Numbchux

I've got a set of 17x8 wheels in the garage awaiting to go on my loyale. here's one bolted up to the rear of my car: 205/40r17 or 205/45r17 are both pretty close to stock diameter. problem is the width. these will not tuck up into the fender wells like stock ones. I don't think any amount of fender rolling will really solve that. so, either stick with the monster truck ride height, or get some stiffer springs/shocks with the hub and wheel bolted down tight, here's the gap between the inside of the rim and the trailing arm:

mine do it too....but only when it's raining I have a feeling it has to do with the sensor in the motor that tells the circuit when the arm is in the 'park' position.....one of these days I'll pull it apart and see if I can't fix it.

for future reference.....it's a 27mm

crap...well.....off to sears. hopefully I guess it right the first time.

my rear diff pinion seal is leaking. I've got the driveshaft off.....only to find that I don't have the right socket size (could it be....another unique nut size on a subaru?! I've got 22mm for the crank pulley, and 32mm for EJ axle nuts....but it's somewhere in between) I want to get the nut broken loose before I go to work (in about 3 hours). so I can drop the diff tomorrow and get things sealed up. anyway....anyone know the nut size so I can go buy a socket? I don't want to just guess (although I'm thinking ~28mm...)

sure is cheaper than a name brand one.....I was looking at a yakima load warrior setup before. this looks like it'll get the job done just as nicely, for a fraction the cost!

disconnect it and drive the car around, on the street, for a couple days. I think you'll find that those mounts are better used for a skidplate good work!

that is very strange....I get a code, but no symptoms with any of my ECUs, one is the '92 that matches the engine, one hand-me-down junkyard one that I believe is a '93, or the one from my dad's '94. I just got a temporary backup daily driver so I'll be pulling the dash apart and hooking up the VSS and a couple other things (maybe actually wire the CEL into the dash....). so we'll see if it runs any different after all that.

I've had non-subaru ones fail many a time on me. in my experience....the OEM ones will last twice as long.

GM100 gutter mount

I don't think the gear has failed. it just won't go into it, the shift boot is off, so you can see the linkage is tight up against the tranny housing (as far right as it will go), and pull back, and then it moves forward.....I don't see how moving the tranny up would help, since the pivot point is on the tranny....it wouldn't change the geometry any.

some old chops of my wagon: not black.....but you get the idea.... btw.....I just bought a set of those wheels yesterday

yep, all EJ dual ranges have the 1.196 reduction, however, the internals are identical to EA stuff.....so the 1.592 can be swapped in. but with the EJ bellhousing an EJ pressure plate/flywheel combo can be used. that forester trans would probably work. only question would be axles, but those of us either putting them in an EJ car, or using EJ front knuckles could easily fix that. let's hear a quote

you in St. Paul? you on MNSubaru.com? if not....you should be!!

fixed

the reed switch should pulse a ground to the ECU. so one side grounded, the other to the ECU, and it completes the circuit. EDIT: heh heh....that's what I get for replying before reading the whole thread. glad to see you got it hooked up!!

'90-'94 Liberty GXs, like I said above. possibly only available in European, British, and Australian markets (not japanese...).

Yes. the axles can take it. everything will bolt right up.

agreed. when you take into account the drivetrain loss, and the added weight, of a slushbox, an N/A motor with a 5-speed would be faster. an EA 5-speed will hold up fine. an XT6 pressure plate is a must for the turbo. there are aftermarket options, if you want to get a stiffer one. WRX clutch discs will work, and there are a number of people who have had custom PP's made....although it'll be hard on your clutch cable. my stock EA82 4-cyl disc and PP are holding up very well to my EJ22e (non-turbo), had 30k miles on them, then sat in a wheel barrow with the blown engine, then bolted to this, and I've put about 25k on it since then....still holding pretty strong. mounting a hydraulic clutch pedal in an EA car would be a nightmare.....run, don't walk, to your nearest exit. as mentioned, FWD will get old in a hurry....so get something FT4WD. an EA82 5-speed will be a bit simpler, with the mounts, linkage, and driveshaft all bolting right up. 4EAT would not be fun to wire up. 'just' leaving in those extra wires would not be nearly as simple as it sounds....especially the clump of wires going to the shifter. taking stuff out is easy, it's making the leftovers work properly that's the hard part.

as if a part number was that easy to get :-\ I'm looking....

you *could* BUT the problem isn't the overall length. you're not changing the distance between the tcase and rear axle. you'd be trying to cram another axle between the tcase and front axle only way I can see it working, is if you put ~ 2 feet of shaft between the tranny and tcase. also, it wouldn't solve the gearing issues that justify putting in a second tcase. because the front diff cannot be regeared, the other 2 would be stuck at 3.90. and because the front diff doesn't run through the tcase, you wouldn't be able to use the second low range.

EA81 = smaller front brakes I don't know how easily EA81 stuff could be put on there.

well, it looks like I'll be at my parents' place on the western edge of the Twin Cities Wednesday and Thursday. I'm coming down to buy a car.....so I'll probably without one (certainly without mine). but I could probably come give you a hand if you need it, and my parents' have a garage.....(and many spare parts that I'm sure my mom would LOOOOOVE to be rid of)

no, there's only like 1/4" between the caliper and the rim...and I think about the same on the tie rod end.

absolutely zero clunking (which is awesome considering that my EA82 shocks were bottoming out on every crack in the road). stock shocks: miata shocks: same springs. My girlfriend says when I readjusted the springs for the shorter shocks, I made the rear end a bit higher than before. this is as high as the miata rears will allow, so if you want your ride height any higher, use fronts, and I'd go at least 2" higher to avoid bottoming them out.