Numbchux

meh, as long as you've got an impact wrench to use it with (so it won't slip off one side when you crank on it), it should work fine. has for mine, even if it's chewed up.

exactly right.....although, I wouldn't call them "slightly" different. it's a fairly complicated project, but I think the results would be worth it. actually, i think the best would be the D/R, but with the EJ center diff and pinion. the FT4WD center is more than a little annoying, I don't think the slight improvement in off-road capability (locked vs LSD) is worth the sacrifice in on-road traction (open vs LSD). this would also allow you to use the un-modified EJ driveshaft/linkage (just have to fab something for the hi-lo shifter, but you'd be able to use EJ 5MT linkage....meaning real-live upgrades are a possibility.

yessir:)

did you ground the AT/MT identification pin (pin 20 on B48)? sounds like it still thinks it's hooked up to an AT.

"not having the right tool is OK. just like holding a purse in the women's underwear section of a department store is OK" I've done it more than a few times without.....it's a royal pain. I've always used the punch and a hammer on the notches in the retainer to rotate it a little at a time until it's removed. once it's out a bit, the punch or screwdriver from the side to rotate it further. it's an enormous pain, but it works. IMHO, worth every penny... http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=275 the "one piece" bearing you ordered *should* have 2 tapered bearing sets in it like the old one. the difference comes in the inner and outer race configuration. you really should remove the old outer race (probably 3 piece, possibly one), hydraulic press is definitely the best way, but a large hammer will work (air hammer better). pound the spindle out of the bearing (towards the diff, do it before removing the retainer nut and the inner race will come off the spindle and stay in the bearing). remove the retainer. place your 36mm socket on the inner race from the outside, and pound the whole assembly out of the trailing arm. "installation is the reverse of removal" as it were..... it's a large project. although, the fact that you can get the axles off the splines means things aren't rusted on there too tight, which is an enormous help, but you've still got it in for you. picture of the spindle with and without the inner races/bearings I just got my hands on another pair of trailing arms, maybe I'll pull the bearings out and take a crapload of pictures and make a how-to writeup.

agreed, did it on my old blue wagon, added the '85-'86 squirters in addition to the thru hood ones.....yea, could really soak the mud off. although, going for the clean look on the loyale, swapped the hood and squirters from my '85 on it

the ECUs are identical. there's a couple wires that need to be swapped around to tell it that it's connected to a 5MT. no big deal. I've put almost 40k miles on my EJ22 Loyale since the swap, donor was a FWD 4EAT, now attached to a FT4WD 5MT.

only difference between 22e and 22t pistons is the shape (compression....), and I want 9.5:1. since I'll only be boosting ~6psi, and I'd like to be able to cruise on the freeway with the blower off....7.7:1 would not do so well. with a standalone, I'll easily be able to tune for the high compression. full planned build list, including details (link) about the AWIC I plan to use in post #1 of this thread.

that's what worked on mine. someone suggested when I posted about that problem ~6 months ago that the separator was just gummed up because there wasn't much gas flowing through it before, but whatever was blocking it just dissolved in the gas (I added a little seafoam, which probably helped too), and the problem literally cleared itself up! no guarantees, but it worked for me...it's worth a try. first thing to try is when it is puking gas out, go loosen the cap and see if there's an unusual amount of pressure in the tank. That was the first thing I noticed, when I went to get gas, you could hear a crapload of pressure being released from the tank.

Welcome to the USMB!!!! all of what you've talked about has been done or discussed, most of which at great length. There's a thread stickied to the top of this section with a list of those of us who have done major projects like this, have a look through there, if you see a setup you like, start searching for posts by that person. also look for threads about 5-lug swaps. there are many about this (specifically, a thread in the USRM suspension/steering section, and a thread in this section by Poormanzimpreza with tons of pictures of everything involved).

^ummm...no. fabbing a crossmember might be easy if you have easy access to a welder and a competent person to operate it. I am neither. $10 for a dremel bit, and about 20 minutes, and I've got a modified flywheel. EA82 and EJ use very different tranny crossmembers. I don't know how difficult it would be to make an EA82 one work, but it won't be bolt-up. the EJs use a 3-piece xmember setup like XT6s, which require 2 mounting points to the body. I don't think the rear points even exist on an EA81. not to mention linkage (I believe has to be shortened....but don't quote me on it). cost of adapter plate vs cost of transmission, xmembers, axles (and probably custom races to put 25 spline axle cups on EA81 shafts), and linkage mods. and an EJ setup would require a new clutch anyway, so you're not really saving any money there, just opening up options.

that happened with the '86 that I did last fall. there's a vapor separator back near the tank that separates the fuel from the return line and the air for the vent line to the canister. I'm guess the increased flow from swapping from a carbed engine to a MPFI one caused it to piss fuel through the vent line. I drove it for a couple weeks leaving the gas cap loose (would release the pressure in the tank...), and it fixed it self. after that I could drive it with the cap tight, and it would not push fuel through the canister anymore.

EA82 and XT6 pressure plates are virtually identical except clamping force. I don't know exactly what's required to use either with an EA81 trans (IIRC you'll need a Nissan Throwout bearing or something....), but I know it's possible.

absolutely awesome! good work!

XT6 pressure plate is not required, but is a good idea. I used a standard EA82 clutch kit for awhile with my EJ22, it held, but definitely wore out prematurely. FYI, many companies use the same pressure plate for XT6s and EA82ts.

I suppose it could if you've got too much suspension lift. but, for the most part, it's prolonged high-speed use at moderate angle that kills them much quicker than momentary extreme angle at slow speed (only exception was my blue wagon, 5" of shock extension, 1" diff blocks, popped 2 rear axles in 2 days on the trail).

a thread from not too long ago on this topic, with my thoughts: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=93624

no....they're really not I think my Yota, with stock drivetrain and the Auto trans has like a 40:1.

they won't. although even if they did, I don't know how that would help....

not really, no. if you were swapping to 5-lug, you could use XT6 hubs, and then modify the legacy backing plates to mount to the loyale trailing arms, and then use the legacy rotors and calipers. but if you're staying 4-lug, just grab an EA82t rear disc setup. they usually sell here for much less than those new drums.

ah, then yes. I'm using a borla aftermarket header, and then '98 Cali-spec (3 cats) Legacy GT cat- and mid-pipes.

I've never seen pinouts for the engine harness plugs, specifically. But the FSMs have great pinouts for the ECU plugs and very clear diagrams for the whole engine control system. everything you seek can be found there. '92 legacy diagram can be found here: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/downloads.htm and I need to add this to that page. ECU voltage pinout: http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/FSMs/1992_Legacy_ECU_I-O.pdf

3rded. I've not done it, but my mechanical instinct says very bad idea!! heck, individual blocks, even steel ones, are a pretty bad idea (I had all 3 captive nuts on both sides where the radius rod mounts rip out of the frame rails. PITA!!). if this was just for looks and this vehicle would only see gentleish street use, it'd probably be fine. but for the strains of wheeling.....Those captive nuts are the weak link, anything you can do to reinforce them is a good idea.

^doug has had a few different IC setups. put together a list of all the parts I need yet....the number at the end scared me a bit. probably won't be done as soon as I had hoped. unless I can find a cheaper clutch that will work well. anyway, a few more pictures... case split: soaking the halves in the wash tub: a little SeaFoam and a wire-wheel shined up the pistons real nice once clean, the scoring on the #2 piston skirt looks better. but still kinda nasty. but doesn't interfere with the ringlands at all....so I don't think it'll be an issue. although does make me happy that I pulled the shortblock apart. got bored last night. so I put the intake mani and heads together and used some crap from around the basement to do a little mockup to plan out my intake. then I put the cam pulleys on the heads, and used that as a reference for where the blower pulley should be. left to right. 1. this piece is laying across the tops of the heads, referencing where the bottom of the blower will be. 2. representing the timing belt location 3. representing the alt, PS, and blower belt location the Air-Water intercooler I'm planning on using is 13.5" long. I was able to get just over this between the output on the blower and the throttle body. my high-pressure intake track is just going to be 2 90 degree couplers and the IC. pretty sweet!

we don't. That is the #1 goal this year. finishing. a 136awhp STi sounds funny on paper. but it's lighter and probably 30+awhp more powerful than my wagon. not to mention the suspension and brake advantages. yea, I know we could get in trouble. really hoping we don't end up having to do "quick" replacements of any major suspension components.....but I doubt we'll be so lucky.