Numbchux

this attitude is why I stopped trying to help. you were told to remove the strut from the knuckle, and you ignored it. now you have more problems, and are blaming everyone else. the toe is because the control arm is not bolted to the crossmember.

huh...found my book. 1985-92. but part number 8259.... almost all of section 6 is wiring diagrams, and they're identical to FSM ones. about 200 pages. although, I just flipped through it, and the only EA82 ones are 1990-92 loyale and XTs, still nothing with a D/R

you'll need: tranny starter adapter plate -> http://www.sjrlift.com rear diff (your forester probably has a 4.111, a D/R would need a 3.90) flywheel clutch kit linkage driveshaft (forester one will work, but will need to be modified for length). and some custom work for a crossmember. all the used parts would probably cost about 2-300 at the local junkyard here in Duluth, could be a lot more depending on the source. the adapter plate is a couple hundred (I'm having problems with SJRs site right now. looks like it's been redesigned since the last time I was on there. you could always pm him here, his id is "Scott in Bellingham"). you'll want a high-quality clutch kit to hold the power. I HIGHLY suggest the Beck/Arnley kit for an XT6. I got mine from RockAuto.com for a bit under 200. and then labor. if you pay someone else to do it.....yikes. you'll also run into an issue with the clutch. as your forester will have a hydraulic clutch, and the D/Rs have a cable clutch. I suspect the best way would be to get a clutch/brake pedal assembly from a 2.2l legacy or impreza with a cable clutch. then you might be able to sell off the old parts (trans. hydro clutch assembly). if you do the work yourself, you could probably come out only about $500 down. but you could easily spend a grand. and if you're paying someone else for the whole project.....could be more like 2.

way too low for any performance. the alignment goes all out of whack at that point, etc. for looks though. it's fine. people have been doing stuff like that to rabbits and such for years. simply dropping it that low to sit in the driveway is easy. many "dumped" projects involve tons of fabbing and calculating to maintain some travel and decent suspension geometry. I'm not a big fan of poorly-done slammed cars (no offense....but seriously, it is pretty basic), but if someone were to go to the trouble of cutting up mounting brackets and moving pivot points up a few inches, and extending the strut towers, maybe lengthen the rear control arms to maintain camber/toe at those angles, move the shock mounts up, etc. example (too bad many of the picture links are dead. but you get the idea.....) http://www.the152.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=2419&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I have searched. and re-hosted everything I've been able to find on my site. http://numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm and, wiring section for an '88 XT (doesn't help you for the D/R stuff...) I did my EJ22 swap out of a 1985-1992 Chilton's manual. they're direct copies of FSM diagrams....

buy a Chilton's manual. they've got FSM wiring diagrams for numerous models. or.....if I ever get around to it, I might scan mine and .pdf it

also, I suspect you'll have to take the whole strut out (separate it from the knuckle) in order to get the block up there.

our Rally car is an '04 STi. the ABS stuff is all disabled (all hardlines replumbed, none going near the pump. but the pump and wiring is still there). We had a wheel sensor fail at Gravity Park this year, and were unable to get it to work without the sensor (or ABS pump/computer). we tried a few different things, and the only thing that helped was a new sensor. worse part was, when it had the wheel sensor error, it would go to full-lock......not good. We came to the conclusion that the sensors were too vulnerable, which is why a GEMs controller was "obtained" (Thank goodness GEM is one of our sponsors ). since that installation, our driver has said he regrets not doing it sooner, as it has drastically improved the way the car handles. most notably under hard braking, the stock controller is programmed to release the center diff while braking hard to let the ABS pump control traction. but in any performance situation, you want that center diff to tighten up..... the DCCDpro controllers are suprising cheap, considering.....well worth the money IMHO.

no, I've seen many legacies with them. http://dccdpro.com/

Gary....hope you don't mind that we've totally hijacked your thread disclaimer: I wrote this over the course of about 2 hours.....as I kept trying things and searching for part numbers and dimensions......so it's kind of a Train-of-thought post. Bear with me.....it's worth it!! so, I just went downstairs and looked. the inner seal is definitely different. I don't have an XT6 seal on hand, but I did have a Beck/Arnley 0523586 (front inner, bought for a '92 legacy L, but good for most EJs). That seal was just a hair (probably 2-4 mm) too small in both ID and OD. so, here's the specs on the XT6 one from rockauto.com: Shaft Size=2.283" Housing Bore=2.992" Outer Diameter=3.001" Width=0.307" if we can find these same dimensions for the EJ one, we might be able to find a seal from something else that will fit and allow the crossover. it does mean that EJ axles would work with ER knuckles, but the seal just wouldn't be seated tight against the CV cup. alright, just found some more info. Beck/Arnley part# 0523586 on the Timken interchange chart is the same as Timken #225673. go back into rockauto with that part #, and it comes up with a few subarus (only listed as FWD.....but if it's an interchange with the B/A part number, it should work for all), and also some Toyotas (corolla, paseo, etc.)......look it up under the toyota application, and you find that same part number under the BCA/National brand.......with dimensions!!!! Shaft Size=2.205" Housing Bore=2.874" Outer Diameter=2.883" Width=0.295" I was able to reproduce those dimensions on a couple different interchange searches (geo prizm, the toyotas, and a few subarus). so, after some work with a calculator and tape measure (boy I wish I had a caliper....). those dimensions appear to be almost dead on. so, for an EJ axle in an ER knuckle. we're looking for a seal with the dimensions: Shaft Size=2.205" Housing Bore=2.992" Outer Diameter=3.001" and for an ER axle in an EJ knuckle.... Shaft Size=2.283" Housing Bore=2.874" Outer Diameter=2.883" then I found a Timken "Seal spec guide" http://www.timken.com/zh-cn/products/Documents/SealSpecGuide7533.pdf for the first conversion....I found a couple that are very close: 2.205 2.992 2.998 0.193 710108 2.205 3.071 3.082 0.295 225678 I think with the width, the 225678 is the way to go. for the second, I found this one: 2.283 2.874 2.878 0.335 710439 not perfect....but I think that's as close as it's going to get..... I think in the morning, I'll see if I can get my hands on either of these locally.....

other way around. outer is on the outside of the car. inner is towards the axle/trans.

found what I was thinking of.... my post on the xt boards: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10356 punch line: OEM number in my 4 year-old parts book: 9062580020 looked up that number on 1stsubaruparts.com, and it listed the superseded number: 28015AA070 which is the same as EJ stuff. these are for the OUTER seals. but yea, part number for the inners is different. but I suspect you could use the other seal. as it will definitely mate up with the hub just fine. and now that I think about it, the hub I was test-fitting had blown bearings, so it's possible that either the seal had already been removed, or was shot. I shall investigate into my parts pile tonight when I get home (I've got an extra EJ knuckle, pair of ER knuckles, and a couple sets of bearings/seals around......)

hmmmm.....I'm at work now...so I'm not sure what part numbers I found. I do know that an EJ bearing will fit perfectly an in ER knuckle.....and I thought I figured that out due to a superceded subaru part # that was the same between EJ and ER..... maybe just use the ER seal in the EJ knuckle??

awesome, my buddy has a spiider controller (predecessor to the DCCDpro) and 6MT in his '93 tleg. I just love the way that thing handles, ESPECIALLY in low-traction situations. it's so responsive on initial turn-in while ice racing. like no other subaru I've driven. now I just have to convince Carl to let me "test drive" the rally car with the GEMS controller (controller alone cost like $2k )

my home-made carrier mount in my loyale kept eating carrier bearings....so I had an EA81 shaft lengthened.....it's worked pretty well for ~10-15k miles. only problem, is with the shot rear diff bushing, and ebrake handle bolts sticking down in the tunnel, it rubs when I'm hard on the throttle. before I sell it, I need to get in there and flip those bolts around so they don't stick down so much (and replace the diff bushing...).

Tried to once fit ER axles in early hubs from a turbo Legacy and it was a no-go. Will work in this application if the inner grease seal is removed but ER axles and Gen 1 inner seals are not the same. Maybe the newer hubs went with the larger grease seals. I don't know. what was a no go about it? the beck/arnley part# for the bearings is identical for ER and all 5x100 EJs. and I think the same is true for the inner seal (possibly outer, too. I don't remember). the hubs look the same. I've got a hub off a '92 legacy that I slid onto the ER shaft as well, and it seated just fine. well. I'll know soon enough. I'm preparing to put EJ knuckles/brakes on my '6. planning to use the ER axles. also, I've had some pretty nasty axles (clicking, binding, etc.) and rescued them with a good cleanout and fresh grease. I doubt switching sides really did much.

XT6 and EJ axles are interchangeable. the hub splines are identical. I put an ER axle through an '01 legacy hub/knuckle, and it fit perfectly! EJ axles are like 10mm longer, IIRC. I'd grab some OEM EJ fronts from a junkyard or something, put fresh boots and grease on them, and put them in. they'll probably last longer than any other option.

it's a matter of preference. I prefer rigs with a locked rear, as the end with the least weight over it tends to lift a wheel first, and therefore needs the locker first. also, when hillclimbing, all the weight transfers to the back, so having both fronts spinning just doesn't help enough. but, I've never driven a rig with manual lockers front and rear to try different setups independent of other factors (we've got a couple jeep guys in our club that swear by locked fronts....but it's hard to say if a different suspension setup might be responsible for what I'm feeling). when it comes down to it, we all drive our rigs on the street (not necessarily daily....but non of them are trailer queens), and are too cheap for manual lockers.....so pretty much all of us have locked rears (no...not me, yet).

wow, the rear is a blatant copy of the ones that AA made. right down to the plates on the side mimicking the shape of the quarter. only difference is the receiver is mounted better than it was on mine. Extremely sweet rig. and the new paint looks awesome! Great work

What GD said. take the axle off the diff side (you probably already did this), take the hub off, and pound on the end of the stub. it'll come out just like a front axle. then you can get it on a bench and separate it however you need to. I don't have the equipment to get it hot fast, so I usually get the whole thing real hot, and then use a damp rag to cool the stub.

larger tires won't compress the suspension. in fact, they'll make the camber look a ton worse than it does. I realize the suspension is extended a lot since there's no engine in it, and it probably hasn't even been rolled since the lift was installed. but it still looks like a lot. it will change a lot once assembled and used..... how big are the blocks at the crossmember?

the car with auto seatbelts and no dash is the legacy donor I hope that camber settles out got the harness laid out in the living room....hopefully I'll have time to make some big progress on it this week.

yea, that's pretty nasty. might be able to just hone it out and use standard pistons......but if possible, I'd go for a slight overbore.

yep, an overbore is to allow for a perfectly clean, round cylinder. depending on how many miles are on your block, you may want to do the same. the only way to know for sure is to take a few very precise measurements to make sure the cylinder walls are round, and aren't tapered at all.

can be done without. but IMHO, it's worth every cent, even if only used once. FYI, it really needs to be used with an impact wrench. it's very hard to keep it straight with a breaker bar or ratchet, otherwise it slips off very easily. but with an impact....it just comes apart in a second. just awesome!