Numbchux

you definitely can use those legacy struts and knuckles. I've heard that XT6 calipers bolt right up to EJ knuckles. but can't confirm. you will want to use the XT6 rotors though, as their a slightly different diameter. strut top differences are only a few mm. I was able to get the EJ top hats onto my loyale without any modification, and a few seconds with the dremel on my XT6.

that should be plenty of clearance in the back, since the suspension will swing towards the back as it compresses.

I've put a long bolt in there, heck, I've run without the pin for months on the fronts (don't do it in the back though.....there is enough play for them to fall off......go ahead, ask me how I know).

Save money and headache by re-booting/rebuilding your own axles, instead of buying remanufactured ones that are likely to fail in short order. you will need a couple specialty tools to complete the project that you wouldn't need for the removal of the axle. These are a snapring pliers and a CV Boot clamp tool. with some patience and cussing, the snapring can be removed without the tool, but the cost is worth it, even if you only use it once. the clamp tool can be rented from some stores. Both are readily available at any auto parts store for less than $10 each: DSCF0669 by Numbchux, on Flickr you'll also want a roll of paper/shop towels nearby. as there's a lot of grease in there that'll need to be cleaned out. and a good hand cleaner and a solvent. NOTE: it is possible to replace only the DOJ/SFJ boot (on the tranny/diff side), but it's only about 5-10 minutes extra work and $5-10 extra cost to replace the outer while you're at it. whereas you have to do the whole project to replace the outer boot. so just do it while you're at it, and then you don't have to worry about it! first, remove the axle. This is a fairly common topic, and write-ups for your specific subaru can be found all over the internet. once you've got the axle out, and on the bench (or the floor....). Start the disassembly. DSCF0664 by Numbchux, on Flickr now you'll need to remove the clamps: DSCF0665 by Numbchux, on Flickr For future reference, this inner joint, with the squared off cups is a DOJ (double-offset joint) or SFJ (Shuderless Freering tripod Joint) on newer models. both of these designs allow the axle to telescope, and change length a bit. this can be done with a cutoff wheel, tin snips, but I prefer to pry the clamp apart with a chisel or screwdriver: DSCF0667 by Numbchux, on Flickr This outer joint is a CVJ (Constant Velocity Joint), it does not telescope, but does allow higher angles without binding. DSCF0668 by Numbchux, on Flickr now pull the boot back from the axle cup: DSCF0671 by Numbchux, on Flickr ewwww....that grease is very contaminated and worn out. once most of the grease is cleaned out, use a screwdriver (or tip of a pliers, or even a pen...) to pry the circlip out of the axle cup: DSCF0672 by Numbchux, on Flickr then pull the joint out of the axle cup: DSCF0675 by Numbchux, on Flickr now, if your joint looks like this, you have an SFJ, which doesn't need to be disassembled. skip the next few steps to pulling the snapring off: 2017-08-04_10-14-35 by Numbchux, on Flickr here are the components of a DOJ, cleaned, layed out, and labeled: DSCF0681 by Numbchux, on Flickr wipe some of the grease off, and then rock the retainer back and forth to force the balls out: DSCF0676 by Numbchux, on Flickr once all 6 balls are out, rotate the retainer a bit, and slip it off the inner race onto the shaft: DSCF0677 by Numbchux, on Flickr then use your snapring pliers to remove the snapring: DSCF0678 by Numbchux, on Flickr DSCF0679 by Numbchux, on Flickr then you can slide the inner race off the shaft. at this point, be sure to take note of which side goes where. the first time I did this, I used a couple dabs of white-out on one side of the race and retainer so I knew how it went. now slide both boots off the shaft. now comes the task of cleaning out the CVJ. this is a little more difficult, as it cannot easily be disassembled (I know it's possible....but I've never done it without destroying it). this one is pretty nasty, dried up and crusted with dirt. DSCF0682 by Numbchux, on Flickr I prefer to work some petroleum based hand cleaner (like Goop or Gojo......make sure to get the petroleum version. easiest way to tell is look at the directions for use. if step one is something like "do not wet hands", you've got the right stuff), and work that into the joint: DSCF0683 by Numbchux, on Flickr then rinse it repeatedly with a solvent (gas works....if nothing else) DSCF0684 by Numbchux, on Flickr once cleaned out, you should be able to move it around fairly easily. don't be alarmed if it binds up while dry. it takes quite a lot to damage these irreparably, once you've worked some grease in there, it should free up quite a bit. now to put it back together. fill the CVJ with grease (go ahead and use the whole pack), and then slide the boot on the shaft. then the small clamp. next slide the other smaller clamp, and the inner boot. now slide the retainer on, followed by the inner race (make sure both are facing the right direction....remember those marks you made?). then install the snapring, and re-assemble the retainer and 6 balls (again, not necessary if you have an SFJ). DSCF0202 by Numbchux, on Flickr put the joint into the axle cup, and re-install the circlip. now, open your other pack of grease and put a bunch in the axle cup, and the rest in the boot. slide the boot onto the cup, seat the boots in the indents on the shaft/cups for the clamps. now install and tighten the clamps. and you're done! DSCF0203 by Numbchux, on Flickr now move the joints through their range of motion repeatedly to work the grease into the joints. re-install in the car. and enjoy!

talked to a local buddy today. he's parting out a first-gen legacy. so I'll grab the rack from that. sometime in the next month, or so, I'll be swapping the motor, PS pump and lines anyway, so I'll see how close the fit is.

yep, I remember you had said that. which is a huge start. some great info here! hopefully I can run out to the junkyard and get some more information tomorrow.

the few times I've done it. I've left them as they were.....with zero problems.

no. not even similar

yea, I just meant using a standard belt-driven pump with the XT6 rack.... anyway. just got an email back from q-rack. they say they make no external modifications to the rack. so if an EJ series rack fits, theirs will too. so, after studying some FSMs. looks like the XT racks are a 17:1 ratio (XT6 is not any quicker, even though it's 3.2 turns lock to lock, instead of 3.7. so I suspect the '6 can't turn as sharp). looks like most other EJs are in the 15-20 range. '04 STi is 2.7 turns lock-to-lock (no ratio shown). the q-rack offers 12.5:1 and 11.5:1 versions both about 2.4 turns.

damn! that would be sick!! I've heard that the 6MT is the same size as an EJ 4EAT. which Gloyale proved only barely fits in an EA82 tranny tunnel......yea, I think you'll have to do some modifiying to get it all to fit. also....r180 in a brat :slobber: I'm officially more jealous of your brat than I was before. I didn't know that was possible! Nice freakin work man!!!!!!

I know the thread pitch is the same between them all....but yea, if the overall width is different, maybe inner tie rods could be swapped. part numbers are different, but look at the pics of them. these are both moogs. EA82: EJ: I'm also curious about the XT6 stuff. can you run the XT6 rack in a standard EA82? what about the pump? will it work with ATF? I'm confused by that.

has it been done? not that I can think of. I drove a impreza wagon with a Q-rack quick ratio steering rack today.....I have to have one!!! so while on this road trip (coming back from the Gravity Park rally, see Rally/Racing section for that thread), I started thinking about what it would take. things we know. -splines on the shaft are the same (people have used outback shafts for lifted Ea82s) -power steering lines are in the same place and have the same threads -tie rods have the same thread pitch -mounting points are very similar (EJ rack bushings have been used on Ea82s. I believe). my concerns: -track width. this shouldn't be an issue since I'm using EA81 rod ends, there's lots of adjustment left (I would assume the EJ rack/rods to be longer/wider). -mounting bracket LOCATIONS. even if they're similar enough to be usable, their location might complicate things thoughts? I am still going to sell my car (if I can). but I also still plan to build another EA82 within a year or so. and this is something I would like to include in the build.

video (impact not included....hopefully that's coming later)

We just got back this morning from running the Gravity Park Rally stages in Chilton, WI. we had an absolutely awesome time, and finished again. The event is held on a motocross track and small circle track next to it, the rally course weaves around the motocross jumps, and on the 3rd to last turn of the first rally, our driver turned a moment too soon, and went over one of the dirt-bike obstacles. 3 large jumps in quick succession (meant to jump off the first, over the second, and land on the third). he went up the first, nosedived into the second, and then again into the third. he was able to drive it out, and finish the rally. and luckily service was close. subframe tweaked, lower radiator support pushed up/back about 6 inches, upper radiator support pushed up a few inches, lower radiator hose kinked. we managed to get things pryed out and the hose trimmed enough that it would work in the 15 minute service window to get it out for the next rally and avoid a DNF. anyway, for the good stuff. here it is in service right before the start of the event. the course was extremely rough, so we cranked the suspension up as far as we dared (about an inch higher than we had it at Nemadji). a Mk V Gti made an appearance. he didn't pass tech on a little technicality, so he just ran as the 0 car. our crew chief finding a good vantage point over the circle track the damage: alfalfa and dandelion death (the road between the circle track and motox track went through an alfalfa field). Earning our "Ziptie Rally" name bent car is bent: at the motel that night. a couple short cell phone video clips. rally 1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5xRr1BQzoY rally 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9m_UQP4O5U I had my DV camera on them when the damage was done. footage should be posted soon

looks like an EJ257 and 6MT :slobber:

it's using the stock upper shock bracket. Ea82s don't have a torsion bar.

EVERYTHING I've heard over the years from various sources (with the exception of post #14 of this thread) say that the pinion shaft must match the center diff. putting 4.111s and 4.444s in an EA D/R case isn't news. but every time I've heard of it, it's been with an EJ VLSD center diff. in fact, I think there were pictures of it not too long ago (but probably saved to the old image gallery....so no longer hosted online) comparing an EA 5MT FT4WD pinion to an EJ 5MT AWD pinion, and the EA one was about 3 inches longer.

not necessarily bad. but defeats the purpose. it drastically limited what little suspension travel there is, and therefore greatly reduce the offroad capability. the only upside would be that you can haul more stuff without squishing the suspension. but you'll still squish the car. it isn't a truck. it won't hold up to hauling real heavy loads for very long.

homework? since you've done yours, what spring rate are those? you may have gotten lucky and gotten a set with a reasonable spring rate, but more than likely, your sidewalls are smoothing out the bumps (I, admittedly, didn't notice that your wagon was lifted......hope you don't do any wheeling that requires full suspension travel.....) I ran generic (said "R1 Racing" on the box....I've not seen anything by that name since) sleeves for about 2 years on my wagon that looked almost identical to the ones you have. 2 were 450 lb/in, and the other 2 were 500. I usually ran the stiffer ones in the rear, but it didn't really make much difference. I ran them on numerous different shock setups, 4-lug, 5-lug, stock subaru rears, monroes, and then on to the miata setup. I finally ditched them when they broke the shock rod on one of my miata shocks. I have been running Ground-Control ones with genuine Eibach springs 250 lb/in in front and 275 in the rear for about a year now. I've been doing nothing but homework over the last couple years trying to find a decent dampening option to go with the springs. finally got an application that works like it should, hope to actually drop the cash on KYB AGXs, so I'll at least have some adjustability. but even then, it'll just be a generic "stiffness" dampening adjustability. a true fully adjustable setup would allow ride height adjustment without effecting spring preload. separate bound and rebound adjustments on the shocks, etc. if you'd done your homework, you would have seen these.....but then, you wouldn't be telling me off. so here are some shots of some of the setups I've experimented with over the last 4 years or so. stock impreza, R1 sleeve, GC8 STi "pink" spring EA82, BE Legacy with this setup, I was constantly bottoming out the stock rear shocks: NA Miata rear, EA82 rear, NA Miata front, BE Legacy rear: R1 sleeve, NA miata rear shock, EA82 upper mount: on the car: too much preload (NB miata front shock with 12" long eibach spring): 12" springs and EA82 shocks (these happen to be Monroes): EA82 rear vs NB Miata front: Ground-control sleeves: mounted on the miata shock in my wagon: 12" eibach springs and KYB GR2s that currently reside in the rear of my XT6: welcome to the site. but be careful who you tell to do their homework EDIT: lol @ the king

generic coilover sleeves are hardly fully adjustable. they're a good option, but really only ideal for slamming a car. most of them are faaaaar to stiff to yield good performance results on anything but a perfectly flat course. and shocks stiff enough to accompany them don't really exist for older subarus.

took it wheelin today. spent almost 8 hours on the trails (not counting the hour for lunch...). just awesome. I never got to wheel all day in the subarus, it was usually 4 hours, and then 4 hours to limp it home after whatever I broke (usually about an hour drive at the speed limit). some pictures from the day, not really any action shots, it was cold and I was driving most of the time....but a few poser shots: aftermath: more: http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c108/Numbchux/wheeling/open%20house%2009/

yea, the taper washers on the hub studs were a pain when I took apart the parts truck last fall. only a couple of them (total) came out on their own, but I was able to pull all 6 nuts off, and use a hammer to jostle the hub around, and then they came loose enough that I could take the whole assembly out.

'bout sums it up.....looks awesome!

That's an awesome idea!! and....lookie here. I've got extra yota rotors and many subie calipers (even XT6 ones....). once I get my spare axle torn down, maybe I'll mock it all up....