Numbchux

Sounds like textbook warped rotor.....where these 'new' rotors really new? or just different? could also be bad CV, but that wouldn't cause almost any pedal pulsing.

agreed, this is probably the best thing that you can do for a subaru. HUGE upgrade.

it's for the lo range indicator.

oh yea, definately get yourself an extended diff breather!

yep, my old '85 wagon came from iowa. Then I brought it up here.... it only lasted about a year before it fell apart, quite literally.

I've never had this problem, and there are some really tight trails, I've gotten around corners (I can think of a couple in particular) without stopping that 3 wranglers had to make multi-point turns on.... if you've got a your front locked, it'll be hard to turn with or without 4WD And, having driven a rear-locked Jeep offroad a bunch, it doesn't really effect turning radius much. We actually tested the turning radius with and without it locked (my buddy has a rear air locker ), and the difference was only about a foot.... and yes roundeye, I agree, that's why I have pavement sucks stickers on either side of my blue wagon (with the .com cut off!)

I've had it happen on all 4 rear axles I've taken off. 2 I got off with a Mapp Torch and a big hammer. one is still on the car, but not broken, yet (yikes) and the last from a parts car that I wanted the diff for my LSD swap. I ended up dissasembling the axle so just the cup was on the diff, removing it from the rest of the car, torching it, soaking it, and pounding on it.....nothing. finally, one day after torching and pounding, the cap in the bottom came out. through which I could access the external 10mm torx bolt that holds the stub in the diff. I still have that stub, and it still has a DOJ cup on it. my buddy pulled one off the hub side with an acetalyne (sp?) torch once. got it red hot, then hit it with an air chisel.

OOOOOHHH..... Yea, i've very much thought of it before, especially with the hills here in Duluth. lo range 2WD would be a huge clutch saver! The Road that I have to go up to get to my alley is so steep, that in Hi range, I cannot use second gear, no matter how high I let the rpm's go in first, it will not maintain speed in second. I was origionally thinking I'd pull a front axle for summer use, but I think this summer I'll have a buddy (I know....I still don't know how to weld....I'm sorry) fab something up. I don't, however, see how this would be helpful when offroading....

And if you don't realize what it is, you'll probably soil yourself. It's REALLY scary!!! Also, if it's effected by turning, it's not the inner joint, it's angle remains the same except for when the suspension compresses. So it's sound will not change when the wheel is turned. Also, if it's an outer one, it'll probably pull, or you'll feel the vibration in the steering wheel.

<3 <3 <3 only thing that could make it better.....is more lights!!!! Don't mount them ON the roof, but more like behind it, on the/a roll bar (I can't tell if you have one already or not). Then it'll be far enough that it won't light up your hood or windsheild. And if it gets bad on the t-tops, a strip of tape across the bottom will virtually completely eliminate that.

please explain. I have no clue what you mean...

OK, that makes sense. I don't think the tranny is that much of a weak link.....

we've discussed this before: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53904 I beleive the general consensus is, it's been done, theoretically mudrat can make a lift, but as a result of recent events, he can't offer anything there, and they're difficult to make a custom lift for. I say you should do it!!!

D/R stands for dual range.....hi range and lo range if you're gonna wheel a subie, wheel a DR subie!!

why? just use the stock box in 4WD, then you have 2 lo ranges..... I'm thinking a transverse FWD car, with 2 of the long-side CV axles....

:banana: good work man

sweet, that's what we wanted to hear!!

well, my dad's driving my donor car I mentioned to him when he was going to the junkyard yesterday that I wanted some cruise parts, so he found an early legacy, and started pulling stuff. and then we looked at the chiltons wiring diagram. I think this'll be EASY!!

A little experiment for my dad and I. found a legacy in the junkard with cruise, bunch of switches, the lever on the steering wheel, and a couple vacuum things in the engine bay. we looked in the car, and there appears to be all the plugs in the wiring harness already there.... we looked in the chiltons wiring diagram, and it looks like we've got everything, except the speed sensor. where is it, and would a non-cruise '92 legacy have it? oh yea, '92 legacy, EJ22, 4EAT, FWD

:lol::grin::lol::lol: great pics!!

or an FMIC, if you swing that way

I can't offer all the answers you're looking for, but I can offer this: I doubt you'll notice much difference mileage-wise between the 3.9 final drive and 3.7...the 3.7 will be turning fewer rpm's, but fewer rpms means more load....this question has been discussed, and the agreement was, that with an EA82 motor, the differences are going to be slim, with stock tires anyway (whole different world once us lifted guys get into almost 30" tires) part-time D/R boxes are all 3.9. RX's had full-time D/R with 3.7, but the lo range reduction is quite a bit less than the part time trannies are very complicated, lots of delicate adjustments to insure that all the gears mesh just right. personally, I won't open up the tranny. IMO, too much risk of majorly screwing something up!

oh yea, definately, in fact, if they are that hard to get off, maybe take a wire brush to them a little and clean 'em up. then put some anti-seize on 'em. and you'll be golden!

that's just not true up here. I've seen many times where jeeps have had all the weight on the front or rear sitting on the diff, and 3 wheels spinning. there's one trail where theres a big log going diagonally across the trail, and the trail is to narrow to turn at it straight. I've pulled a jeep off that everytime I've gone through it, and then stepped right over it with my LSD without trouble.

if the spring pins are out....they're probably 'organically welded' (as my dad would say). Rust, and just plain time will make them alot harder to get off. Heat up the narrow part of the inner cups with a Mapp or propane torch (or acetelyne if you have one), and an air chisel if you have one. otherwise just a big hammer, and beat them off.