Numbchux

^ummm...no. fabbing a crossmember might be easy if you have easy access to a welder and a competent person to operate it. I am neither. $10 for a dremel bit, and about 20 minutes, and I've got a modified flywheel. EA82 and EJ use very different tranny crossmembers. I don't know how difficult it would be to make an EA82 one work, but it won't be bolt-up. the EJs use a 3-piece xmember setup like XT6s, which require 2 mounting points to the body. I don't think the rear points even exist on an EA81. not to mention linkage (I believe has to be shortened....but don't quote me on it). cost of adapter plate vs cost of transmission, xmembers, axles (and probably custom races to put 25 spline axle cups on EA81 shafts), and linkage mods. and an EJ setup would require a new clutch anyway, so you're not really saving any money there, just opening up options.

that happened with the '86 that I did last fall. there's a vapor separator back near the tank that separates the fuel from the return line and the air for the vent line to the canister. I'm guess the increased flow from swapping from a carbed engine to a MPFI one caused it to piss fuel through the vent line. I drove it for a couple weeks leaving the gas cap loose (would release the pressure in the tank...), and it fixed it self. after that I could drive it with the cap tight, and it would not push fuel through the canister anymore.

EA82 and XT6 pressure plates are virtually identical except clamping force. I don't know exactly what's required to use either with an EA81 trans (IIRC you'll need a Nissan Throwout bearing or something....), but I know it's possible.

absolutely awesome! good work!

XT6 pressure plate is not required, but is a good idea. I used a standard EA82 clutch kit for awhile with my EJ22, it held, but definitely wore out prematurely. FYI, many companies use the same pressure plate for XT6s and EA82ts.

I suppose it could if you've got too much suspension lift. but, for the most part, it's prolonged high-speed use at moderate angle that kills them much quicker than momentary extreme angle at slow speed (only exception was my blue wagon, 5" of shock extension, 1" diff blocks, popped 2 rear axles in 2 days on the trail).

a thread from not too long ago on this topic, with my thoughts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93624

no....they're really not I think my Yota, with stock drivetrain and the Auto trans has like a 40:1.

they won't. although even if they did, I don't know how that would help....

not really, no. if you were swapping to 5-lug, you could use XT6 hubs, and then modify the legacy backing plates to mount to the loyale trailing arms, and then use the legacy rotors and calipers. but if you're staying 4-lug, just grab an EA82t rear disc setup. they usually sell here for much less than those new drums.

ah, then yes. I'm using a borla aftermarket header, and then '98 Cali-spec (3 cats) Legacy GT cat- and mid-pipes.

I've never seen pinouts for the engine harness plugs, specifically. But the FSMs have great pinouts for the ECU plugs and very clear diagrams for the whole engine control system. everything you seek can be found there. '92 legacy diagram can be found here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm and I need to add this to that page. ECU voltage pinout: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf

3rded. I've not done it, but my mechanical instinct says very bad idea!! heck, individual blocks, even steel ones, are a pretty bad idea (I had all 3 captive nuts on both sides where the radius rod mounts rip out of the frame rails. PITA!!). if this was just for looks and this vehicle would only see gentleish street use, it'd probably be fine. but for the strains of wheeling.....Those captive nuts are the weak link, anything you can do to reinforce them is a good idea.

^doug has had a few different IC setups. put together a list of all the parts I need yet....the number at the end scared me a bit. probably won't be done as soon as I had hoped. unless I can find a cheaper clutch that will work well. anyway, a few more pictures... case split: soaking the halves in the wash tub: a little SeaFoam and a wire-wheel shined up the pistons real nice once clean, the scoring on the #2 piston skirt looks better. but still kinda nasty. but doesn't interfere with the ringlands at all....so I don't think it'll be an issue. although does make me happy that I pulled the shortblock apart. got bored last night. so I put the intake mani and heads together and used some crap from around the basement to do a little mockup to plan out my intake. then I put the cam pulleys on the heads, and used that as a reference for where the blower pulley should be. left to right. 1. this piece is laying across the tops of the heads, referencing where the bottom of the blower will be. 2. representing the timing belt location 3. representing the alt, PS, and blower belt location the Air-Water intercooler I'm planning on using is 13.5" long. I was able to get just over this between the output on the blower and the throttle body. my high-pressure intake track is just going to be 2 90 degree couplers and the IC. pretty sweet!

we don't. That is the #1 goal this year. finishing. a 136awhp STi sounds funny on paper. but it's lighter and probably 30+awhp more powerful than my wagon. not to mention the suspension and brake advantages. yea, I know we could get in trouble. really hoping we don't end up having to do "quick" replacements of any major suspension components.....but I doubt we'll be so lucky.

that is the truth of the situation. if all the public locations are closed off, illegal/destructive use will go up exponentially....

yea, I'm heavily into the politics as well. the state of MN is the 3rd largest land owner in the US. after the federal gov't, and the state of AK. yet, we have ONE decent state owned ORV park (there are a couple other places where there are a few marked trails, but they're no tougher than your average minimum maintence road. 4WD not necessary). AND almost every private location has been shut down by the state. it's a PR campaign. just like you said, those aiming the ammo at us will not look at the trespassing part, but the destruction, and point that same finger at those of us who are careful. So we have to be very careful at what we make public. even if you were out wheeling on private property with full permission. if it can be used against us, keep it to yourself....I do

that's exactly right. the big picture issue is the tree huggers trying to keep us off/out of everything. these morons have just given them more ammo to use against those of us who use our own vehicles and our own land or designated ORV land.

yea, I can't wait. I think it'll be extremely fun. and if all goes well this year, I hope to stay on next year..... anyway, I'll be sure to keep you guys updated. either event by event, or I'll just start a general ziptie rally thread. and yea, there's a story and a bunch of pictures on his site (ziptierally.com). or his build thread here: http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29225

This last weekend, I joined up with some local MN guys who have been working hard over the last 6 months or so to turn an '04 STi into a stage rally machine. I'll be joining them for 7 events this summer (I'll probably be there for all of them) working in the crew to keep it up and running. Because this is our first year in the RallyAmerica circuit, due to licensing, we cannot run with a turbo engine. so they pulled it apart and put some 11:1 Wiseco pistons in the engine, and it's currently putting down 136/136 hp/tq so we've nicknamed it the SlowTi! It's also got WRX 4pot/2pot brakes so we can step down in wheel size (currently have a few sets of RS 16x7s, and a couple sets of Team Dynamics 15s). The Brembos that were on this car are now on the Grimmspeed track car (which I did the wiring for it's '05 WRX swap). Anyway, watch for the Ziptie rally car this year. We probably won't be terribly competitive, as we'll just be trying to survive and earn enough coefficients to re-turbo the car for next year. But if any of you come out to the events, be sure to introduce yourself! http://www.ziptierally.com we'll be running: Nemadji Trail 1 in Duquette, MN Gravity park 1&2 in Chilton, WI Nemadji Trail 2 Duquette Nemadji Trail 3 Ojibwe Forests in Bemidji, MN Lake Superior Pro Rally in Houghton, MI and Rallye de Paris, in Paris, TX a total of 23 Coefficients available, if we finish all the races. we "only" need 18 to get the appropriate licensing to run a turbo car next year.

4 inch lift. 2 inch exhaust

agreed. a carbed EJ22 has some decent potential. but the factory ECU is pretty smart. able to keep AFRs in the best range throughout the revs, and the ignition allows a lot more advance than a disty would ever allow. I highly doubt anyone could get more power out of a carb than the FI.

as mentioned....no need for higher revs and different ignition system with an EJ22 (both would require a stand-alone ECU, which is a huge can of worms as far as cost and effort is concerned). some Phenolic intake mani spacers (Grimmspeed.com please tell them Chux sent you if you can.....having some problems with Mr Grimm and any referrals would be helpful. Great products though!), throttle body spacer (I nabbed a Group A one on ebay for fairly cheap), and some Delta cams will give it lots of low end torque, which is crucial for wheeling a subaru, since the gearing sux..... Although you could throw a Diamond (stock on 5MT legacies, IIRC) coil pack and some Magnecor 8mm plug wires on there...that'd make sure those properly-gapped NGK plugs (right?) fire as hot as possible. power-wise, that's pretty much exactly the setup that I'll be running in my wagon this summer (well.....with Delta ported heads, a Link standalone ECU and a supercharger too.....). 5-lug is another giant can of worms that is entirely un-necessary for a wheeler. The parts are rare and expensive, and only offer big brakes and stiffer suspension, and the stuff already available for 4-lug is plenty. Grab a rear disc swap, and redrill the hubs to 6-lug, bolt some Toyota 15s (or similar...) on there, and call it a day.

parts purchasing is still mostly on hold. picking up some new fenders and other cosmetic parts in the Cities this weekend. but next paycheck.....should mostly go to rebuild parts. either that or I'll save up to put towards sending my Heads/cams to Delta But, did some work tonight. Basement looked like this when I came up awhile ago: cut the un-needed parts off the supercharger plenums (see the whole parts bolted to the blower above): now looks like this: keeping the little piece to help pull air around the corner (I don't know if it's really necessary....but mercedes thought it should be there......so I'll leave it). and this: also cut a piece of sheet aluminum to block off the hole on the high-pressure side: was going to alumiweld it on there.....but couldn't get it hot enough. might have to find a better way to insulate it from the vise. got the freeze plug out: and block heater ready to go in: got the rear access panels off: so, what the heck, pulled the pistons too: 1 & 3 2 & 4 some scoring on the skirt of #2. but not too bad (almost cannot be felt....I bet once I clean it up, you'll hardly be able to see it) topside of #4 cylinder #2 some signs of contact/friction. but not any deeper than the crosshatching. so I think some fresh rings/hone will solve that "issue". next I have to buy a 12-point 12mm to split the case. then the parts to reassemble....

my track tires are 225/55r16. And they're big. it's been so long since I've had a stock-height subaru, it's hard to say how much clearance you'll have, but I'll tell you they won't tuck in the fender wells easily (and not with 4-lug wheels, you won't get the offset right). I had them on stock WRX wheels last summer, and the offset was too high, and they rubbed on the trailing arms in the back, with very little clearance between the tire and the fender. go out with a measuring tool, and see if you've got enough room for the tire to be that much bigger in every dimension, and assume that it will hit the edge of the fender.