Numbchux

ordered from performanceradiator.com last Friday.....this arrived today: single row (plenty of cooling capacity, and leftover engine space for the EJ22e). metal endtanks, made in Thailand :-\ , $158 shipped. with the straight outlet!

hmmmm:

problem with the XT6 pressure plate? how do you mean? like not holding the power? my 4-cyl one held the power of the 22e pretty well, but definitely failed before it's time. same number of bolts...same bolts too.

and will allow better brakes!

as I mentioned......the disc itself is interchangeable. you can use a WRX clutch disc on an EA82 flywheel.... the only difference is the teeth where the flywheel meets the starter.....and possibly how the throwout bearing lines up with the pressure plate.

I have the same yakima setup. awesome rack, extremely strong. I haul bikes, a spare tire, even hauled a 40ft extension ladder (2 20 ft sections) on it once. bought it used from a member here years ago, and have had it on 3 cars since then!

that's exactly right....however has no bearing on what flywheel can be used.... looks like I'll have the engine out of my car next weekend (doing a new clutch and replacing my oil pan with the rust holes in it ). I'll see if I can't get a hold of an EJ clutch kit and see how it all compares with the EA stuff....

the light duty part of the rack is the stock mounts. the roof is made of aluminum foil, I've seen those stock rails rip right out of the roof. if you need something more heavy duty than the stock crossbars, get a gutter-mount system.

no, that's why the adapter plate is 1/2" thick....

yarg....may need some creative throwout bearing picking. but the clutch disc itself is the same (or interchangeable, at least...). I think if you could find a way to make the starter engage the EJ flywheel with the EA trans housing....you could make the rest work.

the teeth where the starter engages the flywheel. there's been talk of re-mounting the starter to use the EJ flywheel. but nothing's become of it. I believe Phizinza was the one who's done most of the research, but he ended up just using an EJ trans, so it wasn't an issue. search for his posts....you may find the info to get you started.

no, it's not....I was putting off re-clocking it until I knew how to fix the turn signals while I was in there....maybe they'll fix themselves

damn....I was hoping that it wasn't something like that. it doesn't appear to have anything missing, as it works like it should both directions, just at the wrong places in the wheel's rotation.....

haha, I've got an M. Rose one that's been doing that for about a year and a half.....

well....figured out the one thing. turns out the turn signals themselves have a seperate fuse.... I was working tonight, and noticed that my windows didn't work. got back to the store, whipped out the Chilton's manual (yes...I carry it with me...), studied the diagrams, and sure enough. so I replaced that fuse, and now the turn signals work properly. still wondering how to recenter them though. maybe I'll just pull the steering wheel off and see if I can't figure it out....

couple things.... my left turn signal has been acting strange lately. drawing a lot of power (volt meter jumps back and forth from the normal ~13v down to less than 10 while it's on), and the front light itself hasn't been working. I figured it was something up under the dash, and didn't want to deal with it. anyway, I was driving home from the bank today, and I flipped it on, and it didn't work, and my radio turned off. ok, well, duh, fuse.....done that before. yesterday I had just tapped into the right side wire (lost it in the swap ) in the dash, but hadn't hooked it up to the light itself. so I figured that's what was shorting and blowing the fuse. I taped up the end of that, and put a new fuse in it. I turned the ign on, hit the turn signals, and it did the same thing, and blew the fuse again. anyway, I figured it most be something with the left side....so I decided to pull the light out of the bumper. I found that the power wire was touching the metal outer edge of the fixture, and had rubbed through the insulation. so I pulled it away, put some electrical tape, and just like that, it works again. on the hazards...... now the turn signals don't work, but the hazards do. I think the only variable there is the switch itself.....possible I fried the switch? other ideas? I don't want to pull things apart and replace the switch in the column to have it not help.... question 2. when I was doing the engine swap last summer, I had the engine crossmember and steering rack out of the car. and my buddy said something along the lines of, "I've always wondered if the steering lock was in the column or the rack". and proceeded to grab the steering wheel, and give it a good hard spin. and it spun easily 20 times or more..... well, now my turn signal sensor thingymabober (technical term) isn't centered. so they turn themselves off at the weirdest times. would it be possible to pull the steering wheel off, and the combination switch, and recenter it?

check the vender section. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=35 ShawnW and NoahDL88 I believe are advertising it.

I don't think that's the case. as a transfer case would spin the driveshaft the opposite direction. that's why the divorced tcased guys can use a subaru rear diff up front....

that is so strange. according to my parts quick reference guide (which has yet to be wrong....knock on wood). all leone/loyale's from 12/90 up have that same part number for the lower rad hose. there are a dozen radiator part numbers, and nothing listed about what's different, just different combinations of years, 4WD, AT, and turbo.... but there are only 3 lower rad hose numbers. -11/90 non-turbo. 12/90-, and AT Turbo '87-'90. and yes, the hose has a very distinct 'S' shape to it.

I'd just get the bolts at a hardware store as well...if not, I've got a pile of random metric bolts on the workbench in the basement from tearing apart a subaru trans. give me some measurements and I can probably send you some. as for the exhaust gaskets. I looked them up in my subaru quick reference guide. give him this: EA82: 44022GA330 or EA81 44023GA340 those are the header to engine gaskets. I have all the others listed too if you need...just let me know.

why? only difference is the radiator hose. just go to the parts store and get a rad hose for a loyale (mine's a '92). or subaru part # 45162GA020 The Loyale. I get 20% off parts (local club discount), and a new radiator from them was still $270. and that's still plastic end tanks etc.

bump stops.....no lift eh? no offense dude, but completely different situation. you're about 2 inches from true full compression. on my lifted rigs, I'd lift a wheel, and could have a guy or 2 go stand on my rear bumper, and compress the suspension on the one side enough to get me through something.

I always preferred the softer suspension for the rougher trails. and the stock springs are already too stiff to allow for full compression unless you're really loaded down (means less travel...) but....like I mentioned earlier. KYB GR2s, and Ground Control coilovers. if you do some searching, you could probably get the whole setup for ~$500...

I love PCI timing kits. had 3 of them on various cars. but I may just get the timing kit, and get the water pump and seals via my connection at the local subaru dealer. might save some money.

it is, but at the absolute highest those struts will allow. my winter tires are stock WRX wheels with 205/55r16s, and they fit easier.