC) all stripped out the transfer gears in theirs. I've also heard of someone with a FT4WD turbo wagon doing it....although again I can't remember who. of course. Archemetis here in MN drove his hatch with 30" tires and an ER27 (no divorced tcase, though) in RWD all the time. he would actually stop at the trail head to install/remove a front axle. and he was not gentle on it. I don't remember if he had a 4-speed or 5. so yea, the EA transfer gears don't hold up well to being run in RWD only. although, every case I can think of involved people being pretty hard on their rigs (and, most of them involved more-than-stock horsepower and/or big tires). I think if you drive it fairly normally, you'd be fine. but, then, what's the point? Of course, if you had a 5-speed in there, and you weren't concerned with making the front diff work. you could weld up an EJ center diff, and put the EJ center case/transfer gears on your EA82 5MT....which would be a drastic improvement (that's what I would do for a tcased rig...). yea, there would be a little potential for reducing weight. but not much. and you'd have to fabricate some sort of block-off plate for the front axle stubs. some machining to eliminate the 4WD engagement stuff.