Numbchux

no, I've seen many legacies with them. http://dccdpro.com/

Gary....hope you don't mind that we've totally hijacked your thread disclaimer: I wrote this over the course of about 2 hours.....as I kept trying things and searching for part numbers and dimensions......so it's kind of a Train-of-thought post. Bear with me.....it's worth it!! so, I just went downstairs and looked. the inner seal is definitely different. I don't have an XT6 seal on hand, but I did have a Beck/Arnley 0523586 (front inner, bought for a '92 legacy L, but good for most EJs). That seal was just a hair (probably 2-4 mm) too small in both ID and OD. so, here's the specs on the XT6 one from rockauto.com: Shaft Size=2.283" Housing Bore=2.992" Outer Diameter=3.001" Width=0.307" if we can find these same dimensions for the EJ one, we might be able to find a seal from something else that will fit and allow the crossover. it does mean that EJ axles would work with ER knuckles, but the seal just wouldn't be seated tight against the CV cup. alright, just found some more info. Beck/Arnley part# 0523586 on the Timken interchange chart is the same as Timken #225673. go back into rockauto with that part #, and it comes up with a few subarus (only listed as FWD.....but if it's an interchange with the B/A part number, it should work for all), and also some Toyotas (corolla, paseo, etc.)......look it up under the toyota application, and you find that same part number under the BCA/National brand.......with dimensions!!!! Shaft Size=2.205" Housing Bore=2.874" Outer Diameter=2.883" Width=0.295" I was able to reproduce those dimensions on a couple different interchange searches (geo prizm, the toyotas, and a few subarus). so, after some work with a calculator and tape measure (boy I wish I had a caliper....). those dimensions appear to be almost dead on. so, for an EJ axle in an ER knuckle. we're looking for a seal with the dimensions: Shaft Size=2.205" Housing Bore=2.992" Outer Diameter=3.001" and for an ER axle in an EJ knuckle.... Shaft Size=2.283" Housing Bore=2.874" Outer Diameter=2.883" then I found a Timken "Seal spec guide" http://www.timken.com/zh-cn/products/Documents/SealSpecGuide7533.pdf for the first conversion....I found a couple that are very close: 2.205 2.992 2.998 0.193 710108 2.205 3.071 3.082 0.295 225678 I think with the width, the 225678 is the way to go. for the second, I found this one: 2.283 2.874 2.878 0.335 710439 not perfect....but I think that's as close as it's going to get..... I think in the morning, I'll see if I can get my hands on either of these locally.....

other way around. outer is on the outside of the car. inner is towards the axle/trans.

found what I was thinking of.... my post on the xt boards: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10356 punch line: OEM number in my 4 year-old parts book: 9062580020 looked up that number on 1stsubaruparts.com, and it listed the superseded number: 28015AA070 which is the same as EJ stuff. these are for the OUTER seals. but yea, part number for the inners is different. but I suspect you could use the other seal. as it will definitely mate up with the hub just fine. and now that I think about it, the hub I was test-fitting had blown bearings, so it's possible that either the seal had already been removed, or was shot. I shall investigate into my parts pile tonight when I get home (I've got an extra EJ knuckle, pair of ER knuckles, and a couple sets of bearings/seals around......)

hmmmm.....I'm at work now...so I'm not sure what part numbers I found. I do know that an EJ bearing will fit perfectly an in ER knuckle.....and I thought I figured that out due to a superceded subaru part # that was the same between EJ and ER..... maybe just use the ER seal in the EJ knuckle??

awesome, my buddy has a spiider controller (predecessor to the DCCDpro) and 6MT in his '93 tleg. I just love the way that thing handles, ESPECIALLY in low-traction situations. it's so responsive on initial turn-in while ice racing. like no other subaru I've driven. now I just have to convince Carl to let me "test drive" the rally car with the GEMS controller (controller alone cost like $2k )

my home-made carrier mount in my loyale kept eating carrier bearings....so I had an EA81 shaft lengthened.....it's worked pretty well for ~10-15k miles. only problem, is with the shot rear diff bushing, and ebrake handle bolts sticking down in the tunnel, it rubs when I'm hard on the throttle. before I sell it, I need to get in there and flip those bolts around so they don't stick down so much (and replace the diff bushing...).

Tried to once fit ER axles in early hubs from a turbo Legacy and it was a no-go. Will work in this application if the inner grease seal is removed but ER axles and Gen 1 inner seals are not the same. Maybe the newer hubs went with the larger grease seals. I don't know. what was a no go about it? the beck/arnley part# for the bearings is identical for ER and all 5x100 EJs. and I think the same is true for the inner seal (possibly outer, too. I don't remember). the hubs look the same. I've got a hub off a '92 legacy that I slid onto the ER shaft as well, and it seated just fine. well. I'll know soon enough. I'm preparing to put EJ knuckles/brakes on my '6. planning to use the ER axles. also, I've had some pretty nasty axles (clicking, binding, etc.) and rescued them with a good cleanout and fresh grease. I doubt switching sides really did much.

XT6 and EJ axles are interchangeable. the hub splines are identical. I put an ER axle through an '01 legacy hub/knuckle, and it fit perfectly! EJ axles are like 10mm longer, IIRC. I'd grab some OEM EJ fronts from a junkyard or something, put fresh boots and grease on them, and put them in. they'll probably last longer than any other option.

it's a matter of preference. I prefer rigs with a locked rear, as the end with the least weight over it tends to lift a wheel first, and therefore needs the locker first. also, when hillclimbing, all the weight transfers to the back, so having both fronts spinning just doesn't help enough. but, I've never driven a rig with manual lockers front and rear to try different setups independent of other factors (we've got a couple jeep guys in our club that swear by locked fronts....but it's hard to say if a different suspension setup might be responsible for what I'm feeling). when it comes down to it, we all drive our rigs on the street (not necessarily daily....but non of them are trailer queens), and are too cheap for manual lockers.....so pretty much all of us have locked rears (no...not me, yet).

wow, the rear is a blatant copy of the ones that AA made. right down to the plates on the side mimicking the shape of the quarter. only difference is the receiver is mounted better than it was on mine. Extremely sweet rig. and the new paint looks awesome! Great work

What GD said. take the axle off the diff side (you probably already did this), take the hub off, and pound on the end of the stub. it'll come out just like a front axle. then you can get it on a bench and separate it however you need to. I don't have the equipment to get it hot fast, so I usually get the whole thing real hot, and then use a damp rag to cool the stub.

larger tires won't compress the suspension. in fact, they'll make the camber look a ton worse than it does. I realize the suspension is extended a lot since there's no engine in it, and it probably hasn't even been rolled since the lift was installed. but it still looks like a lot. it will change a lot once assembled and used..... how big are the blocks at the crossmember?

the car with auto seatbelts and no dash is the legacy donor I hope that camber settles out got the harness laid out in the living room....hopefully I'll have time to make some big progress on it this week.

yea, that's pretty nasty. might be able to just hone it out and use standard pistons......but if possible, I'd go for a slight overbore.

yep, an overbore is to allow for a perfectly clean, round cylinder. depending on how many miles are on your block, you may want to do the same. the only way to know for sure is to take a few very precise measurements to make sure the cylinder walls are round, and aren't tapered at all.

can be done without. but IMHO, it's worth every cent, even if only used once. FYI, it really needs to be used with an impact wrench. it's very hard to keep it straight with a breaker bar or ratchet, otherwise it slips off very easily. but with an impact....it just comes apart in a second. just awesome!

bummer....looked like the perfect solution

also has to be jdm due to the year, as we didn't get the 6MT until '04. I, too, am curious about the controller. I've got a buddy using a spiider unit, and the rallyamerica car that I'm servicing for has a GEMS controller in it (EXTREMELY nice unit, but like $2k, IIRC).

:slobber::eek: :banana: nice work! driven it much? any clearance issues? I thought GLoyale had clearance issues with the EJ 4EAT, and I thought the 6MT was a bit bigger than the 4EAT. rear diff?

I'd go as far as to say 100hp out of a carbed, cali-model N/A EA82 isn't possible. fuel economy is a mysterious lady. yes, an engine with more power to give CAN mean it doesn't work as hard to maintain speed. But, as GD said, usually not. Generally speaking, intake and exhaust restrictions can fit under this category, specifically speaking about your car, the intake is fine (as long as the filter is in good shape), but there is a bit to be gained from the exhaust. a weber carb would allow you to tune it more specifically, and make the engine much more efficient. which would probably yield better power AND mileage (once/if it's tuned correctly). but you'd risk smog failure. an SPFI swap might not though....but I don't know the specifics. all the vacuum solenoids and crap that are under the hood of that car are definitely not necessary for efficiency's sake. but you might be right in saying that messing them will risk failing smog. BUT, vacuum leaks will hurt everything. so depending on the condition of them, it might be a big help to go through there and replace a bunch of those hoses. as mentioned, 30mpg is awesome for your car. my '85 cali-spec carbed EA82 was lucky to see 20. that thing was the biggest POS subaru I've ever owned, and just because of all the cali-spec garbage. considering your situation, I'd say the only "modification" that might help is exhaust. free it up after the cats, and you might gain a bit. Then just tune-up stuff. plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters, 02 sensor (my '85 had one.....), etc.

hmmmm......I may have to do that for my projects. beats the heck out of waiting for SuperPro to get me a set!

essentially no. There are a few sets of OEM subaru 14" wheels floating around, but they are INSANELY rare. seriously, I'd guess less than 5 sets in North America. your best bet is 6-lug or peugeots.

in the grand scheme of all engines known to man. yea, not too bad. I still rate them as pretty much the worst that subaru has made. I'd buy an EJ25D.....wouldn't even accept a free EA82.

no 22t isn't any better than a 22e. in fact, in most high-hp applications, they just overheat because all the coolant passages are filled with aluminum. 20t is kind of generic. as they've been making them for 15 years. and they're all pretty mediocre, reliability-wise. ditto on EJ25. the 25d had the headgasket issues. but 251s and 253s are still great motors. and I'd put 255s and 257s at the top of the list. my list: EJ257 EJ255 EJ22e Phase I EJ22t EG33 EZ30D EJ207 EJ253 EJ20G EJ251 EA81 EJ22e Phase II EJ18 EJ20R EJ20H EZ30DR EJ205 ER27 EJ25D EZ36DR EA82 Justy EA82t I'm with GD. I wouldn't drive an EA82 if it was free. I wouldn't accept it unless it was worth something for scrap, or I had intended to swap it (an Ea82 shell with an EJ22 is pretty much pure automotive sex....)