Numbchux

I always loose this link!! http://enginewiring.com/Products.html $40 for a unit that will simulate a signal so you can run any old ECU without a VSS at all.

EJ ones are almost identical. the bolt circle is about 1/4" larger, so you'll have to grind the edges of the holes slightly. but they'll bolt to the struts just fine. just use your EA spring perches. IIRC the pattern is rotated a bit from how it is in an EJ car, so camber plates won't work quite like they're intended. but upgraded mounts like Group N or similar will work wonderfully.

I'd be in for a strut bar, depending on the price...

rotate the engine by hand to the desired BTDC mark on the flywheel (been so long since I've owned an EA82 car, I couldn't tell you off the top of my head...). make a mark on the side of the distributor to mark the #1 point. pull the disty cap off, and adjust the base so the rotor is pointing at the mark. you really can't hurt anything if it's off unless you're really beating on it (pretty hard to get detonation in an N/A car ). it'll just run badly. once it's running, you can adjust it a bit just by listening to the idle. you can definitely get it to a driveable point without a light.

^ what he said. many early '90s EJ cars have cable speedos (including some OBD II ones). doesn't mean there isn't a VSS signal. wiring diagrams refer to them as a "reed switch".

don't have to drill through the interior trim. but yea, I pulled the trim off the wheel well, and I could see the top nut sticking up. it works, but I would not recommend it. now that I have the adjustable ground-controls on, I have ditched that setup.

yea

you're actually trying to make lemonade with oranges. splines are different in almost every dimension. your only chance, short of re-machining the spindle/hub to match, is to find another bearing that will fit in the EA trialing arm, but allow the EJ hub to be pressed inside it, and then use the EJ axles.

boy I'm jealous. what a beautiful collction :slobber:

very nice! details plz. EJ front stuff or ER? rear ebrake?

I hear they machine them down over in Oz..... and yea, your ratios should be fine.

yes, the step is the mating surface. yes, it is different between EA82 and XT6. but an ER27 clutch can be used with an EA82 flywheel/dimensions just fine. AFAIK, the only effective difference is the weight.

well' date=' just to throw a monkey wrench in that. the center LSD is pretty damn strong. When Austin and I went wheeling up here in MN a few years ago, he got high-centered in his impreza. both rear wheels on the ground, with quite a bit of weight on them, but the fronts were in the air. he was still able to dig a hole in the back....IMHO, if you're not going to weld the rear, you won't need the locked center. the center diff is pretty much my biggest frustration with my loyale. the full-locked center induces understeer at RallyX and ice racing tracks (can't use the e-brake for tight turns either), and the open diff just allows lots of front wheelspin on AutoX courses. agreed....my next project (when my EJ trans gets here) is to pull it apart and swap the 5th gear for the tallest ratio I can find (WRX), hoping for awesome freeway gears too. I'm more than a little nervous about tearing into a tranny

WOW!!!!! @$%@%^@$%, does that look hot or what!!! crap, excuse me. I have to go change pants

sounds like it was installed correctly, some play is normal. I hope someone has another soluction....but it really just sounds like it's a bad bearing. did you put a new one in? what kind was it?

http://specclutch.com/cars/Subaru/Leone__Loyale/1989/Single wish they had torque ratings......but no such luck. I was going to run a spec clutch on my new setup, but then decided to go EJ.... tex, only difference between EA82 and ER27 flywheels is the weight. ER27 clutch will work with an EA82 flywheel perfectly. also, some manufacturers (Beck/Arnley for sure, I've used 2 of their setups in EJ22 swaps) use the same part for turbo or XT6.

of course not. but the pinion shaft and driven shaft are very much 2 pieces. I'm talking about using all EA gearsets with the EJ pinion shaft. shift collar/synchro differences are not an issue. and yea, 1.59:1 won't clear 4.111 ring gear without modification, ring gear can be machined down, or a 3.9 will have to be used (or 1.196:1 low). but, like I said, EA82t 5th gear + 4.111 would be miserable on the freeway!! there's no real "easy" answer to all this. but you definitely could get a pretty badass setup with the parts you have.

yep, FT4WD/AWD driven shafts and pinion shafts are 2 pieces, one inside the other. 27mm nut on the end, and they come apart, pretty easily. no press needed, I think I had to give mine a little tap with a hammer.....but it really was a little tap, no pounding. pics of the one I have in the basement. this is all out of a '93 legacy 4.111 trans. assembled, see the 2 sets of splines on the end? the one on the end is the pinion, the other is the tranny "output" (it drives the center diff). disassembled: AFAIK, you can use the driven shaft (the hollow one) from the FT4WD trans (this is why it has to be the FT4WD one, as the PT4WD ones are one piece...), with the EJ pinion through it, and EJ center diff. my only concern is gearing. the EA82t .871 5th gear with anything shorter than a 3.7 diff ratio is going to turn some really high rpms unless you're running big tires (my loyale currently has .871, 3.7, and 26.2" tires, and still turns over 3k rpms at 70 mph. with stock tires, it was almost 4k!)

he's talking about a legacy. so 5-lug.

they're really not. the pinion shaft is a separate piece from the driven shaft. separating them is not hard at all. I have not been able to get more than just 5th gear off the shafts, even with my el cheapo press. so you may want to have a pro do that.... but, you could have the gearsets ready to go, then all you'd have to swap is the pinion and diffs, which do not need a press or anything. I could easily do it in less time than the local driveline shop could have my driveshaft modified. so as far as downtime is concerned, I know this would be faster in my case. also, by using the EJ center diff/case extension, the EJ tranny mount bolts right up, so no custom crossmember.

no, grounding it will tell it that it's in neutral. it needs to be a changing signal (not sure how much it cares that the signal matches with the rpms....). I THINK your car should have a switch on the clutch pedal, I'm fairly sure my '85 did. otherwise, grab one off a later EA82. or hide the CEL and ignore it. it won't effect functionality at all. and yep.

^correct although, AFAIK EA82 5MT D/R 4WD stock tire size is 185/70r13, which is ~23.2"

he's using an EA81 box with an EA82 pressure plate. I'm no expert, but I thought this was do-able, but a throwout from a nissan pickup was needed to make it work. :confused:

adapter plate EA82 D/R front case halves EA82 D/R input shaft with EA82 FT4WD drive gears EA82 FT4WD driven shaft. EJ center diff and it's housing EJ pinion (has to match the center diff) EJ front diff EJ axle stubs EJ driveshaft EJ linkage. done. can't use the center diff/pinion/front diff from your trans? if it's really just a synchro problem, you wouldn't need to buy anything extra. if downtime is your concern, you could still assemble the main shafts/gearsets before pulling the EJ out, then just pull the center off, split the case, swap pinion/front diff, assemble the case, assemble the tranny, re-install. I'd be it'd take less time than having a driveshaft modified.

yep, as mentioned, reed switch = VSS. I believe if you follow the wire on the EJ22 diagrams it's marked as a reed switch there too. AFAIK, inhibitor switch is AT only. won't effect anything at all neutral switch can be hooked up to a clutch switch or neutral switch on the trans (if your trans is the '86, it won't have it). if your ECU is properly designated "MT", this will throw a code. on the '86 I did last summer (dhise has it now), I hooked the CEL wire to the signal wire on the ECS light on the dash (on the right side, by the charge light). polarity was the same, light already had power, just needed a ground signal (did the same with the oil light on the other side). on my loyale, I just used a dash backlight from my parts pile and wired a light in the loom. it can be seen under the dash just as easily as the light on the EA82 ECU, but not easily while driving (at night you can see the glow on your feet...but it isn't annoying). it's nice not to have to look at it all the time, since I've never bothered to hook up the neutral switch. I can't think of anything else, although if something else needs attention, it'll probably throw a code.....