Numbchux

the subaru suspension is very stable even without the sway bars. Even with a body lift, you can easily make an emergency lane change and not end up upside-down.

I've got a very quick disconnect. it took me about 5 minutes to remove it completely. the subarus handle quite well without them, if you're wheeling hard enough that you think you should disconnect the sway bars, you shouldn't be driving hard enough onroad that you should need them. most of my jeep-driving buddies have removed them onroad. you just have to learn to take it down a notch.

I beg to differ. if you weld it right, and wheel it better, you won't break the welds. swappin out a rear axle isn't that hard if you really are pushing your subaru to the limit on a regular basis. but, if you daily drive it, and wheel it for a few minutes, and drive it home. or, like me, daily drive it in a city that get's alot of snow, an LSD is more for you. beyond that, a snorkel, if you find yourself in the water often. big recommendation for the dual ebrake from me!!! it would go real well with your phantom grip. it's not good for everything, but if you get in a real tight situation, it can be that little help you need to pull yourself over something. It all really depends on what you're doing. The best thing you can do is go wheel it, take it where you want to go, and if it falls short in something, try to find a way to make it better.

I have that wagon, and I'll need to pull the accessory belt on saturday anyway, so I'll try to measure it. he is a member of the local jeep club (for wheeling trips), and so am I. I'll shoot him a pm and see if he remembers.

oh yea, 2 floor jacks are a must, as well as at least 2 stands. and a scissors jack for those minute adjustments while aligning bolts. be VERY careful not to strip out anything!!! You'll be very sorry if you destroy any threads!

we suspected (the first time this pic turned up) that it was a toyota landcruiser or something....

no they don't, cause every set is custom made for the application right here in northern minnesota. I talked to a guy about making some for the subaru, but let's just say it would be in the 5-digit range

got this yesterday: Sorry Matt KYB will not be offering the AGX line for this vehicle Troy hopefully this will change!!

I paid $150 for an immaculate car that needed a tbelt and $350 for a pre-lifted car.... I'm sorry, I don't want to sound like a jerk, but you're going to the 'hassle' of making it look mean by lifting it (you practically have to take the tranny out anyway), but you don't want to go through the 'hassle' to make it perform??

NAY!!!!! both of my GL's have them off....I'd never go back, even offroad. if you're muddin regularly, hit 'em with some white lithium grease every now and again, you'll be fine. and keep a set of tensioners/idler/belts in the car, then if anything does go wrong....replace em on the shoulder of the freeway!

Oh yea, putting 30s on a soob (which come with 23s stock) is like putting 40s on a jeep. that's huge!!! 28s on a soob, with a decent driver, can out-wheel a mildly modified cherokee. He's got a 5-speed, but it's push button single range....no lo range reduction and yea, if you do start wheeling it. get used to replacing clutches. and get cheap ones. you do have to beat them a bit to get the car to do anything....even with lo range.

oh yea, always!!! especially when running in FWD without P/S and in irregular conditions (I did it yesterday in my driveway, snow and patches of gravel, the tires were spinning, one side cought a dry patch..... yikes!)

it has to be, as the input shaft on the tcase attaches directly to the rear output of the tranny. you could get a tcase that sits at an angle, but then you'd have some goofy stuff going on with the front driveshaft. you have to build a frame under the car, the unibody is not strong enough to handle the torque of the tcase, there has to be something substantially more beefy there..... also, remember you have to lift the car enough to mount a front diff under the tranny. And part of that means you have to find a way to attach a diff, one that's usually mounted in the rear, to the engine crossmember, and built a new engine crossmember above that (it's easier than building something new to hold the control arms, and steering rack). This would be very cool, but it's VERY involved.

yep, I had no problems with the steering linkage. and I didn't have to lengthen the pitch stopper. I'm using stock coil wires (well, aftermarket...but nothing special, reached no problem). Stock Rad hoses, cut a bunch off the lower one. ground wires could use an upgrade anyway (I actually had problems with the thermostat not opening all the way, and it turned out to be insufficient grounding) The steering linkage had to be adjusted, theres a nut on the bottom where it bolts onto the unibody, the hole in the linkage mount is slotted to allow for adjustment, I just had to loosen it, and retighten. You may also want to grind down the trim around the shifter with a rotary tool, since the angles will be changed slightly. I have to disagree with torxx on the tires. as long as you have relatively stock backspacing (the AA wheels actually have more backspacing, so it's a bit more likely to rub with very wide tires). I have 215/75/R15's (measure to about 27", calculated to about 28") with that same lift, and only had to do a little bashing, and trim the plastic inner fender on one side. The '29.5' inch swampers are actually less than 29" in diameter, especially on narrow wheels. I have tires that measure about 29" on my 3" BYB lifted wagon, and it's had some serious trimming. McBrat had 30s on a 3" BYB lifted brat, with serious cutting/bashing. So yes, 30s, maybe even 31s, are doable. I'd say 27s or 28s are your best bet. 215/75r15 seems to be a common tire size for guys with 4" lifts. When you're installing the lift, just take your time, keep in mind, it's very hard, if not virtually impossible, to make a block with multiple holes in it that lines up with every car. So the engine crossmemeber, aswell as the radius rod blocks, are going to be a pain. Also, when you've got the front end apart, things aren't attached, they're just hanging in space, balanced on your jack/jackstand. so take your time. I found that a pair of ratcheting tie-downs where incredibly useful in lining things up. when I wanted something pulled just an inch or so in one direction, I could. and get Dual Range

same as doing it on any other subaru....do a search also, you're going to need to do at least an 8" lift, to fit the tcase and front diff. probably more like 10" copied from the FAQ Here is a rough list of steel you will need/use to do this project... 14pcs. of 1/4" x 2" x (8" or 10") x 2 inches long aprox 20 feet of 1 1/2" x 1/8" wall square tube for tieing blocks together...... 10 feet of 3 x 2 x 1/8 wall Rec. tube for tieing front blocks to rear blocks...This is also what the T-case will mount off of..... Depending on how you are going to build front strut tops, you will need 10 feet of 1/4" x 3" flat bar 3 feet of 1/4" x 8" flat bar 2 pcs 1/4" x 8"x 6" flat bar You will also need Tubing to sleave shift and 4WD linkage, 2 pcs of 1/4 x 3 x 3 angle iron for motor Mounts, You will be building custom tranny mounts, so there is some steel in there You will be stuffing a T-case Most likely, there will be steel involved there as well to mount it into the sub frame structure you build to connect front blocks with rear blocks..... I did Jarods For $1500.00 Installed....this didn't include T-case , or 5 speed tranny...... All steel above is a Rough guess-timate but it will get you Started, let you see cost involved..... Also you have to remember fuel lines and Brake lines have to be lengthened..... you will also need front and rear diffs (maybe you'll reuse yours? but you might as well get 4.44s), front and rear driveshafts, tcase, and time. you'll also need to modify your tranny so the center diff is locked. The DutyC is not strong enough to turn a tcase and big tires, do a search for andyjo's thread about it here in the offroad forum. Mudrat responded with some good information regarding this.

that is true, but that is actually a slanted console. I think it's a modified stock one. but I'm not sure.

another one of us:

as promised, a daytime pic of the blue wagon's dash with CB and GPS: and the only pic where you can see the XT6 seats: and after the theives got me (how it still looks, btw):

why not use a full-time 4WD tranny?

any chance it would work with the existing sendors?

me??? throw something away?!?! not likely....my mother hates me for it, but it's saved me multiple times!

are you getting spark? code 14 is a crank angle sensor....that's what tells the coil to fire.

looks like fun!! I can't remember the last time I've seen an EA81 wagon that big! I love it also, in the pics anyway, the camber doesn't look any worse than either of my wagons (one of them's BYB lifted.....btw)

like those wheels?

caboobaroo....I can't see your pic.... here's my interior before it all got ripped off I'll put the daylight shot up when I get home... here's the same deck and console in my '85, complete with high quality glove box latch and the old deck in that car, before the dash kit and new dash (aftermarket, non-functional oil/volt/temp gauges, previous owners work...) I'll add a pic of my XT6 seats later