Numbchux

yea, I'm heavily into the politics as well. the state of MN is the 3rd largest land owner in the US. after the federal gov't, and the state of AK. yet, we have ONE decent state owned ORV park (there are a couple other places where there are a few marked trails, but they're no tougher than your average minimum maintence road. 4WD not necessary). AND almost every private location has been shut down by the state. it's a PR campaign. just like you said, those aiming the ammo at us will not look at the trespassing part, but the destruction, and point that same finger at those of us who are careful. So we have to be very careful at what we make public. even if you were out wheeling on private property with full permission. if it can be used against us, keep it to yourself....I do

that's exactly right. the big picture issue is the tree huggers trying to keep us off/out of everything. these morons have just given them more ammo to use against those of us who use our own vehicles and our own land or designated ORV land.

yea, I can't wait. I think it'll be extremely fun. and if all goes well this year, I hope to stay on next year..... anyway, I'll be sure to keep you guys updated. either event by event, or I'll just start a general ziptie rally thread. and yea, there's a story and a bunch of pictures on his site (ziptierally.com). or his build thread here: http://www.mnsubaru.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29225

This last weekend, I joined up with some local MN guys who have been working hard over the last 6 months or so to turn an '04 STi into a stage rally machine. I'll be joining them for 7 events this summer (I'll probably be there for all of them) working in the crew to keep it up and running. Because this is our first year in the RallyAmerica circuit, due to licensing, we cannot run with a turbo engine. so they pulled it apart and put some 11:1 Wiseco pistons in the engine, and it's currently putting down 136/136 hp/tq so we've nicknamed it the SlowTi! It's also got WRX 4pot/2pot brakes so we can step down in wheel size (currently have a few sets of RS 16x7s, and a couple sets of Team Dynamics 15s). The Brembos that were on this car are now on the Grimmspeed track car (which I did the wiring for it's '05 WRX swap). Anyway, watch for the Ziptie rally car this year. We probably won't be terribly competitive, as we'll just be trying to survive and earn enough coefficients to re-turbo the car for next year. But if any of you come out to the events, be sure to introduce yourself! http://www.ziptierally.com we'll be running: Nemadji Trail 1 in Duquette, MN Gravity park 1&2 in Chilton, WI Nemadji Trail 2 Duquette Nemadji Trail 3 Ojibwe Forests in Bemidji, MN Lake Superior Pro Rally in Houghton, MI and Rallye de Paris, in Paris, TX a total of 23 Coefficients available, if we finish all the races. we "only" need 18 to get the appropriate licensing to run a turbo car next year.

4 inch lift. 2 inch exhaust

agreed. a carbed EJ22 has some decent potential. but the factory ECU is pretty smart. able to keep AFRs in the best range throughout the revs, and the ignition allows a lot more advance than a disty would ever allow. I highly doubt anyone could get more power out of a carb than the FI.

as mentioned....no need for higher revs and different ignition system with an EJ22 (both would require a stand-alone ECU, which is a huge can of worms as far as cost and effort is concerned). some Phenolic intake mani spacers (Grimmspeed.com please tell them Chux sent you if you can.....having some problems with Mr Grimm and any referrals would be helpful. Great products though!), throttle body spacer (I nabbed a Group A one on ebay for fairly cheap), and some Delta cams will give it lots of low end torque, which is crucial for wheeling a subaru, since the gearing sux..... Although you could throw a Diamond (stock on 5MT legacies, IIRC) coil pack and some Magnecor 8mm plug wires on there...that'd make sure those properly-gapped NGK plugs (right?) fire as hot as possible. power-wise, that's pretty much exactly the setup that I'll be running in my wagon this summer (well.....with Delta ported heads, a Link standalone ECU and a supercharger too.....). 5-lug is another giant can of worms that is entirely un-necessary for a wheeler. The parts are rare and expensive, and only offer big brakes and stiffer suspension, and the stuff already available for 4-lug is plenty. Grab a rear disc swap, and redrill the hubs to 6-lug, bolt some Toyota 15s (or similar...) on there, and call it a day.

parts purchasing is still mostly on hold. picking up some new fenders and other cosmetic parts in the Cities this weekend. but next paycheck.....should mostly go to rebuild parts. either that or I'll save up to put towards sending my Heads/cams to Delta But, did some work tonight. Basement looked like this when I came up awhile ago: cut the un-needed parts off the supercharger plenums (see the whole parts bolted to the blower above): now looks like this: keeping the little piece to help pull air around the corner (I don't know if it's really necessary....but mercedes thought it should be there......so I'll leave it). and this: also cut a piece of sheet aluminum to block off the hole on the high-pressure side: was going to alumiweld it on there.....but couldn't get it hot enough. might have to find a better way to insulate it from the vise. got the freeze plug out: and block heater ready to go in: got the rear access panels off: so, what the heck, pulled the pistons too: 1 & 3 2 & 4 some scoring on the skirt of #2. but not too bad (almost cannot be felt....I bet once I clean it up, you'll hardly be able to see it) topside of #4 cylinder #2 some signs of contact/friction. but not any deeper than the crosshatching. so I think some fresh rings/hone will solve that "issue". next I have to buy a 12-point 12mm to split the case. then the parts to reassemble....

my track tires are 225/55r16. And they're big. it's been so long since I've had a stock-height subaru, it's hard to say how much clearance you'll have, but I'll tell you they won't tuck in the fender wells easily (and not with 4-lug wheels, you won't get the offset right). I had them on stock WRX wheels last summer, and the offset was too high, and they rubbed on the trailing arms in the back, with very little clearance between the tire and the fender. go out with a measuring tool, and see if you've got enough room for the tire to be that much bigger in every dimension, and assume that it will hit the edge of the fender.

building a harness using an OEM ECU is going to be a project! especially with an OBD II engine. But, you should be able to find what you're looking for here: http://www.northursalia.com/modifications/misc/wiring/wiring.html http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/subbug/manuals.html

sweet! glad to help. what did it turn out to be?

what year EJ22? there are a few different alternator setups. but most work the same way. from the page I include with a new harness: "Large white wire: this is where (as you’ve probably guessed) all the current is. This can be connected directly to the positive battery terminal (a large fusible link is a very good idea), but it might be easiest just to connect directly to the large white wire that went to your old Alt. Yellow wire: This wire is for the voltage regulator. It needs 12v+ when the ignition is on. Very little draw here, so it can come from virtually anywhere. There is an existing wire in the EA harness that will work well for this. Black with White: This is for the charge light on the dash. It will get grounded if the yellow is getting 12v+ but the alt is not charging. Completely optional." if you've got good continuity between the large white wire and the battery. and you've got 12v+ at the yellow wire while the ignition is on. than it's not your wiring.

yea, chevy's have a muuuuuuch lower offset than the subaru wheels. so they won't tuck up into the fenders. but you'll also have more ride height than I do.....

they'd be fine. my summer tires on my wagon are 215s on a 17x8. they don't looked stretched almost at all. actually, the reason I'm stepping down to the 50 series, is my buddy has a set with good tread left for $50 the snow tires on the steelies are 205/65r15s, being the tallest of any of the tires I own now (25.5"). and they fit just fine, with only a hair of rubbing once the rear shocks had gone entirely flat. I may look for some 205/70r15 snows for the XT6 next fall. as long as the wheel offset is high enough (pugs are not), there is a surprising amount of room in those wheel wells.

these? stock WRX wheels and tires. 205/55r16 RE92s. my track tires are 225/55r16s (yes, they fit, even lowered. although rub on the rear trailing arms under hard cornering with the 16x6.5s. they'll be on 16x7s this year). streets are 215/45r17 and snows are 205/65r15.

the bronze WRX wheels have 205/55r16s on them. will be replaced with 205/50r16s this spring.

there's the outback look, still pissed that i sold this car.... and some photoshops of my loyale: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73140 my favorites: currently leaning most towards the green! FYI, those photoshops were made long before I actually owned a complete 5-lug setup, body kit, or Rota Torque wheels.....

AFAIK, the outer dimensions of the bushing is the same as standard EA82....I didn't take any measurements, but I compared them when I did the swap, and they look pretty close.

pssst....check the date

yep, my family and I were stumped by that switch once. it was in my mom's '92 legacy. we ended up pulling the fuse for a few days until I found the switch (that was before I was into these forums....).

a local guy is parting out an '86 GL-10 with checkered seats. I'll be putting the fronts in my wagon, how about the rears? I've never looked very close at sedan rear seats (never owned one). any way to put those in the back of my wagon or XT6?

my issue could have been a result of the oil breaking down. it did have some abuse (2 autoXs, lots of ice racing). but I've put standard oil through that without problems. IMHO, seems like a steep price to pay to improve shifter feel.

I'd really appreciate it if you'd re-post the pictures of your project. as the ones you posted before were in the old gallery, and are no longer there.

ran it in my RX tranny for about 30k miles. shifting was awesome..... then it developed some bearing noise last fall. I promptly drained it and switch to 4 quarts of straight Castrol HypoyC. shifting is harder (almost impossible below zero) when cold, but the noise went away. I think it's like running ATF in a manual: wonderful for cleaning, terrible for lubricating. for temporary use only. I will never use it again, if the synchros need better lubrication, I'll throw a little rislone in it, that I have had good luck with (saved 2nd gear in my dad's '94 LGT, no negative effects after similar mileage).

^lol.....uhh....no in all seriousness. your options are pretty much endless depending what you want, how much you're willing to do, and what you're willing to spend. if budget weren't an issue....I'd just get me a wrecked STi, and go to town. it's more than possible. you could even mate the EJ257 (STi motor) to your RX trans with an adapter plate (and a strong enough clutch....). EJ swaps have been done, dozens of times. I've got an EA82 wagon with an RX trans and an EJ22 that I regularly race in local events. have a look around this section of the forum, check the stickied thread at the top (EJ swap who's who) to see who's done it, and what setup they have, and start searching for posts by those with setups like what you want to see what we like, what we don't, and what we'd do different. oh, and welcome!!