Numbchux

I got a new one from napa....IIRC it was like $45.

I'm embarrassed to say that's my car. man what a crappy soldering job. buuut....I did that setup a year ago in a hurry, and haven't had a reason to touch it. it's worked wonderfully. I've never been left with a dead battery in anything above -30*F (and then I got a dry-cell battery ) the large white wire that attaches to the stud on the alt is unmodified EA82. and the other 2 is just the EJ plug on the end of the EA harness.

yep, that's the dampener. I had mine rust through last fall..... only way I could find to replace it, was to replace the whole pump :-\

my loyale one worked fine. shorter than I'd like, so it takes a pretty tight bend, but doesn't kink.

yep, there's a little hardline, about 6-8" long with male connections on both ends that go on the high pressure side. it will solve the problem you have. I don't remember which car this came off of, but you have both....go see if it's still attached to the lines on the legacy, or the EA pump. EDIT: found a pic that shows my PS lines, this pic is supposed to show my rad fan sensor, but you can see the lines. that is stock loyale lines (now plugged into an '86 XT steering rack)

replace the piping between the tb and MAF with something solid....like PVC (yea, laugh all you want, but it'll work). but if the ECU doesn't know how much air is going in (via the MAF), it won't know how much fuel to use.....which will cause many problems.

yea, if you want to see some crazy stuff....look up "PHATsuby's crazy project" (thread title) in the NASIOC legacy section. That's the TT EZ30DR that I was referring to. he's doing some really cool, and extremely unique stuff to make that work. and the oil circulation system he had to use is insanity!

yea, but do you have the time and fabrication skills/equipment to make it work? go to a junkyard, and get yourself a decent loyale radiator. it'll fit right in, and the lower outlet points straight out (instead of the steep upward angle like the GL ones).

I know of 2 people doing full custom twin turbo setups here in MN. one on an EG33, and the other on an EZ30DR. but bother are parrallel. and, in all reality, with tuning and other technology where it is today, there isn't much need for 2 turbos on a 4-cyl. sequential or otherwise. although I'm sure it's been done.

hmmm.... tremclad being the canadian version here's a thread, in which he explains how to get awesome results using this method. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 seriously, read all of his posts (username 69chargeryeehaa) I intend to paint my 4Runner soon, hopefully followed by the loyale

yep, my loyale rad keeps my 22e plenty cool. I just found out the relay for my rad fan circuit died.....huh.....never even noticed.

I've never had problems, even on the outer joints in the front..... they're so close to the center, the balance issue is extremely minor. it might make your wheel bearings die 1k miles sooner.....but in the grand scheme of things..... ANND, I've never been able to get a real live CV boot clamp tight enough. maybe I'm just special needs, and can't make it work. but a hose clamp is extremely easy to get plenty tight. no worries.

I don't really have any clue what you're saying there.... OB struts and 2" scorpion lift springs for an outback would yield 5-6". but stock outbacks have a small body lift (I believe it's an inch or less....just to ease axle angles). I wouldn't run the scorpion springs without it. besides, 29" tires are pretty much the biggest tire you can fit under the spring perches on the outback struts, and you'll easily fit that without the lift springs.

no, outback/baja/forester struts will yield about 1.5-2", stock outback/baja/forester springs will yield another 1.5-2". Scorpion lift springs for an outback would yield ANOTHER couple inches. outback, baja, and forester stuff is virtually identical in height. but ever so slightly different in dimensions (spring diameter, upper strut bolt patter, etc.). Meaning forester stuff would have the same result, just more work to get there. also, I'm fairly certain that the forester is lighter than the outback, so when installed under a legacy, forester stuff might even be lower. fender, overhang, and wheelbase dimensions make a forester seem taller than an outback (not to mention the body is taller....making the roof taller). but the suspension is virtually the same.

now who's the one doling out the misinformation....:-\ 20H/Rs are sequential. not staged, or parrallel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twin-turbo when they work, they work pretty well. putting down all the power of your standard EJ20t (a nonspecific term to reference any single turbo 2.0l EJ engine), with very little lag. because the smaller turbo spools almost instantly. in stock form, they leave a hole between where the smaller turbo peaks and the bigger one is just beginning to spool up, but I think some tuning and exhaust work, coupled with some carefully selected turbos, you could eliminate this. East Coast Swappers just finished putting a complete, stock EJ20H into an impreza (converted to RHD....of course). some cool info on it....I'll try to find the link. but yes, the extra complexity does sacrifice some reliability, but so does a single turbo over N/A. sometimes a price worth paying. edit: added a pic of an EJ20H that I had saved on my computer

take the wheel off....you'll soon see what's the problem I did something much like that in my loyale, except it destroyed the wheel and tire that was on there aswell. new control arm and leading rod, and it's good as new... well, now, 3 years later, I'm finding the damage when the tire hit the fender made it EXTREMELY difficult to mount my body kit

Look, misinformation or not, keep it civil. you've been here a couple months, you should know that the people here specialize in older gen. it's just like going onto NASIOC and asking if anyone knows the difference between an '88 Coupe and an '88 Hatch. EJ20t means it's a 2.0l EJ-series motor with a Turbo, could be any one of the many combinations therein, 20G, 20K, 205, 207 etc. long story short, if you're going to be a jackass, don't revive the 2 year old thread.

those are not stock I beleive my 4Runner has 4.10s, I don't remember exactly, but I do know it's specific to the turbos.

yea, it's dropped a good 3-4". using generic coilover conversion springs for an impreza. they have an adjustable sleeve that allows me to select the exact ride height.

yep, the front outer CVs are pretty crucial... but everything else could be done. but would require quite a bit of custom work.

nah, this car is going to be parked within the next week or so....and the next time it drives, will be on WRX split-5s!

well, you might be able to get a temp gauge to work with the stock sender (although I know you can get the stock temp gauge to work...), the oil light is just an on/off. if the oil pressure is low, it completes the circuit, grounding that wire. hook up a light to it, and you'll have an oil light. anything else and you'll need a different sender. although you can certainly reuse that wire (that wire I marked is the same one that goes right to the sender under the alt, nothing between it). and neither of those wires go to the ECU, they come straight from the engine.

time to get these painted right and mounted has been hard to come by.....but I got the side skirts on:

my 3" lifted wagon rubbed with 29s when flexing. you're going to have to beat the living crap out of that poor thing to get those to fit without a lift.

jcwhitney has some nice basic gauges, and they also have a metric adapter set that *theoretically* shouldn't require any modification to install....