Numbchux

FYI. the 3AT is not a 3EAT (the E is for electronic. which the 3-speeds are not). yes, any 3AT from an EA82 will fit without much difficulty. 5-speed swap isn't too hard. again, from any EA82. you'll need: tranny driveshaft pedals (clutch, brake, and throttle. all one assembly, although the throttle pedal is the same). rear diff clutch cable flywheel clutch shift linkage interior trim (optional, but to make it look nice) the dual range ones are much nicer, better 4WD, and the low range is nice. but a single range one would work just fine. if you get one of these, you'll also need the vacuum solenoids off the driver's side strut tower. depending on prices at your local junkyard of choice, I bet you could get everything for $5-700. gauge cluster is a Pain to swap, not plug and play, so just live with the PRND21 indicators (that's what I do...).

+3 align it before you spend any money on parts that probably won't fix the problem.

1stsubaruparts.com is a great source for OEM parts too.

rockauto is exactly right. and, as those part descriptions say, they're for 2WD cars. if your car is not 2WD, that will not work. they have been wrong, I've found a couple mis-listings. but they're the most reliable. the nice thing is they have complete listings like that, with dimensions and stuff, so you can make sure it's the right part number.

it'd be nice to know what car you might be referring to.... I got superpro poly sway bar bushings for my loyale. they were backordered for ever....but they're pretty sweet!

no, no, no. Carbed uses about 10 psi. FI EA82s and N/A EJs use about 40 psi, and turbo EJs use the same pressure, but about double the cfm. an SPFI EA82 fuel pump will run an N/A EJ22 without any difficulty.

timing belts definitely can be done with the radiator in. but, since you're doing the water pump anyway (you ARE, aren't you?), the rad will already be drained. pull the grill, radiator, and maybe even bumper, and it get's IMMENSELY more simple. again, it can be done with the A/C compressor on, but IMHO the extra time spent to remove it is worth the time gained by simplifying the water pump install.

SWEET. glad to hear it. yea, by hooking that wire up to a constant 12v, the ECU wasn't turning off....makes sense. glad to hear it lives. and I can't wait to see the aftermath!

Ah HA! I thought that sounded like a CAS issue. alright, so next thing to try is to make sure you've got continuity through the 3 wires between the ECU and crank angle sensor. if you've got a bad connection there, that might throw the starter code as well (it doesn't know the engine is turning over).

EJ strut tops work just fine with EA82 towers. the bolts are only a couple mm off, so it's a tad snug, but fits fine.

I've never had anything other than wagons (well...and my XT6, but that had air stuff). so I'm really not sure what a stock one looks like. I do know that the shock and upper perch are the same. so they're the same diameter, and about the same length when in use. I would suspect, though, that the sedans ones are a touch longer when free. one of each might be a good setup, effectively giving it a progressive rate....

that would defeat the purpose as the accord springs are quite a bit stiffer than a subaru wagon one (which is already almost 200 lb/in ). what you want, for a long travel setup, is a softer spring. I think something in the 170 lb/in range would work very well on a wagon (more like 140 or so on a sedan). the subaru springs are exactly 2.5" ID, which makes aftermarket springs very easy to come by. some spring specs:

well...they are the same except for the length... BUT, if you're modifying one anyway.

wrong. EZ30 will easily fit in the engine bay. careful who you're calling gay, the guy who brought it up in this thread has a FWD XT6 with an EZ30 in it that'll probably shock the crap out of most cars on the road EG33 would require moving the radiator forward. but still more than possible to keep AWD. a stock EG33 in a GC impreza will walk stage 2 WRXs all day long.

VSS....the EA diagrams refer to it as the reed switch in the gauge cluster.

nah. burnouts are for those with not-enough-wheel-drive. I prefer traction....thx

well, you're in for a heck of a project if you didn't mark the plugs. that was my biggest hold up on my first one.....now it isn't too much of a problem, because I recognize all the plugs. yes, the computer with the 4 black plugs is the TCU. the ECUs are the same, just a signal wire that tells it whether it's in an AT or MT car. once you cut off this wire, it'll switch over. the tach signal will work just fine. I'm not sure if it'll have a reed switch or not. I've heard that some EA81s do, but I know Phizinza had to fabricate one for his brat. I've also only ever heard of one person running an OBD I EJ22 that needed a VSS, and that was Phizinza, so that might be an oz-specific thing. the smallcar.com website specifically states that it is not needed in OBD I cars..... BUT, I'll give you a couple pointers. first off, start with plugs you know you WON'T be using. and remember, a cut wire is a cut wire, they behave the same no matter where you cut it. so, don't just grab a connector you know you won't be using and cut it off. if you know you won't be needing it, trace each wire back into the harness as far as you possibly can, and THEN cut it. if you trace it back into the harness, and it splits, cut it before the split as you might need that wire elsewhere. if you come back to it, and you've cut off all the other wires, then you can move past it. if any of them lead to a plug you know you'll be keeping (ECU, specifically), look it up before you cut it. you might not need it, but it's always good to double-check. great ECU pinout for looking up individual wires here alright, now, un-do the SMJ (huge grey plug with the bolt through it) and seperate the part of the harness that went up through the fender (has one ECU plug on it, the underhood fuse box, and headlights/rad fans/etc.) and set this part aside. now lay the rest out like it was in the car. now, start from the passenger side footwell (where the cruise box was, this is the other computer with the 2 relays on it in the lower right of your pic). follow that entire harness across until you get to where it splits off and went through the firewall (this is where the MAF, crank and cam sensors, 02, and ignitor wiring is). of that entire clump of wires between there and the cruise box, you will only need one wire, which is the large BR (black with red stripe) wire, this is for the fuse pump. so cut that wire off at the plug at the farthest end from the relay, and pull it out. now trace the rest of those wires the other way into the harness and start cutting them off. you will not need ANY of them, just remember, if you come to a split, cut it before the split. next easiest is the TCU. again, you won't need any of these, but again, be very careful to cut BEFORE any of these splits, as it does get a signal from the TPS and a few others that are crucial to engine functionality. then to the fuse box (interior one) plugs. trace them each individually. most of these will not be used either, but the relays get their power here, so watch out for those. then to the couple plugs at the gauge cluster. you'll need to save a few of these wires, but again, most of them can go. *watch out for 2 wires here, they do not go to the ECU, but straight to the engine harness. one's GW and the other WG. these are for oil light and water temp signals* that's about as much help as I can offer. hope that gets you started.

excellent. very similar to how I want to set mine up. although the front spring hanger on the 63s worries me. that's a crucial ground-clearance point on the rocks, my buddy's YJ gets hung up on the front hangers of the rear springs all the time.

nope, that's a newer thing. I attached a little diagram of the fuel pump relay. on the left is how it is stock. the yellow wires are separated for awhile, but should both be on the same circuit eventually. on the right is what you should do. tie them together (a yellow heat-shrink butt splice would be best, only costs a couple bux from wal-mart, home depot, napa, etc.) so that both ends of the smaller wire get power.

that is, extremely strange. I don't know how it could have run at all that way. well, they should be on the same circuit, so hook them both together. also, that smaller yellow wire also goes to the ECU (pin b12, FWIW), so don't just cut it off and hook up the relay side.

both yellow wires at the fuel relay should get 12v when the ign is on. green wire gets a ground from the ECU.

yea, the one ECU is bad. codes? did you look for the diagnostic connectors and be sure they're unplugged? and, for the umpteenth time....did you double/triple checked ALL air lines between the block and the MAF.

ECU plugs are entirely different. in fact, the 96 has one big one. alright, if the ECU is working. next thing to check is if there are any codes. is your CEL working?

ooooo....that's who's been sending me emails about this..... anyway, like I asked in the emails. is the ECU coming on at all? easiest way to tell this is whether the fuel pump primes or not.

yea, both pairs of diagnostic connectors are there. I do connect them (to keep track of them) while working on the harness, I don't know if I left them that way. still sounds like a vacuum leak....sounds EXACTLY like what happened with the 96 EJ22 in the 86 wagon last summer when I didn't have the IAC connected to the intake tube.