Numbchux

So I finally got around to sending a message to Noah and Shawn. While they both do it occasionally.....not terribly actively. So.....I thought I'd throw my name in the hat. preferred contact method is through the email form on my website. that way it goes to my main email address, and get's tagged that it's about Numbchuxconversions. http://www.numbchuxconversions.com I've done a dozen or so early EJ22 harnesses for EA subarus. a couple for VWs, a few for VW-based buggies. I can also do full merges. I did the Grimmspeed track car, which is a '96 impreza with an '05 WRX motor/trans/dash (climate control and 200+awhp in a GC impreza!!): 5 SVX swaps. last month we did my buddy's '95 impreza LX, which got 2002 WRX ECU, wiring, and heads, with a built EJ22t shortblock and the stock dash (pictures to come when his pistons arrive and it can actually be assembled....).

all RSs were turbo. and, AFAIK, they were the only loyales that were. there is one here in Duluth that I've seen a few times, but it's pretty much rotted away to nothing.

I haven't posted it there as I didn't want to step on Shawn or Noah's toes. I don't know if they're still doing it though.....I'll send them a pm and see.

http://www.numbchuxconversions.com

possibly some seafoam.....or pb blaster

was just looking at it again. and I think it's only a bit lower than my wagon was a couple years ago.

oh yea, it totally depends on the conditions. on the rocks up here....you have to have some momentum to get over the top (because you won't have any traction), so you bend stuff. I don't know, it's hard to say what it'll mean in your situation. regardless, the only thing I would change is I'd throw a gusset on the lower side of it to make sure it maintain's that angle.... although, I forgot about the gearing. that'll definitely help a ton.

I never bent one on the street hard to tell from the pictures. and will totally depend on how you use the rig....but I'm pretty sure one day out on the trails up here with me driving, and that thing would be folded back on itself

^forgot to take some closeups. I'll try to remember when I have the intake mani off. This was a pretty mild porting job, mostly just a casting cleanup. but they did sharpen up the splitters on the intake sides nicely. well. I bolted them to the motor. and then put an intake manifold on it..... and then I found some other random junk around the basement (wound up with a box and the center case section from a legacy trans...) to hold the SC and IC where they would wind up to plan my intake tract. Yea, when the new shell arrives, it probably won't be long before it's boosting!

^my thoughts exactly.....pre-bent might just lead to more bending. still pretty sweet. I'm definitely quite anxious to see this one finished!

even with no gas cap, it pushes fuel out the vent line? here's the post that led me to try running with the gas cap loose: I got lucky. after a couple tanks of gas, it seemed to solve itself. but Dhise mentions cleaning out the separator.....that might be your next step.

this attitude is why I stopped trying to help. you were told to remove the strut from the knuckle, and you ignored it. now you have more problems, and are blaming everyone else. the toe is because the control arm is not bolted to the crossmember.

huh...found my book. 1985-92. but part number 8259.... almost all of section 6 is wiring diagrams, and they're identical to FSM ones. about 200 pages. although, I just flipped through it, and the only EA82 ones are 1990-92 loyale and XTs, still nothing with a D/R

you'll need: tranny starter adapter plate -> http://www.sjrlift.com rear diff (your forester probably has a 4.111, a D/R would need a 3.90) flywheel clutch kit linkage driveshaft (forester one will work, but will need to be modified for length). and some custom work for a crossmember. all the used parts would probably cost about 2-300 at the local junkyard here in Duluth, could be a lot more depending on the source. the adapter plate is a couple hundred (I'm having problems with SJRs site right now. looks like it's been redesigned since the last time I was on there. you could always pm him here, his id is "Scott in Bellingham"). you'll want a high-quality clutch kit to hold the power. I HIGHLY suggest the Beck/Arnley kit for an XT6. I got mine from RockAuto.com for a bit under 200. and then labor. if you pay someone else to do it.....yikes. you'll also run into an issue with the clutch. as your forester will have a hydraulic clutch, and the D/Rs have a cable clutch. I suspect the best way would be to get a clutch/brake pedal assembly from a 2.2l legacy or impreza with a cable clutch. then you might be able to sell off the old parts (trans. hydro clutch assembly). if you do the work yourself, you could probably come out only about $500 down. but you could easily spend a grand. and if you're paying someone else for the whole project.....could be more like 2.

way too low for any performance. the alignment goes all out of whack at that point, etc. for looks though. it's fine. people have been doing stuff like that to rabbits and such for years. simply dropping it that low to sit in the driveway is easy. many "dumped" projects involve tons of fabbing and calculating to maintain some travel and decent suspension geometry. I'm not a big fan of poorly-done slammed cars (no offense....but seriously, it is pretty basic), but if someone were to go to the trouble of cutting up mounting brackets and moving pivot points up a few inches, and extending the strut towers, maybe lengthen the rear control arms to maintain camber/toe at those angles, move the shock mounts up, etc. example (too bad many of the picture links are dead. but you get the idea.....) http://www.the152.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=2419&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

I have searched. and re-hosted everything I've been able to find on my site. http://numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm and, wiring section for an '88 XT (doesn't help you for the D/R stuff...) I did my EJ22 swap out of a 1985-1992 Chilton's manual. they're direct copies of FSM diagrams....

buy a Chilton's manual. they've got FSM wiring diagrams for numerous models. or.....if I ever get around to it, I might scan mine and .pdf it

also, I suspect you'll have to take the whole strut out (separate it from the knuckle) in order to get the block up there.

our Rally car is an '04 STi. the ABS stuff is all disabled (all hardlines replumbed, none going near the pump. but the pump and wiring is still there). We had a wheel sensor fail at Gravity Park this year, and were unable to get it to work without the sensor (or ABS pump/computer). we tried a few different things, and the only thing that helped was a new sensor. worse part was, when it had the wheel sensor error, it would go to full-lock......not good. We came to the conclusion that the sensors were too vulnerable, which is why a GEMs controller was "obtained" (Thank goodness GEM is one of our sponsors ). since that installation, our driver has said he regrets not doing it sooner, as it has drastically improved the way the car handles. most notably under hard braking, the stock controller is programmed to release the center diff while braking hard to let the ABS pump control traction. but in any performance situation, you want that center diff to tighten up..... the DCCDpro controllers are suprising cheap, considering.....well worth the money IMHO.

no, I've seen many legacies with them. http://dccdpro.com/

Gary....hope you don't mind that we've totally hijacked your thread disclaimer: I wrote this over the course of about 2 hours.....as I kept trying things and searching for part numbers and dimensions......so it's kind of a Train-of-thought post. Bear with me.....it's worth it!! so, I just went downstairs and looked. the inner seal is definitely different. I don't have an XT6 seal on hand, but I did have a Beck/Arnley 0523586 (front inner, bought for a '92 legacy L, but good for most EJs). That seal was just a hair (probably 2-4 mm) too small in both ID and OD. so, here's the specs on the XT6 one from rockauto.com: Shaft Size=2.283" Housing Bore=2.992" Outer Diameter=3.001" Width=0.307" if we can find these same dimensions for the EJ one, we might be able to find a seal from something else that will fit and allow the crossover. it does mean that EJ axles would work with ER knuckles, but the seal just wouldn't be seated tight against the CV cup. alright, just found some more info. Beck/Arnley part# 0523586 on the Timken interchange chart is the same as Timken #225673. go back into rockauto with that part #, and it comes up with a few subarus (only listed as FWD.....but if it's an interchange with the B/A part number, it should work for all), and also some Toyotas (corolla, paseo, etc.)......look it up under the toyota application, and you find that same part number under the BCA/National brand.......with dimensions!!!! Shaft Size=2.205" Housing Bore=2.874" Outer Diameter=2.883" Width=0.295" I was able to reproduce those dimensions on a couple different interchange searches (geo prizm, the toyotas, and a few subarus). so, after some work with a calculator and tape measure (boy I wish I had a caliper....). those dimensions appear to be almost dead on. so, for an EJ axle in an ER knuckle. we're looking for a seal with the dimensions: Shaft Size=2.205" Housing Bore=2.992" Outer Diameter=3.001" and for an ER axle in an EJ knuckle.... Shaft Size=2.283" Housing Bore=2.874" Outer Diameter=2.883" then I found a Timken "Seal spec guide" http://www.timken.com/zh-cn/products/Documents/SealSpecGuide7533.pdf for the first conversion....I found a couple that are very close: 2.205 2.992 2.998 0.193 710108 2.205 3.071 3.082 0.295 225678 I think with the width, the 225678 is the way to go. for the second, I found this one: 2.283 2.874 2.878 0.335 710439 not perfect....but I think that's as close as it's going to get..... I think in the morning, I'll see if I can get my hands on either of these locally.....

other way around. outer is on the outside of the car. inner is towards the axle/trans.

found what I was thinking of.... my post on the xt boards: http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10356 punch line: OEM number in my 4 year-old parts book: 9062580020 looked up that number on 1stsubaruparts.com, and it listed the superseded number: 28015AA070 which is the same as EJ stuff. these are for the OUTER seals. but yea, part number for the inners is different. but I suspect you could use the other seal. as it will definitely mate up with the hub just fine. and now that I think about it, the hub I was test-fitting had blown bearings, so it's possible that either the seal had already been removed, or was shot. I shall investigate into my parts pile tonight when I get home (I've got an extra EJ knuckle, pair of ER knuckles, and a couple sets of bearings/seals around......)

hmmmm.....I'm at work now...so I'm not sure what part numbers I found. I do know that an EJ bearing will fit perfectly an in ER knuckle.....and I thought I figured that out due to a superceded subaru part # that was the same between EJ and ER..... maybe just use the ER seal in the EJ knuckle??

awesome, my buddy has a spiider controller (predecessor to the DCCDpro) and 6MT in his '93 tleg. I just love the way that thing handles, ESPECIALLY in low-traction situations. it's so responsive on initial turn-in while ice racing. like no other subaru I've driven. now I just have to convince Carl to let me "test drive" the rally car with the GEMS controller (controller alone cost like $2k )