Numbchux

yellow wire, center pin of the coil, should get 12v+ while ign is on.

be very careful when removing that rubber bushing. this was done on the PoopenVagon at some point, and it ripped the mounting stud out of the driveshaft tunnel.

read the post you quoted :-\ or other posts in the thread.

just thought I'd mention, that all EA82s have an oil light in the dash (on the left side of the column, in that strip under the cluster). it's only used on the DLs, but it's there on others. I wired the EJ sender into this....and it works great. it'd be nice to have a gauge, but my efforts to mount the EA sender to the EJ engine failed.....

put about 40 miles on it today. definitely the slowest vehicle I own I had contemplated swapping the tstat housings because my 22RTE one had a second sensor in it. but when I took one of the bolts out of the RE housing, I realized the PO must have stripped out the hole and used self-tappers....YIKES. I opted not to touch the second one, and put the first back in. well....while merging today, I wound it out to about 5k rpms, and that gasket let loose. I guess I'll be spending some time with a drill and tap tomorrow. at least it's pretty easy to access. but I spent most of the time driving it today with all the windows open (even the back) and the sunroof out. totally worth it!!!!

so....why did you post? (not being a wongleflute......an honest question) your thread title asks who wants them. are you trying to sell them? you're only saving $20 over genuine high-quality name brand performance springs. and probably spending much more than a pair of accord springs would cost. both of which require no modification. whatever....I don't get it. FYI. only option I can find that would be stiffer is a BP LGT, which uses a 171-330 progressive rear spring. even an '09 STi only has 190 in the rear. unless you're just taking a softer spring and cranking a ton of preload on it.....

fixed notice at the end it says introducing the new STi. and show's an '08.

"new" but it's still good.

;-) I'm excited to see how it works out though. what did these come off of anyway?

update from today... brakes bled tranny line tightened, a bit (extremely hard to access....so it's barely finger tight, but the leak seems to have stopped). front diff is in steering stabilizer attached when I had it off the ground to put the diff in, I noticed the right-front brake was dragging. I'll see if it loosens up after driving it a bit.....if not, I still have the calipers from the parts truck. it's officially road-worthy. should make the open house at the offroad park here in MN on May 16. for the first time in 2.5 years. it left the alley, and under it's own power. I only drove it around the corner to park on the street in front of my house for awhile while I put new plugs in my mom's legacy.....but it still counts!!

$59 each. for genuine Eibach springs. in any spring rate and length you want. lifted, lowered, stiffer, softer, etc. I know of no factory subaru with a stiffer spring rate than an EA82 wagon. since i made that chart, i've found better info on the late legacies, but IIRC none were over 190 lb/in. not saying yours is a bad idea. looks pretty sweet. but it may not be the best option. and may not actually be an upgrade....

looks like some BE legacy parts. although those would be softer...... stiffer springs is easy. Ea82s use 2.5" ID springs. aftermarket ones are very common. I run Eibachs available from Ground-control in any dimension you can imagine (a 12" long 250 lb/in spring works wonderfully!).

the 98 outback or forester (assuming it's a 2.5) would be your best bet. the OBD II logic modules are much more capable of compensating for boost than the OBD I ones. although you'll still want to upgrade the fuel system. at the very least a rrfpr. and probably run a wideband so you can monitor AFRs to make sure you don't lean out under boost.

it's been mentioned a couple times here, but I have new motivation to show it off (see below...), so here goes a real-live thread bought it about 2.5 years ago. since the day it arrived, it has never been beyond the alley. didn't exactly get a steal on it, but I don't think I got ripped off on it either, and yota's with an auto trans are pretty rare (turbo being even more rare, but I don't care about that ). pretty soon after I got it: background.... I bought it from a guy in Grand Rapids, MN who salvages cars. in ~'97 he purchased this truck at insurance auction. it had been stolen, and the 2 guys that stole it drove it through a store front to rob the place. the impact blew the radiator (as well as destroying bumper/headlights/grill/hood/fenders), so they left it and took off on foot. The insurance company totalled it out. So he bought it, fixed it, put tube bumpers, step bars, an add-a-leaf, wider wheels with low backspacing, and 31x12.5 tires on it, and sold it to his sister-in-law. She lived in Colorado for much of that time, so it hasn't been exposed to salt for more than 10 years. about 1.5 years before I bought it, they put a few grand into a brand-new head, turbo, and radiator. and about a year later, her boyfriend "changed" the oil.....and it quickly developed rod knock. we don't know much, other than the fact that 300 miles later, she noticed the noise and the fact that oil pressure gauge read nothing. she had it towed to the dealer, and they charged her for oil, and a drain plug (and labor)...... he bought it back and sold her a newer 4runner, and he planned to put a chevy 4.3 V6 into it, but never got around to it, so he put it up for sale. that winter, I dropped the oil pan, and found these in the bottom: all 4 thrust washer halves, one pretty thoroughly deformed and painted the valve cover and air pipe replaced them, and the main bearings (rod bearings measured well within spec, mains were borderline). started it up, and it was no better. I put it in gear and put the brakes on to see if the noise went away under load.......and noticed that as soon as the turbo started to spool, it started burning oil like crazy. great, seals in the turbo are shot! so I started looking for a new motor. last winter (a bit over a year ago), I noticed a rusty 4runner that had been run into a pole and been sitting for a month or so. offered the guy $200, we settled on $250: too rusty to be worth fixing, but a good engine donor. didn't actually get around to parting it out until last August. but I did paint the ugly rump roast wheels on the white one: last november, I finally had the remains of the parts truck hauled away: last wednesday was the last time it ran on the original motor. on thursday I started tearing it apart. I used the N/A block, head, and lower intake manifold. and the injectors, upper manifold, valve cover, sensors, solenoids, MAF, and wiring from the turbo setup. yesterday, it ran again on the new motor. while I let it run to make sure I got all the air out of the cooling system I saw the ramps just sitting there...... CT-20 turbo: unfortunately, the header I bought is for an older truck. I knew the flange was the same, and that an 02 bung would be needed......what I didn't anticipate, was that one of the primaries on the header needs the space occupied by one of the torsion bars for the front suspension (wouldn't be there on an older solid-axle truck). so, stock N/A header is back in it. hopefully the weather won't suck too bad tomorrow, and I can get the brakes bled before work (not delivering....). Still have to put the front diff in, and disconnect the sway bar.

EA81 4WD linkage is different than EA82s....might not be applicable.

I always loose this link!! http://enginewiring.com/Products.html $40 for a unit that will simulate a signal so you can run any old ECU without a VSS at all.

EJ ones are almost identical. the bolt circle is about 1/4" larger, so you'll have to grind the edges of the holes slightly. but they'll bolt to the struts just fine. just use your EA spring perches. IIRC the pattern is rotated a bit from how it is in an EJ car, so camber plates won't work quite like they're intended. but upgraded mounts like Group N or similar will work wonderfully.

I'd be in for a strut bar, depending on the price...

rotate the engine by hand to the desired BTDC mark on the flywheel (been so long since I've owned an EA82 car, I couldn't tell you off the top of my head...). make a mark on the side of the distributor to mark the #1 point. pull the disty cap off, and adjust the base so the rotor is pointing at the mark. you really can't hurt anything if it's off unless you're really beating on it (pretty hard to get detonation in an N/A car ). it'll just run badly. once it's running, you can adjust it a bit just by listening to the idle. you can definitely get it to a driveable point without a light.

^ what he said. many early '90s EJ cars have cable speedos (including some OBD II ones). doesn't mean there isn't a VSS signal. wiring diagrams refer to them as a "reed switch".

don't have to drill through the interior trim. but yea, I pulled the trim off the wheel well, and I could see the top nut sticking up. it works, but I would not recommend it. now that I have the adjustable ground-controls on, I have ditched that setup.

yea

you're actually trying to make lemonade with oranges. splines are different in almost every dimension. your only chance, short of re-machining the spindle/hub to match, is to find another bearing that will fit in the EA trialing arm, but allow the EJ hub to be pressed inside it, and then use the EJ axles.

boy I'm jealous. what a beautiful collction :slobber:

very nice! details plz. EJ front stuff or ER? rear ebrake?