Numbchux

I hear they machine them down over in Oz..... and yea, your ratios should be fine.

yes, the step is the mating surface. yes, it is different between EA82 and XT6. but an ER27 clutch can be used with an EA82 flywheel/dimensions just fine. AFAIK, the only effective difference is the weight.

well' date=' just to throw a monkey wrench in that. the center LSD is pretty damn strong. When Austin and I went wheeling up here in MN a few years ago, he got high-centered in his impreza. both rear wheels on the ground, with quite a bit of weight on them, but the fronts were in the air. he was still able to dig a hole in the back....IMHO, if you're not going to weld the rear, you won't need the locked center. the center diff is pretty much my biggest frustration with my loyale. the full-locked center induces understeer at RallyX and ice racing tracks (can't use the e-brake for tight turns either), and the open diff just allows lots of front wheelspin on AutoX courses. agreed....my next project (when my EJ trans gets here) is to pull it apart and swap the 5th gear for the tallest ratio I can find (WRX), hoping for awesome freeway gears too. I'm more than a little nervous about tearing into a tranny

WOW!!!!! @$%@%^@$%, does that look hot or what!!! crap, excuse me. I have to go change pants

sounds like it was installed correctly, some play is normal. I hope someone has another soluction....but it really just sounds like it's a bad bearing. did you put a new one in? what kind was it?

http://specclutch.com/cars/Subaru/Leone__Loyale/1989/Single wish they had torque ratings......but no such luck. I was going to run a spec clutch on my new setup, but then decided to go EJ.... tex, only difference between EA82 and ER27 flywheels is the weight. ER27 clutch will work with an EA82 flywheel perfectly. also, some manufacturers (Beck/Arnley for sure, I've used 2 of their setups in EJ22 swaps) use the same part for turbo or XT6.

of course not. but the pinion shaft and driven shaft are very much 2 pieces. I'm talking about using all EA gearsets with the EJ pinion shaft. shift collar/synchro differences are not an issue. and yea, 1.59:1 won't clear 4.111 ring gear without modification, ring gear can be machined down, or a 3.9 will have to be used (or 1.196:1 low). but, like I said, EA82t 5th gear + 4.111 would be miserable on the freeway!! there's no real "easy" answer to all this. but you definitely could get a pretty badass setup with the parts you have.

yep, FT4WD/AWD driven shafts and pinion shafts are 2 pieces, one inside the other. 27mm nut on the end, and they come apart, pretty easily. no press needed, I think I had to give mine a little tap with a hammer.....but it really was a little tap, no pounding. pics of the one I have in the basement. this is all out of a '93 legacy 4.111 trans. assembled, see the 2 sets of splines on the end? the one on the end is the pinion, the other is the tranny "output" (it drives the center diff). disassembled: AFAIK, you can use the driven shaft (the hollow one) from the FT4WD trans (this is why it has to be the FT4WD one, as the PT4WD ones are one piece...), with the EJ pinion through it, and EJ center diff. my only concern is gearing. the EA82t .871 5th gear with anything shorter than a 3.7 diff ratio is going to turn some really high rpms unless you're running big tires (my loyale currently has .871, 3.7, and 26.2" tires, and still turns over 3k rpms at 70 mph. with stock tires, it was almost 4k!)

he's talking about a legacy. so 5-lug.

they're really not. the pinion shaft is a separate piece from the driven shaft. separating them is not hard at all. I have not been able to get more than just 5th gear off the shafts, even with my el cheapo press. so you may want to have a pro do that.... but, you could have the gearsets ready to go, then all you'd have to swap is the pinion and diffs, which do not need a press or anything. I could easily do it in less time than the local driveline shop could have my driveshaft modified. so as far as downtime is concerned, I know this would be faster in my case. also, by using the EJ center diff/case extension, the EJ tranny mount bolts right up, so no custom crossmember.

no, grounding it will tell it that it's in neutral. it needs to be a changing signal (not sure how much it cares that the signal matches with the rpms....). I THINK your car should have a switch on the clutch pedal, I'm fairly sure my '85 did. otherwise, grab one off a later EA82. or hide the CEL and ignore it. it won't effect functionality at all. and yep.

^correct although, AFAIK EA82 5MT D/R 4WD stock tire size is 185/70r13, which is ~23.2"

he's using an EA81 box with an EA82 pressure plate. I'm no expert, but I thought this was do-able, but a throwout from a nissan pickup was needed to make it work. :confused:

adapter plate EA82 D/R front case halves EA82 D/R input shaft with EA82 FT4WD drive gears EA82 FT4WD driven shaft. EJ center diff and it's housing EJ pinion (has to match the center diff) EJ front diff EJ axle stubs EJ driveshaft EJ linkage. done. can't use the center diff/pinion/front diff from your trans? if it's really just a synchro problem, you wouldn't need to buy anything extra. if downtime is your concern, you could still assemble the main shafts/gearsets before pulling the EJ out, then just pull the center off, split the case, swap pinion/front diff, assemble the case, assemble the tranny, re-install. I'd be it'd take less time than having a driveshaft modified.

yep, as mentioned, reed switch = VSS. I believe if you follow the wire on the EJ22 diagrams it's marked as a reed switch there too. AFAIK, inhibitor switch is AT only. won't effect anything at all neutral switch can be hooked up to a clutch switch or neutral switch on the trans (if your trans is the '86, it won't have it). if your ECU is properly designated "MT", this will throw a code. on the '86 I did last summer (dhise has it now), I hooked the CEL wire to the signal wire on the ECS light on the dash (on the right side, by the charge light). polarity was the same, light already had power, just needed a ground signal (did the same with the oil light on the other side). on my loyale, I just used a dash backlight from my parts pile and wired a light in the loom. it can be seen under the dash just as easily as the light on the EA82 ECU, but not easily while driving (at night you can see the glow on your feet...but it isn't annoying). it's nice not to have to look at it all the time, since I've never bothered to hook up the neutral switch. I can't think of anything else, although if something else needs attention, it'll probably throw a code.....

meh, as long as you've got an impact wrench to use it with (so it won't slip off one side when you crank on it), it should work fine. has for mine, even if it's chewed up.

exactly right.....although, I wouldn't call them "slightly" different. it's a fairly complicated project, but I think the results would be worth it. actually, i think the best would be the D/R, but with the EJ center diff and pinion. the FT4WD center is more than a little annoying, I don't think the slight improvement in off-road capability (locked vs LSD) is worth the sacrifice in on-road traction (open vs LSD). this would also allow you to use the un-modified EJ driveshaft/linkage (just have to fab something for the hi-lo shifter, but you'd be able to use EJ 5MT linkage....meaning real-live upgrades are a possibility.

yessir:)

did you ground the AT/MT identification pin (pin 20 on B48)? sounds like it still thinks it's hooked up to an AT.

"not having the right tool is OK. just like holding a purse in the women's underwear section of a department store is OK" I've done it more than a few times without.....it's a royal pain. I've always used the punch and a hammer on the notches in the retainer to rotate it a little at a time until it's removed. once it's out a bit, the punch or screwdriver from the side to rotate it further. it's an enormous pain, but it works. IMHO, worth every penny... http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 the "one piece" bearing you ordered *should* have 2 tapered bearing sets in it like the old one. the difference comes in the inner and outer race configuration. you really should remove the old outer race (probably 3 piece, possibly one), hydraulic press is definitely the best way, but a large hammer will work (air hammer better). pound the spindle out of the bearing (towards the diff, do it before removing the retainer nut and the inner race will come off the spindle and stay in the bearing). remove the retainer. place your 36mm socket on the inner race from the outside, and pound the whole assembly out of the trailing arm. "installation is the reverse of removal" as it were..... it's a large project. although, the fact that you can get the axles off the splines means things aren't rusted on there too tight, which is an enormous help, but you've still got it in for you. picture of the spindle with and without the inner races/bearings I just got my hands on another pair of trailing arms, maybe I'll pull the bearings out and take a crapload of pictures and make a how-to writeup.

agreed, did it on my old blue wagon, added the '85-'86 squirters in addition to the thru hood ones.....yea, could really soak the mud off. although, going for the clean look on the loyale, swapped the hood and squirters from my '85 on it

the ECUs are identical. there's a couple wires that need to be swapped around to tell it that it's connected to a 5MT. no big deal. I've put almost 40k miles on my EJ22 Loyale since the swap, donor was a FWD 4EAT, now attached to a FT4WD 5MT.

only difference between 22e and 22t pistons is the shape (compression....), and I want 9.5:1. since I'll only be boosting ~6psi, and I'd like to be able to cruise on the freeway with the blower off....7.7:1 would not do so well. with a standalone, I'll easily be able to tune for the high compression. full planned build list, including details (link) about the AWIC I plan to use in post #1 of this thread.

that's what worked on mine. someone suggested when I posted about that problem ~6 months ago that the separator was just gummed up because there wasn't much gas flowing through it before, but whatever was blocking it just dissolved in the gas (I added a little seafoam, which probably helped too), and the problem literally cleared itself up! no guarantees, but it worked for me...it's worth a try. first thing to try is when it is puking gas out, go loosen the cap and see if there's an unusual amount of pressure in the tank. That was the first thing I noticed, when I went to get gas, you could hear a crapload of pressure being released from the tank.

Welcome to the USMB!!!! all of what you've talked about has been done or discussed, most of which at great length. There's a thread stickied to the top of this section with a list of those of us who have done major projects like this, have a look through there, if you see a setup you like, start searching for posts by that person. also look for threads about 5-lug swaps. there are many about this (specifically, a thread in the USRM suspension/steering section, and a thread in this section by Poormanzimpreza with tons of pictures of everything involved).