Numbchux

^lol.....uhh....no in all seriousness. your options are pretty much endless depending what you want, how much you're willing to do, and what you're willing to spend. if budget weren't an issue....I'd just get me a wrecked STi, and go to town. it's more than possible. you could even mate the EJ257 (STi motor) to your RX trans with an adapter plate (and a strong enough clutch....). EJ swaps have been done, dozens of times. I've got an EA82 wagon with an RX trans and an EJ22 that I regularly race in local events. have a look around this section of the forum, check the stickied thread at the top (EJ swap who's who) to see who's done it, and what setup they have, and start searching for posts by those with setups like what you want to see what we like, what we don't, and what we'd do different. oh, and welcome!!

yea, rguyver "just" welded a ring on the inside of the EJ backing plates to make the center hole smaller, then drilled the 3 holes. Kaz made an adapter. not exactly ground-breaking stuff, but definitely pretty cool. my concern is the offset. rguyver found that the rotor offset was perfect the way he did it, by putting an adapter plate between the trailing arm and backing plate pushes it out, which will screw up the spacing between it and the hub face. I suppose you could throw a spacer of the same thickness between the hub face and rotor. but that would push the whole wheel out, which will change how the tire fits in the wheel well (depending on the wheel offset, that could be good or bad). long story short, I'm anxious to see how this turns out.

have a look around. all of this has been covered. from the USRM: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400 some (AWD?) XT6s use a larger bolt from control arm to crossmember. use the larger bolt and drill out the holes in the xmember. that's what I did, held up wonderfully, about 20k miles and 2 AutoXs. and yes, SuperPro makes bushings, part numbers are listed in a few threads. if you swap the bushings, that might eliminate the bolt difference problem (assuming the other dimensions are the same).

looks like pretty much the exact same thing that rguyver did with his brat a couple years ago. XT6 hubs, and EJ backing plates adapted to the EA trailing arms.

well, would fit and work fine. but you'd be FWD.

what on earth are you talking about?! seriously, fender bender, ignore everything in this last post. I don't know what on earth he thought he was referring to, but had nothing to do with your issue. yea, assuming the '98 is also an auto, it'll all bolt straight up, plug in, and work just fine. no modifications required.

Sounds like a neat car, but not an EJ-swap...so really doesn't belong here.

no kidding! won't be much to report for awhile though. the girlfriend and I are going to Chicago for spring break in about a month. so I won't be spending any money until after that.

pulled it apart. the one that was in my wagon is totally chewed up because it cavitated and was un-lubricated metal on metal. might go take a couple pictures. EDIT: picture. parts on the left are from a destroyed one. ones on the right from this immaculate one.

Picked up a motor and FWD 4EAT from a '90 legacy with about 180k miles on them for $100. appears that the motor was cared for fairly well while it was in the car, but has been stored very poorly. so some brackets bent/broken, and a few things dried/rusty (mostly tbelt pulleys). Started tearing it down the last few days: got it unloaded, and started taking some things off to ease the trip down into the basement: Subaru timing belt.....possibly original got it in the house, and set up on the bench: a table just for the engine: pulled the flex plate, and found this......somebody must have dropped it through the access panel. one of the mounts where the PS bracket bolts to the block is broken. nothing behind it though, so I'm thinking I'll tap threads in there, and run a slightly longer bolt. still got the crosshatching: Came with a power steering pump, pulled it apart, and it's in great shape. which is awesome, because mine is.....well.......not

FYI. the 3AT is not a 3EAT (the E is for electronic. which the 3-speeds are not). yes, any 3AT from an EA82 will fit without much difficulty. 5-speed swap isn't too hard. again, from any EA82. you'll need: tranny driveshaft pedals (clutch, brake, and throttle. all one assembly, although the throttle pedal is the same). rear diff clutch cable flywheel clutch shift linkage interior trim (optional, but to make it look nice) the dual range ones are much nicer, better 4WD, and the low range is nice. but a single range one would work just fine. if you get one of these, you'll also need the vacuum solenoids off the driver's side strut tower. depending on prices at your local junkyard of choice, I bet you could get everything for $5-700. gauge cluster is a Pain to swap, not plug and play, so just live with the PRND21 indicators (that's what I do...).

+3 align it before you spend any money on parts that probably won't fix the problem.

1stsubaruparts.com is a great source for OEM parts too.

rockauto is exactly right. and, as those part descriptions say, they're for 2WD cars. if your car is not 2WD, that will not work. they have been wrong, I've found a couple mis-listings. but they're the most reliable. the nice thing is they have complete listings like that, with dimensions and stuff, so you can make sure it's the right part number.

it'd be nice to know what car you might be referring to.... I got superpro poly sway bar bushings for my loyale. they were backordered for ever....but they're pretty sweet!

no, no, no. Carbed uses about 10 psi. FI EA82s and N/A EJs use about 40 psi, and turbo EJs use the same pressure, but about double the cfm. an SPFI EA82 fuel pump will run an N/A EJ22 without any difficulty.

timing belts definitely can be done with the radiator in. but, since you're doing the water pump anyway (you ARE, aren't you?), the rad will already be drained. pull the grill, radiator, and maybe even bumper, and it get's IMMENSELY more simple. again, it can be done with the A/C compressor on, but IMHO the extra time spent to remove it is worth the time gained by simplifying the water pump install.

SWEET. glad to hear it. yea, by hooking that wire up to a constant 12v, the ECU wasn't turning off....makes sense. glad to hear it lives. and I can't wait to see the aftermath!

Ah HA! I thought that sounded like a CAS issue. alright, so next thing to try is to make sure you've got continuity through the 3 wires between the ECU and crank angle sensor. if you've got a bad connection there, that might throw the starter code as well (it doesn't know the engine is turning over).

EJ strut tops work just fine with EA82 towers. the bolts are only a couple mm off, so it's a tad snug, but fits fine.

I've never had anything other than wagons (well...and my XT6, but that had air stuff). so I'm really not sure what a stock one looks like. I do know that the shock and upper perch are the same. so they're the same diameter, and about the same length when in use. I would suspect, though, that the sedans ones are a touch longer when free. one of each might be a good setup, effectively giving it a progressive rate....

that would defeat the purpose as the accord springs are quite a bit stiffer than a subaru wagon one (which is already almost 200 lb/in ). what you want, for a long travel setup, is a softer spring. I think something in the 170 lb/in range would work very well on a wagon (more like 140 or so on a sedan). the subaru springs are exactly 2.5" ID, which makes aftermarket springs very easy to come by. some spring specs:

well...they are the same except for the length... BUT, if you're modifying one anyway.

wrong. EZ30 will easily fit in the engine bay. careful who you're calling gay, the guy who brought it up in this thread has a FWD XT6 with an EZ30 in it that'll probably shock the crap out of most cars on the road EG33 would require moving the radiator forward. but still more than possible to keep AWD. a stock EG33 in a GC impreza will walk stage 2 WRXs all day long.

VSS....the EA diagrams refer to it as the reed switch in the gauge cluster.