Numbchux

meh, if you've still got a working fan, you could put a dozen lights up there and not really have an issue (with airflow anyway.....your alternator would probably implode though....)

I did a clutch on my lifted wagon by dropping the trans a few years ago. probably took me 10-12 hours total, over the course of 2 days. didn't even have to lift it off the ground. left the axles in the hubs, just lowered the trans, then slid it to one side and pulled one axle off, and to the other for the other side. and ditto to put them on before lifting the trans back up. mine was a 4" lifted EA82 on 28" tires, and with the trans rolled on it's side a bit on a mechanics creeper, I was able to roll it out from under the car without jacking the car up at all. a tip, when it comes time to put the trans back in. use a jack and wood blocks on the oil pan to tilt the engine back a bit. it'll make aligning the clutch 1 billion times easier. ratchet straps are awesome for this. I used one from the strut towers and down under the front of the trans, and a floor jack under the back. don't forget to drain the fluid before you start lowering. if you don't, when you slip and the back ends up a bit lower than the front, and it starts dumping gear oil out the rear output all over you chest, you'll spend days trying to get the smell of gear oil out of your skin. go ahead....ask me how I know

my last response in this thread. and if that wasn't enough.....here are a few places where it and other files can be found: http://http://offroadingsubarus.com/downloads/EA2EJ.pdf http://http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/mroseusa/EA2EJ.pdf http://http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676

the EA axles won't work with the EJ hubs.....so yea, you'll need the EJ axles.

yep, push some water back through it (opposite from normal flow....), that'll clear any large deposits out.

oem tstats aren't terribly expensive. do it right and be done with it. running an engine below operating temp is bad juju

wrong side for torque converter bolts (unless EA82 4EAT torque converters are entirely different than 3AT or EJ 4EATs.....). starter hole is great for pressure plate bolts though! there is an access hole on the bellhousing of the EJ. should have a rubber cap over it. easily seen in this [blurry] pic of my EJ22 shortblock:

well.....off the top of my head... XT6 and EA82 calipers are interchangeable. baccaruda found an EJ-series (from an early legacy, IIRC) caliper bracket that allowed him to use XT6 calipers with his EJ knuckles. thus keeping the front ebrake even with the EJ axles and such. SO, I would assume that the reverse could be done. mount an EJ-series caliper to an EA bracket..... and yea, I've had trouble with those. the mechanism seizes up. had one car get so bad, that if I set the ebrake, I had to turn the wheel, reach behind it, and manually release the brake......not fun.

yea, TOTALLY depends on the price of the parts. which entirely depends on what you use and where/how you get them.

I understand the strut itself isn't vertical. but the strut top is moved straight down. if the block didn't have offset, the top would be moved out. and yea, I understand the existence of camber, and that it's there. but I've had a couple lifted EA82s. one on 27.5" tires and the other on 29s. drove them both for many tens of thousands of miles, never noticed any wear like that. so I really don't think this is just stock geometry amplified. I am curious how the toe is. has it been aligned at all? I think some toe-in could cause the issues you're seeing.

I'm fairly sure 15 degrees only compensates for the angle at which the strut top is at, and therefore moves the strut top straight down. I can't think of a way that the caster would have changed with the lift, but the camber definitely would have. I've easily driven 100k miles between my EA82s with stock Caster angles and never noticed anything like that.

ding ding ding! the angle of the control arms pulls the bottom of the knuckle in towards the car, giving it more static camber. to fix it right....you have to drop the crossmember. IMHO, just a one inch difference will keep camber at a reasonable amount, and you could do one inch blocks on the engine crossmember, and leave the tranny up as-stock. yea, you could extend the control arms, but your axles would still be at that angle, so you'd then extend the DOJs a bit, which means they'll be weaker.

EJ control arms are completely different. EJ/XT6 ball joints are larger and will not seat in EA control arm. an XT6 control arm will bridge the gap, bolting perfectly up to EA82 suspension, but having the larger ball joint hole. you could ream out the EA82 control arm. or another option (and pictures of an EJ ball joint in an EA82 control arm) here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97074

meh. gearing issues are essentially moot. with the torque of an EJ22, the extra gear isn't really an advantage, and you'll be able to use the top gear of either trans. I would definitely still recommend the 5MT though, just for the far-superior linkage and synchros.

welcome to the forums. all the information you seek is already here. and you'll want to study it all before you try anything that in-depth.

you definitely can use those legacy struts and knuckles. I've heard that XT6 calipers bolt right up to EJ knuckles. but can't confirm. you will want to use the XT6 rotors though, as their a slightly different diameter. strut top differences are only a few mm. I was able to get the EJ top hats onto my loyale without any modification, and a few seconds with the dremel on my XT6.

that should be plenty of clearance in the back, since the suspension will swing towards the back as it compresses.

I've put a long bolt in there, heck, I've run without the pin for months on the fronts (don't do it in the back though.....there is enough play for them to fall off......go ahead, ask me how I know).

Save money and headache by re-booting/rebuilding your own axles, instead of buying remanufactured ones that are likely to fail in short order. you will need a couple specialty tools to complete the project that you wouldn't need for the removal of the axle. These are a snapring pliers and a CV Boot clamp tool. with some patience and cussing, the snapring can be removed without the tool, but the cost is worth it, even if you only use it once. the clamp tool can be rented from some stores. Both are readily available at any auto parts store for less than $10 each: DSCF0669 by Numbchux, on Flickr you'll also want a roll of paper/shop towels nearby. as there's a lot of grease in there that'll need to be cleaned out. and a good hand cleaner and a solvent. NOTE: it is possible to replace only the DOJ/SFJ boot (on the tranny/diff side), but it's only about 5-10 minutes extra work and $5-10 extra cost to replace the outer while you're at it. whereas you have to do the whole project to replace the outer boot. so just do it while you're at it, and then you don't have to worry about it! first, remove the axle. This is a fairly common topic, and write-ups for your specific subaru can be found all over the internet. once you've got the axle out, and on the bench (or the floor....). Start the disassembly. DSCF0664 by Numbchux, on Flickr now you'll need to remove the clamps: DSCF0665 by Numbchux, on Flickr For future reference, this inner joint, with the squared off cups is a DOJ (double-offset joint) or SFJ (Shuderless Freering tripod Joint) on newer models. both of these designs allow the axle to telescope, and change length a bit. this can be done with a cutoff wheel, tin snips, but I prefer to pry the clamp apart with a chisel or screwdriver: DSCF0667 by Numbchux, on Flickr This outer joint is a CVJ (Constant Velocity Joint), it does not telescope, but does allow higher angles without binding. DSCF0668 by Numbchux, on Flickr now pull the boot back from the axle cup: DSCF0671 by Numbchux, on Flickr ewwww....that grease is very contaminated and worn out. once most of the grease is cleaned out, use a screwdriver (or tip of a pliers, or even a pen...) to pry the circlip out of the axle cup: DSCF0672 by Numbchux, on Flickr then pull the joint out of the axle cup: DSCF0675 by Numbchux, on Flickr now, if your joint looks like this, you have an SFJ, which doesn't need to be disassembled. skip the next few steps to pulling the snapring off: 2017-08-04_10-14-35 by Numbchux, on Flickr here are the components of a DOJ, cleaned, layed out, and labeled: DSCF0681 by Numbchux, on Flickr wipe some of the grease off, and then rock the retainer back and forth to force the balls out: DSCF0676 by Numbchux, on Flickr once all 6 balls are out, rotate the retainer a bit, and slip it off the inner race onto the shaft: DSCF0677 by Numbchux, on Flickr then use your snapring pliers to remove the snapring: DSCF0678 by Numbchux, on Flickr DSCF0679 by Numbchux, on Flickr then you can slide the inner race off the shaft. at this point, be sure to take note of which side goes where. the first time I did this, I used a couple dabs of white-out on one side of the race and retainer so I knew how it went. now slide both boots off the shaft. now comes the task of cleaning out the CVJ. this is a little more difficult, as it cannot easily be disassembled (I know it's possible....but I've never done it without destroying it). this one is pretty nasty, dried up and crusted with dirt. DSCF0682 by Numbchux, on Flickr I prefer to work some petroleum based hand cleaner (like Goop or Gojo......make sure to get the petroleum version. easiest way to tell is look at the directions for use. if step one is something like "do not wet hands", you've got the right stuff), and work that into the joint: DSCF0683 by Numbchux, on Flickr then rinse it repeatedly with a solvent (gas works....if nothing else) DSCF0684 by Numbchux, on Flickr once cleaned out, you should be able to move it around fairly easily. don't be alarmed if it binds up while dry. it takes quite a lot to damage these irreparably, once you've worked some grease in there, it should free up quite a bit. now to put it back together. fill the CVJ with grease (go ahead and use the whole pack), and then slide the boot on the shaft. then the small clamp. next slide the other smaller clamp, and the inner boot. now slide the retainer on, followed by the inner race (make sure both are facing the right direction....remember those marks you made?). then install the snapring, and re-assemble the retainer and 6 balls (again, not necessary if you have an SFJ). DSCF0202 by Numbchux, on Flickr put the joint into the axle cup, and re-install the circlip. now, open your other pack of grease and put a bunch in the axle cup, and the rest in the boot. slide the boot onto the cup, seat the boots in the indents on the shaft/cups for the clamps. now install and tighten the clamps. and you're done! DSCF0203 by Numbchux, on Flickr now move the joints through their range of motion repeatedly to work the grease into the joints. re-install in the car. and enjoy!

talked to a local buddy today. he's parting out a first-gen legacy. so I'll grab the rack from that. sometime in the next month, or so, I'll be swapping the motor, PS pump and lines anyway, so I'll see how close the fit is.

yep, I remember you had said that. which is a huge start. some great info here! hopefully I can run out to the junkyard and get some more information tomorrow.

the few times I've done it. I've left them as they were.....with zero problems.

no. not even similar

yea, I just meant using a standard belt-driven pump with the XT6 rack.... anyway. just got an email back from q-rack. they say they make no external modifications to the rack. so if an EJ series rack fits, theirs will too. so, after studying some FSMs. looks like the XT racks are a 17:1 ratio (XT6 is not any quicker, even though it's 3.2 turns lock to lock, instead of 3.7. so I suspect the '6 can't turn as sharp). looks like most other EJs are in the 15-20 range. '04 STi is 2.7 turns lock-to-lock (no ratio shown). the q-rack offers 12.5:1 and 11.5:1 versions both about 2.4 turns.